Saturday, 31 March 2012

Pymmes Brook - Arnos Grove

Pymmes Brook
Pymmes Brook continues to flow south eastwards and is met by Bounds Green Brook from the south west

A suburban area east of New Southgate it is crossed by the North Circular which changes route slightly here. The non-North Circular section of Bowes Road has shops and public facilities including one of Holden's most famous stations on the Piccadilly Line which runs north:south here. The northern part of the area is covered by Arnos Park, with a viaduct on the underground line crossing Pymmes Brook and some remains of the original line of the 17th century New River.

Post to the south Bounds Green
Post to the north Old Southgate
Post to the east Broomfield Park

Arnos Grove
Named from an estate called ‘Arnoldes Grave’ in the mid 16th.  The Arnold family is noted in documents from the 14th.
In the 1920s the Arnos Grove estate was owned by Lord Inverforth who wanted to develop it – and the result, Arnos Grove and surrounding roads, emerged from interactions between Inverforth and the local authority.

Arnos Park
The park is made up of the remaining bit of grounds of Arnos Grove. It was opened in 1928 to the public following a deal between the council and the developer. It was developed lout of 44 acres of woodland and meadow and designed by Borough surveyor Robert Phillips
New River. The original course of the conduit ran through the area of the park. There is now no trace of it except for a line of shrubs and trees half way up the slope between Pymmes Brook and the northern boundary of the park. This indicates the position of the old loop of the river. Nearby to the trees is a clump of trees with a ditch running through them.  The river must have crossed Pymmes Brook somewhere near the Piccadilly Line viaduct.
Railway – the Piccadilly Line crosses the park and Pymmes Brook on a 348 yard curving brick viaduct made up of thirty-five arches.

Betsyle Road
Betsyle was the name of a small village in this area.

Bowes Road
Part of Bowes Road in this section is the North Circular Road
Arnos Arms half-timbered with its frontage angled across a corner. Now a Harvester, reviews aren’t encouraging.
Bowes Primary School. Built by Edmonton School Board in 1901 It is a three-decker school on a small site. Has a pretty cupola
Library and pool complex. .c Built for Middlesex County Council by Cunis & Burchett in 1939 but refurbished. A stylish brick group complementing Arnos Grove Station just down the road.  The complex includes a caretaker's flat and there is also a slightly later clinic.
Arnos Pool. There is a single single-storey block for changing rooms with circular port-hole window. The pool is lit through a range of windows alternating with ventilators. Inside is an oval roof light with plaster modelling to represent waves. Rolled steel joists support the roof.
Arnos Library. The first-floor library is reached via a curved concrete stair, lit by a slender bowed oriel window. A Tower at the east end has double metal doors and a single semi-circular metal window. There is one free-standing brick pier with a ball support.
Our Lady of Lourdes. Roman Catholic Church built in 1935 by J. A. Crush. A basilica in red brick.
Ambulance Centre
Arnos Grove Station. Opened 1932 it lies between Southgate and Bounds Green Stations on the Piccadilly Line. It was built for the Piccadilly Line & London Electric Railway. The station was a Charles Holden design and it was his personal favourite among all the stations he worked on. It has a circular brick ticket hall and its 'passimeter' booking office, constructed around a pillar, which supported a concrete roof made of Portland stone aggregate.   There is a round tower with an angular street frontage built from brindled Staffordshire bricks matching the parapets of the bridge. Access to the trains was over a reinforced concrete bridge, with the Station Masters’ office at one end. The platform canopies, designed by Stanley Heaps, were made from steel encased in concrete and partially glazed. There are endless articles and books raving about the station design.
The signal box was located south of the platforms, on the west side of the line and adjoined the sub-station. It was equipped with a Westinghouse frame.

Highview Gardens
The first phase of a twenty- year redevelopment scheme by Southgate Council in 1956, within ten years the Council had been abolished.  Between dense Edwardian terraces and the railway line was built maisonettes, and two thirteen-storey point blocks by David du R. Aberdeen in 1958-60.

Limes Avenue
Our Lady of Lourdes Primary School, built in 1972 on the land owned by the Church

Morton Circus
Formal brick gate piers R. Phillips, Borough Surveyor whose name is on a plaque on the gates

Telford Road
North circular
The Piccadilly line coming from Bounds Green arrives at a section of viaduct. It then crosses the North Circular Road on a bridge made up of three skew spans. Having crossed the road, the viaduct continued northwards, initially over eight arches.

Upper Park Road
Garfield Primary School

Wilmer Way
Broomfield School. Built by Middlesex County Council as a senior elementary school for 800 pupils in 1938 when it was called Arnos School. It has been said it is school board architecture ‘at its most austere’.  It later became a secondary modern school with extensions made to the original site in 1948, 1957, 1964 & 1966. In 1967 it became a comprehensive school. In 1984 it merged with Minchenden School and was renamed Broomfield School.

