Tuesday, 29 July 2014

Great Eastern Rail Line to Ilford. Roman Road Bow

Great Eastern Line to Ilford
The Great Eastern line from Bethnal Green Station runs north eastwards

Post to the south Mile End
Post to the east Old Ford

Anglo Road
112 The Lord Cardigan Pub. Dates from 1860s.


Ordell Road
22 Ordell Arms. This pub dated from at least the 1870s but closed in 2001 and converted to housing.
Tredegar Works. This site in the 19th was used by Perry & Co. undertakers of large scale construction projects who also had a saw mill here.  In the 1960s it was a transport depot for Kearley and Tonge, chain of small supermarkets who had a depot on the site responsible for the maintenance of 137 vehicles and 13 trailers and servicing for the 117 vehicles and 40 trailers in their fleet. It was later used by Stanton Rubber and Plastic who left in 2003 since when it has been used for housing.

Roman Road
Old Ford's principal shopping street, so-named since the 1860s when Roman remains were first discovered at its end close to the site of the 'old ford' across the River Lea.
Market – This began in 1869s,
Washing strong across lines in the street. This art work was part of an improved lighting scheme in 2006.
490 John Bull Pub. This pub dated from at least 1850 and was a Taylor Walker house. It closed in 1996 and is now a shop.
Bow Baths, now demolished. Stood in what is now Roman Road Market. There were slipper baths, a swimming pool and public laundry, as well as a hall for community meetings. The suffragettes held many demonstrations there. It was on the site of a previous timer yard and saw pits.
516-517 Muslim Community Centre, Established 2000.
527 The Trader. This pub was called the Needle Gun and dated from 1872 in an older building. It was a Taylor Walker house and renamed in the 1990s. It closed in 2009.
568a pawnbrokers shop in what appears to be a rebuild using the front of the Bow North Congregational Chapel
580-586 Match Maker Pub. Now closed. It was a Wetherspoons pub and is now a discount shop. Before Wetherspoons took it on it was an indoor market and before that a Caters supermarket.  On the side wall in Cardigan Street there is what appears to be an art work on a concrete panel above a door.
599 The Ranelagh Arms. This pub was here before 1860.  It was a Courage house and closed in 2000.  It is now a shop.
612 Rose of Denmark. This pub closed in 2006 and is now a shop. It was there before 1870 and was a Watney’s house, sold to Belhaven in 1990. 
Ideas Store – this was Passmore Edwards Public Library built 1901. of Bow, but is now known as the Ideas Store. There are cherubs over the main entrance and the original name plaque remains is on the corner of the building. It has been refurbished inside by Bissett Adams in 2002


Rosebank Gardens
May Lion Liquid Soap works, post Second World War


Selwyn Road
Selwyn Green. Small green space reclaimed as part of regeneration of local housing.


Saxon Road
Saxon Lea Court . This was St Stephen’s National Schools built by James Tolley in 1859 with an extension from 1893-4 by G.E. Holman. It is now flats. The foundation stone of the extension was laid in 1893 by the Duchess of Teck. 

St Stephen's Road
The area was thoroughly cleared of its c 19 housing and industry from the 1960s, principally by the LCC and GLC, frustrated by the slow progress of Poplar Borough's own rehousing programme.
55Ritz Cinema.  This was near the corner with Roman Road. It opened as the in Old Ford Picture Palace in 1910. In 1937, it was re-named Ritz Cinema Cinemascope was installed in the mid-1950’s and it was enlarged. It closed in 1961 and converted into a bingo club, but the building was burnt down a month later.  The site is now housing.
74 The Albert. Pub.
St Paul’s Church. This was built in 1878 by Newman & Billing. The Foundation stone was laid by J.D. Allcroft, Chairman of the Building Committee. It was disused for ten years until funds became available in 2003 for a conversion to mixed use. This was through ‘A New Heart for Bow’ project and undertaken Matthew Lloyd Architects and £3.3 million was fund raised. The result is a refurbished building with four floors of facilities for the whole community.
103 Brine’s wood factory. This was the home of the Lansbury family, until 1920. The timber yard belonged to Bessie Lansbury's father. The yard was renamed the Russian Veneer factory around 1921, but the business later failed.


Stafford Road
Third Base. Tower Hamlets Pupil Referral Unit


Tredegar Road
64 Tregedars. Cash and Carry warehouse in the silk mill and warehouse buildings
Silk mill. A silk mill was built here in 1873 for Stephen Walters & Sons described as a manufacturer of ‘umbrella, tie, velvet and garment silks’, with London offices in Wilson Street. They later moved outside London to various sites including Sudbury
Tilley, Carr & Co. warehouse and office block
Drill Hall. In 1908, the 17th (County of London) Battalion, The London Regiment (Poplar & Stepney Rifles), was formed by the amalgamation of two local Volunteer Corp one of which was the 2nd Tower Hamlets Volunteer Rifle Corps. Their Drill Hall was here and they recruited throughout Tower Hamlets. They fought in the Great Bar and fought their first battle in the coalfields at Loos and went on to much more. In the 1920s, with the re-establishment of the Territorial Army they were reduced to one battalion. In 1937 they war renamed as the Tower Hamlets Rifles, The Rifle Brigade (Prince Consorts Own).  During the Second World War, they fought in the Middle East, French North Africa and Italy. In 1947 the Tower Hamlets Rifles ceased to exist as a separate unit, when it became the 625 LAA Regiment RA (Rifle Brigade). Between the wards the Drill Hall was used for major boxing matches and was bombed in the Second World War. It was replaced by the Royal Mail sorting office.
Bow Royal Mail sorting office
St Stephens Church. This was constructed in 1858 and destroyed by bombing during the Second World War. the parish was united with the parish of Saint Paul, in 1961.

Wrights Road
Wrights Road Community Centre.


Sources
Bow Trail,
CAMRA. City and east London beer guide,
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
East London History Society Newsletter
Free Art in East London. Web site
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site/
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Pubs. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London
Pevsner and Cherry, East London
Poplar and Stepney Rifles. Web site
St.Paul’s. Web site
TourEast Leaflet
Victoria County History,

Sunday, 27 July 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford - Mile End

Great Eastern Railway Line to Ilford
The Great Eastern Railway Line from Bethnal Green Station runs north eastwards

Post to the west Mile End
Post to the north Roman Road Bow

Benworth Street
Flats with a plaque for Poplar Borough Council 1932.

Bow Road
2a St.Clement’s Hospital. This was opened in 1849 by the Board of Guardians as the City of London Union Workhouse and became the Infirmary in 1874.  The design was by Richard Tress and included central heating, a dining- hall, Siberian marble pillars, and a chapel with stained glass windows and an organ. In 1911 it was renamed the Bow Infirmary for the long-term sick  and in 1936 renamed St Clement's Hospital. It was badly damaged by Second World War bombing and some buildings including the chapel were destroyed. It reopened in 1948 and a psychiatric wing was added in 1949. The earliest buildings are these facing Bow Road standing behind a wall. There is a tower over a two-storey block housing offices and a Board Room. On either side were the receiving wards. The boundary wall was added 1896 by Francis Hammond, Architect to the City of London Guardians. It became part of the London Hospital in 1968 and went through various organsational changes until closure in 2005. Following its closure the site was transferred eventually to the Greater London Authority. In June 2012 it was announced that St Clements would become the United Kingdom's first urban Community Land Trust, working in partnership with Linden Homes and Peabody Housing.
Nurses Home of 1937 by London Country Council Architects Department in a Moderne style. Demolished
Workhouse Infirmary this is in a corner of the site in yellow brick with octagonal sanitation towers added 
8 Kings Head Pub. Demolished in the 1970s.
3-23 Coborn Terrace survivors of the earlier suburb set back behind gardens. The first three terraces were built in 1822 on the Morgan and Coborn estates by the Ratcliffe builder, William Marshall. 
Mile End Nursery. This was on the site of 26 and was owned by James Gordon in the 18th. The nursery specialized in rare trees raised from cuttings and seeds brought from many parts of the world.  The first ginko in Britain was raised here in the 1750s.  Gordon also raised important varieties of camellias here. Loudon described many important and unusual trees flourishing here in the 1850s when the nursery was owned by R. Thompson
24 East London Rope Works Ltd. This was to the back of the site and appears to have been present from the 1890s until the Second World War. The firm may have thereafter moved to Hoddesden.
24 David Napthall, cigar manufacturer and insurance agent. He was on the site in the 1920s
24- 26 site of the Convent of the Sisters of Marie Auxiliatrice, who ran St Mary's Home for Working Girls from 1913 to 1923. The convent was destroyed in the Second World War Blitz.
26 Wellington House. Since the Second World War a variety of organisations seem to have been based here and a garage structure has been built in front of what appears to be an older house.   One in particular was Petrolene Oils who in the 1950s were refining and selling Power Petroleum
28 site of the Doric College where deaconesses were trained for missionary nursing as part of the Regions Beyond Missions, supported by the Shaftesbury Society and Dr Grattan Guinness.
25-33 Central Foundation School for Girls.  The schools origins derive from charity schools set up in the 17th and 18th in the City. the Central Foundation Schools of London dated from 1891 and incorporated existing City schools and a new school was based in Spital Square, were, apart from during the Second World War, they remained eventually becoming a Voluntary Aided Grammar School under the 1944 Education Act. In 1975 the Girls’ Grammar School moved from Spital Square to Bow to take over the Coborn Girls’ Grammar School and the Coopers’ Boys Grammar School buildings. The building has a brick and Portland stone façade and a stair tower. There is lettering about the school and a number of plaques. Inside is a lit galleried hall with an open roof and classrooms wrapping round. A Gymnasium was added by George Elkington & Son. And a Laboratory in 1957.
The Coopers' Company's School. In 1536 Nicholas Gibson, Prime Warden of the Grocers' Company 1536-7 and Sheriff of London 1538-9, founded a boys school in Ratcliff Highway and after his death this devolved to the Coopers Company. The school was rebuilt here in the late 18th and the East India Company became involved. In the 1878 the Coopers' Company Girls' School was opened in Mile End Road. Following queries from the Charity Commission the boys moved from Ratcliffe Highway to the Coborn buildings in Tredegar Square, and the two charities merged. In 1975 the school moved to Upminster.
32 Dr.Barnardo lived here 1875-79.  It later became the Servants Free Registry Office and Training Home for Girls, opened in 1884 by Syrie Barnardo, Dr. Barnardo’s wife. This was for girls over 14 in domestic service. It was partly financed from a gift by George Sturge and so was called Sturge House. By 1900, the home and registry had moved to Burdett Road. Mrs Barnardo personally supervised every aspect of their training and kept all the accounts.
35 Connections.  London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Youth employment centre.  In the 1970s this was Croda Agricultural Offices – one of the many sub-companies of Croda, Yorkshire based multi national chemical company.
41-7 Council Offices. This block was built 1938-9 for Spratt's dog biscuit manufacturers probably by Andrews & Gale. Spratts were here between 1939 and 1964 and there is a plaque on the building recording this with their doggie made out of letters logo.  It became the Tower Hamlets Planning office.
49 Phoenix School. Modern additions to the school in Harley Grove.
51 Harley College. Much of the college site is to the rear and in Harley Grove.In 1873 Henry and Fanny Harley started the East London Missionary Training Institute. The school trained 1330 missionaries for 30 societies of 30 denominations. In 1883, it moved to Derbyshire.
Memorial to George Lansbury. This is at the corner with Harley Grove.. The stone describes him as "A great servant of the people." He was elected to parliament in 1911, but resigned his seat on the "Votes For Women" issue and failed to be elected. He was twice Mayor of Poplar. In 1921the council refused to levy high rates on the poor and council members marched to court in a procession, led by the mace-bearer, and accompanied by a band and a banner. 30 councillors were sent to prison for contempt of court. Lansbury was later elected MP and was a Privy Counsellor. He was leader of the Labour Party 1931-35.
Cherrywood Close
Site of J T Davies Ltd rope works entered from Coburn Road.

