Tuesday, 30 March 2010

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice - River Peck - Peckham Rye

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice
The River Peck leaves the park and continues underground in the sewer in a general northerly direction towards the Earl Sluice

Post to the north Peckham
Post to the south East Dulwich


Amott Road.
Amott Baptist Church

Carden Road
1 Lighthouse Cathedral – was St.Anthony (or St. Antholin) church. Now Ghanaian church. Built 1877-8 by Ewan Christian in red brick, lancet style. One end was demolished after bombing and replaced by a vicarage plus garden. This work was done by Laurence King.

Consort Road
Beeston House almshouses (1834) of the Girdlers' Company a terrace of five stuccoed Tudor houses in a garden, with a separate one-storey range on either side, tactfully added since the Second World War. The Worshipful Company of Girdlers erected these almshouses to commemorate the good deeds of Cuthbert Beeston who was Master of the Company in 1570. In his will dated of 1582, he gave the Company premises in the parish of St Olave, Southwark The property gradually increased in value and was eventually sold so the land could be used for access to the new London Bridge. With money raised the Church Commissioners bought the site of Nunhead Road and built the almshouses. Civic Trust award in 1975 There is a Gothic water pump stands in the grounds and, although not in its original position.

Crystal Palace Road
2 Janson, hairdressers supplies company

Dewar Street.
Wilkinson House, Care home.

East Dulwich Road
King's on the Rye, the former King‘s Arms. Closed and rebuilt as ‘modern flats
Line of cast iron poles to carry awnings outside shops.
Dulwich Housing Office
45. Public baths and wash houses, now converted to leisure centre. Built 1890-1892. By Spalding and Cross. Red brick with stone dressings. Panel with lettering "Dulwich Public Baths.” Inside is a hall staircase with cast-iron supports, elaborate cast-iron newel post and mahogany handrail. The large bath is now a sports hall. Warm baths survive with original fittings.
Batey Mineral Water Works Victorian ginger beer factory with a head office in Hammersmith.

Elsie Road,
Elsie was a relation of E.Barley who built the houses in 1884

Gordon Road
85 Sailor Prince Pub. Converted to offices
Nunhead Library. Opened 1896 by funder John Passmore Edwards. Designed in late Tudor style by Robert Whellock.
189 Scott lift factory
217a Salvation Army church
Gowlett Road
62 Gowlett Arms. Timber panelled walls

Lacon Road
25 modernist house on three floors. All green and recycled with a balcony on the top floor.

Nigel Road
24 home William Margrie, founder of the London Explorers Club, and who was known as the Sage of Peckham. Died in 1960 and wrote: "I have no very urgent desire to go to Heaven; Peckham is good enough for me,"

Nunhead Green
One and a half acres of grass and asphalt. Woods and duck pond.
Asylum of the Beer & Wine Trades Association, motto ‘Live & let Live’. Beer and Wine Homes 1852-3 by William Webbe, a gabled yellow-brick Gothic front with angled chimneys. New housing added behind, by A & D. Dove
Allison Terrace added in 1872
39 Pyrotechnists' Arms a reminder that Mr. Brock of fireworks fame had once a factory here.
Brock's fireworks factory. Located here from Islington to supply displays to Crystal Palace. In 1870 they made 2m cartridges tubes for the French army in the Franco Prussian war. Unsure of exactly where this was, there is no obvious site on maps and it is not mentioned in histories of the company
15 Old Nun's Head. Tea gardens once surrounded the pub but, nothing remains. In 1827 these gardens drew crowds from all over the land. Said to be built in the grounds of an old convent dispersed in the Reformation. It is said the prioress was executed and her head displayed here on a pike.
Salvation Army
Nunhead Green Early Years Centre

Nunhead Lane
25 Tyrell Arms
57 Duke now The Village Inn Truemans
Man of Kent
20-26 National Steam Car Co Ltd bus garage. 1911 From here Clarkson white double deck steam buses were fired by paraffin and served routes to Shepherd's Bush and Hampton Court. Owing to the rising cost of paraffin, the fleet was withdrawn in 1919 and the garage was used for petrol buses by the London General Co and then LPRT. London Transport closed the garage in 1954. It was used 1958 - 1970s by Banfield's Luxury Coaches. Charles Banfield, who founded his charabanc business in 1926, had worked at Nunhead as a driver for the London General. Some scenes from the popular TV series On the Buses were filmed at Nunhead. It was later used by a drinks wholesaler. The structure with three central bays and a central clock turret was the sole survivor of the type of bus garage in Britain. Demolished in 1999 and flats built with a replica of the clock turret.

Peckham Rye
'Rye' means a projecting piece of land from "rhyn,” which with "Peckham” which means a village under the hills - a village under the heights of Sydenham, by a stream'. ‘Peckham Rithe’ in 1520’ could refer to 'a small stream'.
Peckham Rye Common. This has been suggested as a site for one of Boudicca's battles, and as a stag hunting ground. It was the site of a prisoner of war camp but normally was common grazing land. It has been used as a recreation ground from time immemorial. William Blake had his first vision of "a tree filled with angels, bright angelic wings bespangling every bough like stars" here. It was originally sixty-four acres and forty-nine acres were added. In 1766 and 1789 there had already been concern about encroachments. Housing would have been built here if local people had not fought in the 1860s to stop the Lord of the Manor, Sir William Bowyer Smyth. The manorial rights were purchased in 1868 by Camberwell Vestry. In 1864, thirty-two vans of' Wombwell’s wild beasts' moved in. A bandstand was transferred here in 1889 by the London County Council - one of a pair originally erected in the Royal Horticultural Society's Garden in Kensington.
Flats overlooking the east side of the Common are some blocks of London County Council flats between Waveney Road and Rye Hill Park which escaped bomb damage.
Dog Pond. Near Prisoner of War camps
Duck Pond
Open-air swimming baths. On a triangular piece of ground which is cut off from the main part of Peckham Rye Common by East Dulwich Road. Opened in 1923. Part of the film "Entertaining Mr Sloane" was shot there. It closed in April 1987 and in May 1995 Southwark Council were still attempting to sell the lido for redevelopment. In the end it was cleared and became part of Peckham Rye Park.
Gloucester Cottage. Home of poet Tom Hood, Jnr
Manilla House. Home of Henry Schiller. Writer and operettist who invented way of making deep sea cables and worked with US photographer, Mayall
1 Prospect Place. Home of Vincent Figgins, died 1844. He was a City typefounder
31 Rye Hotel
20 White Horse. Tudor style front and a ghost
174 the garden has a wide variety of foliage.. Best in early June with pink and blue flowers..
196a Clock House Pub opposite the eastern entrance to the common on Peckham Rye has won awards for its exuberant hanging baskets and window boxes. Features numerous clocks including a stained glass window as a clock.
Austin’s Court now occupies the site of Austin's at Peckham Rye. This was one of the largest antique and second-hand dealers in Europe. It was started by George Austin who in 1876 had opened Oxford Farm Dairy and also advertised Household Removals and Warehousing. In 1905 they took on the site at Peckham Rye. His son George Edward Austin and his four sons built up the business in the 1930s. It was later run by his great grandson with his sister Valene. L it closed in 1994.
Roberts' Capsule Stopper factory overlooking the Common. Art deco building opened in 1931 and designed by Wallis Gilbert and Partners. It became Roberts' Metal Packaging Ltd. The new factory was built on the site of Pineapple Lodge, home of market gardener Israel Solomon.
Bandstand. One of two "band houses" from the Royal Horticultural Society site at South Kensington. Designed by Captain Francis Fowke. When the Gardens closed in the mid-1880s, the bandstands were dismantled and put up for sale. In April 1889 the London County Council had approved a budget of £600 for a new bandstand for Peckham Rye and bought the South Kensington ones.


Upland Mews
Features in films 'Mona Lisa’.

Monday, 29 March 2010

Thames Tributary River Peck - East Dulwich

Thames Tributary River Peck
A number of springs and streamlets contribute to the stream in Peckham Rye Park.

The slightly more downmarket bit of Dulwich but rapidly becoming fashionable around Peckham Rye

Post to the north Peckham Rye
Post to the east Honor Oak
Post to the south Forest Hill

Barry Road,
Named after Sir Charles Barry, 1867, designer of Houses of Parliament and Surveyor of Dulwich College
Emmanuel United Reform Church. Built 1890 it would look like a Church of England church if it was not for the Sunday School next door. It is a large ragstone building with a prominent spire ending the view down Barry Road. By W. D. Church, 1890-1.

Crystal Palace Road
CPT pub. Was the Crystal Palace Tavern
The Uplands, was The Uplands Tavern

Colyton Road
5 Percy Oliver – Oliver was a Camberwell local government officer, involved in the Red Cross and instrumental in setting up the blood donor service.