Sources
London Encyclopedia
Walford. Highgate to the Lea
Field. Place Names of London
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Essex Lopresti. Walking the New River
Nairn. Modern Buildings
Day London Underground
Piccadilly Line. Capital Transport
Southgate Green web site
Londongardensonline web site
British Listed Buildings web site
Bowes Primary School web site
London Railway Record
London Borough of Barnet web site
Our Lady of Lourdes web site
Our Lady of Lourdes School web site
Broomfield School web site

Friday, 30 March 2012

Bounds Green Brook - Bounds Green

Bounds Green Brook
Bounds Green Brook flows north eastwards
TQ 29793 91467

Suburban area crossed which lies south of the North Circular Road and which is crossed north:south by the main line railway from Kings Cross.  It includes a site of Middlesex University and a number of large defunct industrial sites, as well as some open space and the remains of an outdoor baths

Post to the west Colney Hatch
Post to the north Arnos Grove
Post to the south Alexandra Park
Post to the east Bowes Park

Blake Road
Glencairn Bowls Club
St Martin of Porres Roman Catholic School. This is a Primary School with a part-time nursery. The school opened in 1972 and the nursery in 1980. St. Martin was a Peruvian saint. The site was previously tennis courts.

Bounds Green
The name Bounds Green seems to date from the early 17th and Bounds is known to have been a local family name

Bounds Green Road
Middlesex University. The University site in Bounds Green Road home of the Engineering and Information Technology schools was sold in 2003 and is now housing plus a trading estate
Middlesex Polytechnic. This predecessor to the University was established in a concrete warehouse by Rock Townsend 1977-81. This was to give a high-tech factory image by recladding in sheet steel, with much colourful pipework exposed in an open-plan interior.
The Standard Bottle Co. Ltd. Established in 1836 but on this site from 1921. They had three regenerative furnaces here and made all types of bottles and Jars. Closed in 1971.The Polytechnic building was on this site.
Rail sidings and internal narrow-gauge system were on the site now covered by Ringway and a line went to the bottle works. Loco Carbon, built 1930, was working here and disposed of in 1971 – now preserved at Leighton Buzzard.
Bounds Green Industrial Estate – trading estate alongside what was the Polytechnic building. Most of the buildings appear to date from early 1960s.but look older.
Bounds Green Station. Opened between Arnos Grove and Wood Green stations on the Piccadilly Line. It was built for the London Electric Railway, which became the Piccadilly line. The street level building was designed by C.H. James and the main booking hall tower is octagonal. In 1940 the station was bombed and there is a Memorial plaque to those who died in the attack - 19 killed and 52 injured when the station tunnel caved in.  With a vertical rise of 51.88ft, the escalators were the longest on the line. The design of the station is a variant on the type used elsewhere in the line. With an original bronze uplighter in the centre of the ticket hall.
Passmore Edwards House, sheltered housing, on the site of the Passmore Edwards Cottage Hospital. This was here between 1895 and 1983. In land was bought from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners and the foundation stone was laid by John Passmore Edwards. The hospital was opened in 1895 and built with funding from the Passmore Edwards Foundation. It had 8 beds and was supported by local doctors. The hospital was extended on several occasions. In 1933 it was renamed as Wood Green and Southgate Hospital and In 1948 joined the NHS, The Hospital was modernised in 1973 and closed in 1983.
Springfield Park Tavern, including a Theatre Club. Irish pub.
The Ranelagh. Mitchell and Butlers Pub

Cline Road
The road is named after surgeon Henry Cline who lived in Bounds Green House in 1808
Bounds Green Farm stood on the east side of the current road on the corner of Bounds Green Road
Engineering works
Tealdown Works. Used as a down quilt factory who in 1947 were manufacturers of down quilts, bedspreads, cushions, embroideries, and curtains. The building appears to date from pre-1950s. Assume it is the current Textile House now used as a clothing factory since the 1970s.
Denver House. Currently in use by Ming al (London) Institut – a British Chinese Food Culture Project

Durnsford Road
Cottage style houses built for Wood Green UDC in 1921 by T. H. Mawson and R. Dam; simple, with rendered walls.
Wood Green Lido. Opened in 1934, with a double shallow end and Designed by E.P. Mawson. It was filled by road tanker from an artesian well in Broomfield Road after the Metropolitan Water Board refused to provide the water. It closed after 1988 season. Most of the original buildings remain as the Sunshine Garden Centre

Gordon Road
5 Saam Theatre. Anglo Iranian theatre company. Now performing elsewhere.

Maidstone Road
The tube line from Bounds Green enters a cutting and passes beneath a footway

North Circular Road
Bounds Green Brook flows under it in a culvert until the junction with Bounds Green Road

Park Road
Springfield Community Park - set up as a community trust

Railway
Original Great Northern Railway tunnel, 704 yards

Ring Way
The road round the trading estate appears to follow the line of the light mineral railway.

Scout Park
Brick works site. Opened 1928 when ‘Clay pits with tile kilns and potteries were established by 1862 by Charles Paul Millard, 'brick and tile maker'. By 1903 the Bounds Green Pottery was owned by Charles Pickering and specialised in glazed bricks and tiles. The site was sold in 1926.. Some of the original buildings remain and the levels of the workings can still be seen.
Scouts - The brick works site was sold to the Wood Green District Scouts and in 1928 renamed Scout Park, which it remains today.  The park is now a centre for scouting and other youth activities.

Station Road
New Southgate Gas Works. In 1858 the Southgate and Colney Hatch Gas Light and Coke Company was set up with a gas works beside the railway immediately to the south of New Southgate Station.  In 1866 it was re-incorporated as the Colney Hatch Gas Company, and in 1904 became the Southgate and District Gas Company. It was taken over in 1938 by the Tottenham and District Gas Company and nationalised in 1948.The works closed in 1972 with holders remaining on site. In particular one holder remained, built in 1912 and decommissioned in 2001.

