Monday, 3 February 2014

North London Railway - Balls Pond Road

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the  north  west quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The line from Dalston Junction station curves north westwards to meet the line from the east coming from Kingsland station

Pigwell Brook
The Pigwell Brook rises in this area and flows eastwards

An intense and crowded inner city area.  Along with 19th century and other housing are many charitable and other institutions.  There are many small back street industries although often replaced by recent housing.

Post to the east Dalston Junction
Post to the north Mildmay

Ardleigh Road
Originally called Enfield Road North. It is part of the area leased from the de Beauvoir family by Rhodes and subsequently developed in the 1830s. The diagonal direction of the road dates to the first layout of the estate.


Balls Pond Road
The road is said to have been named after a pond owned by a John Ball who in the 17th ran the Salutation or the Boarded House which provided for bull baiting and duck hunting. The pond itself was to the west of this square
9-19 is a mid 20th building with wide glass windows. Formerly occupied by Paul Separates, it is now a branch of Leyland Specialist Decorators Merchants
22-28 Willow Place. Built around 1863
22 Willow Tree pub. Closed in 2007 and now housing
31 has a cast iron lattice front porch screen
Anchor Mews. Buildings in what was the yard of the Anchor pub.
39 The Anchor Pub. Now in housing plus a Polish shop. The name Anchor can just be made out on a gable at the top of the building.
47a Maberley Chapel This was an independent chapel.  Built in the early 1820s it is in brick with a stucco front where there are stone steps, wrought iron railings, and two wooden entrance porches. On the front is written "MABERLY CHAPEL”. Inside there are galleries supported by cast-iron columns. The chapel takes its name from William Maberly, on whose land it was built. It is now an artist’s studio.
School behind the chapel built in 1844 in brick. Above the doorways is written "Boys" and "Girls".
54 The Marquis of Salisbury pub. This was known as The Salisbury in the time before it closed.
72 Fergie’s Pub was one called the Entertainer but was the Greyhound originally. Now closed and converted to flats
81-119 Elizabeth Place built 1826
100-98 Cutlers’ Terrace. This is in the site of Cutlers Company almshouses with an entrance which went through to the almshouses which lay at right angles to the road.  There were twelve houses for twenty-four inmates, under the management of the Court of Assistants of the Cutlers. Disposed of as being uninhabitable 1964.
108-124 Mildmay Place built 1830
100 Asylum of Metropolitan Benefits Estates. Almshouses.  The Metropolitan Benefit Societies Asylum was established in 1829 and supported by voluntary contributions. It was intended to 'afford an asylum for the reception of aged and infirm members of Friendly Societies.' once enough money was raised these almshouses were built. The foundation stone was laid in 1836 by the then Lord Mayor. It lines three sides of a large forecourt in a two-storey stock brick Tudor block by S.H. Ridley. There is a central chapel, now a hall, rebuilt in 1931.  It later expanded with two side wings affording for 64 couples. The MBSA retained voluntary contributions mainly from the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. It later became a Charity and a Housing Association. There is now a new Warden's residence and office, a central community block and 13 two room flats for residents
119 Duke of Wellington pub. 19th pub building.  It claimed to be the first ever pub theatre when it was managed by playwright J.M.Neill in the 1960s.  This was The Sugawn Theatre which got its name from the sugawn chairs imported from Co Clare. The theatre was preceded by The Sugawn Kitchen, noted for live Irish music.  In the 1990s it was a lesbian pub which also sold books. It was refurbished as a gastro pub in 2006
121- 157 Brunswick Place. Terrace built in 1812. With a pair of houses in the centre with a dated pediment. One of these houses was the Berbo Buckle factory.
159 Montgomery House. A four storey warehouse used as a costume studio,
Bookbinders Provident Institution. This is now the site of the catholic church. In 1830 at The Bookbinders' Pension Society was formed and they built The Bookbinders' Provident Asylum, in 1843. Extra wings were built as the charity grew.  Closed 1927. The Bookbinders site became Deffries Furniture Transport later nationalised as British Road Services
Our Lady and St. Joseph.  Designed by W.C. Mangan and built 1962-64 in brick and stone with a central tower.  It is on the site of the Bookbinders Asylum which has later become a British Road Services depot. The mission was founded by Fr William Lockhart of the Order of Charity (Rosminians) in 1855, and a church was built in Tottenham Road. Plans for a new church in 1962 were prepared for a different site in 1962. The doorways have reliefs of Alpha and Omega and the Holy Family possibly by Michael Lindsey Clark. There is also a floor mosaic of the Flight into Egypt and a painting of the Blessed Cyprian Michael Iwene Tansi. There is an unpainted statue of St Patrick and another of St Joseph with a statue by Michael Lindsey Clark. A stone statue of the Virgin Mary on a stone altar with brass tabernacle is also by Clark.
Kerridge Court.  Block of council flats opened in 1950 by Mrs. Kerridge. There is a plaque to Lt. Commander Roy Kerridge who died trying to defuse a parachute mine in 1940 in Wright Road

Bentley Road
Cobbles
Bentley House. Head office and rear part of Leyland Specialist Decorators Merchants

Boleyn Road
41a Aztec Court
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction.