Darrell Road.
East Dulwich Community Centre

Forest Hill Road
2 Herne Tavern. LOLA (Leave Our Local Alone) successfully fought to stop this community pub from being turned into a restaurant; it is now part of a pub group previously owned by Scottish & Newcastle. Comfortable, wood-panelled interior
36 Blue plaque to the birthplace of Boris Karloff – real name William Pratt
108 Forest Hill Tavern. Traditional Trueman style. Current calls itself FHT,
Camberwell Old Cemetery. In 1855 The Camberwell Burial Board bought 30 acres of meadow land to use as the Burial Ground of St Giles, Camberwell. There were burials from 1856 and it is now owned by LB Southwark. By 1984, 300,000 burials had been carried out. It covers 38 acres and had three chapels, two by George Gilbert Scott - Church of England, Nonconformist and Roman Catholic – they were all damaged in Second World War bombing The Catholic Chapel was demolished in the 1970s and only a Gothic lodge now remains of the original buildings. Secondary woodland and scrub have developed which includes oak, hornbeam, ash, horse chestnut, poplar, sycamore and hawthorn. Some specimen trees remain and there are old boundary oak pollards as well as pear and a black poplar. Brambles and ivy sometimes cover graves First World War memorial near the entrance. Memorials to: James Berkeley who built the an Indian railway line; Rebekah Horniman; Richard Wallis, clerk to Camden Chapel; Charles Waters of the International Bible Reading Association; George Yanni who murdered three Armenians.. Features in the film 'Entertaining Mr. Sloane’.

Friern Road
The name relates to the old manor of Freryn Camberwell taking the Middle English word ‘frère’ when the area belonged to Holywell Priory on Shoreditch
Friern Manor Farm. Friern Road and surrounding Victorian streets in East Dulwich were built on land of Friern Manor and Friern Farm Friern Manor Estate was put up for auction in 1864, and the farm sold in 1873. Within two years later roads had been laid across most of the fields
Friern Manor had been built by Lord St.John in 1720 to replace a much older house, which was at least Tudor, and where Alexander Pope is supposed to have written Essay on Man. Sold in 1864.
Friern Farm. This farm in the Middle Ages was owned by the Priory in Shoreditch. In 1853 it was Wright’s Dairy Farm which kept 186 cows in sheds, lit by gas. Fourteen people were employed to do the milking spending 17 minutes per cow . The milk reached London at 5 a.m. and 1 p.m.
St.Clement with St.Peter. The parish was formed in 1886 and a church built in 1883 of red brick and stone in the style of the 13th. It had started in the 1870's as a mission church of St. John's, East Dulwich. It was destroyed in bombing in 1940, and after the war the present church was built and consecrated in 1957. The new building is modern on a slightly elevated site with a separate prefabricated church hall behind. In 1986 it was amalgamated with St.Peter Dulwich Common.
VII and Bomb, 11 died, 1944 between Friern Road and Barry Road

Goodrich Road
Named in 1868 for the Bishop of Ely in 1534
Goodrich Community Primary School. Old board school

Henslowe Road,
Named for Tudor impresario, Philip Henslowe, who was also Alleyn's father in law
Henslow Bus Co., said to be based here in an old Camberwell Borough Council Yard. This was a speculative private bus company set up to make money out of buses between the wars.
V1 1944 at the south end. 2 houses were demolished and many others damaged. Part of the site remained with 1940's prefabs erected into the 1990s.

Hindman’s Road
24 home and workshop of potter Lucy Burley
52a converted car servicing garage has become a studio for potter Julian Stair. Kilns and clay store at ground level and office and gallery at the mezzanine.

Mundania Road
Named for events in the Crimean War
Baptist Church being converted to flats. Built in 1891 to the design of George Baines. Was the base for T.Austin Sparks who went on to found a world wide training base from a nearby college.

Peckham Rye
Piermont Green
School gateways remain from Friern School, opened in 1896 and designed by T.J. Bailey of the London School Board architects’ department. It is in Queen Anne Style, and uses inventive techniques in environmental design, maximising daylight and fresh air with operable windows and natural ventilation systems. This school is made of high quality "red rubber" and hand-cut bricks with Portland stone decorative detailing, set against a complimentary field of London stock bricks.
The Elms. Grade II listed with its own gate into the park.
Peckham Rye Park. In 1890 Peckham Rye Common was extended by 49 acres of Homestall Park. This was done by The Borough of Camberwell who gave £20,000, the London County Council £18,000, and the Charity Commissioners £12,000. In 1890 Homestall farm was still there and what became the stage was one of the farm huts. Whalebone arches were a popular feature in the Park and were given by a Homestall Road resident where they had been in his garden. The Park opened on Whit Monday, 14 May 1894 with a procession of trade and temperance society bands and banners, marching from Camberwell. There is a secluded Woodland Walk. The Sexby Garden is a rose garden enclosed by 100-year old yew hedges and a pergola clad in climbing roses, commemorating the parks designer.
Peck River. The bed of the River Peck, is on the west side of the park near the former Friern School. Two tributaries of the Peck joined here and continued underground. The Valley pond and a bit of stream in the Park are the remains of it. The Silted ponds were the carp ponds of the Manor of Bretinghursts.

Scutari Road
Named for events in the Crimean War

Therapia Road
Named for events in the Crimean War

Underhill Road
Honor Oak Mansions. Grade II listed.
Prefabs – remain on a site cleared as the result of a V1 in 1944

Upland Road
Local field name
Summerhouse Primary Referral Unit
131 oriental style garden with ponds and waterfall shaded by black bamboo. Winding path of paddle stones passes 2 'dinosaur eggs under an 'umbrella' tree. Tall bamboo.

Sources
British History on Line, Dulwich
Clunn. The Face of London   
Darby. Dulwich. A Place in History
Emmanuel URC. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Forest Hill Tavern. Web site
Goodrich School. Web site
Green. Around Dulwich
Herne Tavern. Web site
London Borough of Southwark. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Nature Conservation in Southwark

Pevsner and Cherry. South London


Sunday, 28 March 2010

Thames Tributary River Peck - Honor Oak

Thames Tributary River Peck - Honor Oak
The Peck rises from three springs in the Honor Oak area and flows south towards Peckham Rye

Post to the west East Dulwich

Ackroyd Street
Developed by the Leathersellers ‘Company.

Athelney Road,
built by Gates, a South London millionaire also active ubn Walworth and Kennington as well.

Borland Road
Previously Marylebone Road
2 Gandolfi family moved into a hat pin factory here in 1928. They made very posh wooden cameras but moved to Andover in the early 1980s. Cameras supplied to the Tutenkamun expedition, to David Bailey etc.

Brenchley Gardens
Brenchley Gardens Linear Park. Created on land previously occupied by allotments it was opened on 6 October 1928 it must have been ideal for observing the trains. It was named after Cllr William Brenchley, Mayor of Camberwell. The London County Council wouldn't agree the name so Camberwell claimed it was called after Brenchley in Kent. Originally opened 1928, it now includes the track-bed area of the Crystal Palace High Level Railway, which closed during the last years of the Second World War, and closed completely in 1954. . The rockery at the southern end shows where the track-bed was added and continuing in it makes a glad alongside the old line. There are still remnants of the line side trees - hybrid black poplars, ashes, aspen and sycamores.
Honor Oak station. 1st December 1865. Built by London Chatham and Dover Railway this station was on the south west of Forest Hill Road between Wood Vale and Canobie Road. There was a subway under the line to a wooden booking office, but later tickets were sold on the platform. Between 1917and 1919 it was closed And in 1954 finally closed. The site is now obliterated
Coal yard on the up side of the station. It was timber built with sidings 1865-1954
Camberwell New Cemetery. Built on the site of the former Honor Oak and Forest Hill Golf Course in 1927 on a damp slope with nature interest. The brick chapel was designed in 1930 by Sir Aston Webb and has a central tower over an archway, with chapels on either side. There are acres of rosebeds. It contains 198 Second World War burials most in a war graves plot. Graves include that of the boxer, Freddie Mills.
Honor Oak Crematorium. A brick building from 1939. Brick by W. Bell and Maurice Webb. Opened by the physician Lord Horder in 1939. Camberwell Vestry had considered providing a crematorium in the late 19th. However it was not until the 1920s and following a public inquiry that they got consent to do so.

Brockley Way
Line of ancient path called Nunhead Lane or Brockley Jack Path. It crossed the Croydon canal at lock 22. The railway bridge is probably on the same site.
Abutments of a railway bridge which mark the line of and are the remains of the 1865 Crystal Palace and South London Junction Railway, the line of which is now inside Brenchley Gardens.
Cemetery and crematorium gates
Fire hydrant iron pavement cover. Made by Blakeborough of Brighouse

Cheltenham Road
Honor Oak Reservoir - Beechcroft Reservoir. Called after the Metropolitan Board of Works’ first Chairman. It was planned and designed by James Restler. For the Kent Water Company and opened under the Metropolitan Water Board by the Lord Mayor of London in 1909. It was the largest ever brick-lined underground reservoir and remained the largest in Europe holding 56 1/2m gallons. It is in 4 separate sections, which can all be filled or emptied independently, in a rectangular grid made up of brick piers and vaulted ceilings. Built on natural clay its outer walls are of concrete lined with brickwork. At the bottom is a 300' well. It took 16m bricks which were all made on site from clay from the excavated clay. There was also 95,000 cu ft concrete and took 400 Men 3 years. The Reservoir takes water from Walton and was intended to provide a low pressure reservoir for south east London but its water can go north if necessary. It is connected to a 42 inch main bringing filtered water from Hampton - 17 miles away. It contains Halls cement and the contractor was J.Moran and Son
Honor Oak Pumping Station. Building of 1901, inscribed 'Southwark & Vauxhall Water Company', with a tower topped by a French chateau roof. It was built over the original well which is 100 metres deep and still in use.
Valve House. A classical red brick structure of 1909
Aquarius Golf Course. Aquarius Golf Course built on top of the reservoir. Owned by the Metropolitan Water Board, and named from the zodiac sign meaning 'the water carrier'. Lots of short turf with waterworks bits sticking out.