Tewkesbury Terrace
The tube line leaves Bounds Green and, after an initial short fall, the line rises until it reaches the tunnel beneath Tewkesbury Terrace. Here it is 48ft higher than when it started at Finsbury Park. When the line was built rings were installed at the outer-end on the southbound tunnel to reduce the air pressure as trains entered at speed.

Sources
Field London Place Names
Pevsner and Cherry London North
Middlesex Churches
Day. London Underground
Pinching and Dell. Haringey’s Hidden Streams Revealed.
Martin of Porres School web site
Middlesex University web site
Glassmaking in London web site
Lost Hospitals of London web site
Lidos in London web site
Saam Theatre web site
Scout Park web site
LMA web site

Thursday, 29 March 2012

Bounds Green Brook - Colney Hatch

Bounds Green Brook
Bounds Green Brook flows eastwards. The stream had begun as Strawberry Vale Brook. It is met by Pages Lane Brook from the south, and by another stream flowing north from the golf course
TQ 28074 91264

Suburban area adjacent to the North Circular Road with the old mental hospital converted to housing

Post to the west Coppetts Wood
Post to the south Muswell Hill
Post to the east Bounds Green

Bobby Moore Way
Powerleague Barnet – basically football

Cromwell Road
Alexandra Arms. Closed and now flats.
Pillar box by A. Handyside & Co. Ltd. Derby & London.  At Britannia Foundry Later E VII R cypher made 1901 – 1904. Now gone.
Friern Barnet Sewage Works. Closed in 1963

Friern Bridge Retail Park
Warehouse retail units and Tesco

Princess Park Manor
The Asylum was on the area of Hollick Wood. 
Friern Hospital – this square covers only the southern half.
Friern Hospital This mental hospital operated between 1851 and 1993 and was built to ease pressure on the first Middlesex County Asylum at Hanwell. It was intended that theMiddlesex County Pauper Lunatic Asylum - Colney Hatch Asylum would have a catchment from east London.  The foundation stone was laid by the Prince Consort in 1849 and at £240 per bed it was the most expensive asylum ever built.  S W Daukes won the competition with a design in the style of an Italian monastery.  and George Myers won the contract to build it. The estate had its own water supply and its own farm of 75 acres, on patients which were employed.  It also had its own cemetery, chapel and railway sidings. In 1899 control of the Asylum passed from the Middlesex Justices of the Peace to the London County Council and Lowen's Farm and Hollick Wood had been added to the site. In 1903 a temporary wooden block built in 1896 burned down.  Fifty one people died in what would be called the worst disaster in English asylum history. By 1929 the grounds had been extended to 165 acres, when 7 acres of land were cut off by the new North Circular Road and assigned to the LCC as a playground. In 1930 the Asylum was renamed the Colney Hatch Mental Hospital, when the Mental Health Act of that year expunged the term 'asylum' from official use. In it was renamed Friern Mental Hospital, to remove old associations.   During the Second Wrold War twelve wards were given up to the Emergency Medical Service for civilian war casualties.  In 1941 five villas were destroyed by bombs. In 1948 the Hospital became part of the NHS. In 1989 it was decided that the Hospital should close as part of the 'Care in the Community' policy instigated by the government. Despite great public protest in 1993 the building and the land surrounding it was sold to a property developer and The Hospital has become 'Princess Park Manor' - a luxury gated community
Friern Village – built on the hospital farmland and is now, a private housing development of over 730 dwellings.
Hospital gas works, next to the railway with its own siding from the line.

George Crescent
Estate built by Friern Barnet UDC in 1952.  Low terraces spaciously laid out – including portholes as a fashionable motif. Plenty of trees and open grass areas.

Muswell Hill Golf Course
Brook runs northwards across the course and once formed the boundary of the sewage works which lay in the northern section.
The course covers all that remains of the fields Tottenham   Wood   Farm., Thomas Rhodes was the last occupant. Opened in 1894 it claims to have been the first club in north London.

Pinkham Way
Length of the North Circular called after Sir Charles Pinkham of Middlesex County Council, builder and developer.
Friern Bridge carries a service road to the Friern Retail Park
Roundabout on the junction with Colney Hatch Lane replaced by a flyover in 1972
Bounds Green Brook runs in a culvert alongside the road, but has been landscaped in the area of the Friern Retail Park.   Before the North Circular was built here in the 1930s the brook was south west of the current road line and was the boundary of both the parish and Bounds Green Farm. It then went under the railway line in a tunnel but the North Circular has been upgraded again since and the brook runs in a culvert under it.
The railway line runs over it and the road built through the railway embankment. Undertaken by Macalpines in 1930.

Sydney Road
Bus Garage.  Opened in 1925. Had an access ramp from Hampden Road.
Hollickwood Primary School

Sources

GLIAS Newsletter
Power League Barnet web site
Friern Bridge Retail Park web site
London Borough of Barnet web site
Lost Hospital of London web site
History of Middlesex web site
London Encyclopaedia
Stevenson, Middlex
Walford Village London
Pevsner and Cherry London North
London Railway Record
Glazier London Transport Garages
Hollickwood School web site
Muswell Hill Golf Club web site

Wednesday, 28 March 2012

Pages Hill Brook - Muswell Hill

Pages Hill Brook
Pages Hill Brook rises in this area and flows north towards Bounds Green Brook
Muswell Stream rises in this area from a number of sources and flows north eastwards

Post to the west Coldfall Woods
Post to the north Colney Hatch Asylum
Post to the east Alexandra Park
Post to the south Muswell Hill

