Saturday, 23 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Whalebone Lane

Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield continues eastwards

Post to the west Chadwell Heath
Post to the east Crowlands

Coppen Road
Industrial area built up since the 1920s.
Capricorn Centre

David Road
Gateposts on the bend at what must have been the entrance to Lymington Secondary School

Eric Road
St.Chad’s Church Hall. With local activities like a youth club called United Origin.

Freshwater Road
Trading and industrial area – although the original big chemical and related factories have been replaced partly by building supplies warehouses, and smaller specialist organisations –like the Tate Gallery’s publishing house
Baird and Tatlock. Buildings here built 1951-1960 Analytical chemists, scientific instrument makers and laboratory furnishers originating in Glasgow with factories in the London area. Eventually part of British Drug Houses and owned by Merck Ltd under which name the business later operated and this involved the storage and packaging of various chemicals. The buildings were demolished between 1995 and 1999
Hoo Hing. Chinese food supplier in a building from 1999 on part of what was the Baird and Tatlock site
41-51 Nichols and Clarke.  Building supplies. Founded in 1875 in London, they claim to be the largest privately owned national manufacturer and distributor of building products.

Kemp Road
Kemp Road Industrial Park an estate of small industrial units on the site of what was Barton Bakery.
23 Concord House. Harmony Christian Centre
Kingdom Power Bible Church International

Lymington Fields
Vacant and made up of grassland. The west part of the site was originally part of now demolished Barking Technical College  and associated playing fields (in an adjacent square)..
Gravel Pit. The eastern part of the site was formerly a gravel pit and landfill from the 1960’s. A siding ran into this from the railway

Saville Road
West Ham United Football Club training ground

Selinas lane
Intensive industrial area with many light and less light industries.  Very little information about any of them.
Dairy Crest Depot. This is the liquid foods department of this national dairy brand. State of the art dairy processes 400 million litres of milk a year
The Redeemed Christian Church of God Fountain of Living Water. This is in Ronac House, brick built factory unit owned by Ronacrete, concrete company. The building is on the line of the siding from the Great Eastern Railway to the now defunct gravel pit to the south.
Selinas Lane Islamic Centre. VW House. Previously in use as a motor sales centre.

St Chad's Road.
St Chad‘s church. This was originally founded as a chapel-of-ease to St Peter and St Paul, in Dagenham. It was built 1895-8 by Frederic Chancellor in red brick. It has an embattled clock tower, added in 1897-8 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee.

Whalebone Lane
The Whalebones themselves were in the High Road north of this area/
Whalebone Bridge over the Great Eastern Railway.
Triptons Service Station. Triptons was the name of a farm on this site
Whalebone Farm was opposite the entrance to Selinas Lane. It was also called Butlers Farm

Essex Journal
London Borough of Barking and Dagenham. Web site
Nature conservation in Barking and Dagenham.
St.Chad’s Web site
Victoria County History. Essex

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Ilford

Great Eastern Railway – from Ilford to Shenfield
The railway from Ilford station continues north westwards

Post to the west Great Ilford
Post to the north Seven Kings
Post to the east Seven Kings
Post to the south Loxford

Buckingham Road
Karamsar Centre. Sikh Centre in what was Ilford County Court. The court building were sold to the Sikh community in 2013
Romford and Ilford County Court. History: In the late 19th legal services provided by Romford County Court, for the Becontree Division of Essex.  In 1910 it was renamed ‘Romford and Ilford County Court’ and some sittings were held in Ilford Town Hall.  In 1937 this purpose built court was opened and designed by J.H. Markham of the Office of Works.  It is a single storey building with the Royal standard over the main door.  There is a small garden area fronting the High Road enclosed by railings with red brick piers.
Cemetery.  The Ilford Burial Board, established in 1880, laid out a cemetery adjoining St.Mary's church. It was originally called Great Ilford Cemetery. The 19th Chapel has been demolished because of vandalism. Howards & Sons War Memorial has been moved to Barkingside cemetery. Facing the gate is a memorial to Sir Peter Griggs, first MP for Ilford. There is also a war memorial which says ‘Their name liveth for evermore. On these panels are commemorated those members of His Majesty's Forces who gave their lives for their country in the Great War 1914 - 1918. Whose graves in this cemetery but are not marked by separate headstones.”

Clarks Road
Until around 1900 this area was a brickfield owned by Henry Clark and a row of Brickfield Cottages lay in the area which became Clark’s Road
Pit – this area was the site of a pit opposite the Cauliflower Public House and confusingly it has sometimes also been called the Cauliflower Pit.
Corporation Yard. 
Amity Community Centre
Liberty House and the Redeemed Church of God.
Bruton House Axis School
. This was at one time a clothing factory but, like the other buildings in the complex, were part of the Ilford Council buildings behind the Electricity Department offices in the High Road.
The Ilford Training Centre. An outreach centre of Havering College.
Ilford Ambulance Station – this opened post Second World War and was out of use by the late 1950s
Electricity substation – a main substation for the area.

Connaught Road 
Eden Christian Centre. At the junction with Stanley Road. This African Evangelical church was originally a Primitive Methodist Chapel. It opened as an iron building in 1897 and closed in 1936 and re-opened as the apostolic church. In the Second World War. It was bombed and in 1960 a new building was put up on the site including a house called ‘The Manse’.
Clementswood and Mayfield Community Centre. One of a number of businesses in a mews area.

Golfe Road
Homes of Rest for the Church of England Temperance Society dated 1910, with designs by Arthur C. Russell for the Sons of Temperance Friendly Society, Pension Almshouse Fund. Red brick houses with fire-resistant, reinforced concrete to upper-floors. There is a brick plaque with mosaic decoration and inscriptions and a stone memorial plaque.  Flanking bungalows each with porch that in the centre with characterful round arch as a curved wall and a little tower at the back.
Gordon Infants School. Opened in 1930.

Gordon Road
Territorial Army. 217 Field Squadron - Royal Engineers. The Regiment forms an active part of 2 (National Communications) Signal Brigade, providing military communications for national operations. The TA base in Ilford has strong links to the Worshipful Company of Poulters of London. It is a modern building set in spacious grounds. The Army Reserve Centre is also here. The centre is set in Gordon Fields, used for military and other displays but also as a sports ground. Previously the site was the Gordon Club - complete with a crenulated tower and was the home of HQ Company of the 4th, The Essex Regiment until 1969. The original Drill Hall was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms where 'Centreway' is today. These original buildings at Gordon Fields were demolished in the late 1980's
St Peter and St.Paul Roman Catholic Primary School. The school originated in 1900. In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants

Green Lane,
Old main road. The western end was diverted in the 19th having been closed by the brick field owner in 1826 and diverted.
Barracks. This building is noted on pre-20th maps south of the road on the cusp of the southwards curve east of South Park Road.  It is however east of the site of the later TA Centre and Barracks.
63 Prince of Wales pub

Griggs Approach
Elevated road which crosses the Great Eastern Railway and the old A118 High Road which is pedestrianised beneath it.
Eastern Roundabout. It is hoped to put a mammoth on this

Hainault Road
1-7 Harrison Gibson’s depository. Advertised on a still decipherable wall sign to the rear of the building. Now Stratford School of Management.
Spectrum Tower. Housing which was part of a plan to bring more people to live in the town centre this is a 12 storey block by ATP Group Partners built in 2002-3 with bright blue tiles.

High Road
In the 18th the road from London to Colchester, ran through Ilford. It was of Roman origin and from 1721 was controlled by the Middlesex and Essex Turnpike Trust. It remained as the main road until 1925, when Eastern Avenue was opened.
204-212 Site of The Vine Congregational church. This was called Ilford High Road church and was founded in 1892 by the Metropolitan District Committee of the London Congregational Union. In 1894 an iron church was opened in the High Road and in 1895 a large hall was also opened. Charles H. Vine became minister and remained until his death in 1930. The hall was enlarged, and in 1901 a new church was opened. In 1910 additional buildings were put up. Vine started the Men's Meeting, and other groups. After his death the High Road church was called the Vine Memorial church. In 1960 part of the site was sold and a new, smaller church built Richmond Road
229 The General. The original name is The General Havelock. It was built in 1900 Arts and Crafts style with a corner tower
246-250 The Premier Electric Theatre was opened in 1911with a tall tower topped by a dome. In 1921, it was operated by Prince’s Electric Theatres Ltd. and from 1922 by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. It closed 1925. The building was taken over Mecca Dancing Ltd. and opened as the Palais De Dance in 1925. In 1959 a new plain facade was built, and it became the Palais Dancehall. Bill Haley and His Comets appeared there as did The Who, The Kinks and The Small Faces. It was called in the 1970’s, and taken over by the Rank Organisation it became a nightclub named Fifth Avenue, and then Jumpin' Jacks. It was demolished in 2008, and a housing development named Vision20 was built there.
231-251 Shops.  Some of this site was the Thompson Rooms. In 1846 Nancy and Eleanor Thompson of Clements built an infant department for the Barking Church School Committee. It bore a tablet 'To God and the Church, 1846' with a gabled front in yellow brick and was later used as public rooms. The gabled facade was in yellow brick, in a 'Tudor' style. It was demolished for the current shops in 1966
Reading Room. In 1858 Eleanor Thompson built a reading room behind the infants’ school.  This was for run by the master of the National school, who educational and entertainments events there. In 1863 it housed a mechanics' institute. In 1954 it was sold and became the Little Theatre. The Little Theatre, Ilford, was run as a weekly 'rep', for eleven months a year, by eight amateur companies. It was replaced by the Kenneth More Theatre.
Drill Hall. This was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms also the gift of Eleanor Thompson. It became the headquarters of the first Volunteer Battalion, Essex Regiment. In the 1960s it became a youth club and roller-skating rink.
Lucana Temperance Billiard Hall, one of a chain built and managed by a specialist company
255-259 Lynton House council offices of the 1960s. Concrete faced in rough, dark aggregate.
261-275 Ilford Retail Park. This included Fitness First and Lidl. On the site of a United Dairies Depot. In the 1920s there was a private bus garage here for the Gretna Bus Company which was also called Paterson Omnibus Co.
270-294 Ilford police station. Built in 1995. 
290-296 Bal-Ami Jukeboxes were made here in the 1950s. It was also the headquarters of the Balfour (Marine) Engineering Company
300-310 Passage to India. This was a cinema, bingo hall and then a music venue and now a banqueting complex serving the Asian community since 2001. The foyer was used as a pub called the Overdraft but was later closed. It was built for the Associated British Cinemas circuit designed by their house architect William R. Glen as the Regal opening in July 1937. There was a Compton 3Manual/6Rank theatre organ. In 1962 it was re-named ABC and in 1973 converted into a triple screen. It closed in 1984 and was converted into a bingo club, later taken over by Granada Theatres. It closed as a bingo club in 1989 but in 1992 when it became ‘The Island’, holding live pop concerts. By 2001 it was a banqueting hall which remains called the Prabas Banqueting Suite. For a whole the balcony area was the Ilford Cinema screening Bollywood films.
316 City Gates Christian Centre.  Characterful, former Billiard Hall and club with glazed terracotta and a Greek acroterion crest.  This building has been in use by the City Gates Evangelical Church, previously Elim Church, for many years. They have moved out but their new building collapsed before it was finished and they are using temporary accommodation nearby. The future of their old building is unclear
322 Ilford Baptist Church Built 1907 by George Baines & Son.  With a big window to the street. The church can trace its roots back to preachers here in the 1830s.
323 London Tigers Community Centre.  Charity offering opportunities to disadvantaged young people, largely through sports.
St Peter and St Paul. Roman Catholic Church built 1898-9 by R.L. Cunis. In1895 a Roman Catholic mission was set up by the ex-chaplain of Ilford Hospital. A temporary iron church was built in Ilford Lane, and a permanent church followed
324 Ilford Catholic club. Also called the Guildhall as a venue for music events. After the Great War a group began to get together a football team and were allocated two rooms in the adjacent school as a clubhouse and Ilford Catholic Men’s Social Club was set up. At the same time the Ilford Catholic War Memorial Committee were fund raising for an institute. From1922 ladies were admitted. In 1924 the current premises were purchased at auction, having been a car showroom.  The club house was opened in 1924 by the Lord Mayor of London and named Ilford Guildhall.  The club then continued to expand and to add buildings and facilities. In the Second World War the club was requisitioned for government use.
St. Peter and St. Paul's Roman Catholic junior and infant schools originated in 1900 through the work of Canon Patrick Palmer as the first Catholic school in Ilford . In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants. The School is now in Gordon Road in new buildings. The High Street buildings are now the Cardinal Heenan Centre.
326 Cardinal Heenan Centre. Catholic community centre next to the church mainly in the buildings of the school. Facing the wall is a stone plaque depicting young people.
370-372 Ilford Spiritualist Church. This was the Ilford Unitarian church. This originated in 1906. And a church opened in here in 1909.The Building suffered bomb damage in 1943, and re-opened in 1949. It closed in 1979.
374-376 factory building and house. Also says it is Aladdin’s Shisha Bar.
400 Gurdwara Karamsar. Sikh temple of sandstone from Rajistan carved by Rajistani stone masons with domes and god insignia.  Built by Narinder Singh Assi 2005. This replaces a previous building converted from a Labour Party Hall.
426 St.Mary the Virgin. The parish church was built in 1829-31, on land given by John Scrafton Thompson of Clements. It stands in a large graveyard, and is a brick building designed by James Savage, with a wide galleried nave. The tower was built in 1866 as a memorial to John and Elizabeth Davis of Cranbrook and partly demolished 1950.  There was an uncompleted scheme to rebuild in the 20th leaving a large chancel, grafted on to an existing building.
450 Charter House. Office block built on the site of St Mary’s Parish Hall. This had originally been a school built in 1830 by the Barking Church School Committee on a site called Cricklewood. It was first called the Cricklewood School and was a National Society School. The school was closed in 1922 and the buildings demolished in 1964 to be replaced by Charter House.
452 Dreams Bed Store with a snooker hall upstairs. This was built as the Ilford Borough Electricity Offices. Opened in 1931 by the Ilford UDC and designed by L.E.J. Reynolds, Borough Surveyor.  Steel frame building, in Portland stone. With deep window bays to the ground-floor showrooms. 
460 Fire station
531-535 Hotshots Bowling