Fernholme Road
built by Gates

Holmesley Road
built by Gates

Homestall Road
Harris Girls Academy - opened in September 2006 and is part of the Harris Federation of South London Schools sponsored by Lord Harris of Peckham. This was previously the Waverley School. Taking Teen-age girls from six London Boroughs.

Honor Oak Estate
Development of the late 1920s by the London County Council. 27 blocks in brown brick over 25 acres.

Honor Oak Park
The original part of Forest Hill and laid out with posh houses from the 1780s. It was never the name of a park but a name thought up by developers. Off the road and in the middle of woodland. The Road which had a very tortuous track was built up in 1863 and initially called St. Germans Road
Honor Oak Park Station. 1886. Between Forest Hill and Brockley. Opened on the Croydon Line, which had been laid down through the area in 1839. The railway is still in its deep cutting nearby, continuing to climb to Forest Hill, although original proposals would have had a steeper gradient. It was partly funded by local estate developers. The original building remains, with covered walkways leading down to the platforms in a cutting.
Railway bridge. When it was originally built the road was a narrow track which only served a field path. It was widened in 1886
St.Augustine. Built 1872-3 by William Oakley. A Ragstone church with a tower completed in 1888. Stained Glass windows, one by Heaton, Butler & Bayne.
101a/c site of the Croydon Canal: recent houses have which have filled in the gaps.
103-111 The owners of these late Victorian houses would have had the old canal at the bottom of their gardens, still in water albeit out of use. Four of them put bridges across to recreational land, now under Boveney Road.,
103 the site of lock keepers cottage for the Croydon Canal was in front of this house. The cottage had gone by 1863 lock house had gone, and the site had been used for road widening.
Croydon Canal Lock 28 would have been alongside the cottage and would straddle the road
Croydon Canal- to the north of the road it crossed nursery land going north east towards the line of the current railway.
Open spaces. A large open area of allotments, a derelict nursery and playing fields providing a valuable informal habitat of rough grassland, bramble thickets & ruderal herbs. There are common meadow crickets as well s tawny owl, green woodpecker, goldfinch, dunnock and whitethroat.
Honor Oak Nursery. In the Second World War this was used by the London Meals Service and reserve AFS station. There was a walled reservoir in the playground.


Marmora Road
Named after events in the Crimean War.

One Tree Hill
Could be seen as one of the last remains of the Great North Wood. Paths go steeply up from Honor Oak Park through woodland to the 90 metre high summit of the Hill. It is also known as Honor Oak Hill. It is said to be the site of victory over Boudicca, which is extremely unlikely. The status of the hill was in some doubt in the19th but local people thought it was 'waste' or common land, and when it was enclosed for a large private golf course in 1896 thousands of people gathered and pulled down the fences. Eventually the neighbouring local councils acquired the hill through the LCC's General Powers Act of 1904 and it opened in as a park 1905. There is lots of grass but few trees although new ones have been introduced. Oak and sycamore grow with an under storey of elder and hawthorn. Crab apple, hawthorn and oak are plentiful and London plane trees are here in a woodland habitat. There are many birds and insects.
The Oak of Honour is said to mark the southern boundary of the Honour of Gloucester. You are supposed to sing a psalm under the oak. Elizabeth I picnicked with Sir Richard Bulkeley of Beaumaris on May Day in 1602, and it is believed that it was at an oak tree on this summit– but it is not believed that she got drunk and knighted the oak. She is said to have thought the hill the most difficult climb for her courtiers in the area. On the 18th Roque Map it is marked as ‘Oak of Arnon’. Surrounded by railings on the summit is an oak, probably planted in c.1905 and then Replanted because it was struck by lightning. The oak is on the original boundary between the Metropolitan Boroughs of Lewisham and Camberwell. From beneath the oak is said to come one of the three springs in the area which feed the River Peck.
Camberwell Parish boundary marker. Iron
Beacon. On the summit is a gun emplacement from the First World War, and a beacon used in 1988 on the fourth centenary of the defeat of the Armada although there is no evidence of a beacon here then. It was the site of a beacon and telegraph belonging to the East India Company and during the Napoleonic wars as a Beacon Hill for the Admiralty. That was a commercial visual telegraph station, established here in 1842 by B L Watson, and used until the first station near London Bridge was burnt down in 1843. A 'signaling cottage', near the top of the hill seems to have survived into the 1860s.
Horse trough and drinking fountain. Gone.

Reynolds Road
Previously late Pancras Road

Stuart Road
40 The Ivy House
Denne Ltd. Work wear manufacturers. founded in 1895 by Harry Robert Denne in the East End of London to make collars for city gents.

Walter’s Way
A private close with 13 square timber-framed flat-roof houses of 1987. This was a social self-build scheme with designs chosen by the 'self-builders', based on a concept of Walter Segal, a Swiss- architect who pioneered this lightweight self-build system. Lewisham Council took it up in 1978, when the architectural writer Nicholas Taylor, was Chair of Housing. Jon Broome of Archetype was joint architect for the first part and has developed the concept since Segal's death.

Saturday, 27 March 2010

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice - Bricklayers

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice
Earl Sluice is said to have continued roughly on the line of Albany Road, crossing the Old Kent Road at the Thomas a Becket. It then turned east at Earl Road and continued roughly on the line of Rolls Road.
TQ 33517 78696

Inner city area lying along the Old Kent Road and the Roman route out of the city into Kent and ultimately Dover.  Here are the remains of the attempt to turn the area into a major railway terminus at Bricklayers Arms and the spaces which evolved into a major goods terminus. There are also the sites of what was an intensely industrialised area - many works which had links to the important centre of leather working here, glue and related trades. There is also the site of the original Brian Donkin factory where a number of important engineering concepts were developed in the early 19th. Much of the area is now housing but with many pubs, churches and organisations of social support.



Post to the north Bermondsey
Post to the west Walworth
Post to the south North Peckham
Post to the east Blue Anchor


Bagshot Street
37 Duke of York. Pub. Closed

Beaconsfield Road
Hour Glass pub and hotel

Bricklayers Arms
Flyover and junction.
Bricklayers Arms Station. Opened on 1st May 1844 by London and Croydon and S.E. Railways jointly in order to counter charges demanded by the Greenwich Railway for using London Bridge terminus. It was on the north east side of the Old Kent Road, south of the junction with Page’s Walk on the edge of the built-up area. It was on marshy land which had to be drained and raised and took its name from a local inn used as an intermediate coach stop. The line was laid out by William Cubitt, Engineer to the SER, and the station was designed by Lewis Cubitt - no relation. The contractors were Grissell and Peto. The last stages of the work was done in such a hurry that part of the station roof collapsed as men were nailing on the roof boarding and over 2,700 square yards of wood block paving were laid in the station forecourt in the three days before opening. There was a riot on the opening day of line and the station was very busy with significantly cheaper fares than journeys to London Bridge. However within a year both London and Croydon Companies stopped using it as the tolls to London Bridge were reduced. The station, which had been so busy for 84 days, went into terminal decline. In 1852 it closed and was converted into a goods depot – it had been open for seven years and eight months. It continued as a goods depot and loco shed for more than 100 years. In 1936 the frontage burnt down and was demolished and in 1983 goods operations ended. One remaining feature is four sandstone gate piers at the entrance. There is a considerable history to the various sheds and railway workings which took place on this site over a long period and repair and other work continued to take place until 1983 when work was transferred to Slade Green and Hither Green.
Archaeological digs on the site have found a timber platform, and stone Neolithic axes.

Burgess Park:
Lake of several acres.
Sculpture made by children from Cobourg school
Ice store –stood opposite the lake on north bank. Owned by Charles Newby who were also Billingsgate fish merchants. Closed 1920

Cobourg Road
31 oldest building in conservation area, 1800

Congreve Street
St.Mary Magdalene, 1842 demolished since 1950. By Ferrey

Cooper's Road
Peabody Estate, winning awards
23 Windsor Castle pub. Demolished 2004

Earl Road
The pattern of roads has completely changed in the area and the road has now gone - although some of its line may be reflected in internal roads in the trading estate and supermarkets on either side of Humphery Street. The name, however, appears to reflect that of Earl Sluice which turned course here to run east.