Albion Avenue
The road falls steeply downhill westwards to the valley of the Pages Hill Brook
St.Peter le Poer.  This was founded in 1866 as a mission and in 1884 a temporary church was built until a permanent structure was built in 1909 by Caroe & Passmore, funded by money from the sale of the redundant church of St. Peter-le-Poer, Old Broad Street, in the City of London.  It is a red brick building “with a bushy eyebrow effect” Inside are furnishings from the old City church including an ample alabaster font c. 1873, and a curved pulpit with carving and twisted balusters, probably dating from the rebuilding of the City church in 1788-92.  Stations of the Cross engraved and coloured wood, by Wilfred Lawson as well as stained glass of Christ in Glory..
Flats on the site of a prefabricated church hall, built in 1964 to replace the temporary church of 1904.
The vicarage and garden adjoin the church to the north. There is a war memorial in the garden to the dead of two world wars. It was rededicated in 2010 following destruction in a storm four years earlier
Halliwick Recreation Ground. Pages Hill Brook went down the east side of this field. The field was purchased by the local authority in 1927.

Alexandra Park Road
Flats 1985 block. From 1904 to 1984 this site was occupied by a Wesleyan Methodist Church, designed by Gunton, and adjacent hall. 1899. The church was in red brick and had a corner turret with an octagonal lantern. In the early 1980s structural defects led to its demolition and replacement elsewhere.
St. Andrew.  Built 1903 by J.S. Alder, but bombed gutted in the Second World War II. The old walls were incorporated in the church rebuilt by R. S. Morris in 1957. It is in red brick

Cecil Road
Muswell Stream - one of the head streams flows into the road where a dip can be seen.
Colney Hatch Lane
Tudor route to the North. The name "Muswell" was established by the end of the 15th and means "mossy spring". The spring was on an area made up of  64 acres of land east of Colney Hatch Lane which had been held in the 12th by the Bishop of London as Lord of the Manor.
Our Lady of Muswell, The Roman Catholic Parish of Muswell Hill was founded in 1917. The church was built in 1938 to designs by T.H.B.Scott and is in brown brick with capitals at the entrance. Named after the medieval well shrine here,
3 19th detached house with mature trees
5-7 19th detached houses with decorative woodwork at the front.
40 built by a Dr.Webster who put a spider's web device under the eaves as a pun on his name - but it is no longer there.
156 The Minstrel Boy. Pub.
Flats – post war by Friern Borough Council designed by J. Marshall Engineer and Surveyor, 1946-51
Pillar Box. By T Allen & Co.  Ltd- 1884 .1901 with a vending machine on top. Now gone
Garden walls containing brick maker’s wasters.
South Friern Library. The library dated from 1963 built by Friern Borough Council. It has since been rebuilt.
Muswell Hill Farm lay on the east side of the road south of the junction with Pembroke Road. It was in existence by the mid 18th and continued until 1902

Coniston Road
Muswell Stream - one of the head streams crosses the road

Coppetts Road
3-11 Corner with Pages Lane called Tatterdown Place. 19th cottages
Pillar Box G.R. cypher, type 'D'. Oval 1932
Coppetts Wood Primary School
Coppetts Farm. Old farm site to the east of the lane.  By the early 20th it was a dairy farm. The farm house survived after the demolition of other buildings, and was in use as a shop
Wilton Community Church. Evangelical church which began with Christian Brethren, who began an Assembly at Wilton Chapel.

Creighton Avenue
Fortismere School – north wing only

Curzon Road
Muswell Stream - one of the head streams crosses this road
Halliwick Road
Pillar Box G.R. cypher, type 'D'. Oval 1932. No longer in place

Muswell Avenue
Muswell Stream - one of the head streams rises in this area
House on the corner dated 1891
Norfolk ’Preparatory’ School. The school has been on this site since 1897 and originally prepared boys for the navy.

Muswell Road
The Muswell Stream ran between this roasd and Cranbourne Road.
40 Plaque on the house. site of holy well and one source of Muswell Stream. The spring was on the area of a farm given by the Bishop of London as Lord of the Manor of Hornsey to the nuns of the Priory of St. Mary in Clerkenwell for use as a farm. It was the shrine of Our Lady of Muswell which included a chapel and pilgrims visited it  Said to be holy and supposed to cure scrofula. King  Malcolm of Scotland visited it and was allegedly cured and there was a resulting Papal edict.   After the dissolution the land passed into private ownership.   In 1865 the well was described as being brick lined to a depth of about 5 feet below which was water. It was obliterated when the houses were built at the end of the 19th century
47 Boundary marker on the boundary of Hornsey & Wood Green
64 Boundary marker on the boundary of Hornsey & Wood Green

Newton Road
Robert Paul’s film studios 1897 - 1910. Paul built the first British movie camera, called the Paul-Acres camera, and opened one of the first film studios. The 'Animatograph Works' included a studio, which built up imaginary spaces and places.  Paul’s studio produced fantasies like The Magic Sword in 1902.  In 1900 he moved his instrument workshop here from Hatton Garden and in 1903 produced a galvanometer and a prototype of the pulsator, forerunner of the iron lung. From 1912, the firm made measuring instruments, notably thermometers. In 1920 the firm amalgamated with the Cambridge Scientific Instrument Co. The premises were extended in 1937-9,1959-61, and from 1963, but in 1975 production in Sydney Road was transferred to St. Neot's as part of the Swiss firm of Brown Boveri.