Coburn Road
Was known as Cut Throat Lane before 1800 and marked the division between the Coborn and Morgan estates: and later the parish and borough boundaries.
63 Vicarage – this is actually for the Bishop of Stepney.
8 The Coborn Arms. Spacious, mid-terrace pub in a residential area.  The open-plan single room is split up by a large bar. Taken over by Youngs in 1984
30 plaque saying that this was Dr. Barnardo's first lodging in London. According to Tom Ridge, the actual house No 33. 30 was once headquarters of the China Inland Mission.
Old Ford Station This was opened in 1865. Built by the Great Eastern Railway on the East side of Coburn Road, half way up.  Opened as ‘Old Ford’ and in 1879 renamed ‘Coburn Road (Old Ford)’ and in 1883 resited along with the widening of the railway.
Coborn Road (Old Ford) Station. This was opened in 1883 as a resiting of the previous Coburn Road (Old Ford) station. The Entrance was on the east side of Grove Road and on the west side of Coburn Road.  It only served the local lines and there were not platforms on the through lines. It closed 1916-1919 and finally closed in 1946 – it was supposed to have been closed earlier but the delay to the Shenfield Electrification also delayed its closure.  In the 1990s a bricked up doorway in Coburn Road and parts of the down platforms were still in place.
Coborn Road Signal Box. This was on a gantry above the tracks and dated from 1884

Coburn Street
The Kirtland Centre. This is the old Postal Sorting Office built in 1912 by the Office of Works.  It currently houses a ‘free school’ owned by the Constable Education Trust.  The Kirkland Centre was part of Tower Hamlets Mencap Society,
Malmesbury Primary Schools. School Board for London school opened as Malmesbury Road School in 1912. Renamed Malmesbury School in 1951

Eric Street
Telephone Exchange by the Office of Works
Electrodrome Cinema. This opened in the 1910’s as Forrest’s Electrodrome and was taken over by Sydney Bernstein in 1920. It closed in 1940

Harley Grove
Harley Grove was the site of Harley House and Harley College where the Regions Beyond Missionary Union trained its missionaries for Africa and the Far East. Harley College also taught foreign languages. Deaconesses were trained as nurses for both local and missionary
Central Foundation Girls School. Harley Grove site. This part of the site was where Coborn School had been.  The main building is now new build from 1997 by Tower Hamlets Building Services in pale brick. It has a linear plan with a curved two-storey centre with a circular atrium inside. The former Coborn Girls School was the late 19th successor to a charity school founded at Bow. Coburn School was designed and built by George Elkinton the surveyor to Bermondsey vestry. The Central Foundation School moved here in 1975 from Spital Square, and took over the site when the Spitalfields when the Coopers' & Coborn Schools moved to Upminster. Lively and striking Neo-Jacobean.  Prisca Coborn (or Coburne) nee Forster, who inherited a fortune from her husband, Thomas Coborn, a wealthy brewer of Bow.
49 Phoenix School. Built 1951-2 by Farquharson & McMorran as a London County Council open-air school, and now used for special needs children. Copper-roofed brick buildings set in peaceful, green surroundings and linked by covered walkways. There are reliefs of the Four Seasons by Steven Sykes.  To the rear is an assembly hall opening into a garden, with an Italian stone well-head. Additions of 1996 by Lister, Grillet and Hording,
Bow Open Air School was previously on the site of Phoenix School and had been built in the grounds of Harley House for delicate children. The building was wood and had no heating. It was destroyed by Second World War bombing.
Wara Sikh Sangat. This is a Sikh temple in a former chapel of 1854-5. In 1927 it became Mile End and Bow Great Synagogue and a Sikh temple in 1979. Inside The Gallery, is on slim iron columns, and was rebuilt by the synagogue as a ladies' gallery in 1927, with named and numbered seats. A place for the Ark remains inside.
Church Hall – this was enlarged in 1876 as a Sunday school and later became a Talmud Torah.



Merchant Street
Takes its name from the Merchant Seamen's Orphanage Asylum, which was on this site. The Asylum dated from a public meeting in 1827 and the establishment of two houses for the orphaned children of merchant seamen. In 1834 financial problems led to it being re-launched as a Church of England foundation and a house in Bow was acquired and a fund raising campaign began. By 1852 they were housing 116 children although many more were applying to enter. The lease of the house expired in 1862 and the landlord would neither renew it nor sell the house to the Foundation. After more fund raising a new house was built at Snaresbrook.
Bow Road Methodist Church. This is a modern church building sits on the foundations of an earlier church destroyed by bombing.  It dates from 1951 by Alick Gavin of Paul Mauger & Partners and was the first bombed Methodist church to be rebuilt after the Second World War.
Bow Road Wesleyan Methodist Church was founded by the Reverend Alexander McAulay, who began preaching from his home in 1861. The church was built to look like a Roman temple by W. W. Pocock, was opened in 1865. It suffered bomb damage in 1940, and was subsequently rebuilt,
Wesley Hall and Macaulay Memorial Schools. Built in 1891 by B.J. Capell of Whitechapel. This is now a doctors' surgery with an entrance at the side,
Chapel keeper's house
 
Mural called 'Community Fragments. This one of only a few murals which have survived from the late 1970s and are quite faded. It was begun in 1978 when Richard Smith of the Bow Mission approached Ray Walker to paint a mural to ‘brighten up a drab wall which faces a new estate’. The resulting mural shows people working, playing, feeding, visiting the doctor and attending school. It has been repaired once by artist David Bratby in the 1980s but hasn’t been touched otherwise.

Mile End Road
This is the A11 – the ancient route from London into Essex
560 Electric Theatre. This was opened in 1910 designed by Saville & Martin and was operated by United Electric Theatres Ltd. In 1918, it was re-named La Boheme Cinema, and there was a banqueting suite and cafe in an adjoining building - by 1937, this was a dance hall. The cinema was taken over by Capitol & Provincial News Theatres Ltd. And it was re-named Vogue Cinema in 1940. It was badly damaged by bombing in 1942 and its ruins were removed in a road widening scheme. The dance hall remained to the mid-1990’s was a gay disco named Benjys and is still a nightclub.
562 Suede -night club and shisha bar.
568 betting shop in old Barclays Bank branch
580 Mile End Station. Opened in 1902 it now lies between Bethnal Green and Stratford on the Central Line and between Bow Road and Stepney Green on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. It opened as part of the ‘Whitechapel and Bow’ railway on a line serving as a link between the Metropolitan District Line services, which had previously terminated at Whitechapel,  and overground rail services that operated from Bromley By Bow. It was then to be called ‘Burdett Road’ but changed to Mile End because it was thought to be confusing. These original tracks are now used by the District and Hammersmith and City Line services from the station  In 1930 it was rebuilt as art of the Central Line works and in 1946 the Central Line Station opened having started before the Second World War. The surface station was rebuilt for the Central Line in the flat Portland stone style based on Holden's designs of the early 1930s. The Central Line comes to the surface here to give an easy interchange with the District.  
588 Zains Restaurant. This was previously a pub which appears to have been originally called the Cornucopia. A pub here dates from at least the 1880s and in the 1940s was a Taylor Walker of Limehouse house. The current building appears to be part of the development of the Eric Estate in the late 1960s. It was renamed several more times.  By 1974 it had been rebuilt as part of the development of the adjoining Eric Estate.  By 1983 it was called the Horn of Plenty, later the Flautist & Firkin as one of the Firkin chain.  For a while it was A Matter of Time, in 2007 it was Virtue and in 2008 Milestone.  In 2010 it closed to become a restaurant.
403 Support Company 4th Battalion, The Royal Green Jackets, TA Centre. The TA in Tower Hamlets has its origins in the Trained Bands of 1643. In 1794 the Trained Bands were reorganised and each hamlet had its own company. In 1874 the various Tower Hamlets Volunteers amalgamated to form the Tower Hamlets Volunteer Brigade, and finally became the Territorial Army in 1908
403-405 site of Deaconess House in 1879, opened by Dr and Mrs Barnardo. The Deaconesses were Evangelical ladies who resided at Barnardo's Deaconess House which was here from 1879 to 1898.
405 Gateway `Housing Association.
Gateway Homes began as Bethnal Green Housing Association in 1926 and works predominately in Tower Hamlets. Their main offices here have an entrance in Rhondda Grove.
Morgan Street
Central Foundation Girls School (Upper School). This was built as the Coopers' Company Boys School in 1909 by Figgis & Munby.  It was built on the site of the Stepney Grammar School of c. 1878 which was inherited by the Coopers Company when they amalgamated in 1891 with the Coborn Girls School as the Stepney & Bow Foundation. The facade to College Terrace has a carved frieze by E. Whimey Smith. The stair towers have stained glass with the Coopers' Company arms
43 Morgan Arms rebuilt by Hammock & Lambert in 1891 with red -terracotta detail. It has considerable pretensions