Fort Road
Suggestion of Cromwell's battlements
Havelock Arms

Grange Road
Fort Place. This name reflected the area of Grange Road near its junction with Southwark Park Road. It probably reflects a Civil War defensive structure here.
Brian Donkin’s Factory in Fort Place. This was originally to build a new Foudrinier paper machine. The work done at Dartford by Donkin was moved to Bermondsey in 1811 got the lease assigned to him after the Foudriniers had gone bankrupt. The works under successive members of the Donkin family became an important centre of engineering innovation – for example they also made preserved food to the Appert patents. The works closed in 1902 and the company moved to Chesterfield.
Bermondsey Health Centre. Built 1936 by H. Tansley. Modern brick front with angular corner windows. This belonged to the Metropolitan Borough of Bermondsey. Britain's first municipal solarium was here plus a variety of facilities including a foot clinic. infant welfare, ante-natal clinic, a tuberculosis centre, an electro-medical department, a dental clinic, an X-ray department and a laboratory for the public analyst.
Eonia Works. Atkinsons made perfume here.
4 Prockter & Bevington, manure and super phosphate
123 Spa Gelatine Works. B.Young & Co. The firm, which made gelantine, was formed in 1884 and Later acquired a glue and size works from Proctor and Bevington and in 1920 formed British Glue & Chemicals Ltd. About 3,5000 tons of Gelatine a year was produced in edible, photographic, pharmaceutical and technical grades – most of it low-grade edible 'Spa' gelatine. Taken over by Crodar Ltd. the factory closed in 1981 and the site was sold in 1982 for housing.
12
The Fort. Gay pub once called the ‘Royal Fort”

The Grange
Kintore Way Children’s Centre

Hendre Road
The South Eastern Railway depot lay along the southern edge of the Bricklayers Arms site parallel with the Old Kent Road with its own entrance in this road.
Brick gateway, on of the few remains of Bricklayers Arms Station

Mandela Way
A new road built through the centre of what was the Bricklayers Arms railway site, and running between Page’s Walk and Rolls Road, some of which it has taken in.
Bricklayers Arms Business Centre and warehousing by David Richmond & Partners. It is a long range of warehouse units cut in two by cycle track.

Marcia Road
Gallions housing scheme, replicating houses which were demolished.

Mason Street
Townsend Primary School

Oakley Place.
Chapel.Wesleyan Methodist. In 1900 became St Georges Methodist Church until 1981. Now Eternal Sacred Order of Cherubim and Seraphim.

Old Kent Road
Roman Road radiating from London Bridge. Long known as the resort of costermongers.
Earl Sluice. Rises near Denmark Hill, flowing into the River Thames at Deptford. Small stream now covered over which joins the Peck so named from the 1st Earl of Gloucester, illegitimate son of Henry I, who was given the manor of Peckham by his father.
106 John Edgington & Co. Ltd founded in 1805 and specialised in tent, rope and sail making. A plaque on their Old Kent Road shop front recorded: 'Hereabouts in 1552 was erected a tent of cloth of gold for King Henry VIII and Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, before their entry into the City of London'. The factory, which occupied an extensive space of ground, was built nearly all of wood. During the Second World War the company manufactured a variety of products including shrouds for civilian war dead and inflatable pontoons for salvage work. The shop was removed in 1967 to make way for the Bricklayers Arms flyover. The original shop front can be seen at Woburn Abbey.
148 Virgos night club -was previously the Frog and Nightgown.
152 Cinema Palace. gone
205 Marcia Court. Site of pub at one time called the Gin Palace but originally the Castle
215 Carter’s warehouse. George Carter & Sons Ltd was a men's clothing shop until 1978. In 1851 he had founded his business in a cottage in Russell Place where he made silk hats for the wholesale trade. He erected a showcase in the front garden, and a shop was built. He made coins like a gold sovereign with his profile on one side and trade mark on them and threw handfuls from the tops of the trams. Eventually the firm had 30 branches, a factory and a warehouse. A little man on the frontage used to raise his hat. It became a tyre shop, collapsed and has now gone
200 Burtons shop in other use
216 arcaded area at the rear. In the 19th ‘Help Yourself Coffee Palace Company
218-250 incorporating Searle's houses of 1784 onwards, much altered.
265 World Turned Upside Down. This was once the 'home' pub of London's Pearly Kings and Queens.
276 Yummies restaurant in the Green Man pub. French style cafe/pub still retaining the original bar from the 1860's when the pub was built. Original tiled floor and walls. Plush sofas and marble topped tables
275 Redeemed Church of Mount Zion in tiled building previously Wells Bros shop
279 Dun Cow pub, became Doctor's Surgery
288 Mascot Electric Theatre. Gone
306-312 Fire Station. Arts and Crafts, idiosyncratic. 1903. by the London County Council Architects Department. Red brick with Portland stone dressings. Ground floor in use as antique fireplace warehouse. Upper floors have model firemen waving to the passers by.
320 Noilias Art Gallery - Thomas a Becket, supposed to be haunted - also known as Thomas a Watering. Large pub with boxing theme. Live music most nights. Closed.
361 Joseph Falkner. Wholesale decorators merchants
Burgess Park Entrance
365 Old Kent Road Mosque in the old Duke of Kent pub
375 Wessex House worth a look by Peter Moro & Partners, 1971-somewhat in the idiom of James Stirling, bright red brick three storeys, with much canting and recessing of bays and balconies to shield flats from the traffic3. 1971, 1958/62 Bermondsey Estates 1563 good intentions spoiled by unappealing surfaces
383 Herbert Faulkner. Wholesale builders merchant
386 Lord Nelson. 1810, later additions
388 Nelson Electric Theatre
464-470 few remnants of early c 19 ribbon development
613 Regal Cinema. Crompton organ installed ABC 3-6 + Melotone. Gone
Deaf and Dumb Institute 1880s. On the south side between Townsend Street and Mason Street
Earl Sluice Watersplash on the Earl Sluice section in this area open until 1831Gallows
Memorial to Chaucer
Ormond House, corner Trafalgar Avenue. Home of Benjamin Hawes, senior, Governor Gas Light and Coke Co., and Mrs. Donkin daughter in law of Bryan.
Peckham Estate, 1972 Flats, London County Council,
Waleran Buildings, 100 years old
Bricklayer's Arms, now demolished, now just a bus stop near the flyover. The huge railway terminus was named after the pub.

Pages Walk
Pages Walk railway housing of the 1840s
Guinness Estate housing
Arcaded wall of the Willows Business Park
Statuary business of Abraham Staig, 1820
68 Victoria

Rolls Road
Rolls were a local family and developers.
Inwards Goods shed. At weekends when the goods depot was relatively excursion trains left from here. The shed was built in 1901. Later it was used as a carriage shed and eventually became a goods shed handling continental traffic and Huntley and Palmers biscuits from Reading

Rowcross Street
Southernwood Retail Park
Setchell Estate
Estate by Neylan & Ungless, for Southwark, 1972-8, of low-rise housing to be built inner London in the 1970s with nothing over three storeys. The houses with steeply pitched roofs and pale brick walls, with upper parts rendered tile-hung.
Tenants Hall with a very steep roof.
Southwark Park Road
An earlier name was Blue Anchor Road
52 Aranca
68 Rose and Crown, closed and now housing
Harris Academy
Alwyne School, 10 storey. clock, girls, 1965

Surrey Square.
This was another Rolls Estate development.
long terrace of 1793-4. The centrepiece has a pediment decorated with a fan. Some arched windows on the ground floor.
Surrey Square Junior School. Board School building
Church of the Lord (Aladura) 1959, replacing church of 1864 All Saints. Now 1959 by N. F. Cachemaille Day, replacing a church of 1864-5 by Parrisi Field, damaged in the Second World War. Some of Cachimaille Day's fittings now in St Peter, Liverpool Grove
Surrey Square Foundation Infant and Junior SchoolsSchool nature garden
5 Surrey Arms large and imposing. Closed

Willow Walk
Before the 19th Willow Walk was used by the tanning industry. A large plot of ground would have heaps of tan, and also skeleton frames 6 feet high. On shelves were put rectangular "tan-turf," which could be bought for fuel
Willow Walk goods depot for the London Brighton and South Coast Railway 1880. - The depot, separate from the main Bricklayers site was known as Willow Walk. Access for road vehicles was from Willow Walk. 1932, Southern Railway combined the two yards the alterations provided for Willow Walk depot to handle outwards traffic. Wall remains.
61 Tanner's Arms. Demolished and gone


Sources
Aldous. London Villages Beasley. Southwark Remembered
Beasley. Southwark Revisited
British Listed Buildings., Web site
Cherry & Pevsner. London South
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Codrington. London South of the Thames, 
Discused Statopms Web site
Donkin. History of Bran Donkin Co.
English Heritage. Web site
GLIAS. London's Industrial Archaelogy
GLIAS Walk and Newsletter
Humphery. Bermondsey and Rotherhithe Remembered
Ideal Homes. Web site 
London Archaeologist
London Borough of Southwark. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Nature Conservation in Southwark, Ecology Handbook 
Pub History. Web site
Southwark Lost Places of Worship. Web site.
Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London
Talling. London’s Lost Rivers
Walford. Village London. 