Pages Hill
Pages Hill Brook follows down the west side of the road

Pages Lane
The palings and trees of the estate which line Pages Lane are typical of Muswell Hill's appearance before Edwardian development.
North Bank Estate.  This was an estate of eleven acres given to the Methodist church in 1947 by. H. Guy Chester. It is called ‘North Bank’ after one of the houses on it,
North Bank House.  This is a 19th house with large grounds, stables and other outbuildings used by the Methodist Church. L-shaped stable group.  It is used for The Methodist Division of Education and Youth.  Methodist Home for the Aged, sheltered housing, and Chester House hostel and offices of the Christian Education Movement plus Muswell Hill Methodist Church. The grounds are used for social evenings.
Muswell Hill Methodist Church.  Part of the North Bank Estate, complex. The church was built in 1984, by Peter Knollt and Chris Leiliot of Daniel & Leiliot, and is next to the house. It includes stained glass from the old Methodist church in Colney Hatch Lane.
Chester House, Methodist Youth Headquarters, and Youth Hostel, by Charles Pike, 1959-60, in pale brick. It commemorates Harold Chester, the stockbroker who financed the site and whose portrait and a plaque are in the entrance hall.
Hazlehyrst. This was Chester's own house and is used as staff flats at his request.
Tennis courts.  These were provided by Chester for the Muswell Hill Methodist Tennis Club, and were opened in April 1925 by Miss Dorothy Round and other Wimbledon celebrities.
Whitehall Lodge.  Modern movement flats built in 1938 on the site of almshouses.
Our Lady of Muswell RC Primary School opened in 1959 in old buildings of St.Martin's convent
St.Martins Convent School opened in 1904 by the Sisters of St.Martin of Tours. Closed in the late 1950s.
1-11 row of 19th century cottages with a further terrace known as Victoria
Post box on the north side has a VR cypher.

St.Regis Close
5 Artists garden which includes a Baroque temple, pagodas overlooking ponds, raku-tiled mirrored wall, around the compost heap is a wall with a stained glass window salvaged from the porch of the local Methodist Church demolished in the 1980- and an American Gothic Bates Motel shed.

Sources

Cherry and Pevsner London North
Middlesex Churches
A walk round Muswell Hill
Pinching and Dell. Haringey’s Hidden Streams Revealed
History of the County of Middlesex web site
St.Peter le Poer web site
National Gardens Scheme web site
LMA web site
Muswell Hill Methodist church web site
Coppetts Wood Primary School web site
Wilton Community Church web site
Fortismere School website
GLIAS Newsletter
Our Lady of Muswell web site
Locallocalhistory web site

Tuesday, 27 March 2012

Strawberry Vale Brook - Coppetts Wood

Strawberry Vale Brook/Bounds Green Brook
The Brook flows north and east and it is met by the Coppetts Brook from the south.
TQ 26650 91458

Suburban area with some woodland and defence structures

Post to the south Coldfall Woods
Post to the east Colney Hatch Asylum

Colney Hatch
Tudor route to the North. This was a hamlet in 1409 and the hatch referred to may have been a gate into Hollick Wood or to a sluice on the brook

Coppetts Lane
British Road Services depot site. This was a parcels depot and opened in 1976 and then sold off by Thatcher. Formerly a depot for Manchester based hauliers, Fisher Renwick.
Cemetery Gates – modern, low brick entrance area
Strawberry Vale Brook enters a culvert near the cemetery gates and heads under the North Circular Road.

Coppett's Wood,
Remnant of Finchley Common on a hilltop - and rumoured to be a pagan site.  Ancient Woodland with coppiced Oak, hazel, hornbeam and sweet chestnut.  This area was once wood pasture, a way of tree management on common land.  In 1885 this area was purchased the Finchley local authority in order to build during the Second World War.
Tank traps – this is in the South part of the wood and date from the Second World War. They were to have been put across Colney Hatch Lane and Finchley High road and filled with rubble
Finchley Urban District council sewage works. Built in 1885 and Closed in 1963 and part of the woodland. Gasometer is marked on the map. This is the area now called “scrublands”. During the mid 1960s it was used as an waste infill site resulting in a mound which reached 25 feet

Ingleway
Woodhouse Open Space. Green

North Circular Road
Part of this stretch is Pinkham Way and Bobby Moore Way

Porters Way
Compton Leisure Centre
Barnet civic amenity site

Summers Lane
The Compton School. This is an ‘academy’ on the site of Finchley Manorhill School, which was rebranded as Compton School in 1992. Finchley Manorhill was itself an amalgamation of three existing secondary schools in 1971
The Triumph. Pub. This was probably owned by the Flower Pot Brewery. The pub is said to have been named for a Triumphal arch of flowers built for Prince Albert to pass through in his carriage on his way to open the Colney Hatch Asylum in 1851. The pub sign said ‘Our hearts thy throne’. Closed.

Summers Place
This used to be called Dunger Place after Henry Dunger, who owned the “Flower Pot brewery” which was in operation between 1830s and 1870 and was very small.

St.Pancras and Islington Cemetery
Coppetts Brook and Strawberry Vale Brook meet in the cemetery near the corner of High View Road.