Holstock Road
Vine Church Hall.

Ley Street
Railway Cottages. Between Academy Roofing Supplies depot and the staff railway yard entrance, and backing on to the railway is a terrace of houses of mixed age and style. Of these 23 of the oldest were built in the 1897 and 1902 by the Great Eastern Railway Company on their land for staff at the Ilford Goods Yard.
293-297 Panjabi Centre. This is the Redbridge Panjabi Sabhiacharik (Cultural) Sabha formed in 1983.  At that time a petition was got together with the help of London East Gurdwara Singh Sabha (Sikh Temple). Following that a great deal of fund raising ensued. In 1984 a grant from the Greater London Council allowed them to buy an old print factory to become the Panjabi Centre which was formally inaugurated in 1985.
284-294 Costello Bespoke Tailors. Making uniforms and theatrical clothing.
308 The Bell. Pub which dates from at least the 1850s. Seems to be a bit rough.

Park Road
Tulse Arms. Built in 1905 by Foulham & Riches in red terracotta. Now closed and in use as a shop.

The line had been built from 1839. It went through flat fields in a continuous low cutting. From 1899 the line was quadrupled for the whole of this stretch following an agreement with developer, Cameron Corbett. The two extra lines fitted in where possible, and bridges upgraded as a consequence.
Brickfield Siding. This probably dated from the 1840s and lay east of Ilford on the down side. It was removed by 1882
Ilford Goods Yard. This was on the up side east of Ilford and was built from 1881. It had two sidings parallel to the main line and a signal box called Ilford Brickfield Sidings, later Ilford Goods Yard. In 1893 the public goods yard at Ilford Station closed and therefore this yard was expanded – and a goods shed, three sidings and cattle pens were added. A footbridge ran right across the site. The goods yard closed in 1968 although a siding to the United Dairies depot remained open.
Carriage sidings. Eight sidings were built in 1898 and survived in their original form until the 1930s. Water supply to them was installed in 1900 with an artesian well, tank, pump and engine house.
Ilford Carriage Sidings signal box built in 1882 to replace Ilford Goods Yard box.
Coal Depot. This opened in 1900 as part of the Goods Yard
Loco shed. This dated from 1900
Electric Car Sheds. These are on the site of the carriage sidings and loco sheds closed in and removed in the 1940s.
Signal boxes to control the 1890s goods developments were removed in 1947 and replaced by boxes at Ilford Car Sheds. These have now gone to be replaced with the Liverpool Street resignalling scheme in the 1990s.
Cauliflower Pit or High Road Pit. This lay north of the railway line. John Gibson tried to excavate a complete skeleton of an elephant in 1824 but was unsuccessful. In the 1830s the pit provided the clay for the railway’s bricks. Bones were successfully removed by Gibson with the cooperation of Thomas Curtis, the brickworks owner. The Cauliflower pit was still in operation in 1898.

Riches Road
The Vine Church. This is a church build in 1961 on part of the site of the earlier Vine Church in the High Road sold for redevelopment. The church is now part of the Vine United Reformed Church.

Stanley Road
127-129 Firmco. Firmin House. Refurbishment and construction specialist company.

Sunnyside Road
101 currently a clothing factory this has been an engineering works and a laundry

Sylvan Road
Redbridge Foyer ATP Group Partnership for East Thames Housing designed to provide small flats and an integrated centre for disadvantaged young people.  Similarly lively ranges in yellow brick with metal-clad upper storeys.  Turreted stair tower.
Bus stand. This appears to be on the site of Tyne Hall, a gentleman’s house dating from at least the early 19th and demolished after 1940.  Residents included, in the 1860s, and enthusiast for silk worm culture. It appears to also have been used as a school.

Thompson Close
Redbridge Enterprise Centre.

Winston Way
Relief road built in 1985.

Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield.
British History On line Web site.
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
English Heritage. Web site.
Field. London Place Names
Gordon Infants School. Web site
Ilford Catholic Club. Web site
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
London Railway Record.
London Tigers. Web site
Nature Conservation in Barking and Dagenham
St.Mary’s Ilford. Web site
Unitarian History. Web site
Victoria County History. Essex
Walford. Village London.

Saturday, 16 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. Great Ilford

River Roding
The Roding flows southwards and is joined by the Aldersbrook from the west

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Ilford - and on to Shenfield
The Great Eastern Railway running north eastwards from Manor Park Station arrives at Ilford and onwards.

Post to the north Valentines
Post to the west Aldersbrook
Post to the south Little Ilford
Post to the east Ilford

Albert Road
St Alban’s Church. A brick Gothic church by J.E.K. and J.P. Cutts. The first church built for Ilford's rapidly growing suburbs between 1892 and 1912, and one of the Bishop of St Alban’s ‘London-over-the-border' churches.  It was built in 1906 to replace a temporary building.  It contains a hexagonal pulpit from 1700, given by All Souls Oxford in 1949.
52-6 Ilford Islamic Centre and Mosque.  It has been on this site since 1977. Built in red brick, with tall arches
Oakfield Lodge. Built 1983 by Redbridge Architects Dept, project architect: Norman Turner.  It is a care home originally built for disabled children.  Single-storey pavilions, grouped around courts, in brick

Audrey Road
2-4 Church of the Latter Day Saints

Balfour Road
Part of Ilford Lodge Estate. This 19th area had been part of the Valentines estate. In 1797-8 it was sold separately. In 1882 it was acquired for building by the IIford Land Co. and bought, by James W. Hobbs, a Croydon builder associated with Jabez Balfour – after whom the road is named. When his Liberator Building Society collapsed in 1892, Hobbs was tried for fraud and was sentenced. The IIford Lodge Estate was later sold.
2-4 Wilkinson store. They sell ‘Home Goods’ in a building previously used by Woolworths but built for CandA on the site of the Ilford Super Cinema.  It has an angled corner tower faced with fluted panels.  .
Ilford Super Cinema was opened in 1922, by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. and designed by William E. Trent with Val Prince for the inside. It showed film and variety performances. It was taken over by Provincial Cinematograph Theatres in 1924 and by Gaumont British Cinemas in 1929. It had a Compton 3Manual/8Ranks organ and a popular restaurant. In 1945 a V2 damaged the rear of the cinema and the roof collapsed.  Two usherettes were killed and the building was unsafe and boarded up. It was finally demolished in 1959.
112 Ilford Muslim Society. This was formed in 1978. Masjid-E-Da'watul Islam, also known as Balfour Road Mosque

Barking Relief Road
This is part of the A406, North Circular Road. The background to it is fairly checkered involving various, since cancelled, ringway plans. This eastern section was part of proposed Ringway 2. This was originally planned as a motorway, the M15, but although it was cancelled part of its route was built in the 1980s as an extension of the A406.