Tredegar Square
The square was built as part a development from the late 18th on the land of Sir Charles Morgan of Tredegar. It was begun in 1822 when Morgan leased 45 acres to a local bricklayer Daniel Austin for a housing development. Tredegar Square was laid in 1828 out Austin was bankrupt in 1829 and the rest of the square was sub.
Gardens. In 1888 the central garden was only a simple system of paths round a rectangle but it was later laid out with a large central circle. A grant of £830 came from King George's Fields Foundation and the gateposts on the north side have plaques which reflect this grant. There are some trees including lime, locust, sycamore and London planes.
14 home of Alexander McAulay who set up the Bow Mission and came to live here
24 this was St Philip's House, the first Catholic settlement in the East End which later moved to Essex House.
25-26 In the 1830s this was the home of William Ephraim   Snow, surgeon to the Spanish and Portuguese Jews Hospital


Sources
Ackroyd. Dickens’ London
Bow Heritage Trail. Bow Planning.
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London,
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford.
Day. London’s Underground
East London’s Free Art. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Mural Preservation Society. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Merchant Seamen’s Educational Foundation. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London,
National Archives. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Smythe. Citywildspace,
St.Clement’s  Hospital. Wikipedia. Web site
Thomas, Ben’s Limehouse.

Tuesday, 22 July 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Mile End

Great Eastern Railway line to Ilford
The Great Eastern railway line running from Bethnal Green Station goes north eastwards

Post to the west Globe Town
Post to the east Mile End

Aberavon Road
This was originally Frederick Place and was developed from 1824 as a terrace
Eaton Terrace by UBZWG for Kentish Homes built in 1983-5. The doorways are flanked by huge curving pedestals with balls, put there to disguise the rubbish bins
Anthill Road
129 built in 1869 as the Duke of York pub, for the Smith, Garrett, & Co. brewery of Bromley-by-Bow. The pub closed in 2002 but tiled signage has been kept in conversion to housing - the best monument to that brewery that can still be seen today. 

Cherrywood Close
Housing built on the site J T Davies Ltd rope works. This was a subsidiary of the wire rope manufacturers, John Stephens of Bristol and Warrington, and made fibre ropes, including from coir for Fishing Vessels, Running Gear, and Trawl Warps. They were taken over by Bridon in 1925

Clinton Road
This once residential road is now inside the park.
Grove Road
The continuation of Burdett Road northwards from Mile End Road, leads to Victoria Park
2 Greedy Cow. This was the Prince of Wales but was set up as the Prince of Prussia before 1881.  It was a tied house to the London & Burton Brewery of Stepney and on the pub sign was their insignia of ‘LBB’ as part of the iron work.  The name was changed at the outbreak of the Great War by which time it was a Watney’s house. It closed in 2005.
Rail Bridge. This carries the Great Eastern line and the road is lowered underneath it
Plaque on the railway bridge. Mile End was hit by the first V1 flying bomb in 1944, which fell next to the railway bridge. Eight civilians were killed, 30 injured and 200 made homeless. The site was derelict until it was incorporated into the new Mile End Park.
Tram depot. This horse tram depot is shown on maps from the 1890s until after Great War and ran along the south west side of the railway line. It is understood that in the 1920s it was associated with E.A.Lloyds Garage and privately run bus routes.
30 The Railway Tavern. This was a Charrington’s house which was here before 1861. It closed in 2000 and is now housing. What remains are three tiled 'House of Toby' plaques – saying: ‘CHARRINGTONS 1757’ and a 'Toby' image with 'TOBY ALE' and 'THE HOUSE OF TOBY'
51 Mile End Hotel
110 The Victoria. The pub dates from at least the 1870s. It has a clock hanging from a bracket outside
Mile End Bus station

Haverfield Road
This is now a roadway leading into the park.
The Palm Tree. This pub is now within the park but stood originally in Palm Street – which ran in the square to the north. There is a tiled panel above the corner door which says 'TRUMANS' plus a large eagle with 'ESTd 1666'; and the pub name
Mile End Climbing Wall. This opened in the late 1980s and used an old pipe engineering works. Plus the Rock On climbing shop.

Lichfield Road
The Lord Tredegar.  Pub, with his portrait on the inn sign. Lord Tredegar, was once Sir Charles Morgan who owned land here.

Mile End Park
Mile End Park is a new park. However it was part of Patrick Abercrombie's 'Greater London Plan' in 1944. There had been some land clearance by the Greater London Council and this continued after it became the responsibility of London Borough of Tower Hamlets. By the end of the 1980s the section from Mile End Road to Victoria Park was landscaped (this square covered only as far the Palm Tree Pub).  Following calls by for projects to mark the millennium, Tower Hamlets Environment Trust, under John Aldenton, as part of a partnership made a successful application for Millennium funding. Creation of the park began in 1998 and it opened in phases from 2000. The park stretches alongside the Regents Canal from Limehouse to Victoria Park. Although only a few yards across in some places the layout has been created a series of distinct spaces
Ecology Pavilion. This is an earth sheltered building using a heat storage system developed in the Rocky Mountains Research Centre. It has an insulation umbrella made of polystyrene and polythene to create a dry thermal heat store to collect heat created by the occupants, lights, equipment and the sun.  
Lake. There is a high walk around the back of the lake, bounded by tall curved ribs of timber
Wind Turbine. This is a single 6.5 kw wind turbine which is on the island in the ecology lake and powers a sump that circulates water around the lake.
Mile End Arts Pavilion An earth sheltered building like the Ecology Pavilion.

Mile End Road
401 Essex House. This was an 18th mansion, the home of the Morrison family and said to have been built by a Lady Essex. 
Guild of Handcraft. In 1891 Charles Ashbee moved his Guild of Handicraft and the Essex House Press here. He hoped to further the aims of the Arts and Crafts movement by preserving and practising old skills of printing, bookbinding, furniture making and metalwork. It is also where he founded the Survey of London.   After eleven years, the guild moved to the country.
St Philips Settlement.  This was founded in, 1894, by Lady Margaret Howard helped by a group of women including her sister Lady Mary Howard. It moved to 401 Mile End Road in 1903 where there was accommodation for clubs and meetings. This was a Roman Catholic body – the ladies were the sisters of the Duke of Norfolk. It was thus a convent for the Sisters of Charity until 1929
Barclay's Bank leased the building from 1929 until it was taken over by the cinema chain.
Odeon Theatre was built for Oscar Deutsch’s Odeon Theatres chain. It was designed by the Andrew Mather firm, with Keith P. Roberts. It had the distinctive Odeon style tower and cream faïence tiles. It opened in 1938 with Max Miller. It closed in 1972. It was converted into a Sundown concert centre/dancehall which opened in 1972 with Slade. The venture was a failure and it closed in 1973. In1975 it opened as the Liberty screening Bollywood films and finally closed in 1978. It was demolished in 1984 and an office/residential block built on the site.
401 Onyx House. The building is by Piers Gough in 1986. There is s coved cornice free of the parapet which swoops in a deep inverted line through the brick facade to reveal glass curtain walling. This new building has gone through several names includng Kentish House, and Besso House.  The extensive garden to the rear is now the site of flats.

Morgan Street
New Testament Church of God. This was Holy Trinity Church built 1834-9 by Daniel and James Austin, local surveyors. It is on a large site, with its own burial ground. The New Testament church took it over in 1996 after period of redundancy and vandalism.  It was designed as a proprietary chapel, funded by a lawyer, E.A. Dickenson, who hoped to make his son the clergyman. The site was given by the landowner Sir C Morgan. By 1836 Dickenson's money had run out and the church was finished by the Metropolis Churches Fund in 1839 and given its own district in 1841. The church suffered bomb damage during the Blitz and was closed in 1984.
Churchyard with a variety of monuments. It was closed in 1853. A number of sea captains are buried there.
Church Hall of Holy Trinity Church built 1901. This is now the New Testament Church of God.

Railway
Coal depot - A viaduct built in 1852 lay alongside the main line to the south associated with the coal depot. This was to facilitate transshipment of coal from railway to canal for distribution.  The depot was not finished until the mid-1860s and there were five sidings used for servicing movements within it.  The viaduct was bombed in the Second World War – as indeed were other parts of the depot - and rebuilt after it. Parish boundary markers were displayed on the viaduct.  When use as a coal yard ceased it was taken over by Tarmac as a depot for the movement of aggregates.  Up until the 1950s a number of coal merchants were based on various parts of the depot site
Apple Tree Yard. Some of the arches were used as a business and light industrial complex.