Monday, 22 March 2010

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice - North Peckham

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice
Earl Sluice is said to follow Albany Road

Post to the north Bricklayers
Post to the west Camberwell Road
Post to the east Peckham Park Road

Boathouse Way,
Old towpath on the Peckham Branch of the Grand Surrey Canal. It is a right of way and cannot be closed. There were once houses on it.

Burgess Park
This is the area of Walworth common and known for footpads
Created in the 1950s and 1960s it covers 135 acres and includes London's largest post-war lake. It began as North Camberwell Open Space, in 1965 it was St George's Park and eventually late 1960s Burgess Park named after Jessie Burgess, Camberwell's first woman mayor. In 1943 the Abercrombie plan put forward the opportunity to create a park out of a bomb sites. The park grew along the route of the Surrey Canal. Some fragmented pieces of green; they were at last linked up in 1980-2.
Grand Surrey Canal. The last barge was in 1945 and it was drained in 1960. It crossed Wells Way in an area now in the park. On the north bank was a coal wharf, which had once been the site of a brewery.
Old lime kiln. Thus was originally in Burtt's Yard and it is all that remains of Burtt's Limeworks which opened in 1816, soon after the Grand Surrey Canal was built. Originally raw materials were delivered to the kiln by barge. It was used to heat limestone and convert it into quicklime used in building cement.
Depression in the South East corner. Depression marks the site of the junction of Peckham branch of the canal built in 1826.
Trafalgar Bridge. Tolls were collected here from Offices on the north bank west of the bridge. 'Grand Surrey Canal House' was here until the 1930s
Chumleigh Multicultural Gardens: based around the Almshouses of the Friendly Female Society Estate 1821 and later bits 1844/47. A plaque on the building used to read: 'The Friendly Female Asylum for aged persons who have seen better days. Erected and supported by voluntary contributions 1821. In 1871 the almshouses had forty-one residents. It is a range of brick houses around which gardens have been built, plus the headquarters of the Parks Ranger Service. Most British gardens contain plants from many different countries. Plants can provide a means of learning about different cultures. A walled garden was built here in the hope that its shelter would provide a micro-climate for some of the less hardy plants. Visitors can discover the origins of plants they see daily – for instance in the African and Caribbean Garden the species such as tree ferns, bamboos and large leafed plants. In the Islamic Garden, the pond makes a geometric centrepiece with a feather palm in the middle. There is also a Vegetable Garden, with raised beds to demonstrate the ways different food plants and herbs are used and grown by specific cultures

Chumleigh Street
Rawlings mineral water works there in the 1890s

Cobourg Road
Named for Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, who married Princess Charlotte, the daughter of George IV.
99 New Peckham Turkish Mosque. In St.Mark’s. part designed by Norman Shaw but not completed until 1932. Hall-church with octagonal brick piers and wooden vaults: The woodwork was of pine, stained green.
Football Foundation, Burgess Park Fields
Cobourg Community Primary SchoolRosett Place. Stark late Georgian houses 1822

Coleman Road
2 Acorns retro-eco-house. The only retro-zero carbon house in London. Sustainable features on 5 eco technologies.
14 St.George's Tavern. Built about 1800. Old photos on the walls. The Cellar, stairs and passageway are said to be haunted by the mother-in-law of a former licensee, who died as a result of a fall in the cellar many years ago. May be closed
Trinity College Centre

Commercial Way
Bradfield Community and Youth Centre
Ornamental wrought-iron bridge 1872 over the Grand Surrey Canal.

Cottage Green
Cottage Green Chapel
Rainbow cottage, Robert Browning's birthplace. Plaque on the corner of the street

Cowan Street
Site is now inside the park east of Chumleigh Gardens
Watkins & Co Ltd factory. They were Book Binders who bound Bibles for the British and Foreign Bible Society. The factory was bombed during the Second World War but was rebuilt. The firm closed down in 1977.

Cunard Street
Site is now inside the park, it ran parallel with Wells Way north of Neate Street
R. White's main mineral water factory is in the street.

Davey Street
Site of All Saints Church. This was built in 1894 and was a gift of the Gooch family in memory of Charles Cubitt Gooch. After the Second World War it was demolished, taken to Biggin Hill and rebuilt there

Glengall Road
Grand Surrey Canal. The canal route to Peckham here is east of the junction with Camberwell Branch. The site of the depot became a playground.
Derwent Wharf South of playground. Used for packing cases and wood
Terrace houses villas with giant pilasters. Especially worthwhile pairs linked by shallow arches, two storeys above basements
41 Glengall Arms. Pub now flats
49-53 Polyester Converters Ltd
57 Kofo House, Gadmon
62 site of Edison Bell works, gramophone records made there,
Chubb's lock and safe works.

Glengall Terrace
The same motifs on houses occur as in Glengall Road c. 1843-5

Gloucester Grove Estate
The Estate was designed and built by the Greater London Council in the 1970s. It was then over 1000 properties chained by a series of corridors. In the 1990’s much of the estate was redeveloped and garden and play areas were added plus glass atriums as entrances. Since then more blocks have been demolished and is now only half its original size.

Grand Surrey Canal
Conception by Ralph Dodd who was replaced as engineer by John Rowe in 1802. Only three miles were built when the promoters diverted their attention to the Surrey Docks. The branch to Peckham was added in 1825

Havil Street
Was originally called Workhouse Lane

Herring Street
St.Alban RC 1903 by F. W. Tasker. Romanesque.
R.W.White mineral water factory.
sheepskin factory

Hordle Promenade
Murder of Damilola Taylor.

Neate Street
Goes through Burgess Park

Newent Close.
Enclave of restored early c19 white stucco villas

North Peckham Estate:
Built by Camberwell Met. Borough & Southwark London Borough in 1969. With deck systems and car parks. Seen as enlightened at the time but they became notorious walkways and cramped courtyards. It was at the time an ambitious piece of redevelopment designed in 1965. It had 400 flats in five storey blocks with second floor decks. No towers but it soon became hated.

Peckham Grove
67-69 Samuel Jones gummed paper factory. Was on the Southampton Way corner. A Camberwell Beauty butterfly was removed from the top of the factory before it was demolished in 1982. In 1865 Samuel purchased property in Peckham Grove and built a small factory at the bottom of his garden at 67 and These houses became part of the site for the factory. In 1886 gumming of paper in reel form was started and in 1924 the firm was awarded the contract for gumming British postage stamps and undertook this in Watford.

Pentridge Street
Redevelopment of Farnborough Way
St.Luke 1953, begun by A. C. Martin, completed by Milner & Craze. Large, brick, neo-Byzantine, with central crossing tower and apse.

Sedgmoor Place
Aged Pilgrims House. 1837 hidden among 1970s flats terraces. Two storeys of brick, with embattled gatehouse. Inside is a quadrangle with a monument to the founder, William Peacock, in the centre. For the purpose of giving life-pensions of ten guineas and five guineas per annum to poor, aged, and infirm Protestants of either sex, and of every denomination. Now converted to flats as Pilrgrim Cloisters
67 Marlborough. Has become and art gallery and music venue

St.George's Way
231 George pub. Gone

Southampton Way
Once called Rainbow Lane
Stephen Lawrence House. Housing on site of the Rosemary Branch
Rosemary Branch. The pub had acres of pleasure grounds around it which included Horse racing, cricket, pigeon shooting and all kinds of outdoor sports. The first recorded balloon ascent in Peckham took place from here in 1847... By 1875 the grounds had been almost entirely covered with houses. In the 1890s it was a music hall known as Peckham Theatre of Varieties. Demolished in the 1970s.
179 plaque to Robert Browning. Poet, born and brought up locally.

Sumner Road
The Apple Tree pub.

Trafalgar Avenue
Christ Apostolic Church of Mount Zion

Victoria Place

Wells Way
What better inner city view could there be than church, canal, ornate bridge, trees, and boats.
Public baths. Built 1902 by Maurice Adams. A picturesque group with Baroque porch, Gothic gable, Tudor window and a Queen Anne bay-window. Typical of 1900. The Camberwell Beauty butterfly made from coloured tiles is on the side of the old wash-house. It came from the top of the Samuel Jones factory in Peckham Grove.
Library. Funded by Passmore Edwards and designed by Maurice Adams in 1902 along with the baths and wash house
Coal wharf area was alongside the church
Camberwell Library grounds. Open space maintained by the Vestry of Camberwell
Canal Bridge, pretty cast iron railings - also baths, well, lively, 1902 picturesque and typical of 1900. Demolished in 1973. No here bridge originally and road built for the crossing. Underpass for the canal walkway with trees for the Jubilee in 1977 1822
Flying Dutchman
St.George's Church. This is the oldest Anglican church in Camberwell. Built in 1822/4 as a replica of St.John's Waterloo Road. It was closed at the end of 1972, but kept as a focal point for the park. It was built in 1822-4 by Francis Bedford, It originally stood alongside the Surrey Canal close to a bridge. The church was converted in 1993 into thirty one-bedroom flats, built around a central courtyard.
A windmill stood close to the church when it was built among
St.George’s Churchyard. Managed by Vestry of Camberwell
War memorial bronze of 1918 is by Arild Rosenkrantz.
The Well Community Church

Willowbrook Road
Willowbrook Bridge. Was called Taylor’s Bridge. - Ornamental wrought-iron 1870
Milepost - the only survivor is north of the bridge on the old towpath.
48 on canal bank 1826. 1985 restored as Urban Studies Centre. Garden part of public open space
Willowbrook Wharf on both sides of the canal. Mr. Highland with firewood and sewer construction
Hectors. Closed pub
Glengall Tavern

Friday, 19 March 2010

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice - Camberwell Road

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice
Earl Sluice is said to flow north down Camberwell Road until Albany Road, when it turns north east.
TQ 32590 77545

Essentially a residential area on the borders of Walworth and Camberwell. The area includes the remains of the Surrey Canal and its industrial hinteland, now largely turned into a park. Schools, pubs and brutalist estates, often now replaced.