Chadwick Road
1 I-Scene Leisure Complex. This includes the Cineworld Ilford which opened in 2002.
Telephone Exchange.  This was built in 1911 by Edward of H.M. Office of Works.
2 Royal Mail Sorting Office and Post Office

Chapel Road
This bypass road is made up of bits of a number of older roads, including Ilford Lane
1 Black Horse. This closed in 2012 and is now a betting shop. The original pub dated from at least the 1870s but this was a post war rebuild.
Ilford Hippodrome.  When this was extant it was on Ilford Lane at the corner of High Road – the site is now in Chapel Road and was partly covered by the now defunct Black Horse  The Hippodrome opened in 1909 was built for Walter Gibbons chain; London Theatres of Variety Ltd. It had a terra-cotta frontage along Ilford Lane in a Moorish style. Above the entrance was a minaret. Inside the ceiling was said to resemble the Palace of Versailles. It was a playhouse and a variety theatre and able to screen films from the start. In the 1930’s it became part of Metropolitan and Provincial Cinematograph Theatres Ltd. With a Western Electric sound system. Many top artistes of the day appeared here including Max Miller, Flanagan & Allen, Gracie Fields, Vera Lynn, George Formby etc.  In 1945 during the Lew Grade produced "Robinson Crusoe" a V2 rocket fell behind theatre, killing 15 and demolished the dressing rooms.  The orchestra played on and the audience left. Two days later, the roof collapsed. The ruins were demolished in 1957, after some of the facade fell onto a trolleybus. Offices and shops were later built here.
19-20 Maguire’s Irish Bar

Clements Lane
Melcombe Lodge 18th house
Pioneer Market.  This stood on the corner of Clements Lane and Ilford Lane. It was a prototype shopping mall, built in the 1920 with a maze of corridors, and individual shops. Said to be art deco but now demolished.

Clements Road
Until 1814 this was part of Green Lane with Potato and onion fields up to the 1840s.
Clements. The Clements estate was developed in the early 19th and in 1847 covered an area from Ilford Lane. A John Clement had been here in 1456. By 1878 the 56- acre estate was mortgaged, and put up for sale. It was mainly built up in the next 20 years.  Some was built by Withers of Ilford Hall and some by Cameron Corbett.
Clements Farm. This farm lay roughly on the site of the current leisure centre.
Brickfield. In the early 19th there were several brickfields in this area.  One of these belonged to John Scrafton Thompson and was part of the Clements estate.
IScene Leisure Complex is situated on Clements Road, Ilford. The scheme houses an 11 screen Cineworld cinema, restaurants, hotel and a gym
9 Post Office
15 Salvation Army Hall. The Salvation Army had a hall behind High Road by 1887. They were active in the 1890s and about 1901 opened the present hall.
Spiritualist church.  In 1903 the Ilford Spiritualists were met in Clock House Hall. Their present church in Clements Road was licensed in 1933 and visited by Conan Doyle. Ilford Spiritualist Church is now in the High Road
Central Library.  This was opened in 1986 and was designed by D.J. & H T. Lawrence, Borough Architects.  It is an island site with a copper-clad roof. On h stairs is abstract stained glass by Goddard and Gibbs.
Redbridge Museum. This is on the second floor of the library.
Virgin Active Health Club. This has now been taken over by Nuffield.
London Ilford Travelodge
Elim Four Square Tabernacle.  This is recorded from 1926. This has more recently been the City Gates Centre and has been demolished.
City Gates Church building. The Church began as a tin shack in the 1930’s ad has since had a building in the High Road. In 2009, planning permission was granted for a new 1,000 seat, Worship Centre. This fell down while under construction in January 2012

Clements Lane
Clements Court flats
1-4 Clements Yard, Clements farm cottages demolished in the 1930s for a car park for the Hippodrome. Now part of Clements Court site. They appear to have been part of an older Clements farmhouse converted into four cottages. This building had an oak and hornbeam frame, dating from the 16th. There were indications of Tudor additions to an earlier building.

Cleveland Road
Ilford Health Centre. Built in 1989 by Avanti Architects on a cruciform plan with steel frame.
Cleveland Road Board School. This was opened in 1896 designed by Charles Dawson. It was originally a county junior and infants' schools. It was the largest erected by the school board and in 1931 It was re-organized for juniors and infants – and it remains as two separate schools.
Ilford Hindu Centre. This was originally the Friends Meeting House of 1908 designed by Charles Dawson. The Ilford Friends' Meeting was formed in 1906 in a temporary building and a permanent meeting house was erected later

Coventry Road
Ilford Federation Synagogue. It was founded in 1927 but has now moved to the Gants Hill area, although some commemorative plaques remain on the building.
2-8 Ilford Ursuline Preparatory School. Private Roman Catholic school. This originated in 1889 when two Ursuline Sisters who were teaching locally were asked by the priest at St Peter and St. Paul, for help in establishing a secondary school.  In 1903 "Hainault", a house in Cranbrook Road was rented and opened as a school. In 1906 Heathfield, the adjacent house, was bought. In 1936 no.2 was bought to use as a primary school.
6 this was bought during the second world war as a home for the nuns teaching at the school and thus became the Ursuline Convent.  There was some bomb damage.  These building are now part of the school.
10 this remains as a small Ursuline convent.

Cranbrook Road
Clock Tower - this stood in the 1920s at the bottom of Cranbrook Road on the area known as the Broadway. It had been donated by MP Peter Griggs. It was removed in the 1930s and taken to South Park.
Ilford Station.  This now stands with the main entrance in Cranbrook Road – this part of the road was once called Station Road. It was opened in 1839 by the Eastern Counties Railway on what has become the Great Eastern Main Line. It lies between Seven Kings and Manor Park. The line was built from Mile End in 1838 but not opened until works at Romford finished. The main building is thought to date from the 1839 opening.  It originally had only two platforms but in 1894 the station was rebuilt with guarantees by developer Corbett, as part of the promotion for the Grange housing estate.  From 1903 to 1947 Great Eastern trains also ran from here to Woodford via the Fairlop Loop which was transferred to London Transport and is now part of the Central line. It was rebuilt again in the 1980s. There are five platforms all below street level: two "up" to Liverpool Street and two "down” plus a bay for services starting here. Two other Platforms are disused. The platforms built in the 1890s have distinctive GER ironwork brackets to the awnings. In 1911 a bridge was built across the platforms to facilitate the transfer of milk churns and the bridge was later used for parcels. It was demolished in the 1980s.
28-32 Santander Bank. This is a corner block with a dome, with a great deal of carved decoration of fruit. It was built 1900 with for the National Provincial Bank.
37 Jonos Bar. Free house pub
46 Redeemed Church of God, Embassy of Faith, with shops on the ground floor. This was originally West's department store.  It has giant columns and a classical appearance.
45 Lloyds Bank with a curved front Portland Stone by Johnson and Astbury, built in 1932.  This appears to be closed
47 Punjab National Bank
51-71 this is the site of Langsett where the Ilford Ltd Photographic business began, as Britannia Works, in 1879 Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer from  Peckham was experimenting with the production of the new gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He went to Ilford to manufacture these because of the clean air. He renamed Langsett as 'Britannia Works', and he and his wife began to produce the plates. Later he rented building elsewhere and the Ilford factory and business grew - however the emulsion still prepared with great secrecy at the Britannia Works.
51-71 Burnes furniture store was bought by Chiesmans, who owned a chain of drapery stores. Chiesmans were bought out by the House of Frazer group in 1976.
55-57 East Side Bar
60-64 Fairheads Department Store. Drapers shop which closed in 2008 after trading for 100 years
100 British Heart Foundation shop. This is on the site of a Baptist church opened in 1899 on a site bought eight years earlier by the High Road Baptists, but conveyed to the London Baptist Association. Second World War incendiary bombs damaged the building.
Cranbrook Lodge. This was a large house once known as Cranbrook Cottage. The site had been part of Rayhouse estate until 1806. The house, built before 1835, became Cranbrook College, a private school for boys. The house was demolished in 1923 when new college buildings were put up.
Ursuline Convent School. The school now based in Coventry Road began in two houses here – Hainault and Heathfield – the sites of which are now part of the school.
109-127 Saravana Bhavan in what was previously Yates Wine Lodge
114-116 The Great Spoon of Ilford. This is a Wetherspoon's pub. The name is about the Elizabethan actor, Will Kemp, who danced his way from Norwich to London in 1600. He stopped in Ilford for a 'spoon' of ale.
180 Army Careers Office. This has now closed.
182 Venue 3. This is what was the Cranbrook pub.

Granville Road
Kings Church. This was built as the church hall for St Clements Church and called Cecil Hall.  It was built in 1907 and designed by C.J.Dawson. It was laid out with classrooms, games rooms and a first floor hall. It has since become an evangelical church called variously Kings Church and Jubilee Church.
13 Indigo Project. This is a Barnardo’s charity for holiday activity for special needs children.  Site of the vicarage for St.Clement’s church.

High Road
The road is part of the London to Colchester Road Turnpike of 1721 run by the Middlesex and Essex turnpike Trust. It was pedestrianised in 1987 after the opening of the ring road.
96-98 the Cinema DeLuxe was opened in 1911 and made up of two shops. It closed in around 1926, and went back to being a shop.
Clements Mansion. This stood on the High Street roughly at the west side of the corner with Clements Road.
Methodist church. The (Wesleyan) Methodist church began in 1883. Land was bought in and iron building put up in 1884, followed by a permanent church in 1895 A school hall was later added. In 1959 the members joined with the Ilford Lane Methodist church, and in 1961 moved into a new building in Ilford Lane. The High Road church was demolished. It was on the corner of Clements Road – somewhere round the site of Clements Mansion.
58 Shop built for Burton’s menswear in the early 1930s. It has a grey stone facade and Deco styling of the house. In other use
93 Barclays Bank - this is site of The White Horse pub which closed in 1959
109 site of The Angel. This was a former coaching inn dating from at least the late 18th which closed in the 1980s. The premises became a Burger bar and later a clothes shop. A replacement Angel was built at the back - but that also changed its name.
120 Burton’s store of 1930, streamlined Moderne in white faience,
Ilford Hall. This was on the corner with Hainault Street.  It was a 19th house used as a girl’s school by 1898. It was later used by Ilford Urban District Council for meetings and demolished in 1901. The site is now shops.
128-142 Town Hall for the new Ilford Urban District Council. Built in 1899-1901 by Ben Woollard in Bath stone following a competition.  With additions done in 1931-3 by L.E.J.Reynolds, with steel frame with Bath stone façade. The building is in two halves – one ceremonial and one for business and all were connected by means of a speaking tube. Inside is an elliptical lobby with curved doors and a monumental stair to the old council chamber and committee rooms. There is also a back staircase with a tiled dado.Council Chamber. This has been redone but much remains. Some seating is said to be from former the Ilford Council, and some from Wanstead and Woodbridge.  There is walnut panelling and, in the centre of the floor, a parquetry sunburst pattern by Hollis Bros. in walnut, and oak.Mayor's Parlour. This has a bow window and a plaster ceiling, by Waring & Gillow. Refreshment Room called the Lambourne Room, with Deco treatment. Bronze Boer war memorial over inner doors. It is signed by Sterling Dudley and E. Hirch.Members' Room. Oak-panelled. Public Hall. This was built for 700 people and is a, rectangular, space. There is a balcony and a stage with proscenium arch. In 1931-3 orchestra pit was added
193-207 Harrison Gibson’s furniture store. John Harrison Gibson opened his first store in Ilford 1902 and made furniture to a high standard.  The store was badly damaged by fire in 1959 and replaced by a building by Forrest and Barber with a night club on the top floor. The store closed in 2004 and the building is in other use.