Regents Canal
Coal depot. Sidings from the Mile End coal depot spread south during the early part of the 20th fanning out over the area to the north of Mile End Road. Most of this site is now covered by the of halls of residence for Queen Mary College, University of London
Spencer’s works.  Edward Spencer had a saw mills here with a wharf on the canal  based at 81 Longfellow Road (now demolished along with, Longfellow-road) before and during the Great War) 1918. Spencer also made Medical Soaps.
Avon Wharf, Longfellow Road.  This was the veneering factory of John Wright and Sons from the early 20th – they were there until at least the 1950s. They cut veneers to a wide range of specifications and were specialist in aircraft construction and interior decoration.
Railway bridge – this was an iron bridge on the Eastern Counties Railway built in 1839 when the line to Bishopsgate crossed the canal. 
Two boundary stones alongside the towpath almost under the railway bridge. They mark the border between the boroughs of Hackney and Tower Hamlets and date from before 1880. The taller stone has the remains of six lines of writing, but is too worn to be readable.
Mile End Lock. Lock with converted lock cottage. The lock, at this point on the canal, has a drop of eight feet when heading south to Limehouse Basin
Pump House at Mile End Lock, There was a system for back-pumping water up the canal to above Mile End Locks from the canal basin at Limehouse via a 3-foot diameter back-pumping pipe installed in 1898. Attached to the lock cottage here was a single-storey boiler house with a steam pump maintaining the water level in the pound above the locks.  The pipe runs under the towpath from Commercial Road Bridge to the Mile End pound. The pump house has now been demolished.
Lock keepers cottage.  Double fronted 19th building. This is at the east end of the College Campus and had been vacant for some time. The pump house has been demolished and the extension is a series of interlocking forms wrapping around the cottage. This is clad in aluminum rainscreen cladding, which leans out. The ‘North Wing’ projects out over the tow- path, providing the common room with a window overlooking the canal lock. Over the main entrance door is a notice saying Graduate School. The disabled access and cottage are connected via a bridge and staircase formed like a sculptural ‘Tendril’ in the double height foyer. The first floor of the cottage now a single space, with the ceiling opened up to follow the existing roof profile. This space accommodates a seminar room with three original sash windows overlooking the canal. The ground floor is a workroom with two workstations and toilet facilities.
Packing case factory. This was a branch of the packing case manufacturing business of John Wright.
Dust yard. This appears to be part of the Great Eastern coal depot. There was an arrangement for them to take Mile End street sweeping refuse. Possibly for sale on to brick makers.  A dust depot on the site in 1915 belonged to the Metropolitan Borough of Stepney.
Young’s Wharf. This was a chemical works north of the railway
Commercial Wharf. This wharf was used by a variety of manufacturers. In 1854 H.O.Gray was making Crew’s Disinfecting Fluid there – contained chloride of zinc and was said to prevent cholera. At the same time Mr. Gray was inventing methods of preserving potatoes. In the 1880s Gardner Brothers, lightermen and cowkeepers were there. In the 1960s it was used by a fencing manufacturer.

Westfield Way
This is an internal road in the Queen Mary College campus.


Sources
Ackroyd, Dickens’ London
Blacker, Lunn, Westgate. London Buses
Bow Heritage Trail. Bow Planning.
Brewery History Society. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London,
Day. London’s Underground
East London’s Free Art. Web site
Essex Lopresti. The Regents’ Canal
GLIAS Newsletter
Grace’s Guide. Web site
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London,
National Archives. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Smythe. Citywildspace,
Thomas, Ben’s Limehouse.

Sunday, 20 July 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Globe Town

Great Eastern Railway Line to Ilford
The railway to Ilford running from Bethnal Green Station goes north eastwards

Post to the west Bethnal Green
Post to the east Mile End

Bancroft Road
The road was built to access the Mile End Workhouse from Mile End Road.
238 The Carlton Arms Pub. This dates from at least the 1850s.
Devonshire Road Goods yard. This was near to Globe Road station at ground level built in 1880. It was accessed by a ramp from the main line above and it was worked by small GER locomotives.  An entrance with a sign faced onto Bancroft Road. The yard was on both sides of the line with coal drops on the south side. It closed in 1967
Jewish Burial Ground. The abandoned cemetery of long closed Maiden Lane synagogue in Covent Garden. The Maiden Lane Synagogue was the result of disputes in the 19th. This break away congregation bought its own cemetery at Globe Fields and the first burial was in 1811.  By 1884 it was in disrepair and by 1895 filled up.  Then Henry Harris donated land in Edmonton for a grave yard this to community and Bancroft Road. Maiden Lane's declining membership brought on a financial crisis, and by 1907 they were bankrupt and terms were agreed with the Westminster Synagogue for a takeover. Bancroft road cemetery was bombed during World War Two and little now remains. Following publicity about the state of this cemetery a group has been formed and work to tidy and restore it is taking place.
Mile End Workhouse. In 1857 Mile End Old Town became a separate Poor Law 'Hamlet'. A new workhouse, was built in 1858-9 adjacent to the Jews' burial ground. The first stone was laid in 1858 and the building was designed by William Dobson and constructed Messrs. Ayers of Dover. It had an entrance block facing onto Bancroft Road with board-room and offices; casual wards with a stone-breaking yard, accommodation wards, dining room, chapel, infirmary, an imbeciles' block and a school block with its own laundry, playgrounds, and sheds. In the 1920s it became Mile End Hospital.
275 Mile End Hospital. In 1858-9 a new workhouse and infirmary for 500 inmates was built to the north of Mile End Road.  The Mile End Old Town Infirmary for the workhouse opened in 1883 on the site of the old infirmary and imbecile wards.   A Nurses Training School was established in 1892.   During the Great War WW1 the Infirmary became a military hospital.  In 1930, it came under the London County Council and was renamed Mile End Hospital.  It joined the NHS in 1948.   In 1968 the London Hospital took over the management and it became the London Hospital (Mile End). It is now a community hospital caring mainly for elderly patients.  A Centre for Mental Health opened here in 2007.
Crown Works. Mineral Water factory. This was Stower’s Lime Juice Cordial works owned by Alexander Riddle & Co. Stowers had begun in Commercial Street as British Wine & Pickle makers and were taken over by Riddle in 1880. They moved, Bancroft Road in 1912 and stayed there until 1960
Crown Works. In the 19th this was the works of Henry Roberts and Co. manufacturers of brewery plant and equipment.

Longnor Road
Entrance to hospital car parks
Entrance to complex of University Halls of Residence.


Meath Crescent
New housing on the site of the goods yard.
Boundary mark stone which says “St. M. M. E. B. G. M. E. O. T. 1885 1885”. This appears to mark the boundary between St. Matthews Mile End, Bethnal Green and Mile End Old Town
Devonshire Road Goods yard.  The yard was on both sides of the line with an entrance in Bancroft Road on the south. The north side is said to be the original section and which handled perishable goods. In the 1870s an incline was built north of the line which served street level sidings and which connected to the south by lines under the viaduct. From 1922 it was called Mile End and Devonshire Street depot and from 1939 it was Mile End only.


Meath Gardens 
This was originally Victoria Park Cemetery.  This was notorious for the scandalous conditions when it was a neglected private cemetery. The site was bought for building purposes in 1840 by the MP of Tower Hamlets, Butler who gave the land but it was not paid for and meanwhile burials had taken place and a chapel had been built.  The cemetery was never consecrated and closed in 1876 contain some 300,000 bodies and was described as 'gruesome state' by Lt. Col J J Sexby of the London County Council Parks Department.   Butler’s son agreed with the Metropolitan Gardens Association that the land should be used for a park and but this could not happen for legal reasons until the London Council had been formed. After fund raising and donations work began under the Association’s landscape gardener, Fanny Wilkinson, using unemployed labour.  It took a year to complete. It was called Meath Gardens after the Earl of Meath, who was the Chairman of the Association and it was opened in 1894 by the Duke of York with gardens and children’s playgrounds’. Management was by the London County Council. A playground was added in 1990, and beyond the boundary are the Prospect Allotments. A tree was donated by Hillier Nurseries Ltd to the Aboriginal Cricket Association in 1988, and a plaque is inscribed ‘'In memory of King Cole, Aboriginal cricketer, who died on the 24th June 1868. Your Aboriginal dreamtime home. Wish you peace'.
A Gothic arch with plain initials 'VPC' and date 1845. This was the former entrance to the cemetery and may be by Thomas Ashpitel, who designed the now demolished mortuary and chapel.


Morpeth Street
Morpeth Secondary School has nearly 1,200 pupils who students come from a wide range of ethnic backgrounds. It specialises in the Arts and Music.  A Central, Secondary school, Morpeth Street, was opened in 1910 for the School Board for London.  The school was by T.J. Bailey, roughcast rendering and chequer-pattern tiles. It followed the pattern for central schools of a hall flanked by pavilion wings and single-storey rear classroom block. The entrances have Art Nouveau details and inside, are staircases with bow-fronted balustrades with heart-shaped motifs. There was cupola with a weathervane of swallows in flight. After the Second World War it provided general, technical, and commercial courses and an enlarged site included the ormer Portman Place School. They also took over the old John Scurr School in Wessex Street as an annexe. A new block with containing workshops, gymnasium, library and hall was added in 1974. An extension was added in 1997 by Norman & Dawbarn. And in 2001 a library by the same firm. A new Performing Arts building was opened in 2007 by the British film director and producer (and former Morpeth parent), Danny Boyle.
Portman Place School. This was opened by the School Board for London in 1878. And a new block added in 1896, with drawing room, laboratory, cookery and manual training centres, and a special school. This was designed by T.J. Bailey, with a tall, pyramidal roof to a stair tower. It closed in 1947/51 and the site was taken into Morpeth Secondary School.


Palmers Road
The canal area alongside which the road runs is currently being developed for housing
Palmers Wharf.  This was the name of the site from the 1890s when it was owned by the London Oil Storage Company They dated from 1885 and were an early company developing tank farms, in riverside and other locations.  The wharf it was heavily bombed in the Second World War.  Structures were later replaced by canal side wharves with cranes and an overhead canopy over the canal. The wharf is said to have largely dealt in timber. Latterly as Suttons Wharf it has been occupied by Suttons International specialising in exhibition display and other items.
Victoria Works Palmers Wharf. Making oil and candles 1869-1946. By the 1940s they were also making furniture.
Steelux Holdings Ltd. This company was making future on the site in the 1980s.  It has also been used by Stringer Limited, now based in Greenwich, who make office and retail furniture and display items.


Roman Road
Globe Town Market. Traditional market in a 1950s built shopping precinct.
170 Angel and Crown. This pub dates from at least the early 19th but was rebuilt in 1951.