Sources
Coppetts Wood web site
BRS man web site
Smyth City Wildspace
London Encyclopedia
Walford Village London
Pinching and Bell Haringey’s Hidden Streams
Compton School Wikipedia web site
London Borough of Barnet web site

Monday, 26 March 2012

Strawberry Vale Brook Coldfall Woods

Bounds Green Brook/Strawberry Vale Brook
The brook rises in this area and flows eastwards
Coppets Brook flows northwards
TQ 28026 90311

Post to the north Coppetts Wood
Post to the east Muswell Hill


Suburban area with open space, including cemetaries and woodland

Coldfall Avenue
Coldfall Primary School. Local authority school opened in 1928. The two-storey building, originally took all ages but by the 1950s it was for primary and infant children only

Coldfall Wood,
Coldfall probably means ‘clearing in which charcoal was burned'.
Until the 20th the woodland covered a much wider area but the southern section was felled and excavated for gravel followed by housing. The remainder of the wood was bought in 1930 by Hornsey Council. The area is marked by an ancient wood bank on the western side. The wood is dominated by oak but there is also coppiced Hornbeam and other trees including wild service.
Coppets or Coldfall Wood Brook flows northwards through the wood. A culverted stream emerges from a pipe opposite Ringwood Avenue and another from a culvert opposite Beech Drive. They merge and run in a natural channel and enter a culvert near the sports grounds. Another branch of the stream flows from the area of Fortismere School, south of Creighton Avenue, and joins the other at the sports ground boundary.

Coppets Road
Coppets Wood Hospital this was the specialist infectious diseases department of the Royal Free from the 1960s until 2000.  In 1888 the Hornsey Local Board of Health built a hospital for infectious diseases at what was then called Irish Corner. It was then seen as a model institution. During the Second Wrold War was used as temporary accommodation for patients from St Bartholomew's Hospital. In 1948 it joined the NHS and became part of the Northern Group.  By 1954 it had 144 beds. In 1963 it joined the Archway Group and wards were taken over by the Infectious Diseases Department of the Royal Free Hospital.  Most of the Hospital closed in 2000, when services were transferred to the Royal Free Hospital.  All that remained was the 2-bedded High Security Infectious Diseases Unit, which had gained an international reputation in the treatment and care of patients with hazardous infections, such as Lassa fever and rabies.  In 2008 these high security beds also transferred to the Royal Free Hospital in Pond Street and Coppetts Wood Hospital finally closed and is now replaced with housing
Crouch End Vampires Football Club
Hornsey Urban District Sewage Farm Filter Beds
Muswell Hill Sports Ground. This is said to be part of what was Finchley Common and also said to be a reclaimed rubbish tip

Creighton Road
Coppetts Brook rises slightly to the south of the road

St.Pancras and Islington Cemetery.
A vast complex of graves covering 88 acres of Horseshoe Farm acquired by the St Pancras Vestry in 1854; plus 94 of Finchley Common for Islington  in 1877. The boundary fence between the two has been removed but the line can be traced. It was the first municipal cemetery in London and the biggest. It had many 18th re-burials from Islington and from the building of Euston Station.  .  
Crematorium built by Albert Freeman in 1937 with Art Deco styling It replaces a demolished lodge
St Pancras Roman Catholic chapel built by Barnet and Birch in 1896 on the north side of Roman Road. Includes the Melesi Mausoleum of 1914, for an early victim of a car accident
War graves there are over 100 graves from both world wars plus a memorial with the names of others.
Monuments - the Mond Mausoleum by Thomas Arthur Darcy Braddell built in the Grecian style for Ludwig Mond and vast numbers more.

Sources
Coldfall School website
Clunn Face of London
London Encyclopedia
Field Place Names of London
Pevsner and Cherry London North
Coldfall Wood and Muswell Hill Playing Fields website
Wikipedia Coldfall Woods website
Royal Free Hospital web site
Lost Hospitals of London web site
London Borough of Islington Crematorium web site.
Pinching & Dell, Haringey's Hidden Streams

Saturday, 24 March 2012

Pymmes Brook - Old Southgate

Pymmes Brook
Pymmes Brook continues to flow south east

Post to the west Brunswick Park
Post to the south Arnos Grove

Arnos Grove
Centre road of upmarket Minchenden Estate developed in 1939 for Lord Inverforth, to high standards at the insistence of the local authority.
Duchess Pond.  This was drained in 1925 and lay at the top end of Arnos Grove adjacent to The Green

Balaams Lane
Cottages originally built in 1792 and rebuilt in 1911 with modern weatherboarding.
Baird Memorial Homes built in 1894 and, named after the first Vicar Of Christ Church. Plaque on the front. Baird was the Vicar

Blagden’s Lane
Named after Robert Blagden a local land surveyor who had a school in 107 High Street
Minchenden Lodge. This is said to be where Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed when opening Colney Hatch Hospital. It was once owned by the landlord of the Cherry Tree Inn who used material salvaged from the demolition of Minchenden House in its construction. It later became a hotel and in 1973 a Care home
Obelisk in the garden of Minchenden Lodge is said to have once marked the boundary between Middlesex and Hertfordshire.