Ilford Hill
Ilford Bridge. This carries the main road from London to Colchester. The road crossing two bridges: one over the Aldersbrook and over the Roding with a causeway between them. They were called collectively 'Ilford Bridge'. In the middle ages it was maintained by a hermit who lived alongside and used donations from travellers. The medieval Roding Bridge was structure with three 13th pointed arches. In the late 16th the bridges were in such disrepair that Quarter Sessions were urged to repair them at the cost of the City of London. In 1759-64 the larger bridge was rebuilt in brick and was replaced in 1904. The bridge was the limit of commercial navigation on the Roding from 1765.
Aldersbrook bridge – this as described in 1858 as 'an ancient iron structure'. Aldersbrook diverted to join the Roding 100 yards. North of the new bridge and now runs parallel with Romford Road and the bridge was removed.
Ilford House Academy. School on the site of Ilford’s first school. The Academy was 1824-1870.
2-4 Beckett’s House. Office block from the early 1990s housing several NHS departments.
11 Mill House. BT building. This has 11 floors and was built in 2006.
16 Rose and Crown. This is one of several inns which were established where the Roman Road crossed the Roding and continued to Colchester.  This was the nearest to the river. The pub was remodelled in 1897 to the designs of C Foulsham and H Riches.  The elevation to Ilford Hill is almost unchanged from that date.  It has been closed for some years. 16 Rose and Crown.  The pub name symbolises the union of York and Lancaster in the marriage of Henry VI and Elizabeth of York
28 Roller skating rink which opened in 1909 and was 22,000 feet square feet. It could take 1,000 skaters and 2,000 spectators. It was used for roller hockey – and hosted the international championships and had the world’s top team. In 1917 During the Great War the site was used by Oakley Ltd made three Sopwith Triplanes there. After the war it was used as a Whist Drive Hall, and demolished 1939-1947.
39 Peachy House flats. This is a 19-storey former office building called the iCon Building, now converted to flats. London St. Andrews College – another private business school.
40 old Police Station now in other use. Built in 1906 by John Butler in red brick.
42 Conservative Club.  Built in 1930. The Conservative - or the Constitutional – Club was formed about 1881, and previously use the old parsonage house attached to the hospital.
48 Chaplains House to the Hospital.
4a The Hospital - almshouses  This is the Hospital of St Mary and St Thomas of Canterbury lying behind a high brick wall, it is the oldest building in the London Borough of Redbridge. It now consists of the Chapel plus almshouses on each side which were rebuilt to allow for road widening by F.W Speaight with W.J. Kieffer and H.S. Fleming in 1927. They are now converted into modern flats.  It was founded in 1145 by Adelicia Abbess of Barking, as a hospice for 13 aged and infirm men. By 1219 it was admitting lepers. The Abbey of Barking was dissolved in 1539 but the Ilford Hospital Chapel had its own endowments and survived, probably because it was a chapel-of-ease as well as a hospice. It passed into the hands of the Crown who leased the mastership and this passed to a number of local gentry – originally and predominately the Fanshawe family but eventually passed to the Cecils. In 1982 the late Lord Salisbury handed the property to the diocese of Chelmsford and they set up the Abbess Adelicia Charity to take over the administration.
The Chapel was originally dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin. Later Mary Becket became Abbess and she arranged for the name of her brother, Thomas à Becket, to be added to the dedication as St.Thomas. The nave and chancel of the present building were built during the 14th. From the Middle Ages it was used for public worship as well as by the hospital inmates. In the 18th Bamber Gascoyne renovated the ChapelI in 1889-90, when the Lady Chapel, organ loft and vestry were added.  The communion rail is early 20th and is of-wrought iron with concealed gas lighters along it.  The outer windows are by Morris & Co., c. 1891 showing St Valentine, designed by Burne-Jones, in memory of Clement Ingleby of Valentines.  It is still in use as a church.
The Master's house. The Hospital was governed by a Master, appointed by the Abbess, who had large house to the east which was demolished in 1905.  It seems to have been used as a pub called the Green Man.
50 Natwest Bank.  Corner building which has become a landmark.
51 – 69 Valentines. Office block built 1988 formerly used by British Gas – the police are among the current occupants. It replaced the buildings of the Biograph Theatres Ltd which had opened in 1911 and closed in 1921. It was later used as a discotheque and demolished in 1973.
71 Red Lion.  The pub closed in 2005 and now seems to be the If Bar or Lush. It has also been recently called: Lloyds No. 1, Mainstreet, The Greene Castle, Blah-blahs, and the Rat & Carrot. It is a real 18th building but it was altered around.1850. In the 1870s it housed the local fire appliances - Leather hoses, for fire-fighting and in 1884 a fire-escape ladder.
The entrance to Ilford Station was originally at the back of the Red Lion pub. An access road to the station from Ilford Hill is now adapted as the station car park.
Pyruma Works, J.H.Sankey. Pyruma was a plastic fire cement with many industrial and construction applications as well as use as a modelling clay.

Ilford Lane
An old main road which linked London to Tilbury Fort leaving the Colchester road here and running south to Barking. It was at one time called Barking Lane.
Methodist church. A dispute among local Methodist church - the Reform controversy of 1849–51 - led to the establishment of a United Methodist Free chapel here and a church was built in 1867. In 1902 a new church was built. Designed by F. W.Dixon. The old church was used as a Sunday school until 1932 when a new hall was built. The church was bombing in the Second World War.  The congregation then joined with a Methodist church needing in the High Road and in 1961 the current church was built here on Ilford Lane.
Hall. This was built as a Sunday school in 1932 to replace a previous building.
Uphall Pit. The site of the Uphall Pit was marked by a bronze plaque on the front wall of the Methodist Church Hall erected by the Borough Council in 1951 for the Festival of Britain. this was stolen and has been replaced. The Pit was between here and the Roding and produced fossils as from 1812. Bones were found at a depth of about 5 metres and it was the site of the discovery of the skull of the ‘Ilford mammoth’ in 1863 regarded as the most complete mammoth skull ever found in Britain. Another find in 1865 was the complete skull of a woolly rhinoceros and also the complete and perfect tusk of a very young elephant.
Empire Kinema. This was on the west side of the road north of Audrey Road. It was the first purpose built cinema operated by Alexander Bernstein, founder of the Granada chain. It opened in 1913 and had a stage and dressing rooms. In 1931, it became part of the Ben Jay circuit. In 1940, it was hit by a German incendiary bomb. It was later demolished and is now under the new road layout.
Clements Estate Pit. This was on the east side of Ilford Lane and being worked in 1812. It produced many fossils including two tusks and a mammoth thigh bone. The pit had closed before 1860.

Kenneth More Road
Kenneth More Theatre. Opened in 1974. This is Ilford's civic theatre, named after the actor, Kenneth More. The Studio Theatre is included for experimental work and was re-named the Cowan Studio in 2001. The Theatre has devoted half of its programming to local amateur companies.  It was designed by the Redbridge Architect's Dept project architect: Jack Lewis.  It has a copper-clad auditorium roof and a short fly tower.

Ley Street
The Exchange shopping centre. Set up by Chapman Taylor in 1988-91. It is the main retail shopping mall in the town centre. It has three levels of retail but its lower floor is divided into two separate parts. The entrance from Cranbrook Road is through a gigantic arch. Presented as an Indian temple. There was once a granite floating sphere and a wishing fountain which have gone.
104 Red Cow pub. Closed

Lugg Approach
London Underground Construction Academy. This is at Aldersbrook sidings and provides a training establishment for Crossrail. Opened in 2011.
Bridge over the Aldersbrook built as part of Crossrail.
Aldersbrook House. This was a British Railways staff hostel and training centre. Now gone

Mildmay Road
This is what was Oakfield Road now south of Winston Way with an underpass between
2-4 Mildmay Neighbourhood Learning Centre. The English Academy in Ilford Presbyterian church
Ilford Presbyterian church was set up in 1896, in an iron building. The permanent church was built in 1903. The organ, installed in 1905, had been built in 1820 for the church of St. Mary, Moorfields

Mill Road
South Essex Water Works.  Both The East London and the South Essex Waterworks Companies had powers to supply water to Ilford. Mains were extended to Ilford during the 1870s and 80s and, they divided the district between them, the South Essex Company supplying the eastern part of the area.  Buildings were erected here in 1905 and there was also a high chimney on the site.
Ilford Paper Mill, This business, which gave its name to Mill Street, appears to have been founded by William Simpson and Co., but later passed through the hands of several owners. Paper making was carried out here from c.1862 – c.1923.
Rail bridge over the road and a short siding for local coal merchants. Road under is in a tunnel
Ilford West Junction and signal box. The box closed in 1949.

Moreland Road
Ursuline Academy. This is a Roman Catholic secondary school and sixth form for girls. It was originally Ilford Ursuline High School founded in 1903 by the Ursulines. Beginning in a rented house in Cranbrook Road where two Ursuline nuns taught. The premises expanded and a new school building was erected at the end of the garden facing Morland Road. The pupils moved into the new premises in 1908. Over the years, more buildings were added and a tennis court and an asphalted playground were added to the games facilities in what had been the garden. Under the 1944 Education Act the school acquired Direct Grant status but from 1979 it was necessary for fees to be levied from parents. The secondary school is now a four stream comprehensive Science College. The primary school is in Coventry Road.

Oakfield Road
Fire Station. A volunteer fire-brigade was formed in 1890 and in 1893 a fire-station was built here and a steam fire-engine bought
Central Library.  Built as part of the Town Hall complex 1926-7 by Herbert Shaw, the Borough Engineer.  It is now used as offices.

Park Avenue
St Clements church, site. The church was built between 1889 and 1896 by the Cutts Brothers on land given by Mrs. Clement Ingleby of Valentines. In 1902 it was the main church in place of St.Mary's. It was a gothic style red-brick building and a bell-cote containing one bell. It was demolished in 1977

Riverdene Road
This was previously Uphall Road.

Roden Street
Was previously called Back Lane. In the 17th there were a few houses on the south side
57 Papermakers Arms aka The Sheepwalk Inn.
Mill House, Victor Wharf. This is now a development site but it seems latterly to have been use by waste and scrap dealers. A crane on the wharf was associated with a local brickworks
55 Sainsbury on the Britannia works site
60-70 former Britannia Music site development including 332 residential units in a series of blocks with a 23 storey landmark tower on the corner of Chapel Road and Ilford Hill. BBritannia Music Club (1969-2007) was a British mail-order company owned by PolyGram which sponsored the Brit Awards. The company was acquired by Universal Music Group as part of PolyGram in 1998, and closed in 2007
Britannia Works - Ilford Ltd., The firm which made photographic materials, was founded in 1879 by Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer who was producing gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He came to Ilford because of the clean air and initially operated from a house in Cranbrook Road. He then rented cottages on the Clyde estate, where the Ilford Plate factory and head office were later located, and there the plates were coated and packed.  It became a private limited company in 1891, and in 1898 a public company with a nominal capital of £38,000. In 1906 Col. Ivor Philipps became chairman and remained as such until his death in 1940 and was largely responsible for the progress of the firm. Between 1917 and 1929 Ilford acquired many rival companies paper, sold as 'Ilford P.O.P.', was made by the company from its early days and later the material for films. After the Second World War they extension into foreign markets. By 1954 the company had factories at Ilford, Brentwood, Leyton and Watford. The factor closed in 1976. The company later operated from Cheshire.