Buckingham Road
Our Lady and St.Joseph’s Roman Catholic Primary School. The school opened in 1855 as Kingsland Roman Catholic School on the ground floor of a church. It was financed by voluntary contributions receiving a parliamentary grant by 1871. It remained an all-age voluntary aided school until older children began to attend Cardinal Pole School in 1959. The Primary school was renamed Our Lady and St. Joseph by 1976. The infants' school is a single-storey brick building of 1971-2.  The junior school and nursery date from 1989, and has a clock turret.  There was a carved crucifixion facing De Beauvoir Road which came from the church which was here. In the grounds is an environmental area with a pond.
Kingsgate Estate. This housing development was built in 1958-61 by Frederick Gibberd and G L Downing, the Hackney Borough Engineer. There are three terraces of maisonettes and block of flats around a central courtyard. Maisonettes are stacked to create the impression of a four-storey building with blue and mustard panels on the fronts. The external staircases are made from intricately cast concrete. There is an eleven-storey tower
Kingsgate Hall. Part of the Kingsgate Estate and currently in use as a playgroup and nursery.

Culford Mews
2 modern live work unit house by Free Form Architects
2a modern house by Free Form Architects built around a tiny courtyard
8a modern houses by Free Form Architects
9-10 J.T. Batchelor, old established leather and hide merchants
7 Wesley King, motor mechanics specializing in Rolls and Bentley
8b Pottery. Kate and Graham Malone had a plot used as a plant hire and window cleaning business at the back in Brunswick Terrace to build a studio and turned it into a potters’ cooperative. Five self-employed potters work here and it has the biggest studio kiln in central London.

Culford Road
157 Sterilised Milk Co. Later became Home Counties Dairies, supplying sterilised milk and then became United Dairies and then Unigate.
178 Sterilised Milk Co. Headquarters. The firm was begun by a Mr Lane around 1900. There was a well on these premises, 450 feet deep, sunk in 1922 and sealed in 1948.

Docwra's Buildings
This is named after Thomas Docwra the building contractors, and, in the 19th, well borers. Warehouse style buildings here were used as their depot dating from the 1840s were demolished in the 1960s. Docwra themselves had left in 1922. The site is now modern housing.

Eagle Mews
Modern housing in closed mews area off the Balls Pond Road

Hawthorn Close
London Borough of Islington flats built 1970

Kingsbury Road
Jewish Cemetery. Formerly known as the West London Reform Jewish Cemetery. It was established in 1843, as the first cemetery of the West London Synagogue been formed in 1840 following a schism with the Bevis Marks Synagogue but also with some Askenazi. It was hit by a landmine in the Second World War and has suffered vandalism. Goldsmid, Monefiore and Mocatta are among the eminent names of families buried here. They include Baronet Henriques, founder of the Daily Telegraph and University College London. Also there is David Mocatta Architect who designed Brighton Railway Station, viaducts and stations on the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway. The cemetery was in use until 1951. West London Synagogue, who owned it tried to sell it for housing which led to is a campaign amongst the Jewish community to stop it.
10 St. Jude and St. Paul Primary School.

Kingsland Green
At Kingsland in the 18th a small green on the west side of Ermine Street but in Islington at the junction of Boleyn Road, going to Newington Green and to Ball's Pond Road to  Islington. The parish boundary was southward through the north door of the leper chapel. On the west side was a farm belonging to Highbury manor, held by a London merchant. The green was cut back on its south side  in 1807 and given an ornamental railing. The Green was built over to local protests in the 1880s.
The Pigwell Brook had its source on Kingsland Green and followed the line of the modern Graham Road
Harrington’s Nursery here in the mid-19th
British Orphan Asylum founded here in 1827, moving to Clapham in 1834
Telephone exchange

Kingsland Passage
Town Guide Cabinet. Described by Patrick Wright. This has now gone. (pity).
Warehouse converted  in 1992 to Levitt Bernstein Ltd architects offices.