Bridge Way
Footpath over Pymmes brook

Hampden Way
Bridge carrying the Piccadilly Line,

High Street
108 site of Zion Academy kept by Robert Blagden in the 19th
Eagle Hall. This stood opposite the Woolpack pub and was the birthplace, in 1784, of Leigh Hunt. A blue plaque was on the wall a since demolished United Reform Synagogue.
88 Southgate Masonic Centre. The Centre is said to been Southgate Church House a converted church hall built for Christ Church in the early 1930s. It was opened as a masonic centre in 1968 and is home to 160 Lodges and 5 Chapters.
75 ARAN Construction – with decorative patterns on the south wall. Before the Great War this was a smithy
65 Southgate Auction Rooms. Previously a depot and timber yard
Southgate College in buildings previously used by Minchenden School 1927-1984.  The administration block is Southgate house which is behind a high wall and surrounded by trees. It is a building of yellow brick dating from about 1780. A plaque notes that it was the home of Baron Lawrence from 1861 until his appointment as the first Governor-General of India in 1864.
Meadway junction – little circle of terracotta shops
Ellington Court - designed by Frederick Gibberd in 1936. One of the few examples of Gibberd's early private commissions, completed before he was 30. It reflects his ideas on design and building methods which were later to become standard in post-war large-scale housing schemes. It was built on the site of Victorian house Churchfields.

The Green
Area also known as ‘Old Southgate’ – to distinguish it from New Southgate and give a name to the conservation area. This was the hub of the hamlet of South Street.
Minchenden House. This stood on the south side of the Green and had been built in 1747 by John Nicholl, and later owned by the Duchess of Chandos It was at one time the home of Sir John Lawrence, Governor General of India, and also a school. It was bought by Walker Bros, brewers and the owners of Arnos Grove and was demolished in 1853 and the grounds incorporated into their estate.
Stocks – although they are not original but installed during the coronation in 1953 after an earlier set went missing during the Second World War. They are made of oak.
Horse trough erected by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association.
Signpost. This has finger signs and was made at the 'Royal Label Factory, Stratford on Avon'.
2 The Old House. With a Georgian door
4 Arnoside like Essex House. The bell on the roof is a reminder that this was once used as a school along with the Old House and Essex House
5 Essex House.  A pair of 18th houses, with a detached service wing on each side. There are baroque gate piers with urns, and the original iron railings and gates.
17 has a gate which mentions goods and chattels.
23-31 a group of houses built in 1777 for the Valentine Poole Trust on charity land, apparently as almshouses. Designed by south London architect Michael Searles but partly rebuilt in in 1981. The funding comes from a bequest of land in 1624
38-39 Norbury House and Sandford House.  A pair of houses built 1775-6 for Richard Goad, a local landowner.
40 Ash Lodge. A house used as the first office of the Southgate Local Board of Health in 1881. There is a plaque about this on the house.
41 Ingleside 19th
Bank. This replaced a house in which the Reverend Benjamin Waugh, founder of the N.S.P.C.C lived
The Old Cherry Tree Inn.  There was an inn on this site when it was given by Valentine Poole for the benefit of the poor of Barnet in 1624, and there are records of the pub in 1721. It is built in a mixture of brick, timber and stucco with a painted brick extension acting as an assembly room over the coach entrance. There are two recesses with holes in the ceiling of the archway entrance to the inn yard which are said to be for storage of coach poles

Tunnel
The tube tunnel runs under the sports grounds of Ashmole School to the north.  Having gone across the viaduct over Waterfall road and Hampden Way the Piccadilly Line goes back into a tunnel as the ground rises. These running tunnels were built through clay and were of the standard tube type. The northbound tunnel is 930 yards, whilst the southbound is 2 yards shorter

Waterfall Close
Whitehouse farm cottages

Waterfall Road
Viaduct - this takes the Piccadilly line over the road as it runs between Arnos Grove and Southgate stations. This skew viaduct is 64 yards with seven segmental arches, most with a span of 25ft, but there is one of 20ft and the other 13ft.
Southgate and Edmonton Cemetery. Laid out on a strict grid pattern with no chapel because the parish church is so near. Box like lodge but gothic gate posts and a seat
Walker Primary School. This was opened in 1953 and has been extended since. It is named for the Walker family of Arnos Grove who in time were part of the Taylor Walker brewery. John Walker opened a charity school in 1812 on their estate.
Christ Church. Built 1861-3 by George Gilbert Scott to replace the Weld Chapel.  Much of the funding was provided by the Walker family and the vicar was married to one of them. It is in stone, with a tower and spire. There are windows by Morris & Co., dating from the early days of the firm to the early c20 and with some figures designed by Morris himself, and others by Ford Madox Brown, Rossetti and Burne-Jones,
Site of the Weld chapel.  This was built in 1615 by Sir John Weld, who lived in Arnolds as a chapel of ease to Edmonton.
Churchyard.  This includes headstones from the 17th
Minchenden Oak Gardens. These were created by Southgate Borough Council as a Garden of Remembrance in 1934. The gardens are on the site of the Minchenden Estate. The Minchenden or Chandos Oak is an ancient pollarded oak tree which was said in the 19th to be the largest in England with a girth of over 27 feet and it could be some 800 years old.
Walker Cricket ground. The Walker Ground was once Chapel Fields, bought by Isaac Walker from the third Duke of Chandos in 1853 to enlarge his estate, and his son, John, laid it out for cricket soon afterwards. He was the eldest of seven bachelor brothers several of whom played for England, and in 1858 10,000 people saw the Sixteen of Southgate beat United All England here. John Walker’s bat is preserved in the pavilion

Source material for this section

Graham Dalling - Southgate and Edmonton Past
Pevsner & Cherry - Buildings of England, London North
C.W.Radcliffe -Middlesex
Stevenson - Middlesex
Middlesex Parish Churches (pub. Bishopsgate Inst)
Walford - Village London
Articles in London Railway Record
Greater London Industrial Archaeology Society Newsletter
Southgate Green Association web site

Friday, 23 March 2012

Pymmes Brook - Brunswick Park

Pymmes Brook
Pymmes Brook flows south east
TQ 28134 92850

Land around the Great Northern Cemetery and the Great Northern Railway with its cemetery station.  Standard Telephones and Cables had a big works here

Post to the north Osidge
Post to the east Old Southgate

Brunswick Avenue
This was originally called Black Horse Lane.
2a Trendy House for Trendy Trainers International

Brunswick Crescent
Haynes Crescent built on the site of Brunswick Park Junior Mixed and Infants School

Brunswick Park
The area was developed in late 19th with some speculative housing in the 1930s although some open land remained.