Roding River
Recorded as Roding in the 16th which is from Roding in Essex – originally meaning a 'settlement of a man called Hroth’ . Before the 16th it was known as the ‘Hile’ .The river may have started as a melt water channel in the Ice Age. There are signs that it has tended to shift eastwards.  From Ilford Bridge to the branching out of Back River the Roding runs fairly straight, forming the parish boundary throughout.  This suggests that the wall that protects Little Ilford Levels to the west is of ancient origin. The wall against East Ham Marsh was certainly there in the 14th. Recently some of the westward meanders of the Roding have been occluded
Ilford Navigation. In order to facilitate navigation to Ilford from Barking some improvements were made to the river Roding. The navigation ran northwards for just over a mile and a half from Barking to Ilford. It was a successful concern until around the 1920's when traffic declined and It is not known when the last boat traded to Ilford – maybe in the 1930's. Since 1961 there has been a Barking and Ilford Navigation Company

Romford Road
A toll gate stood to the west of Ilford Bridge and a toll house on the northern side of the road survived until 1900 as the Little Wonder Coffee House.

Station Road
This was once Havelock Road but renamed Station Road – the original Station Road s now part of
Cranbrook Lane.
Bodger's department store established in 1890 and rebuilt here in 1914 as an arcade.  The range facing Station Road with a screen of columns.  The end to Cranbrook Road is a rebuilding, with an unattractive sloping corner.

Wellesley Road
Cranbrook Baptist Church

Winston Way
Part of the A118. This new stretch opened in 1985, running south and bypassing the town centre.
Pioneer Point, this replaced Pioneer Market. It consists of two interlinked towers of 31 floors built in 2011 by Empire Property Group.

York Mews
Ilford Station. There was also a rear entrance open peak hours only, from which the London end of the platform can be reached via a footbridge which was rebuilt in 1978.  This was added following an agreement with developer Cameron Corbett.   A booking office here was closed in 1991 and a LNER passimeter removed

Barking and District Historical Society. Web site
Business Cavalcade of London
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
English Heritage. Web site
Essex Journal
Friends of the Earth. Gasworks in London
Ilford Historical Society. Web site
Ilford Recorder. Web site.
Ilford Muslim Society. Web site
James. The Chemical Industry in Essex
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Nature Conservation in Newham
Pevsner and Cherry.  Essex
Sabre Wiki Roaders Digest. Web site
Skyscraper News, Web site
St. Alban’s Church. Web site
Thames Basin Archaeology of Industry Group
Victoria County History. Essex

Friday, 8 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Cann Hall

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford
The railway running from Maryland Station goes north eastwards

Post to the south Stratford
Post to the north Leytonstone
Post to the eadt Forest Gate

Albert Square
43a this is now a housing area called Wilberforce Walk. It is on the site of Albert Cooperage Ltd. Who were a barrel manufacturing firm also making steel drums

Ash Road
This was originally Albert Road
Albert Works. In the 1920s this was A.D.Harris who made advertising tapes and string.  The site is earlier marked as a saw mill.  It was roughly on the site of today’s Carroll Close.
39 and 43 Chatsworth Road, Globe Foundry Stratford Ltd mechanical engineers.
Bramall Close
14 this was The Steamship pub, Courage house which was there before 1861 and closed in around 2002.  It is now a chicken shop.

Buckingham Road
Hibiscus Community Centre. This building was a Sunday School for the Strict Baptist Church in Gurney Road. It was built in 1903 and was used for services when the church was bombed during the Second World War. It is now in use as a community centre largely for Caribbean elders but is also used by the Moravian Church.
Jewish Cemetery. This is contiguous with West Ham Cemetery and founded in the same year. It was Founded in 1857 on land bought from Banker, Samuel Gurney, and Three-fifths of the ground opened by the New Synagogue, was subsequently conveyed to the Great Synagogue. At the north end of the cemetery, remains were reinterred from the Old Jewish Cemetery in Hoxton Street in 1960. It contains 4 Commonwealth burials of the Great War and 1 of the Second World War. There is also 1 German soldier and 2 interned German civilian burials.  It also contains the grave of Cadeluc Jacobson, of Hanover, a Jewish survivor of the Battle of Waterloo. The Rothschild Mausoleum was erected for Evelina de Rothschild in 1866 by her husband after she had died in childbirth.  It is a domed building by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt.  The original 1874 a prayer hall, has been demolished

Buxton Road
Maryland Primary School. The School was opened here in 1968.  The original Maryland School had been at Maryland  Point. It was originally two separate schools – Infants and Juniors. In 1990 the two schools joined to become Maryland Primary School

Cann Hall Road
Cann Hall. The name appears on maps of the 1880s. Earlier ‘Cann Halle’ and ‘Canhall alias Cannon Hall’ . It refers to land ownership before the reformation by the canons of Holy Trinity Priory within Aldgate; a 12th Augustinian foundation. The hall and farm buildings were demolished in the late 19th
145 Colegrave Arms. This has now been converted into a mosque. It closed as a pub in 2010. This was a beer house before 1869 but had a full licence in 1886 and the pub was a Savills Brewery, Stratford, house later becoming Charrington’s.  It kept its 1950s decor and three-bar layout until closure. The Cann Hall and Deen Education Trust bought it for a mosque and community centre.
Cann Hall and Harrow Green Baptist church. In 1878 a farmer in Cann Hall Lane allowed his workers to meet in his Barn for non-conformist worship.  They, became known as the Christian Band. they bought land, and built a Church, which opened in June1887 as Cann Hall Baptist Church.  A group left to become Harrow Green Baptist Church, but in 1976, they joined once more

Carolina Close
Housing on the old distillery site

Cemetery Road
12 Traveller’s Rest. This pub is now housing
West Ham Cemetery. West Ham Burial Board was set up purchased land for its new cemetery in 1857 from Samuel Gurney. It was extended to its current size in 1871. In order to keep costs down the layout is a simple grid plan, and gravestones are set among grass. There is a Gothic ragstone chapel by T E Knightly but the non-conformist chapel has gone.  There is a mock-Tudor lodge just inside the entrance gates. There are memorials to those who died in the sinking of the Princess Alice in 1878, and to firemen in the Silvertown Explosion of 1917. There are 136 Commonwealth military burials from Great War, 30 of them in the "Soldiers' Circle," on which a War Cross is erected. There are 78 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War and for each of the wars there is a Screen Wall with the names of those whose graves are not marked by headstones. there are a lot of mature trees, mostly common lime.

Chatsworth Road
27 Chatsworth Arms Pub. This pub was rebuilt after the Second World War  and closed in 2002 - it is now a community resource centre.
43 and 39 Ash Road Globe Foundry Stratford Ltd mechanical engineers. On site here before 1912.  It was owned and started by William Harris and closed around 1954. There is now housing on the site.
Confectionery factory

Earlham Grove
One of the streets laid out on the Gurney Estate, c. 1870-90.
Earlham Primary School. This was opened in 1951

Forest Lane
Whitechapel Union School. In 1854 Whitechapel Union bought land here for a school – it has been claimed that this was Woodgrange Manor, which had been bought in 1847 by Samuel Gurney and conveyed the land to the Whitechapel Board in 1852. It may however have been farmland. In 1890 there were 542 children there, In 1889 25 boys were suffocated in their beds , in a fire because they were locked in their dormitories. In 1897 the Whitechapel Union dissolved the Forest Gate School and Poplar Guardians partnership but Poplar Guardians used the school for destitute children until 1908 when it became part of the Poplar Union Workhouse.  There had been three more incidents in which 40 children died. West Ham Union bought the school in 1913 and it became their workhouse infirmary.
Forest Gate Hospital. This was originally the Forest Gate Industrial School.  In 1911 the building was bought by West Ham Union workhouse  and  re-opened as the Forest Gate Sick Home – with some beds for mentally handicapped people.  In 1930 it was taken over by West Ham Borough Council and The main buildings became the Forest Gate Hospital, with beds for mental patients, chronic sick, and a maternity unit.  the Hospital had direct hits from bombs in 1940 and many patients were evacuated to South Ockendon Colony In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS and Further maternity wards were built in 1950.  In 1974 it was renamed the Newham Maternity Hospital. It closed in 1985. The original building faces Forest Lane it was E-plan with a square porch beneath a shallow bow window but now only the facade remains and houses have been built on the site.  The Lodge survives and is used community activities.  Gladys Dimson House is one of the original maternity buildings now converted to housing. most of the site was developed as Forest Lane Park between 1991 and 1994.
Gladys Dimson House – this was the Forest Gate Industrial School and then the main block for the Hospital. It is now housing.   It has a mid-19th institutional appearance, with the central block raised to form a tower
Industrial School infirmary. This is now housing
Lodge. At the entrance to the park
The Nurse. This is a statue made of oak, which stands by the pond - a reminder that the site used to be a hospital.
Forest Lane Park. The park surrounds the former Industrial School.  This is a new park built on the site of the hospital which became redundant in 1984. The facade of the original building was retained and the park developed by Newham Council from 1991 with a lake, dipping pond, raised bed garden area, a small orchard with pear and cherry trees, woodland to the east, and a wildflower meadow. There are two sculptures by Helen Stylianides: 'Pulse of Life' and 'Guardian' carved from oak donated by Epping Forest

Gurney Road
Maryland Early Years Centre.  This is part of Maryland Primary School in a translucent building on a timber frame. so children can see the nuts and bolts of the building.
Stratford Strict Baptist Church.  This opened in 1870, when a group led by James Mortar began to meet. In 1882, an iron church was built in Gurney Road. A permanent church was built, probably by Mortar, in 1885. It is now Grace Baptist Church.

Idmiston Road
Stratford Spiritualist Church (SNU). This was on the corner with Alfred Road and seems to have been demolished.