Post to the west Kennington
Post to the north Walworth
Post to the east North Peckham
Post to the south Camberwell

Addington Square,
First built 1810 with a formal centre.  It was named after, Prime Minister, Henry Addington.
Burgess Park Entrance. Gate pillars inscribed 1910-1936, at the entrance to what was in 1936 a small recreation ground called King George’s Field. The site had previously been a wharf, baths, and vestry depot.
The path into the park from this entrance goes between what would have been the site of the baths and a small basin, which were part of Clarence Wharf. The way ahead would have been blocked by the Grand Surrey Canal.
Vestry Depot. Shown on earlier plans as a Stone Yard with a crane.
Basin - On the north side of the canal opposite the Vestry. This was larger and surrounded by wharves.
Surrey Stone Wharf. Would have been to the west of the gates.
Camberwell Wharf, later called Goodyear Place, would have been adjacent to the gates to the west
Addington Wharf, also to the west was a narrow strip at the end of the Grand Surrey Canal fronting onto the main road. It was built in order to allow the canal to be continued westwards in the future.

Albany Road
The road marks the southern border of Walworth Common. The Earl sluice divided Camberwell and Rotherhithe and it is the county boundary. The Road was laid out through fields soon after the Grand Surrey Canal was opened in 1801-10.
Grand Surrey Canal – wharves on this stretch, were Stone Wharf. Memel Firewood Wharf, this was a timber yard if only for firewood. Albany Wharf. Baltic Wharf for timber on the north bank of canal for the whole of the first section.
V2 18 December 1945. 17 killed, 60 injured. 6.54pm
339 William IV. The last pub on a road that once had many. Now all covered with white guk and flower paintings.
401 Prince Alfred - gone

Bantry Street
Dining Hall for Brunswick Park School, by Stirling & Gowan, 1961-2, white brick with three huge windows, rearing up out of a green lawn, like a waterworks gone berserk – says Ian Nairn.

Benhill Road
Benhill Road Nature Garden. On the site of a bomb site later used for post war prefabs. There is grassland and pond. Local people and school staff cleared it. There was a ceremonial peppercorn presentation. Roughland. Flowers.

Bethwin Road
It was previously Avenue Road
1 warehouse conversion to flats
5 Lord Clyde. Gone, site is now flats

Burgess Park
One entrance into the park was from Addington Square. Plans for a new park had been proposed in the Forshaw and Abercrombie plan of 1943. This was the first area to be cleared for the park in the 1960s - between Addington Square and Albany Road Areas were cleared or added to be called North Camberwell Open Space, The Grand Surrey Canal closed in 1971. -renamed Burgess Park in 1974 after a local civic family.
Lime kiln. Built of brick left in the park. There had been a lime works here in the earliest years of the canal. The works which used this kiln closed in 1916 and the name of Burt, the kiln operator, remained as that of a small turning, since gone.

Camberwell Road
Shopping parades of 1906-8 plus 20th rebuilding
Addington Terrace. Called after Henry Addington PM 1801.
Addington Wharf - at the West end of the Grand Surrey Canal fronting on to the road
Earl Sluice crossed the road at the Albany Road junction which was called Walworth Bridge
Clubland church. Built on the site of Walworth Wesleyan chapel by Michael Searles opened in 1813. Clubland church was due to Revd James Butterworth who started a boys club here in 1922. The chapel was opened in 1929 and later a gym, theatre, studio and workshops were added. It was bombed flat in 1941.It was eventually rebuilt and opened again in 1964. Walworth Methodist Church
47 Bar in 30s block. Was previously the Fountain a Traditional large two-bar pub.
86 three Coade stone medallions from Dr. Lettsom's House. . A former stonemason's premises, with stuccoed front, pilasters,
134 Churchmead, Bishopsmead, some of Neylan & Ungless's plain but ingenious low-rise housing for Southwark, 1967-71, makes the best of a bad site. Two parallel three-and four-storey ranges facing some grass, with well hidden upper private patios
181 Carib bar was the Duke of Clarence
188 Castle.Modern two-bar pub built into a block of flats.
242 Nag's Head Grand Met with classic Truman tiled exterior.

Councillor Street
Calvary Temple United Pentecostal Church. Dated 1891. Arcaded porch and tower with open belfry in front of a brick church

Crown Street
part of Horsman Street, late Chatham Street.

Edmund Street
78 St.Michael's Eritrean Orthodox church. Was previously the Rose pub.

Elmington Estate
Flats and development and the miscellaneous results of slum clearance: taller series of slabs developed 1956 by the Greater London Council.
Pied Piper – brick and stone patterns on the wall of the caretaker’s house. Will Soukop 1969

Empress Street
Late Princes Street.

Fielding Street
Previously Olney Street

Grosvenor Terrace
Late Brunswick terrace
189 Grosvenor Arms. Closed

John Ruskin Street
Walworth Road Station 1st May 1863 London Chatham and Dover Railway. Opened as Camberwell Gate Station. On the north side of John Ruskin Street – then called Beresford Street. Line from Herne Hill was called the Metropolitan Extension and was intended to continue on to Farringdon. There had been a big campaign in the local press to get this station opened. In 1865 it was renamed Walworth Road. In 1916 it closed using the war as an excuse – but the real reason was lack of revenue and competition from more convenient trams.
18 Station Tavern. Gone
John Ruskin Primary School

Knatchbull Road
49 Prince of Wales

Lomond Grove
Was previously George Street
Peabody housing 1974
99-103 Bizspace in a converted bakery (which I think must be the brewery)
Salvation Army – small church but there was a barracks here.
Jam factory
Brewery
Sunlight laundry
New Church Road
28 Admiral Codrington. Gone
83 Anchor and Hope. Gone
Evelina Mansions. “Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Company Ltd”, Established by a Jewish philanthropic organisation,

Pitman Street
St Joseph's Primary School, plain Queen Anne, by Leonard Stokes, 1909

Picton Street
Brunswick Park Primary School built 1915
The British Queen

Sondes Street
Late Smith Street.

Southampton Way
54b Brewers Pub

Westmoreland Road
Linking Walworth and Old Kent roads thoroughfares flanked by borough council and ex-L.C.C. housing estates
33 Bricklayers Arms

Wyndham Estate
Between the two main roads. G.L.C. estate covers the area of what was one of Camberwell's worst 19th slums. The tower blocks of 1962-4 mark the shift to the brutalist style in the L.C.C.'s Architect's Department.

Wyndham Road
98 Windmill Pub. Gone.
Archbishop Michael Ramsey C of E Secondary School, 1971-5 by T. Ford & Partners. includes the rebuilt parish church of St Michael as part of the school buildings and it is near the road, with a spire filled with coloured glass. In the entrance hall a Coade stone Charity Boy of 1785, originally from Lambeth Ragged Schools.

Sources
Archbishop Michael Ramsay School. Web site
Boast. The Story of Camberwell
Clunn. The Face of London
Dearden. John Ruskin’s Camberwell
Disused Stations. Web site
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS. Newsletter
London Encyclopaedia
Nairn. Nairn's London
Nature Conservation in Southwark
Pevsner and Cherry. South London
Retracing Canals Croydon to Camberwell
St, Joseph's School. Web site
Walworth Methodist Church. Web site

Thursday, 18 March 2010

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice - Camberwell

Thames Tributary Earl Sluice
Earl Sluice is said to run down Denmark Hill northwards towards Albany Road
TQ 32966 76664

Camberwell centre - busy shopping area plus the remains of an old centre round the Green with posh houses, mostly now gone.  Many pubs, and many gone, along with cinemas, bus garages and churches of all sorts of obscure demoninations and charities.



Post to the west Brixton and Stockwell
Post to the north Camberwell
Post to the south Denmark Hill

Artichoke Lane
Camberwell Baths. Building with a many-storeyed red brick front looking a bit like a theatre. There are two pools, one of which was used as a dance hall. With a big striped brick and shaped gable. Built in 1891 they are the earliest surviving public baths by Henry Spalding and Alfred WS Cross who came to specialise in this type. 1891 of work Opened on 1 October 1892 by the Lord Mayor of London. The first plunge in Camberwell Baths was taken by boys from neighbouring School Board of London Schools. There is an original pay box in the lobby and also the floor tiles and stained glass 'Public Baths' sign. Inside, the pool hall has elaborate balcony fronts. Renovation work and upgrading is under way.