Brunswick Park Gardens
Housing from the 1970s built on some of the cemetery area following clearance,

Brunswick Park Road
This was previously called Barnet Lane.
Brunswick Park Health Centre.  Burnt down in 2010
Brunswick Park Primary School
Waterfall Walk through public open space on the site of the old sewage works with Pymmes Brook running through it.
Sewage Works. The area immediately between Pymmes Brook and the cemetery was the East Barnet Sewage Farm which belonged to the local authority. This included a railway complex. Closed early 1970s.
New Southgate Cemetery – new name for the Great Northern Cemetery
Great Northern Cemetery.  This was established as a hygienic alternative to city churchyards and as a cheaper option to the large private cemeteries. In 1855 the Great Northern London Cemetery Act established this site as a cemetery and allowed areas in it to be leased by Metropolitan parishes and an agreement with the Great Northern Railway for the transport of bodies.   The cemetery was in two parts and the land bought from Mr. Bowles.
Great Northern Cemetery section on the east side of Brunswick Park Road. It was laid out by Alexander Spurr on a concentric plan like a wheel with spoke around the chapel. It was, intended to cover 200 acres with an attractively mature landscape in the southern part. The Chapel was in the centre with a tall spire – the interior was converted to crematorium in the 1950s. An earlier crematorium would have been Britain’s first but it was banned by the Bishop of Rochester. Among the monuments is a tall late 19th obelisk erected by the Society of Friends. In a walled garden a very large marble column to Shogi Effendi, Baha’i leader in 1957.
Cemetery gates with Gothic gate piers
Great Northern Cemetery section on the west side of Brunswick Park Road. It was in this area that the station was sited. This was little used and with the demise of the railway service it was closed and the area leased to a pig farmer. By 1897 the track leading into the cemetery had been removed, although some of the buildings, including the church, remained standing.  Some of the area was used from 1916 by for the use of a J.Tylor & Co, who made lorry engines and then by Western Electric which became Standard Telephones & Cables. Northern Telecom - Nortel - were still manufacturing here in 1989 but the factory closed in 2000. It became North London Business Park Trading Estate. Some of the cemetery area remained to be cleared in 1971
Standard Telephone and Cables.  The site was purchased in 1922 and the factory was opened as International Western Electric which became Standard Telephones Cables moving staff and works from North Woolwich. Before opening, in a hut on the highest spot on the night of 14th/15th January, 1923, engineers and press, listened to a broadcast from New York. A plaque in the Entrance Hall recorded “the first spoken word from the western hemisphere to these islands’. The factory made telephone and related equipment. In 1923 the company secured the contract for transmitters at the Post Office's Rugby station.  In 1931 the company initiated what became known as microwave technology and in 1938 Pulse Code Modulation, 14,000 were employed there but it was a target for bombers in the Second World War. And a V1 fell here in 1944. .  Northern Telecom - Nortel - were still manufacturing here in 1989 but the factory closed in 2000. It became North London Business Park Trading Estate. Some of the cemetery area remained to be cleared in 1971
North London Business Park on the site of the STC works. Consists largely of Barnet Council Offices and educational buildings of Barnet College and Middlesex University
Ceteum Cosmetics Company in factory buildings which began with the North View Photographic and Stereoscopic Works in 1898. It was subsequently a printing works in the 1920s

Oakleigh Road North
Cemetery station. The station buildings were designed by Edmund Alexander Spurr and consisted of neo Gothic chapel, a house occupied by Spurr as Superintendent and station buildings.   The service did not prosper and quickly declined and in 1865 was terminated. The buildings were sold to the railway company who used the area to expand the line. The buildings were used by a local pig breeder and called “The Retreat”. The sidings were rebuilt in 1916 for the use of a J.Tylor & Co, and later by the Telegraph Company

Oakleigh Road South
New Southgate Recreation Ground. Previously Brunswick Park Recreation Ground opened 1892 as the first houses appeared in the area.
Industrial area being developed for housing

Pymmes Green Road
Waterfall Tennis Club

Railway Line
The line to the cemetery station ran parallel to the east of the main line having branched off at what is now New Southgate Station.  There was a run round loop by the station.  
Cemetery Down Signal Box abolished in 1922
Cemetery Up Signal box abolished in 1973 and built on a high brick base. The box was built to control the goods line to New Southgate.

Whitehouse Way
Whitehouse Estate of the British Land Company late 19th housing development which includes some modern movement flat roofed houses

Source material for this section
Pevsner & Cherry Buildings of England London North
Articles in London Railway Record
STC New Southgate history and reminiscence web site
GLIAS Newsletter
Graham Dalling  Southgate and Edmonton Past
London Borough of Barnet Pocket Histories web site
(plus some personal reminiscence material on STC)
Lewis. Industry and Innovation in the Lea Valley