Janson Road
2 Mattesson Meats. Moved here in 1968. From the start there were complaints of smells. They also had a factory in the area in Manor Road, and are now based in Egham as part of Kerry Foods. The firm was founded in 1947 by Richard Mattes from a Rhineland sausage-making family. The company developed rapidly and Mattessons introduced many new products into Britain, the first pre-packed sliced meat for the nation in 1970 and the UK’s first pâté in 1971.
Janson Close. Local authority tower block, early 1960s
Seventh Day Adventist Church in what was St. Columba’s Church hall. The hall dated from 1898 and was designed by E.P.Warren..
31 Canons Court – site of St.Columba’s church. The church was, in Ravenstone Road – this road has gone and the area has been realigned but the church stood in a V the apex of which was a junction where Ravenstone Road met Devonshire Road and Janson Road. It had originated as an iron mission church under Holy Trinity church which opened in 1888. A permanent church which opened in 1894 was designed by E. P. Warren – with some later additions funded by the Misses Nutter. The church
was bombed in 1944 and remained as a ruin until demolished in the early 1950s. The site is now flats.
Leytonstone High Road
245 Thatched House Pub. This pub was also named All Seasons. It is now a betting shop
321 The Click. a modern movement style oval building By Van Heyningen & Howard, 2001 in White render windows.  Originally used as an internet cafe it is now in other use.
Mosaic sign by Stewart Hale.
345 The Halfway House Pub. This pub was on site before 1872 and originally was a Mann, Crossman & Paulin house. It was a free house from 1997 and was named The Croppy Acre.  Following police raids it closed in 2005.  It is now a shop

Leytonstone Road
100 this was Bedwell’s print works. Now a supermarket
Imperial Picture Palace. The Cinema was in a shopping and was converted from one of them by E.J. Jenner in 1910. It was closed in 1923 and later demolished. Henniker Point is now on the site.
Henniker Point. 23 storey tower block. It is 64m tall and was built 1969.
84-90 Dance Studio, gym and snooker club above shops.
83 Tavern Bar. This is also called The Glitter Ball. It was once the Royal Oak Pub and dates from at least the 1840s
82 Essex Arms Pub. This is now a shop
77 a cinema on this site was converted from a shop. It opened before 1909, and closed by 1910.
71 Marshall Taplow, Whitehall Distillery. This whisky distillery had been taken over by Saville Brothers of the Stratford Brewery in 1893 and with them became a subsidiary of Charringtons in the 1920s. A new head office was built here in the 1960s. What remains now are some arcaded walls.
46-48 A previous building on this site was the Royal Hotel. It is currently a vehicle electrical works
16 Yorkshire Grey. This pub was established before 1828 and was a Charrington’s house.   It was later called The Charleston.  It closed in the late 1990s and was demolished in 2005
11 The Hope Pub. The pub was also called Chevy Chase and closed in 2010.

Maryland Park
St Francis Catholic Primary School. In 1970 St. Patrick's School and St. Vincent's School moved to Maryland Park and were amalgamated in 1992 to become St. Francis Catholic Voluntary Aided Primary School.

Maryland Square
Tullet Tomlin and Co. Mineral Water Manufacturers from 1908.  

Maryland Street
Stratford Brewery. Savill Brothers ran this Brewery from 1856, becoming a limited company in 1893.  They were taken over by Charringtons in 1925.
Linfoot Cooper Ltd. colour manufacturers were on site here 1934-37.  They had originated in Bradford and Manchester making colours for the rubber industry.
J. W. & T.A. Smith, colour and pigment manufacturers (lead products department) Based at Imperial Colour Works in Old Ford Road and in Maryland Street 1938-63.  The company was owned by Burrells and a Mr. Burrel was their managing director.
SCC Colours 1964-76. This pigment company was owned by Burrells
Burrells Colour Works. The buildings of the Stratford Brewery were taken over by Burrells, paint manufacturers of West Ferry Road from 1977 as part of their expansion programme. Some colours were thereafter made in Stratford.

Odessa Road
Odessa Road School. In 1874 a Board School was built in Odessa Road. In 1945 the school was reorganised, for mixed juniors and infants. The site is now housing.

Ramsay Road
Church of Jesus Christ Apostolic. In an 1888 iron building

St James Road
St.James Church. This originated about 1870, as an iron building. A permanent church was completed in 1882. The organ came from the church of St. Matthew, Friday Street and is said to have been an 18th instrument by George England. The church was demolished in 1964. There is however a church building on the site now.

Thorogood Gardens
Housing on the site of Maryland Works. This – one of several ‘Maryland Works; in the area - appears to be the works of building and engineering contractors J.T.Luton & Sons, originating in 1897 as A.G.Luton. The company appears to have moved to Snaresbrook and been wound up in 2000.

Tower Hamlets Road
83 Tower Hamlets Arms. This dated from at least the 1870s and is now closed and converted to flats.
112 block of flats – assume this is a building connected with Forest Gate Hospital or the industrial school which preceded it. Dates from the 1890s and clearly had a large painted sign on the south facing wall.
Tents and Nissen huts. Maps post Second World War show that housing had gone from much of the road. This seems to have been replaced by temporary accommodation for Italian and German prisoners of war.

Worsley Road,
Jenny Hammond Primary School. Board School of 1882 on a half-H plan Built by Wanstead School Board. Jenny Hammond was Mayor of Leyton 1942-43. She was an active councillor for 35 years and campaigned for just causes throughout her life

Cann Hall and Harrow Green Baptist Church. Web site.
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
East London History Society Newsletter
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Newham. Web site
London Borough of Waltham Forest. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Maryland Primary School. Web site
Nature Conservation in  Newham
Victoria County History. Leytonstone
Walford. Highgate to the Lea

Monday, 4 August 2014

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Stratford

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford
The Great Eastern Railway from Stratford Station runs north eastwards through Maryland Station and onwards

Post to the west Stratford
Post to the north Cann Hall

Bryant Street
Bryant Street Methodist Church and Community Centre. The church began in 1884 when a mission was set up following a visit by Moody and Sankey. About 300 men formed the Mizpah band, and with the Young Men's Christian Association built a hall on a site given by a Miss Eccles. This was taken over in 1934 by the Methodist Church but in 1944 the Church, Conference Hall and Y.M.C.A were destroyed by bombing. The main site is now occupied by the Police Station. All that remained is the Main Hall, with a memorial plaque to the dead of the Great War – and that still stands. It had been a hospital in the Great War and became the church after the bombing. In 1964 a new church with ancillary buildings and a hostel were built. However membership declined and money was scarce. Wesley House was set up as a student hostel in 1965/66.  A community project was set up in 1977 and the church was a pioneer in the Night Shelter movement, for the homeless.

Carnarvon Road
50 Stratford Vicarage
Carter Patterson’s Depot at the Romford Road end of the road on the east side from the 1920s until at least the mid-1960s.
Stratford Hall. This 19th house stood on the corner with Romford Road. It was demolished in 1921.  A summerhouse in the garden may have been older

Cedars Road
Radha Krishna Temple. This is in a series of buildings which are partly a converted chapel. 33 The Centre was founded in 1967 to provide a Hindu Religious, philosophical and cultural Centre. The presiding deity is Radha Krishna but other deities of Lakshmi Narayan, Durga Mata, Ram Darbar, Holy Shiv-Ling, Shri Ganesha ji, Baba Balak Nath and Hanuman ji have also be established.
University of East London. Part of the university complex dominates this small road. It is on the site of the barracks which fronted onto The Green

Deanery Road
System House. Built in 1910 as public offices by John Morley. Built for Customs and Excise and became the local Inland Revenue office. This is now offices for local organizations.
2a Lyon House. Physiotherapy and midwifery centre. Pevsner says it looks like a prefab canteen.  In the past used by WRVS.
22 Newtec, an education and training institute for women which continues the tradition of educational establishments in the area. Its present form results from the extension and re-cladding of a 1960’s block. It was carried out in1994-6 to a design by Cazenove Architects Cooperative. Walls faced by plywood panels sit within an exposed timber frame. The taller block at the east end is covered by a curved stainless steel roof. This also houses a Children’s Centre
Trade School. This was a municipal technical college which opened in 1898.  In 1936 it opened a trade school for girls in Deanery Road and a brass plate describes its opening. It was rebuilt in 1949 as the West Ham technical school or girls.This was renamed Deanery grammar school in1 959, and in 1961 amalgamated with Stratford Green girls secondary modern school to form Deanery High School.
Stratford Green Secondary School. Water Lane board school, Stratford, was opened in 1897 and was reorganised in 1945 as a secondary modern school renamed Stratford Green School in 1949. Stratford Green boys’ school moved in 1958 and Stratford Green girls’ school remained in Water Lane and in 1961 amalgamated with the adjoining Deanery grammar school to form Deanery high school.
Sarah Bonnel School. This began as a charity school in 1777, after Sarah Bonnell left £3,500 for a school for poor girls in West Ham. The first school was in a building opposite West Ham Church and called Mrs. Bonnell's School. By 1834, there were 140 pupils and the school continued to expand. In 1873 the name was changed to West Ham High School for Girls and it also moved to West Ham Lane as an independent, fee-paying school which also took junior boys, in 1905 it moved to a large, building in The Grove and ceased to be independent. In 1944 became again Sarah Bonnell Grammar School and moved, this time to St. George's Road, Forest Gate.  In 1972 it became comprehensive as Sarah Bonnell Comprehensive School and moved to Deanery Road, in buildings that previously called Deanery High School for Girls and Stratford Green Secondary School. In 1993, the Technology Village was opened by The Prince of Wales.  Since 2003 it has been a Language College, and continues to maintain the links with Sarah Bonnell's endowment

Dormer Close
Built on the gardens of what was Stratford Vicarage
Park Community Centre

Edward Temme Avenue
Edward Temme was born in Stratford and was the first man to swim the channel in both directions

Evesham Road
Gladstone Hall. HQ of West Area Newham Scout Group.

Grove Crescent road
St. Francis of Assisi. This was originally the church of St. Vincent de Paul opened in 1868, with a school-hall below., said to be by architect EW Pugin but this is now thought to be a mistake.  It has a classical brick façade with stucco centre brought forward and two towers. In 1873 it was taken over by the Franciscan Friars Minor who changed the name and enlarged it. The 1931 sanctuary 1931 has 16th painting of St Francis by Bartolommeo Carducci Looted from church in Spain by Napoleon and brought to England and later loaned to the church. A new sanctuary was added in 1931 and in 1978 the sacristy was adapted to serve as a weekday chapel. The carved and painted Stations of the Cross date from 1932.
Jewson store. Site of congregational chapel. This originated in 1861, when an existing congregation planned a new church here but then withdrew. The scheme continued under William Settles, and a church was built in 1866. It was called 'Settles ‘Folly', but flourished. And Missions were opened. By 1941the congregation had dwindled and the main building was abandoned. In 1948 it was sold and became a furniture factory, but down in 1952, and demolished.

Knox Road
The Gurney School. A school for children unable to attend ordinary school for mental or physical was opened by the council in 1920. In 1949 it was renamed The Gurney School. It was designed for open air teaching, and in 1925 the Crosby Road open air school was opened on the same site for delicate girls and in 1932 it also took boys. It was closed in 1946 and all delicate children sent to Fyfield.