Smart Street
Meath Gardens Childrens Centre


Walter Street
Chemical Works 

Sources
Aldous. London Villages 
Bethnal Green Free Art and History. Web site
British History Online. Bethnal Green 
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
East London History Society Review
GLIAS Newsletter
London Encyclopaedia
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site.
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Lucas, London
Mementos of Tower Hamlets. Web site
Morpeth School. Web site
Morpeth School. Wikipedia. Web site.
Workhouses. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford. Bethnal Green

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Ilford
The railway running from Bethnal Green Station goes north eastwards

Post to the south Bethnal Green
Post to the east Globe Town

Bancroft Road
This part of Bancroft Road was called Devonshire Street in the 19th
Devonshire Street Station.  Opened in 1839 by the Eastern Counties Railway.  It was a simple wooden station used as a temporary terminus for the Eastern Counties Railway while Bishopsgate was being built. The entrance was to the north of the viaduct reached by an alley way from the alley called Providence Place. It closed in 1840 when the line was extended to Shoreditch.

Bethnal Green – the Green and the Gardens
The Green.  This is the medieval Green or Poors' Lands which lies along Cambridge Heath Road. It was originally, part of the common land of Stepney.  When building increased in the area in the late 17th land was purchased by a group of people anxious to preserve open land in the area and set up as a trust in 1696. This included a charge for the support of the poor of Bethnal Green and money to lay the land out as a public garden.  Maintained by London County Council part was preserved as Bethnal Green Gardens and recreation ground by the LCC in 1895. The green is triangular and stretches from Old Ford Road, tapering to a point at the railway line.   In 1825 some of the land was purchased for St John’s Church which divided the Green into two. In 1868 more and was sold for the Bethnal Green Museum. In 1888 following attempts by the trustees to allow land to be sold for development the land was passed to the London County Council on condition it remained as a ‘recreation-ground’. It was remodelled as a public park under Lt. Col Sexby with an ornamental wrought-iron enclosing fence; walks and shrubberies; a sunk garden with a central fountain, a rockery; a gymnasium for children. The park opened in 1895.
Museum of Childhood. In 1851 William Gladstone, suggested a museum be built in Bethnal Green while leading locals bought the common land and lobbied for a museum. In 1851 the Great Exhibition was held in Hyde Park and a museum was conceived as a result. This was housed in a temporary iron structure in Brompton - nicknamed the Brompton Boilers. It was then decided to add similar Museums elsewhere in London but only Bethnal Green was e interested and in 1868, construction began under architect, J.W.Wild. The work was carried out by S Perry & Co., led by Col Henry Scott, of the Royal Engineers. The Prince of Wales opened the Museum in 1872. The final structure was much less grand than Wild’s original plans. Female inmates of Woking Gaol laid the fish scale pattern marble floor and F W Moody designed murals – agriculture on the south wall and art and industry on the north - with female students of the South Kensington Museum Mosaic Class. The exhibits were made up of Food and Animal Products Great Exhibition, bits of various the South Kensington collections plus 18th French art from the Wallace Collection. The Royal family began to pass stuff they had been given to the museum. In 1922 Arthur Sabin became curator and decided to make it more child-friendly. He began to put together child-related objects helped by Queen Mary and a donation of a collection of toys. In the Second World War the building became a British Canteen. In 1974 Roy Strong, director of the V&A, reopened it as the Museum of Childhood transferring relevant collections there.  In 2005 the Museum was closed for refurbishment and new extensions and facilities were added,
Bethnal Green Museum Gardens. The section of open ground round the museum was initially maintained by the Government but in 1887 it passed to the Metropolitan Board of Works, subsequently the LCC, then the GLC and now London Borough of Tower Hamlets. It is required under the Act for the purchase of the land that it is 'laid out and for ever maintained ... as an ornamental garden'. The original layout was designed by A. McImyre, the superintendent of Victoria Park. The gardens are separated from the museum by Museum Passage and until recent refurbishment works the gardens consisted of lawns, with rose beds, plane trees on the perimeter, with picnic tables on each side. The semi-circular area at the front has now been changed as ramped access to the building and there is increased planting.
The Eagle Slayer. The sculpture by John Bellshows a shepherd, who, upon discovering one of his sheep has been killed by an eagle, fires an arrow and kills the eagle. This may be the version cast in iron by the Coalbrookdale Company in 1851 and shown at the Great Exhibition at the centre of a fantastic cast-iron structure, referred to as a 'rustic summerhouse'; It was placed in the garden in 1927 and was much damaged. It has now been restored and taken inside the museum, although the plinth remains in the gardens
St. George’s Fountain.  The fountain which was the largest piece of majolica work ever made, stood at the centre of the International Exhibition in South Kensington in 1862. It was by by the sculptor J. Thomas for Minton made up of 369 parts and was 10 metres tall. It was displayed outside the Bethnal Green Museum until 1926 when St.George fell off and it had deteriorated beyond repair. The statue of Sr. George is now held at the Potteries Museum in Stoke-on-Trent and much of it is said to be crushed in the museum pathways.
Memorial fountain in Museum Gardens. This is dedicated to the memory of Alice Maud Denman and Peter Regelous, who lost their lives while attempting to save others in a fire at 423 Hackney Road on 20 April 1902.
St John’s Church.  This was originally a Chapel of ease to St. Matthew in 1828The church itself was built in 1826-8 by John Soane, as his third church for the Commissioners.  It is in brick with a tower made up of detached pillars and a circular cupola. An intermediate storey was omitted on cost grounds. There were later alterations by Teulon and it was badly damaged in the blitz so in 2004 there has been a larger renovation programme. The interior was remodelled in 1871 by William Mundy after a fire. Paintings of the Stations of the Cross, by Chris Gollon, were commissioned 2002.  There are bronze tablets members of the East London Regiment of Royal Engineers as from the Boer War till 1945; St John’s was the regimental church for the Regiment. From 1844 the Patron was Brasenose College Oxford and incumbents came from there. In the 19th however the church supported a staff of three assistant curates, a scripture reader and 24 women visitors 1858.  The church now supports a programme of contemporary arts and multiculturalism.
Vicarage built on former Poor's Land east f the church in.1852. It was enlarged by G.M. Hills in 1879 and destroyed by bombing in 1941 and replaced in Victoria Park Square.
Churchyard. This includes a Great War Memorial. This is a granite cross bearing a figure of Christ. On the base is inscribed the single word: ‘REMEMBER’.
Bethnal Green Library. This is in a wing of what was latterly a private Lunatic Asylum. The library opened in 1922 partly funded by the Carnegie Trust The brick building of 1896, was converted as into Bethnal Green Public Library and incorporates a cottage and a wing of the had been Bednal House. The Library had been the male ward block of Bethnal House Asylum of l896 probably built by James Tolley jun. and converted in 1922 by A.E. Darby, Borough Surveyor and Engineer. The entrance was remodelled in the 1920s, with an inscription above and there is also a 1920s service wing. The lending library was added in 1922 and is top-lit with decorative glass lights. On the wall are oval plaster reliefs of Darwin, Marx, Morris and Wagner, by a local artist, Karl Roberts.
War Memorial, on first floor of the library which was unveiled in 1923. There is a stained glass of 'Peace', flanked by ‘Manhood’ and 'Motherhood'. Bethnal Green's War Memorial Committee had hoped to pay for a Children's lending library and Reading Room but only raised enough for the window.
Bethnal or Bednal House also called Kirby's Castle stood facing on the green. It had been built for Kirby in 1570 and became known as the Blind Beggar's House. In 1727 it was leased by Matthew Wright, who opened a private asylum here incorporating adjacent the Red House and White House. In 1843 Kirby House itself was pulled down and rebuilt with a new block for male patients. The asylum eventually moved to Salisbury and the site was purchased by Bethnal Green Council
Shadwell War Memorial in Bethnal Green Gardens. This is a tall crucifix on a Portland stone base. The base is inscribed as follows: “A.M.D.G. / IN LOVING AND HONOURED MEMORY OF/ THE MEN OF SHADWELL WHO GAVE THEIR LIVES/ FOR KING AND COUNTRY IN THE WAR 1914-1918/ R.I.P.” The plaque was replaced in November 2013 by the Council.
Public Shelter, which disguises vents to the underground built in the 1940s in the manner of Holden's stations with rounded ends and a thin, projecting concrete roof
Kiosk, erected in the late 1940s. In modernist style.
Stairway to Heaven. By Harry Paticas as a memorial to the 170 people who lost their lives on the stairway of the tube station in 1943. It is a white concrete plinth with Bronze plaques to those who died. Opened in 2013.

Braintree Street
123 The Fountain Pub. Demolished in 2013
49 Baitul Aman Mosque and Cultural Centre. This was set up in a disused garage in 1998 and it is hoped to build a permanent mosque.


Burnham Street
Drill Hall. Army Cadet Centre in what was Tower Hamlets Engineers Volunteers Centre
Museum House. Built by the East End Dwellings Co., was founded in 1884 to house the very poor while realizing some profit. Following clearances by the Metropolitan Board of Works the Metropolitan Street Improvements Act of 1883, the company was leased a plot where it built four-storeyed Museum House in 1888.


Cambridge Heath Road
Bethnal Green tube station is on the Central line and lies between Liverpool Street and Mile End stations. It was opened as part of the delayed Central Line eastern extension in 1946 as part of the New Works programme.  It is finished with pale yellow tiling, originally made by Poole Pottery and some original panels remain on the platforms. Some tiles showing symbols of London designed by Harold Stabler. The station, and some above ground ancillary buildings, show the design influence of Charles Holden. In the Second World War the unfinished satin was used as an air raid shelter under the administration of the Metropolitan Borough of Bethnal Green – who had warned that crash barriers were needed - and became an overnight shelter.  The stairs into the station were the site of a crush during an air raid when 170 people died.
memorial bronze plaque above the stairs to the station. This has an inscription below an enamelled coat of arms: “Site of the worst civilian disaster of the Second World War. In memory of 173 men, women and children who lost their lives on the evening of Wednesday 3rd March 1943 descending these steps to Bethnal Green Underground Air Raid Shelter, Not forgotten.
Gate Piers, The station was built beneath Bethnal Green gardens and at the entrance are classical gate piers designed to disguise vents.