King Henry’s Walk
Called this because Mildmay was said to be part of a royal hunting area
King Henry’s Walk Electricity Sub Station
7 The Warehouse, flats in old building
8 Order of the Ursulines of Jesus opened 1970. The Congregation of the Ursulines of Jesus is an international religious order founded in 1802.
9 Chorley Memorial Hall. Built 1937 for the North East Gospel Mission founded by William Chorley. An annex of 1953 was the North East London Gospel Mission.
King Henry’s Walk Garden. The map of 1859 shows open space here and later it seems to have been a timber yard although surrounded with. It is thought that by 1858 the site was occupied by Thomas Docwra & Son. Later it was owned by Islington Council and was laid out as a park but this suffered from vandalism and had to be closed. In 2005 the Friends of King Henry's Walk Garden volunteer group was formed to manage the new garden.
11 William Hands lived here from about 1870 until his death. He and one of his sons operated hot press printers from here. In 1866 it was the home of artist Frederick Slocombe.
28 King Henry’s Walk Care Home
31 home of Charles Slocombe
36 Home of Alfred Socombe
Almshouses of Worshipful Company of Dyers. These were William Lee's and John Peck's almshouses, then in Bethnal Green and belonging to the Dyers' Company. Moved here they were built in 1840-1 north of the Tylers' almshouses. They consisted of a two-storeyed symmetrical block of brick designed by S. S. Teulon in Gothic style as 10 houses and a central hall or chapel. This was his first important commission. In 1850-2 Teulon added another 16 houses to rehouse Tyrwhitt's and West's almshouses. They were demolished 1938 and the almshouses moved to Crawley in Sussex, where they remain.  Tudor court is now on the site
Tylers and Bricklayer’s Almshouses. Rhodes was a past Master of the Company when it was decided to built these almshouses in an area of nursery gardens and brickfields in which he was active in development. Designed by William Grellier in 1836 and added to in 1838. Land in front of the almshouses and fronting on the road was developed to provide an income for the almshouses. Demolished 1937 and the land bought by the Board of Guardians and Trustees for the Relief of the Jewish Poor.
Tudor Court. Built on the land on which the Tylers almshouse had been. Bought by Islington council in 1952 and flats built. .also on the site of the Dyers almshouses
St. Jude’s Schools. Thos was a new school opened in 1855 to replace a school in Mildmay grove. Burnt down in 1925 and rebuilt. Junior Mixed stayed in the school here. The school now has its front onto

Mildmay Grove South
106 The Earl of Radnor was previously known as The Radnor Arms, it has now been converted to flats.

Stamford Road
28 De Beauvoir Arms later became the Trolley Stop. Closed and now flats

Tottenham Road
This was originally Tottenham Grove
Playle House. Job Centre
42-56 Smiths of Clerkenwell. Metal Centre. J. Smith & Sons was established in 1780 at a site in Clerkenwell, London. They were clock makers but demand for the large clocks they specialised in, declined dramatically. However By this time the business had become a major player in the purchasing of raw materials from all over the world. This business expanded rapidly and a network of service centres was opened. In 1968 Delta PLC, acquired Smiths and the name of the business was changed to Smiths Metal Centres Ltd. In 1998, Delta PLC was restructure Smiths was bought by its management team. Today, Smiths is one of the UK's largest stockholders
Our Lady and St.Joseph.  The church was first built here. The mission had been founded by Fr William Lockhart of the Order of Charity (Rosminians) in 1855, and a chapel was opened in Culford Road. In 1856 a warehouse in Tottenham Grove was converted by W. W. Wardell into a church above a school. The building was later remodelled by E. W. Pugin but was demolished in the early 1960s when a new church was built in Balls Pond Road
De Beauvoir Primary School.  This was opened as Tottenham Road Board School in 1874. It Closed after 1938 and was replaced by De Beauvoir School. De Beauvoir was originally for juniors and infants and became a primary school in 1993. Thu us a London School Board building of the type developed from the 1870s, with E. R. Robson's buildings in the tradition of Philip Webb.  It consists of two buildings on a cramped site; the earlier one with three big gables and tall chimneys.

Western Junction Site
There is a subterranean track bed beneath Dalston Lane, Kingsland High Street and Boleyn Road at one time used as car scrap yard. On the west side was separate tunnel constructed for the 1870s widening and a cement plaque displaying the level to which flood water had risen on 7th July 1916.

Sources
Aldous. Village London
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney.
British History On Line Islington and Stoke Newington
Clarke. Hackney, 
Clunn. The Face of London
Field. London Place Names,
Free Form Architects. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
International Jewish Cemetery Project. Web site
J.T.Batchelor. Web site
King Henry’s Garden. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
National Archives. Web site
Our Lady and St. Josephs Church. Web site
Our Lady and St. Josephs School. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway 
Sinclair, Hackney That Rose Red Empire
Sinclair. Lights Out for the Territory.
Smith, Web site
St. Jude and St.Paul's School. Web site
Taking Stock. Web site
Tylers and Bricklayers, Web site
Willatts. Streets of Islington
Wright. A Journey Through Ruins

3 comments:

Stephen said...

Great site. The Kingsland Passage 'Town Guide' display board is in the Hackney Museum. Unfortunately it no longer lights up, as it did when I remember it in the 1950s.

Stephen Barry said...

In Culford Mews in the 1950s there was a stables housing horses used by a milk delivery company. I remember that a blacksmith would often visit to shoe the horses. Also, there was a hay and straw merchants in Tottenham Road (opposite De Beauvoir School.

Veganline.com for vegan shoes said...

7A Culford Mews is The Little Workshop, which has hydraulic leather cutting presses and sewing machines. Some of the people working there have paid to use equipment by the hour, using buckles and materials bought at JT Batchelor a couple of doors down. On a hot day you can see the garage-like front of the room open and a shelf of dozens of satchels made-up along one wall - they may show on Google Street View.