Leytonstone Road
This area first developed as Maryland Point, described by Defoe as new' in the 1720s.
Police Horse Patrol Office. In the early 19th this was on the site later used by the church.
Trinity church. This stood on the north east corner with Forest Road and was founded in 1863 by Andrew Black, of the United Presbyterian Church. It was a brick and stone Gothic.  From 1906 the church was declining, and in 1941 it was closed. The building became a factory and burnt down in 1953. A tower of flats and shops was built on the site in 1963
Church hall built in 1864 and survived after the church burnt down.
Sewer Vent Column. Large and ornamental; made by McFarlane, Saracen Foundry, Glasgow.
Time Spiral. This was originally to the alighted to the west of the Airy Meridian. It is by Malcolm Robertson as a focal point at the northern end of Stratford Interchange.  The spiral was conceived around the theme of travel. The clock is central and originally proposed seating was replaced with mosaic designs showing the points of the compass and signs of the zodiac. It was moved here in 2010 because of the need for pedestrian access to the new Westfield Centre.
Maryland Station.  The station lies between Manor Park and Stratford on the Great Eastern Railway. It was originally known as Maryland Point Station opened in 1873. It was rebuilt in 1891 when the line was quadrupled and called Maryland from 1940.
Cart and Horses. An early pub was on this site in 1805 moving here from a site in The Grove, and was rebuilt in 1880. The Iron Maiden band started here with their first gigs in 1976.

Manby Park Road
Public baths demolished 1936.  Replaced by Boardman’s furniture depository. The site is now flats.

Matthews Park Avenue
Park Primary School. The primary school was opened in 1889, as a three-storey board school. It was reorganized in 1934 for juniors and infants.

Meeson Road
All Saints Mission Hall built 1884.  This is now the Chinese Ethics Association.

Park Avenue
St. Francis's Roman Catholic primary school, originated about 1816, when the parish priest, opened a school in High Street, adjoining the Catholic Church. This school moved in 1870 to Grove Crescent Road, next to the new church there. Later the children moved to Park Avenue where the school remained there until the early 1970's when it moved to Maryland Park and became St. Francis Catholic Voluntary Aided Primary School. The film director Alfred Hitchcock attended this school

Romford Road,
Romford Road is thought to preserve the line of one of the earliest Roman roads, which went from London to Colchester, the first Roman capital. There have been relevant finds outside the Fire Station in 1964, at number 30 in 1987 and Roman metalling has been found on the road
1-9 Young and Martin, builders’ merchants. This was on the corner site – roughly where the Ibis Hotel stands.  There building was angled to the corner with ‘Caledonian Works’ wrote over the door and a Frieze over the first floor windows.  There was a dome over the shop. Behind was their Caledonian Works. Founded in 1872 they made joinery and leaded lights and at one time special grates – and were large enough to have their own railway sidings.
2 St. John’s House.  House built in the mid 19th in brick. Used as offices.
27 This was St John’s Institute, a club for working men. It was built 1904-5 by EM Thomas & Co to the design of W. Henden Winder. It has a decorative entrance bay with a small dome
30 The Old Dispensary.  18th timber-framed, weather boarded house. This was a Dispensary in the 1870s used by Dr William Elliott of the West Ham Union. It is now used as Council offices and a visitor centre
54- 56 houses from the mid 18th
58 the 19th property here was demolished and replica built in the 1990’s
60 - 62, early 19th semi-detached villas,
76 Vicarage Terrace was built in the early 19th
West Ham Technical Institute. This was built on Stratford Common, in 1895-8 by, Gibson and Russell, employed an eclectic, imposing mix of architectural styles. Every conceivable motif is used which is available.  On the façade a frieze of figures illustrate science and the arts while Truth and Beauty carry the canopy to the main entrance. The Water Lane entrance was rebuilt following war damage Hall and has an eagle motif. Became North East London Polytechnic and now the University of East London.
Passmore Edwards Museum.  This was opened in 1900 by the Countess of Warwick following an agreement between the West Ham Council and Essex Field Club.  Passmore Edwards himself donated £3,000 and £1,000 and laid the foundation stone in 1900.  The philanthropist is commemorated on a bronze panel by HC Fehr above the entrance. The Museum was closed in the 1990s and Essex Field Club exhibits were removed. It now houses the Student Union for the University of East London.
88 The original house here was demolished for the building of the West Ham electricity showrooms in 1930. West Ham Council obtained powers to supply electricity throughout the borough in 1892 and by 1926 had the largest municipal electricity undertaking in London. Electricity was promoted to attract new industry to the borough. They opened their s first electricity supply showrooms here in the 1920’s and replaced them 1927- 1930 by the office building which remains.  This is now housing.
92 Highway Church. Highway’s origins date back to the 1880s where a series of ‘revival meetings’ were held in Stratford by the Americans D.L. Moody and I. Sankey. Out of this mission a conference hall was built in Bryant Street which was meant to remain a non-denominational mission to the East End of London. In the early 1930s Mr Leopold Harris, a managing director of a soap company, took over as Superintendant of the hall but left following a dispute about spiritual direction. He was asked to continue his interest with mission work and his group me met in various halls until they bought 90-92 Romford Road and Highway hall was built and opened in 1936.
Bow County Court. This was designed by H.M. Office of Works in 1957-9. The front is surmounted by the Royal Coat of Arms
110 this was a chapel for the Presbyterian Church of Wales (Calvinistic Methodists). It was built in 1894 and was closed after bombing in 1940. It later became a bedding factory.
110-118 this was Mattisons hotel bed factory on the site of a former chapel.  Mattisons are now based in Ipswich and flats were built on the site in 2008
120 Pigeons Hotel. Was once called Two Pigeons. The pub had a drinking trough and water pump nearby and is shown on early maps as serving travellers and drovers.  It was rebuilt in 1898 and, an engraved granite pillar says “Henry Poston Architect and C.E. Todd Builders here was a billiard saloon in the back and a British Billiard Champion played here.  Rebuilt 1898. It is now a shop and flats.
117 Fire Station. This was built in 1964 to replace a predecessor at West Ham Town Hall.
West Ham Baths. This complex was opened in 1934 with three pools, Turkish baths and bathrooms. It was used for boxing, wrestling, dancing. It is now known as the Atherton Leisure Centre, been rebuilt and is run by Greenwich Leisure Ltd

Tennyson Road
70 Tennyson Stores. This was run as a pub in the 1940s.
School Buildings. This was originally Stratford grammar school which had originated in 1906 as West Ham Municipal Central Secondary (mixed) School opened here in buildings planned by the school board as a higher elementary school.  Between the two world wars its reputation was very high and 'central' was dropped from its name in 1925. It was partly destroyed by bombing in 1941, and then renamed Stratford grammar school in 1945. In 1958 it moved and Stratford Green boys’ school was transferred to the site. This was closed in 1965.  The buildings are now part of Newham College of Further Education.

The Green
37- 49 Headquarters of the Territorial Association. The "neo-Gothic" Artillery House and the barracks site has been covered by the expanded premises of the North East London Polytechnic, now University of East London. It began as Volunteer forces were raised during the Napoleonic Wars. At least seven batteries of artillery were stationed there from 1874 to 1964.  The Artillery Depot remained here until 1960.

The Grove
148 Goldengrove Wetherspoons' Pub opened in 1993. The name is a reference to a poem by Gerard Manley Hopkins.
121-123 Stratford Health Centre. Built in 1886 this was the James Dace, Piano warehouse, and in 1893 used by Joseph Young, pianoforte manufacturers, until about 1908 and from 1965-71 it was a store for Optical Products Ltd.
The Grove Picture Theatre opened in 1910. A central pay box had been added letting out onto the street, with entrance doors on each side. Alterations were made in 1929 by A. Smith and it was equipped for sound films. Known as the Grove Cinema, it went through several owners, closing in 1930. Always independently operated, the Grove Cinema was finally closed in 1940. It was used as a factory, and then stood derelict. In the late-1990’s, the building was restored and converted into a medical centre
119 The Lord Henniker Pub, also called the Coronet. This was a Charrington’s house which was there in 1862 and closed in 2003.  The premises are now offices and shops.
109 Stratford Advice Arcade.  Facilities under one roof. This was previously offices for North East London Polytechnic.
Stratford House. This stood on the site now covered by Great Eastern Road.  Home of Lord Henniker, who was an extensive land-owner in the area. This house was "a substantial mansion” demolished in the 19th
87 The site it is under Morrison’s. But this was the birthplace in 1844 of Poet and Jesuit Gerard Manley Hopkins. He was born in 1844 at 87 The Grove, since bombed and demolished. There is a memorial to him unveiled in 1994 outside the Library – which quotes lines from “The Wreck of the Deuchesland” – the nuns commemorated in the poem were laid out in the Friary opposite and buried locally
Central Baptist church. The church was found in 1852. The land was bought for the church in 1854 and the church built. It has had twenty Ministers since its inception in 1852 and continues.
Methodist Church. In 1868 the Stratford circuit was founded and a church built in The Grove in 1871 plus a schoolroom in 1873. It was the leading Wesleyan church in the area for many years. The Stratford Conference Hall was built as a non-denominational space but in 1934 it joined the Methodists as part of the London Mission (West Ham). Both buildings were bombed in 1940 and demolished in 1953.
Gardens. There were originally gardens on the south side where a number of monuments stood. They have been replaced by Morrison’s and the Ibis Hotel.
Peace Sculpture. This is now outside Morrison's but it was originally in the gardens here. It was commissioned by the London Borough of Newham to commemorate the International Year of Peace in 1984. Three figures are together supporting the earth, Destroying any one would cause the world to fall.
Memorial to Edith S. Kerrison, the first woman to serve on the West Ham council. There is also a small inscription near the base saying that this monument is placed in a garden but it is now outside the library.
Newham Municipal Offices.  These stood here from 1976 to 1997. It had a ziggurat shape as an attempt to break away from the monotony of some office architecture. It was designed by Kenneth Lund. Borough Architect for Newham. There were supposed to be two ziggurats but only one was built with an 80ft aluminum clad chimney behind. Demolished. 
Sarah Bonnell Grammar School for Girls, dates from the 18th . In 1905 it moved from a site in West Ham Lane to a new school in the Grove, as West Ham High School for Girls.  The school was destroyed by bombing during the Second World War and the school was relocated,
95 School Board offices. This building dated from 1897 as School Board Offices and also housed the Borough Treasurer's Department as well as the Education Department. Demolished.
Stratford Library. Built to replace the Water Lane Library and attract teenagers by playing lots of loud pop music.
Stratford Morrison’s supermarket160 The Friary. This was established in a pair of 19th houses behind St. Francis of Assisi church and facing The Grove. They were extended in Gothic style in 1876

Tramway Avenue
Cut between Broadway and West Ham Lane for the trams. In 1903 West Ham Corporation took over all the North Metropolitan Tram Company's lines within the borough, extended and electrified them. A new road, Tramway Avenue, was cut through from the Broadway to West Ham Lane. In 1937–40 the trams were replaced by trolley buses, which remained in use until 1960.
Vaughan Road
St. Matthew’s church began around 1891, when the vicar of All Saints, opened a mission here. A flint and brick church was built in 1896.  It is described as a church on the Evangelical wing of the Church of England

Vicarage Lane
This was once known as Jackass Lane. The Vicarage for the parish church of All Saints was here until 1856.
59 Bay Tree Hotel. Pub dates back at least to the 1860s
Vicarage Lane Community Centre
Mission Hall. About 1900 St. Matthew's Church, Vaughan, opened a mission here. This was destroyed by bombing in the Second World War and the site was sold in 1951

Victoria Street
Streimer (Nougat) Ltd.  Nougat factory founded by a Morris Streimer, a Jewish immigrant from Austria. His works was originally in the High Street and Ward Road E.15. They moved to Victoria Street in 1936. The site is now flats.
57a Unitas Works, United Paint Co. Ltd.  Thus company made a large range of paints emulsion, stone finish, gloss, etc. They were in which had once been stables and part of the complex owned by the North Metropolitan Tramways from the 1880's. It is said that some of the stable fittings were still in place. The site is now flats.