Cornwall Gardens
Sutton Dwellings. Three blocks built in 1909 by the ‘charitable trusts' of William Richard Sutton, carrier of Golden Lane. Painted crests on the walls.


Digby Street
In the 1840s the road had included a dump for night soil taken from houses by refuse collectors.
Digby Estate - pre-war art deco council blocks of the Digby Estate, 1935-6 by E.C.P Monson, Bethnal Green Met. Borough Architect.  This includes Butler House by Monson from 1934, with the same stripy brick
Digby Greenways Community centre. Regeneration of the estate in 1998 by Levin Bernstein included the conversion of what is said to be a depot for London Council Trams. Said to be of 1900, into a community centre.  My guess is it’s a transformer substation built by Bethnal Green in 1916
Digby Street depot. Local authority engineering department and depot which included a disinfecting station and stables. Now housing and community space. An electrical substation was opened here by the Mayor of Bethnal Green in 1916. Although Bethnal Green had applied for an order giving them powers for electrical generation plus a dust destructor in 1899 they continued to receive power from the Stepney generator until 1916. Transformers were built at New Tyssen Street and here at Digby Street depot in 1916 with Westinghouse equipment. This was later taken over by the London Electricity Board following nationalisation.
Godley VC House memorial plaque.  In 1992 the Council renamed a housing block to commemorate Sidney Frank Godley who was awarded the Victoria Cross in management of machine guns under heavy fire after he had been wounded in August 1914. He subsequently worked as a caretaker at Cranbrook School in Tower Hamlets


Gawber Street
Globe Primary School. The school opened in 1874 as a Board School called Globe Terrace School. It was remodelled in 1900 and renamed Globe Road School.  Following evacuation in the Second World War the empty school building was used by local fire-fighters to store the fire engines and trucks needed to fight fires during the blitz.  The school was also used as a base by the ARP wardens and the ground floor was filled with families after their own houses were destroyed by the bombs and fires of the blitz. The school re opened in 1944 for both Junior and Infants and was renamed Globe Primary School. For a while in the 1950s it was also known as Pilgrim School,


Globe Road
Globe Town. This was Globe Lane in the 18th 1708 probably because it was a track from Bethnal Green to the Globe pub at Mile End. Before that it was called Theeving Lane. The northern part of Globe Road was once known as Back Lane and the southern part as Globe Piece - Cattle were pastured at Globe Fields on route to Mile End cattle market. Globe Town devolved after land on the Eastfields estate was developed in the late 18th by a consortium of builders and aimed at a middle-class market. The name was revived in the 1980s when the borough was divided into small neighbourhoods for governance
264 Sweet Tea House. Tibetan Art Gallery
Housing by Samuel Barnett’s East End Dwellings Company. A group of cottages in a terrace designed by Henry Davis in red brick with rendered arched panels over doors – one of which shows the company name. They replaced weavers' cottages of the 1850s removed in slum clearances between 1900 and 1906.
Merceron House. Red and yellow-brick with terracotta decorations designed by Ernest Emmanuel for the East End Dwellings Company in 1901
Montfort House. Red and yellow-brick with terracotta decorations designed by Ernest Emmanuel for the East End Dwellings Company in 1901
Globe Primary school. Mosaics along the wall facing Globe road. The theme is s animals from around the globe and everything in the design was drawn by children in Artyface workshops.
Gretton Houses. Five-storeyed parallel blocks with terracotta decoration for the East End Dwellings Company.  Originally built as two blocks with a wide carriage arch between them. The rear blocks were rebuilt after bomb damage by Henry C. Smart & Partners in 1947. .
156 Sigsworth Hall. Victory Baptist Church. This is on the site of what was the Weslyan Methodist Chapel. It was previously a base for the Salvation Army who bought what was then Gordon Hall, from the Methodist Church in 1959. They rebuilt it and renamed it Sigsworth Hall after one of their staff Alice Sigsworth in 1960
Globe Road Wesleyan Chapel, now demolished, was opened in 1819 and later taken over by Dr. T.B. Stephenson of Children's Home as a mission hall named after General Gordon. It was sold to the Salvation Army in 1959. Its burial ground was once known as Mile End Cemetery’
Craft School Memorial Garden.  The garden was created on the old Wesleyan burial ground to ‘perpetuate the memory of its work, and of the ideals of beauty and hand craftsmanship for which it stood’. The design was carried out by F W Troup, adviser and governor of the Craft School. The entrance gate and Art Nouveau boundary railings were by a former blacksmith who had taught at the School with the Rose and Ring emblem recalling the ‘Rose and Ring Club, from which the Craft School grew’. The bronze plaque on the gate of 1925 shows The Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green and inside is an inscribed plaque by two craftswomen. A copper weather vane with a globe on a flagpole showed East India Company 17th ship, The Globe. A copper flower bowl was placed on the central mausoleum and an oak-framed map showed East London in 1703. Flagstones were donated by Bank of England. The garden was opened in 1926.
The Crafts School was established in 1890 and closed in 1915 because of financial problems during the Great War. They had moved to this site from Whitechapel where they had grown from ‘The Rose and Ring Club’ and later in 1907 moved to Stepney Green.
Saint Anthony’s church This church was funded by the sale of the building and site of All Hallows Staining in the City of London. It was designed by Ewan Christian and consecrated in 1879. The parish was united with that of Saint Simon Zelotes in 1936 and it was demolished in 1937
Flats - blocks of London County Council flats between this road and Sceptre Road.
277 Camel pub. Faced in vaguely Art Nouveau tiles in plain brown exterior tiles. Inside is an etched Camel mirror.
Globe Road and Devonshire Street Station opened in 1884 Built by the Great Eastern Railway to the west of the site of Devonshire Street. The station was at the junction with Globe Road.  There were two entrances - on the east side of Globe Road and facing onto the rod. The entrance remained into the 1950s with an elaborate arch and gates with the station name above in the ironwork. The other entrance serving Devonshire Street, now Bancroft Road,  but also Morpeth Street via a subway under the viaduct. The station only had two platforms which were served by new local lines on the then quadrupled railway. These platforms were on the viaduct and the booking office was at street level at the London end in Globe Road with another in Devonshire Street. The Devonshire street booking office and arch was still identifiable in the 1970s with ‘Great Eastern Railway’ in stonework on the bridge over.  It was closed in 1916. In 1938 it was demolished but the entrance gates survived
Globe Street Junction Signal Box. Closed 1894
Devonshire Street Signal Box. This was above the tracks at the London end. It closed in 1916.
Devonshire Street West signal box. This was at the country end of the station. Built in 1884 to replace an earlier box.
Acton Engineering. On the station site in the 1950s.
184 Muaythai. Thai boxing club. This appears to be in premises adjacent to and under the railway arches, previously used as a snooker club.
131 The Railway Tavern
Buddhist Centre entrance.  This is behind the centre which is in Roman Road. There is a large mural of flowers on the party wall with 343 Globe Road. There is also a sculpture over the gateway which shows the Nalanda crest with other symbols. This includes a lotus flower, a pair of deer and the wheel with eight spokes symbolic of the path to enlightenment. Nalanda was the name of a university which flourished in India from the 5th century BCE to about 100 CE. The design of the crest is at least a thousand years old.


Knottisford Street
Tuscan House. A twelve-storey system-built tower by Tower Hamlets Council. 1965.


Museum Passage
Four ornate cast iron lamp posts of 1897. This is an old path across Bethnal Green which in 1872 was planted with plane trees as a division between the Green and the Museum.


Old Ford Road
5 Netteswell House 17th brick house with later alterations and the oldest surviving house in Bethnal Green. Above the entrance which now leads to garden is inscription "Netteswell House - AD1553 - Remodelled 1705 and 1862". The entrance is from Old Ford Road and the house overlooks the grounds of Bethnal Green Museum. It was originally attached to the chapel of ease built in.1512.  This house was built in 1553 by Sir Ralph Warren, Lord Mayor of London, and Oliver Cromwell's great-grandfather. But this was been replaced by two houses in 1720; and themselves replaced in 1787-91 by Ruby for Anthony Natt Rector of Netteswell in, Essex. It was for a while the museum curator's official residence, but is now in private ownership.
Community food garden. This was established in April 2012 and is managed by the Globe Community Food Garden Committee who allocate plots to residents.


Peary Place
This was once called North Passage – which presumably is why the name was changed to that of the Polar explorer, Robert Peary.