Benhill Road
161 St Giles Centre, on the site of the vicarage, built in 1967. A traditional Church Hall building.
Summer house in the Garden of the old vicarage contains stones from the mediaeval church and a notice explains this.
44 home of John Noldwritt, Custom House Agent and lecturer, Secretary of the Walworth Literary Institute 1891
50 British Lion

Brunswick Park
Brunswick Park, a small garden of flowerbeds, trees and shrubs.

Camberwell
‘Cambrewelle’ 1086 in the Domesday Book. ‘Cambyrwell’ 1154, ‘Camerewdle’ 1199, ‘Camberwelle’ 1241, from Old English ‘wella’ - 'spring or stream' with an obscure first element, possibly an early borrowed form of Latin camera "vault, room' in allusion to a building or other structure at the spring.

Camberwell Church Street
Forms a major shopping thoroughfare
St.Giles Church. Built on the site of an Anglo-Saxon church, recorded in the Domesday Book. St Giles is said to have been a seventh-century hermit who lived in a cave in the south of France and is the patron saint of cripples. The church was burnt down in 1841. This new building was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and Moffett as the result of a competition. Here Scott used 'real' materials, and so details were all in stone but the tracery is cut by machine. It was finished in 1844. Inside is a window of violet coloured glass designed by John Ruskin and Edward Oldfield, another window is medieval German glass imported by the vicar in the 1840's Morris windows were destroyed in the war. There are 14th sedalia and piscina from the old church. . Brasses: 15th knight and kneeling couples with children. Monument: Masterman f. 1927 lettering by Eric Gill; tablet to Captain A. Nairne 1866, by Gaffin. The organ was made by J.C. Bishop and designed by Samuel Sebastian Wesley, grandson of Charles Wesley.
Churchyard. Benedictine Monks held fairs held there. Burials include J.Wesley, wife, Lucy Warner and H.Blake. It is enclosed by old brick walls and mature tree cover
25 Funky Munky one-bar pub, formerly the Artichoke.
28 Hermit's Cave. Became a Hogshead pub. The external windows have etched panels. Semicircular bar with partial division.
65 The Castle. Was Stirling Castle
134-67 Camberwell Buildings, making best of a bad site
Wilson's Grammar School for boys. Built 1882 in red brick with stone dressings. It was designed by E.R. Robson, architect of the London School Board. Wilson's Grammar School was Camberwell's first known school. Under Royal Charter in 1615 by Edward Wilson, Vicar of St Giles's, to teach local boys, including twelve children of poor parents, Latin and Greek. A lawsuit by a Camberwell parishioner in 1843 went in favour of the governors, but the school had to pay costs. And the school had to close in 1845. The school re opened in 1882 in these new buildings close to the site of the old schoolhouse. In 1975 Wilson's Grammar School moved to Sutton. Wilson's Annexe of Camberwell College of Arts now uses it
22 Police Station, 1898. Arts and Crafts style, with a bold stone hood over the doorway. The freehold site was purchased in 1894. The land had been owned by the Metropolitan Board of Works.

Camberwell Green,
Camberwell Green is recorded as ‘Camerwell grene’ in 1572 Camberwell Fair was held here every year and lasted for weeks but Later it was only three days and was simply entertainment. It was abolished in 1855. Mendelssohn’s ‘Spring Song’ is said to have been written here. Local individuals fund raised and in 1856, the Lord of the Manor conveyed the green and the rights of the fair for £1,250 to William Wild, Frank Clarke Hills, and Charles Milhouse and they then sold the Green to the Parish.
Green Coat and National School
15-18 with big window with fan motif,
7-13, an early 19th terrace
29 Tiger – was the Silver Buckle but now returned to original name. Concrete stripped off the front
Camberwell Green Care Home
Parkside Medical Centre
Job Centre
Camberwell Green Surgery in building of 1899 for London and County Bank by A. Williams, in the Edwardian Baroque style with a corner tower like a town hall. Site of an earlier police station 1820-1893. Plaque over the door shows Mercury as the god of commerce plus thrift.

Camberwell Grove
Camberwell Grove, on the site of Camberwell Tea Gardens, is called simply ‘The Grove’ in 1816. A straight, avenue with trees and late Georgian terraces. It was built as a private avenue behind the mansion of the Cock family was built after this was sold in 1776.
26 Grove House Tavern Large two-bar pub. Called “The Grove”
35 garden, backing onto the church. A lot of colour, pots and an Artist's studio.
83 plant lovers' garden with formal of box hedging. Gravel and York stone paths
Camberwell Collegiate School Lower Spring Field, on the principles of King's College. Building 1834, by Henry Roberts. 1867 closed, and the land sold for building
Mary Datchelor School for Girls, a public school founded in 1877 and now with 650 pupils. Demolished for housing.

Camberwell New Road
St.James School next door to the tram depot and bombed. Eventually became part of the tram depot when it was rebuilt.
315 Juno’s Snooker Club was the Grand Cinema. The New Grand Hall was originally built as a function hall and for roller skating. It opened in 1909. In 1949 it became the Grand Cinema, was taken over by the Essoldo Cinemas group in 1954. It closed in 1968 and was converted to bingo hall and later snooker.
St Mary’s. Cathedral since 1977 of the Greek Orthodox Church. Built in 1873 for the Catholic Apostolic Church by Belcher. There is a tiny cloister and numerous church rooms as required by them. The church behind was large but was bombed so that part of the nave is now a small courtyard. After the Second World War the Catholic Apostolic Church had a congregation here until 1961 but The Greek Orthodox Church took it over in 1963 on a peppercorn rent and bought it in 1977.
296a The Bear pub. Was once called ‘The Station’
332 Athenaeum. Pub now in use as a shop, with a big clock outside
Southwark City Learning Centre
Sacred Heart R.C. Secondary School. Church rebuilt in 1953 by D. Plaskett Marshall. Built so as to baffle noise from the railway . Red-brick-faced buildings with black painted floor bands, by Hudson & Hammond, 1959.
283 King William IV. Built by A E Sewell for Truman’s, 1932; brick and faience exterior. Tiled fascia with lettering: 'LONDON STOUT ... OFF LICENCE ... BURTON ALES ... LONDON STOUT ... BURTON ALES'. At first floor level, two stone panels with the Truman 'eagle' trademark in a roundel and 'TRUMANS ... ESTd. 1666'
Walworth Bus Garage. Opened for horse trams 1871 as Camberwell Tram Depot and converted to electric trams in 1903. There were two horse car depots, one facing Camberwell Green, and one on Camberwell New Road, which were at right angles to each other and there were traversers between them. They were originally completely separate. Brakes had to be checked every two days because of Dog Kennel Hill so 45 pits had to be available every night. This was the original London County Council tram depot, 1891. It was the Head office of Tramway Co and became London County Council trams’ head office. Renamed Walworth in 1950. Proved very difficult to rebuild in the 1950s. Rebuilt in 1954 and included offices for bodie3s like the Sports Association. Still in use by private operators.
325 Camberwell Provident Dispensary old shop with tall chimneys in Camberwell New Road has a plaque stating: FOUNDED 1862. REBUILT BY VOLUNTARY CONTRIBUTIONS 1880.CHARLES DRUCE PRESIDENT. OTTO A. BENECKE TREASURER. This was the Camberwell Provident Dispensary, to help poor people within one-and-quarter miles of St Giles's church; to encouraged forethought and independence. Has become an Irish pub

Camberwell Road
262 Gala Bingo. The Regal Cinema opened in 1940. Initially it was project of D.J. James and to be called the Florida Cinema, but was sold to Associated British Cinemas before it was finished. It was one of the largest suburban cinemas in London in Art Deco style. The splay walls beside the proscenium opening had fluted columns, upon which were mounted slender glass light fittings and there was a decorative grille in the centre of the columns. Within weeks of opening, in it was closed by bomb damage but re-opened. In 1961 it was re-named ABC and closed in 1973.It was converted into a Bingo Hall until 2010, when it was closed and sold to a church. Grade II Listed.
319 The Red Star Bar. Was the Father Redcap and a music hall pub. Rebuilt 1853

Camberwell Station Road
Camberwell Station. 1862. Built by the London Chatham and Dover Railway. The Station was on the west side of Camberwell Station Road. In 1863 the name was changed to Camberwell New Road. In 1908 the name changed to Camberwell. In 1916 it was closed. In 1990s street level building the street building was still there and used by car mechanics.