Water Lane
The site of the present University and Library complex, between Romford Road and The Green, was originally the broader westernmost end of a wedge-shaped piece of common land running along the northern side of Romford Road. The common was in the early 19th and was later known as Stratford Green.  In the mid 19t this was a square area surrounded by a narrow belt of trees and containing a small pond
University of East London. The university has grown from locally based educational institutions. In 1892 the County Borough of West Ham established a technical institute which provided courses in science, engineering and art with University of London external degrees in science and engineering. Essex County Council established colleges in Walthamstow and Dagenham and in the 1970s the three colleges merged to create the North east London Polytechnic. In 1988, this became the Polytechnic of East London in 1989 and in 1992 the University of East London.  It has gradually centralised its work around the Stratford area and the new Docklands campus while closing the old Essex sites. They have since got themselves a coat of arms and a set of ‘academic dress’.
Stratford ‘Campus’ University of East London. .In this area it is on the site of the barracks and Artillery House as well as some of the West Ham municipal buildings. It is centered around University House, which appears to be the buildings of the old West Ham Tec’. This has had a great deal of refurbishment and rebuilding which includes a new Library and Learning Centre, laboratories and computing facilities, and new buildings housing the Cass School of Education and Communities and the Centre for Clinical Education in Podiatry, Physiotherapy and Sports Science.
Stratford Library.  The library was built by West Ham Borough Council and called Central Library, forming part of a complex comprising, library, Municipal College and the Passmore Edwards Museum.  The funds used to build it were the excise duties from the ECA.  There was a Competition for the building and it opened in 1898.  It faces Water Lane with three semicircular pediments and a domed tower. Figures of children enliven its frieze. The Interior survives complete and the main space has decorative barrel roof and coloured plaster reliefs. The glass screens and bookshelves also survive.  The woodwork was specially prepared in Aberdeen. 
Shakespeare Statue. A Coade stone sculpture dated 1846, is believed to have been transferred from the Haymarket here in 1923
Estate agent’s shop – this was a single storey butchers shop and is thus decorated with stucco bull’s heads
Manby Arms pub
St. Helen's House. This had been founded in 1896 through St. Margaret's House, Bethnal Green. In 1931 it moved to Water Lane and After the Second World War was reconstituted as Dockland settlement No. 9.  It was connected to the Tom Allen club and by 1969 St. Helen's House being their warden’s residence. It has since been demolished.
Water Lane board school. This was opened in 1897 and included a deaf and dumb centre, a pupil-teacher centre, and offices. It was reorganized in 1945 as a secondary modern school and eventually became part of Deanery High School, now Sarah Bonnell School.

Welfare Road
This was previously called Union Road.
Brickfield House. This was founded in 1662 following demands for an oath of allegiance by Charles II in 1660. By 1672 there were two Presbyterian groups in Salway Place. In 1773 Negotiations began for land at 'Brickfields for Stratford Independent Church and a building and graveyard were opened in 1776. 1802 an Independent Girls School was opened.  In 1875 they joined the London Congregational Union and the church was partly rebuilt in 1896. West Ham Council took over the graveyard in 1912 and then the chapel was badly damaged during the Second World War.  After the war the membership shrank to only a few people but in 1986 the church was refurbished, the graveyard levelled and a Children’s Centre developed. A lot of work went in to getting converts and appealing to young people and into community interaction.  However since 2008 the church is no longer used by United Reform members but by Portuguese and Kenyan congregations
Newham College of Further Education.This was established here by London Borough of Newham in 1985, the result of a merger between East Ham Technical College and West Ham Further Education College. The buildings are on the site of what were Stratford Green Boys School and predecessor schools based in Tennyson Road and also of West Ham College.

West Ham Lane
18 Stratford Police Station
25 Princess of Wales. Pub
29-35 East Thames Housing Group in new build offices. Originally this was East Thames Housing Association
44 This was an old police station, which became a lodging house. Since demolished.
Conference hall. This was on the site of the police station. It originated in 1884 as the result of a visit of the American evangelists Moody and Sankey. Subsequently the Young Men's Christian Association built a hall seating 1,600 on a site given by a Miss Eccles. in 1941 the main hall the main hall was destroyed in the blitz but in the early 1960s a small church was built behind the hall site.
Queen Mary's Hospital for the East End.The West Ham, Stratford and South Essex Dispensary was opened in July 1861 by a local doctor, William Elliot at 30 Romford Road given by Mrs. Curtis.  These premises were top small and Mrs. Curtis then gave land in West Ham Lane.  The new two storey Dispensary opened in 1879 with a consulting room, an ophthalmic dark room and a dispensing room. Funds were raised for a new building next door and The West Ham, Stratford and South Essex Hospital and Dispensary, was opened by the Duke of Westminster in 1890.  It was to be used mainly for accident cases. The old Dispensary became the new Out-Patients Department. In 1894 John Passmore Edwards laid the foundation stone for a new wing having donated £3000 towards its costs.  It was renamed West Ham Hospital and an annexe for nursing accommodation was added.  In 1902 An X-ray apparatus was installed, and   in 1903 electric lighting in the operating theatre.  In July 1907 the Duchess of Malrborough laid the foundation stone for yet another extension.  In 1909 it was renamed the West Ham and Eastern General Hospital and there were more extensions in 1912. In the Great War servicemen were treated and the hospital took over adjoining buildings. In 1917 it became Queen Mary's Hospital for the East End. Later an Out-Patients Department was opened as the War Memorial of the County Borough of West Ham.  It was the largest war memorial of any kind in Great Britain, and the fourth largest Out-Patients' Department. Expansion continued.  In the Second World War was evacuated and become a casualty hospital for air-raid casualties and servicemen.  It was the first London hospital to be bombed.   In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS, under the control of the West Ham Group Hospital Management Committee.  Queen Mary's Hospital finally closed in 1983, when Newham General Hospital opened.   The buildings have all been demolished apart from the preserved entry archway in Bryant Street. The Out-Patients Department, built as a war memorial to the dead of the Great War has also gone and the dedicatory tablet is apparently lost.  The site is now housing.
43 Transport and General Workers' Union building which was commissioned in the 1930s. It has a globe, on the roof designed to function as a beacon. As the building opened at the outbreak of World War II, the light was never lit. It was the principal offices of the Union in the East End and had offices, a Board room, branch rooms, and a hall – and an air raid shelter. The building is now used for training purposes and includes a nursery.
West Ham High School for Girls. Sarah Bonnell School for Girls dated from the 18th and had a school room near to West Ham church. Under a scheme of 1873, by the Endowed Schools Commissioners, it became the West Ham High School for Girls, and moved to new buildings in West Ham Lane in 1876. That site was sold to West Ham hospital in 1905 and the school moved to The Grove
St John’s Vicarage. This also stood here and was sold the Hospital in 1915.
Stratford Park – aka West Ham Recreation Ground. West Ham Lane Recreation Ground opened in stages between 1899 and 1912 as land was acquired. The section next to Whalebone Lane was land which had been attached to a house called Sonables which had belonged to the Archdeacon of Essex. The land was sold to West Ham Council in 1899. It was renamed Stratford Park in the late 1990s. The original layout of the Recreation Ground in 1899 is like the earlier Canning Town Recreation Ground designed by Fanny Wilkinson of the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association. The layout was based around bandstand in a circular paved area with curving paths radiated from it and a perimeter path flanked by trees. The bandstand has gone and in 2004/5 a new performance space was constructed. A fountain near the main entrance has been replaced granite fountain in a pool with modern cast iron railings around it. There was provision of a playground in the north corner and sports in the south, screened by trees and this remains with extensions and a modern pavilion north of the tennis courts. In 1973 a scented Garden for the Blind was opened. Stratford Park first won a Green Flag Award in 2004, and has kept this.Carpenters Company marker and their arms are displayed on it. It appears to be a boundary mark. The Carpenters Company originally owned a lot of land in Stratford. Sculptured bandstand/stage/walk-through sculpture. The tiled backing wall stands within a large circular area with low walls

West Ham Park
West Ham Park, is the largest park in the London Borough of Newham, and is owned and maintained by the City of London Corporation since 1874. Only a western portion appears in this square. The land was originally part of the Upton House estate, and was bought in 1762 by philanthropist Dr John Fothergill and used as a botanical garden. Later the Park was owned by the Gurney family and in the 1860s; local residents, the City of London and the family raised funds allow it to be preserved as a park. It was opened in 1874 by the Lord Mayor of London.
Cricket Square. Cricket has been played in the Park since 1874. There are two cricket squares, and one is for is youth matches
Linden Cottages. This replaced an earlier house with the same name which was damaged in the Second World War.
Football Pitches.  Upton Park Football Club was an amateur club in who played their home games here and represented Great Britain in the 1900 Olympics, which they won. The club was wound up before the Great War.
Lucombe Oak. This is by Linden Gate near Ham Park Road. It is an evergreen tree with a bulbous trunk and one of the oldest trees in the park
Whalebone Lane
This old pedestrian walk runs along the northern edge of West Ham Recreation Ground.
Wolfe Gardens
College Point. Tower block built 1967

AIM. Archives. Web site
British History on line. Stratford. Web site.
Bryant Street Methodist Church. Web site
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Corporation of the City of London. Web site
Dodds. London Then,
East London Old and New
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Newham. Web site.
London Encyclopedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London Web site
Newham Story. Web site
Sarah Bonnel School. Web site
St.Francis of Assisi. Web site
St. Matthews. Web site
Stratford Baptist Church. Web site.
Stratford’s Free Art and History. Web site.
The Highway. Web site
Walford. Highgate to the Lea
Walford. Village London