Roman Road
This was once called Green Street and at the Cambridge Heath end it divides the closes of the Green. It is shown on Gascoyne's map of 1703 as a drift way but it was called Green Street by 1883.  It was renamed because of Roman finds in the 19th
11 Bethnal Green Fire Station. Built 1969 by the GLC Architect's Department. in dark brick and concrete
19-35 Museum House. Built in 1888 this is the the earliest surviving tenement by Davis & Emmanuel for the East End Dwellings Co. It has three storeys above shops on and had flats with shared WCs.
50 Bacton Tower. This was built in 1965 by Yorke Rosenberg & Mardell. It was the first fully. System built tower in what was then the new Borough of Tower Hamlets, It is in pre-cast reinforced concrete clad with YRM's trademark white tiles. Since 1990 it has had a pitched roof and flimsy porch
51 the old Bethnal Green Fire Station which has since become the Western Order of Buddhists. London Buddhist Centre.  The fire station was built in 1888-9 by Robert Pearsall for the Metropolitan Board of Works, in a free Arts and Crafts Gothic in red brick and -terracotta decoration. It has a symmetrical front, with entrances through brick arches. The hose tower was once topped by a, turret. A new entrance has been made, through a gateway with a wrought-iron design depicting the crest of Nalanda, by Arya Daka. The interior was remodelled by M.E Wharton with Windhorse Design and includes murals of natural landscapes by Chintamani. There are two shrine rooms with figures of Buddha, also by Chintamani.  There is a courtyard with flowers and a water sculpture. The main entrance to the building is a glass-walled conservatory with a gilded Buddha surrounded by plants
37 The Atlas Pub. This pub was here before 1869 and closed towards the end of the Second World War. It has since been in use as a shop.
62 Albert Jacobs house. Council offices
62-66 Empire Picturedrome. This opened in 1913 with independent operators throughout its existence. In 1946 it was renamed Empire Cinema and in 1955, Premier Cinema. It was closed in 1959. The building was demolished and the site is now under Alfred Jacob House
63 The Devon Arms. This pub was here before 1852, and then called Lord John Russell. It closed in 1924.
67 Black Horse Pub – which is written in cement lettering on the gable. This pub was there before 1869 and in 1883 rebuilt by Hammack & Lambert.  It was a Truman’s Brewery house but bought by Bellhaven Brewery in 1985. It closed in 1995 and was used as an art gallery.
85 Baitful Murmur academy. This mosque and cultural centre moved to 100 Roman Road. However following a dispute some members moved back here.
100 site of The Weavers Arms. This was a Taylor Walker Brewery pub, which was here before 1850. It was rebuilt after the Second World War as the ground floor of a block of flats. It closed in 1994 and was used as council offices. It later became a mosque and an Islamic cultural centre.
100 Globe Town Mosque and Cultural Centre. The Group moved from 85 Roman Road to these former council offices.
109 The Ship pub was there before 1860 and closed during the Great War. It remained a beer house throughout its existence/
123 The Star & Garter Pub, This was open from before 1869 to 1914.
129 The Old Friends Pub, This was Watney’s House there before 1869. It closed in 2009 and is now a Chinese takeaway.
Brick arch surmounted by a globe and a small public garden on the corner with Globe Road as some sort of entrance to Globe Town


Sceptre Road
London County Council flats with sun balconies and courtyards. Five stories high

Stainsbury Street
Bonner School, Bethnal Green is a two form entry school. This was originally Bonner Street Board School built on the site of Twig Folly British School in   1875 in Queen Anne style buildings by Edward Robson and John Stevenson.  It was reorganised in 1930 and again, following evacuation in 1945 and then renamed Bonner Primary in 1949. The previous school on the site had been Twig Folly British School which had opened on 1830 as a Lancastrian School in Sidney Street. It had been built here with money from both Parliament and the British and Foreign Schools. Society and conveyed to trustees in 1837. It was eventually replaced by Bonner Street School. The Board School buildings were demolished in 2005 and replaced.
Memorial on the school wall on the corner of Hartley and Bonner Street. This is a stone tablet beneath a Della Robbia style roundel of infant in swaddling bands. Erected in 1936, in place of a temporary wooden shrine of 1916, to commemorate the dead of Mace Street, "Love shall tread out the baleful fires of anger & in its ashes plant the tree of peace"

Sugar Loaf Walk
The name is thought to come from a public house.  There was a clothing factory here, making uniforms during World War One.

Victoria Park Square
Flats rugged Brutalist for the fire station round the corner in Roman Road.
12 Police Station built in 1997
16 This was the clubhouse and chapel of the Bethnal Green University Settlement,. Built in 1888 it is a 2-storey clubhouse and a chapel both in red: The University Settlement was established here by three Oxford theology graduates to provide 'entertainment, rational amusement, and social intercourse' for the people of the East End. In 1887 they were based in No.17 and built this at No.16 plus a hall to the rear which is now demolished They Shared the premises with the Repton Club, which included one of the largest boxing clubs in the country. The building is now offices and flats.
Victoria Park Square Hall operated as a cinema during 1912 and 1913.
17 Temple House. Workers Educational; Association. Offices. The staircase incorporates a dog-gate. Its gateway was brought from Hythe Church, Kent, by Sir Wyndham Deedes, principal of the University House Settlement, who lived here. from 1923 to 1939. He retired to Bethnal Green from the army and served on the council and the L.C.C.  The house was built as a pair with 18 in the late 17th.
18 The house is said to have a Tudor Well in the cellar. It houses the Young Foundation and was the Institute of Community Studies. The Young Foundation is in the same buildings where Michael Young and Peter Willmott researched and wrote Family and Kinship in East London in the 1950s.  The Institute for Community Studies had been set up in 1954 as an urban studies think tank, bringing academic research and practical social innovation together. It helped create over 60 organisations, including the Open University and the Consumers’ Association.  Michael Young has been described as “the world’s most successful entrepreneur of social enterprises” As the author of Labour’s manifesto in 1945 he played a key role in shaping the post-war welfare state. In the early 1950s he set up the Institute of Community Studies. He was involved in the creation of NHS Direct, the spread of after-school clubs and neighbourhood councils and in his later life was instrumental in creating the University of the Third Age and Grandparents Plus.
21 In 1853 Henry Merceron leased this to the Queen's Own Light Infantry Regiment of the Tower Hamlets militia. by the 1860s this included a barracks and the Territorial Army site in Globe Road still used by army cadets.
26 Montfort House.  Flats built for the East End Dwellings Company by its architects Davis & Emmanuel in 1901 as part of their scheme between here and Globe Road.   Inside are enclosed stairs and self-contained flats rather than single rooms. The name reflects the legend of the blind beggar, who was supposedly Simon de Montfort in disguise.
Mulberry House. This was one of the last schemes for the East End Dwellings Co. Built by Arthur Kenyan in 1934-6. It is on the ground of what was Aldgate House in 1643,
Our Lady of the Assumption. The Church and Priory of the Assumptionists is on the site of Aldgate House,  and later Park Congregational Chapel.  It is Roman Catholic built 1911-12 by Edward Goldie. The site was given by Florence Cottrell-Dormer.
Priory of the Assumptionist Fathers. .
Aldgate House. This had been built in 1643 and the site of the house and its gardens are now covered by Mulberry House and the Church and Priory of the Assumption. In 1760 Ebenezer Mussell had bought part of the City gate of Aldgate when it was demolished, and used the bricks and stones to build an annexe to this house – hence the name.. It was demolished in 1806 and replaced by houses, and in 1816 by the Park Chapel
Park or Ebenezer Chapel was  built on site of Aldgate House in 1811 and originated in Independent Calvinists under minister .Robert. Langford . It closed in 1876.
Swinburne House stands on the site of the Red House.
Red House. This was one of the buildings of the Bethnal Green Asylum. Built before 1831.


Welwyn Street
Mendip House. Built by the East End Dwellings Company in 1900, with a plaque on the wall facing Globe Road.


Wessex Street
28 Bangabandhu Primary School. The school dates from1989 and has been in these premises since 1991. The name of the school means 'Friend of Bengal'. It is the honorary title given to Sheikh Mujibur Rahman who helped found Bangladesh in 1971
National School. The John Scurr Primary School was previously on this site and it was later an annexe for Morpeth School.


Sources
Aldous. London Villages 
Bethnal Green Free Art and History. Web site
Bethnal Green tube Station. Wikipedia, Web site.
British History Online. Bethnal Green 
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
Devonshire Street Station. Wikipedia. Web site
East London History Society Review
GLIAS Newsletter
Globe Primary School. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site.
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Lucas, London
Robinson and Chesshyre. The Green, 
St.John on Bethnal Green. Web site
V&A Museum of Childhood. Web site.
Young Foundation. Web site

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Bethnal Green

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Ilford
The Line runs north eastwards from Bethnal Green Station

Post to the west Three Colt Lane
Post to the north Bethnal Green

Bellevue Place
Cottages 18th-19th brick terrace with garden paved walk from Cleveland Way., with ‘true cottage gardens’.

Cambridge Heath Road
This was at one time called Cambridge Road and also partly Dog Lane.  The heath is an area now built over at the northern end.
223 Morain House. This was a sheet metal works for Sol Schaverien and Sons, Ltd built on the site of a mission hall. Schaverien eventually concentrated on their umbrella manufacturing business here moving to a site at Mile End in the 1980s. The building has since been used by an electrical equipment business with a series of art galleries in the office accommodation.
231 The East London Electric Theatre opened in 1911 operated by Frank Stebbing. By 1918 it was called the East London Picture Palace and closed in 1919.
205 1940s office block on a site which before the Second World War was the Three Colts Pub. The pub was there before 1820 and may have closed before the Great War.
93 Sovereign House. Site of the Foresters Cinema which was opened as a hall attached to the Artichoke Public House from 1825, and converted into the Foresters Music Hall in 1889 by Edward Clark. Known as the Royal Foresters Music Hall from 1901-1904 it reverted back to Foresters Music Hall from 1904, when it was operated by the MacNaghten Vaudeville Circuit. In 1916 was re-named the New Lyric Music Hall and was also known as the Lyric Theatre. It closed in 1917 re-opened in 1926 when it opened as the Foresters Super Cinema with alterations by George Coles.  In 1937 it was taken over by Oscar Deutsch’s Odeon Theatres Ltd. It suffered from damage in the Second World War, and was closed in 1947 and re-opened in 1949.  It was eventually closed in 1960 and demolished in 1964
Bethnal Green Gardens.  This quarter square covers only a tiny portion of the southernmost end.  The gardens cover an area safeguarded by trustees as ‘Poors Land’ since the 1690s in order to stop development.  The section covered here consists of ornamental gardens and some tennis courts.
The bridge taking the Great Eastern Railway over Cambridge Heath Road is a replacement of 1893
Mile End Station. This was built in 1841 on the Eastern Counties Railway and from map evidence it may have been on the south east side of the road.  In 1872 it closed having been replaced by replaced by Bethnal Green Junction
135 The Carpenters Arms. This was present in what was then Dog Row in 1849 and at 34 Cambridge Road in 1861. It was rebuilt after the Second World War on a different site as part of Donegal House on the Collingwood Estate
Brick arch surmounted by a globe and a small public garden on the corner with Cephas Street as some sort of entrance to Globe Town.
Rope walk. Before the 1890s a rope walk ran from Three Colt Lane between this road and Buckhurst Street


Cephas Avenue
This was originally St. Peter Street and was laid out in a straight line, running north from Mile End Road and centred on the church. The housing was built up from the 1830s to the 1890s.
50 ½ Katherine Wheel pub. Closed and now housing