Champion Park
Champion name dates from 1823 and commemorates the family of Philip Champion de Crespigny who died at Champion Lodge, now demolished, in 1765. The area formed part of the De Crespigny Estate and was developed around Champion Lodge on Denmark Hill from c. 1840.
William Booth Memorial College. Salvation Army Training College. Buildings of the William Booth Memorial Training College erected in 1929. It has a facade of red brick with stone dressings and a 200 ft tall square central tower. This towering structure was designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott a landmark which can be seen many miles. They wanted a tower as high as the cross on St Paul's Cathedral which would be permanently illuminated to shine over the slums of London. Unfortunately it was not finished for the opening. It houses 400 students and covers nine acres. It was opened on 8 July 1929 for William Booth's 100th birthday on the most prominent site they could get.
Booth statues. Bronzes by G.E.Wade for the centenary of their births. William in a frogged frock coat with the motif of blood and fire. 'Promoted to glory'. Produced by the Morris Art Foundry. Unveiled by Duke of Kent 1929.

Coldharbour Lane
Mentioned as ‘Cool Harbour lane’ in 1787, is named from ‘Coldherbergh’ 1363. This was probably transferred from the medieval tenement so called in the City, situated on the Thames just west of London Bridge, and was acquired in 1317 by Sir John Abel who also came into possession of the Camberwell property. The Camberwell Beauty butterfly was first recorded here in 1748.
61 Sun and Doves. Plush 'cocktail bar' style lounge contrasts with traditional Public bar
Daily Times house Ash-Shahada Housing Association Limited
Denmark Place Baptist Church. The church was designed by Mr. Burrell and built by Mr. Humphries, cost £3,700, and was opened in 1825. Alterations were made in 1869. It is a plain stock brick building. The centre arch says A.D. 1823”. 66 Amaryllis Bar And Kitchen. Previously Jack Beard at the Plough
116 Wilson (Sloane Street) catering meat suppliers
120 derelict bakery
129 Coldharbour lane industrial estate
The Camberwell Foyer and Nando's restaurant. Site of Theatre Metropole built to bring West End successes to Camberwell. It had an ornate interior with private boxes. The name was changed to the Empire and in 1937 it was demolished to become an Odeon cinema. The Odeon was by Andrew Mather. And closed in 1975 with The Night Porter. The building then became a Dickie Dirts clothing warehouse.

Crawford Street
Crawford Primary School. The school is in four buildings the largest of which was built in 1884. An extension was built in 1972-5 by Roger Wilkes. Of by the I.L.E.A. Architect's Department. The “caretaker’s house” has been converted into the Sybil Phoenix Centre for pupils at risk of exclusion

Denmark Hill
Named from the hunting lodge of Prince George of Denmark, Queen Anne's husband. Runs south from Camberwell Green. Previously called Camberwell High Street.
35 Joiners Arms. Features in films 'Nil by Mouth’.
Maudsley Hospital. Built for the treatment of mental disorders, by Dr. Henry Maudsley who gave £30,000 towards its cost and bequeathed £70,000 to it in his will for research Through the London County Council. The Maudsley opened in 1923 and treated patients on a voluntary basis. On the site are Georgian houses with an administration building, and wards in red brick. The hospital was extended several times before the Second World War. The medical school became part of the University of London and it amalgamated with Bethlem Hospital as the Institute of Psychiatry.
Kings College Hospital. Founded in 1839 by Kings College, and moved here in 1913. The foundation stone was laid in 1909, and it was built in 1909-13 by W. A. Pite, with a new wing by Collcutt & Hamp, 1937. Dental hospital and school built 1965, and a nine-storey ward block 1965-8 by George Trewby Dunn.
Statue to Sir Robert Bentley Todd 1860. Moved with the hospital in 1913.
Chapel with late 19th stained glass from the former hospital. Foundation stone from 1909 and inscriptions by Eric Gill.
Grammar School once situated in extensive grounds, near the point which now forms the junction of ColdHarbour Lane. It was a handsome structure of red and white bricks, with dressings of Portland stone, and the grounds were enclosed by a high brick wall facing Denmark Hill
Camberwell Palace. The Oriental Palace of Varieties was built in 1896, at the corner of Orpheus Street, by Dan Leno. In 1899 it was rebuilt as the Camberwell Palace of Varieties with seating for 3,000. It was designed by E.A.E. Woodrow for. Gray Hill of Coventry. It n closed in 1956. Features in films 'Pool of London’.
Golden Domes Cinema on the site of Kwiksave, later known as the Rex and then as the Essoldo.
Bijou cinema on the site of the Post Office known to locals as the Bye Joe

Denmark Road
Tower Mint.Tower Heritage Centre
110 Denmark Pub. closed

D’Eynsford Road
Magistrates' Court, facing a plaza off Camberwell Green. 1965-9. Large stone building with green tinted windows. Features in films 'Different for Girls’.
D'Eynsford Estate. By Clifford Culpin & Partners, 1971-8, one of Southwark's first large low-rise estates of the 1970s (365 dwellings), almost aggressive in its use of vernacular motifs. Rugged tiled roofs with big projecting eaves, generous balconies, and intricate pathways between tiny walled back gardens.

Flaxman Road
132 Little John. One bar estate pub, display of old Camberwell and Brixton photographs on walls

Grove Lane
Developed similarly to Camberwell Grove but is now more bitty. Pleasing thoroughfare, which runs south from Camberwell Church Street to an area of tree-lined roads. Victorian houses and relics of large tree-clad estates of former years.
16 Le Petit Parisien. This was the Kerwell Arms Pub, latterly called the Dark Horse
The Grove pub. Run by Youngs. Mock Queen Anne building in red brick on a brown brick background
United Reform Church
17 Mary Datchelor House. Mary Datchelor School. The school opened in 1877 and stood on the site of a medieval manor house. In the 18th Mary, Beatrix and Sarah Datchelor left money to the 'poor inhabitants' near their home in the City of London. In 1871 the Datchelor Charity established a girls' school here. In 1881 new classrooms, a hall, library and museum were added and it was taken over by the Clothworkers' Company. The school closed in 1981. Save the Children Fund used it for a long time, but have now moved and most of the site has been demolished.
Lyndhurst Primary School – was Denmark Hill School - opened in 1905
39 Camberwell Hall built in 1748 as a pub but now a house. Used in the 19th as a meeting place. It was part of Grove House, an out of town pub for young people. There were extensive gardens and an assembly room. From 1861 part of the building for his business was used for the manufacture of parquetry. In 1984 Camberwell Hall was a carpet-laying warehouse, with a health club in the assembly rooms. It was bought in 1986 by a sculptor who lowered the space in front to restore it to its original look.
Lava Rink. An early specially built roller-skating rink opened in 1876 in a large iron building on the east side opposite Denmark Hill station. It was called the Lava Rink because the floor was made of lava from Vesuvius. The first English game of roller hockey was played here in 1885. In the 1914-1918 war, the rink became a military depot. It was burnt down in the 1920s.
Warner Road
97 Rose and Thistle
Camberwell Bus Depot. On the corner of Camberwell New Road,. Opened in June 1914 but effectively only opened in July 1919. Body overhaul work in 1940. New self contained dock unit in 1951. Still in operation in private use.

Windsor Walk
Denmark Hill Station. 1st December 1865. Between Peckham Rye and Elephant and Castle and also Victoria on South East Trains. Between Peckham Rye and Clapham High Street on Southern Trains. It was opened to serve mainly as a commute station on the line between Victoria and London Bridge and although main line trains from Victoria ran through it they didn't stop. Built by the London Brighton and South Coast Railway. It has two storeys, in heavily modelled Italianate, but with French pavilion roofs, straddling a leafy cutting which made it visible from all sides. It was designed by W. Jacomb Hood. There were domed roofs at each end and a central pavilion, which was kitted out with mahogany seat and open fireplaces, with two ticket offices for the two railway companies that used the Station –other was the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. In 1980 it was gutted by fire by vandals who were never caught and the central pavilion was very badly burnt; the roof was destroyed and the walls were damaged. In 1984 The Camberwell Society, Southwark Environment Trust and British Rail worked together to restore the station and included a new pub - the Phoenix and Firkin. The whole project was supported by John Betjeman Poet Laureate, who described Denmark Hill station as 'a very fine Victorian thing'. The pub was initially called the Phoenix and Firkin to commemorate the fire, then called O'Neills and now known as the Phoenix. A Civic Trust award was given to the building in 1986. The platforms are below road level and there is a short tunnel at one end of the platforms, and road bridge at the other.
German Lutheran church was opened in 1855. It was built on land belonging to Sir Claude de Crespigny. The church was big enough to seat about 300 people. Services were conducted entirely in German. The clergyman had to be ordained by the German Protestant church, and was elected by the members for life. Everyone who subscribed for one year had a vote. The gas fittings were very decorative. The church was vacated by the German congregation in 1914. From the 1920s it was used by Open Brethren who called it Beresford church.
Addiction Sciences Building


Sources
Boast. The Story of Camberwell
Camberwell College. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Dearden. John Ruskin’s Camberwell
Field. London Place Names
Glazier. London Transport Garages
Hermits Cave. Web site
London Borough of Southwark, Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Mary Datchelor School. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. South London
Sacred Heart School. Web site
St. Giles. Web site
St.Mary's Cathedral. Web site
Salvation Army. Web site