Cephas Street
In the 19th the east end of the road, near the church, was called St. Peter’s Street and the end near Cambridge Heath Road was Devonshire Street
Frank Dobson Square.  Named after the artist of with Woman with a Fish which had been acquired by the London County Council in the 1960s as a feature for the Cleveland Estate. . The 1950s statue was used as a drinking fountain until vandalised and then removed. There is a replica in Millwall Park.
John Scurr Primary School.   John Scurr was born in 1876 and grew up in Poplar. He was secretary of the Poplar Labour League and District Chairman of the Dockers’ Union.  He was elected to Poplar Borough Council in 1919 and in 1921 he was sent to Prison for refusing to levy Poplar’s share London County Council rates. He was later an Alderman of the LCC. And MP for Mile End Ward in 1923 and played a leading role in 1930 Education Bill. The school is housed in a 1920's three-decker building which appears to be part of what was Cephas Street School. John Scurr School appears to previously have been in Wessex Road in the site now used by the Bangabandhu Primary School.
Cephas Street School. This was a School Board for London school built as an elementary school in 1928. It was badly bombed in the Second World War.  It is assumed that ‘School house’ in Cephas Street is one of the original school buildings.
Smith, Druce & Co.  Phoenix Gin Distillery. This had an artesian well
St. Peters Court. Housing in what was St Peter’s Church. This was built in 1838 for the Metropolis Churches Fund. It was designed by Edward Blore, but bombed in the Second World War. The Vicarage was to the west of the church and the Sunday school to the east


Cleveland Way
Cleveland Estate. Designed and built by the London County Council Architects Department in 1962
64 Crown Pickle Works. Barons Crown Pickles & Binnella Ltd. This was on the site of what is now Lamplighter Close.
56 Golden Eagle pub demolished in 2000.  There are now flats on the site.

Colebert Avenue
Previously Devonshire Street
Moses and Solomon Almshouses. Thus charity was set up to to relieve the poverty and to ameliorate the condition of the Jewish poor of the Metropolis. It consst of Twelve tenements Founded in 1838 by Lyon Moses and the late Henry Solomon, and administered by the Jewish Board of Guardians. The almshouses appear to have remained there until the early 1950s. There now appears to be ball courts on the site.
Barrows Charity Almshouses. Barrow’s Almshouses were founded by Joseph Barrow. The Almshouses of the Spanish and Portuguese Congregation, founded in 1703 were amalgamated with the Montefiore Almshouses, founded by Sir Moses Montefiore, and the Pacifico Almshouses, founded by Dr. Emanuel Pacifico, and they were all removed to a new set of buildings in Devonshire-street on the site of Barrow's Almshouses, and opened in 1894. They appear to have gone by the Second World War. The site is now flats.
Cigar Box Factory

Hadleigh Close
Railway Viaduct. The skew bridge was replaced in 1880 with a substantial iron bridge carried on cast iron Tuscan columns. The bridge is said to be of interest for its five slanting rows of columns.
Blind arch to the east, with a pylon-formed buttress to its left and beyond a further row of five arches.


Hayfield Passage
Recalls the time when hay carts would travel down to the hay market in Whitechapel High Street.


Malcolm Place
Railway Viaduct – a Section of the north side of the Eastern Counties Railway Viaduct built 1838-40, for which John Braithwaite was engineer. It is in brick, and includes a number of arches and buttresses. A skew bridge spans Malcolm Street to Braintree Street. This viaduct carried the first railway to connect London with East Anglia. The arcade along Malcolm Street was originally called Railway Place. The viaduct is from the first generation of railway building.

Mile End Road
A wide thoroughfare with broad pavements with gardens and shrubberies. The open land attracted large institutions in the 19th including workhouses. It was here that Jewish tailors came here to hear their leaders like Lewis Lyons. In 1898 Theodore Hertzl proclaimed Zionism here and in 1917 the Jewish Legion was formed here to liberate Palestine from the Turks.
31 Tower Hamlet Mission. Charis provides therapeutic residential care for addicts.  The was established in 1870 by Frederick Charrington, heir to a brewery fortune and set up as a charity by the Charity Commission in 1938, following his death. Charis opened in 1988.  There are three staff houses and an administration block. The central feature is a light well and a courtyard with a small fountain and pool give light and a feeling of peace and there is a Chapel for prayer and meditation.
Statue of William Booth. This is a copy of the statue by G.E Wade which is outside the Salvation Army Headquarters at Denmark Hill. It is painted grey and in fibreglass to defeat vandalism – the bottom s also filled with concrete. However the book which he once held is gone. It was put up in 1979 to mark the 150th anniversary of his birth.
39 Statue of Edward VII.  Life-sized bronze bust of unveiled on 12 October 1911. Erected by the Freemasons of the Eastern District of which he was Grand Master.
69-90 Wickham & Sons.  Department store with an extensive frontage along the road. The Wickham family were originally drapers, trading from 69, 71 and 73 Mile End Road.  Built by Thomas Jay Evans
81 occupied by the Spiegelhalter family business of clockmakers and jewellers. The Wickham family acquired the entire block except the Spiegelhalter's shop at 81 and planned a major rebuilding of their shop. This time the Spiegelhalter family refused to part with their premises at any price. Their refusal to move led to the odd situation in which the new store was built around the family shop which continued to trade when Wickham’s opened on both its sides.
91 Al-Huda Mosque. Built in 1928 by Whinney, Son and Austen Hall as a bank and closed in 1987 after repeated bank robberies. In 2000 it became a Mosque, which serves the Somali Muslim community.
93-95 The Genesis Cinema. This opened in 1848 as the Eagle pub and music hall. This was later Lusby's Summer and Winter Garden and later Lusby's Music Hall which was burnt down in 1884. The owners, Crowder & Payne, hired Frank Matcham to design the Paragon Theatre of Varieties which opened in 1885. This had a revolutionary air extraction system which helped Matcham become the most successful theatre architect of his day. The drop-curtain was painted by. Charles Brooke and interior decoration was by the Framemaker's Gilders' and Decorators' Association. Charlie Chaplin made his first stage appearance here. In 1912 it was renamed the Mile End Empire and used as a cinema and was bought in 1928 by the United Picture Theatre circuit and then in 1934 ABC. ABC replaced the old theatre with a modern building designed by their chief architect, W.R. Glen. In 1963 it housed the Royal World Premiere of Sparrows Can't Sing hosted by Ronnie and Reggie Kray attended by the Earl of Snowdon because Princess Margaret was ill - the auditorium had been specially redecorated and a new wide screen had been fitted. As well as Barbara Windsor and half show biz of the day, there were trumpeters of the Household Cavalry and music from the Metropolitan Police Band. It was called the Cannon cinema when it closed in the 1980s. It opened as Genesis Cinema was opened in 1999, with Barbara Windsor as the guest of honour.
129 Adams House. This is remaining building of the Anchor Brewery. It is offices and flats called Charrington House. The name of Adams House comes from Adams Solicitors who own it.
133-135 house built in the 18th which  incomplete and reduced to first floor level. In the 1960s, it was used as a garage, and used for the storage of car tyres. In 1994, an arson attack almost led to the loss of the panelled interior.
137-139 Malplaquet House. Built as one of three in 1742 by Thomas Andrews and named after the Battle of Malplaquet. Brewer Harry Charrington lived 1794 -1833 and following his occupancy the house was subdivided, and shops built on the front garden. A number of small businesses were there in the 19th - a bookmaker, a printer and 1910-1975 by the Union of Stepney Ratepayers. Architect Richard Seifert provided new shop fronts following repairs to Second World War bomb damage. In the 1990s, Spitalfields Trust helped save it from demolition. In 1998, Tim Knox and Todd Longstaffe-Gowan bought it from the Spitalfields Trust. In 2010, it was described as "possibly the most superbly restored, privately owned Georgian house in the country
156 Hayfield Tavern. This pub dates from the 18th, it was the brewery tap for Charrington’s Brewery and the rooms upstairs were where Brewery directors met for private dining and meetings. It was called the Pearly Queen from 1970 and is now the Hayfield Masala,
166 Early 19th house. Painted brick with parapet. Modern shop on ground floor.
168 This was the Black Horse. It was originally a Charrington Brewery house.  It has its original pub façade and inside is has a tiled mural of a black horse.  It later became a gay bar and is now closed.
182 site of Augustus Attwell's butcher's shop. Mabel Lucy Attwell was born here in 1879 and became a popular illustrator of children's books.
Anchor Brewery – This was Charrington's Brewery. It had been built in 1757 by Westfield and Moss, replacing their Bethnal Green brewery. In 1766, John Charrington, and After Moss retired in 1783 John and Henry Charrington were in full control of the business.  By 1783 John Charrington and his brother Harry were the proprietors. In 1785 they installed a steam engine and by 1808 they were second in the list of the leading 12 London brewers. After Charrington's death in 1815, the business was continued by his son, Nicholas. In 1833 Charrington's began brewing stout and porter as well as ale. At its peak it produced 20,000 barrels of beer a week. In 1872 they bought a brewery in Burton on Trent and thenceforth operated the two breweries. They also bought up 40 other brewers between 1833 and 1930. Frederick Charrington, heir to the Charrington Brewery, began his Temperance movement in Whitechapel, and he relentlessly pursued brothel keepers, hounding them out by noting their activities in his black book. . In 1967, Charrington formed Bass Charrington Limited. The Anchor Brewery ceased production in 1975, but remained the company's head office. Most of the brewery buildings had been demolished and has been redeveloped as housing, offices and a shopping centre as the Anchor Retail Park.


Wylen Close
Gouldman House. Tower block of reinforced concrete frame on stilts part of Cleveland estate


Sources
Aldous. London Villages 
British History Online. Bethnal Green
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Cinema treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
East London History Society Review
Genesis Cinema. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
John Scurr School. Web site
London Encyclopaedia,
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
Lucas, London
Malplaquet House. Wikipedia. Web site
Meulenkamp and Wheatley. Follies.
Panoramaeast. Web site
The Green, 
TourEast. Leaflet