Friday, 31 January 2014

North London Railway Dalston Junction

North London Railway
The line from Broad Street Station – and now from Shoreditch Station – continues north and is met by the line from Stratford from the east and the line to Highbury on the west
TQ 33666 84813

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the  north  east quarter for this square.)

Inner city area - this is what the inner city is actually about - small theatres and arts projects, lots of sites of small but often famous industries, churches - often eccentric, community projects, lively pubs, and so much else. Lots of railway infrastructure here too.

Post to the south Dalston
Post to the west Balls Pond Road


Abbot Street
3 Fitzroy House. Abbot Street Studio is a music, post production and voice over recording studio markets and events held there.

Ashwin Street
This was once known as Beech Street
2 Arcola Theatre Tent
10-16 this studio block fronts on Ashwin Street as a run of former Victorian terraced houses, now joined together. The back of the building was a warehouse/factory and they were joined together the 1960s when it was a community arts centre which closed in the 1980s and the building was squatted
Luxembourg Hall. On the site of the Reeves works, who replaced them here. This was a public hall where dancing classes and amateur dramatics were put on.
18-22 Former premises of Reeves and Son artists' colour manufacturer, here from 1866.  The main part is a late 19th factory, with fourth floor added in 1913. The 'Print House' is an extension of added in 1913 by John Hamilton & Son.  Reeves were suppliers of artists' materials. Manager Henry and Charles Kemp Wild concentrated on cheap paints for schools and beginners and also publishing instruction books. This building is the result of their success. The Education Act of 1870, which created an even greater demand for their products. They continued here until 1948 when they moved to Enfield. The building is decorated with mosaic and mosaic lettering. There is a roof garden where theatrical events take place and the building is home to many small business and artistic enterprises.
Tyer & Co., inventors of the block system of railway signalling had their works b here until the 1960s
24 Arcola Theatre. Founded in 2000 by Mehmet Ergen and Leyla Nazli, Arcola Theatre it is housed in a converted paint factory
Shiloh Pentecostal church.  A former Baptist chapel of 1871 by C. G. Seark & Son, enlarged in 1880.  Front with circular windows, and two porches with large foliage decoration. The Baptists had met in Luxembourg hall until 1868. Shiloh leased it from 1968 and bought it in 1976

Atlas Mews
Granite setts. This was the site and the buildings of a mineral water works in the 19th known as the Atlas Works. The Atlas Glass bottle works was to the west in what was Bath Row in the 19th.  They made black glass bottles. In the 1960s it was a works for Wittamore, glass merchant, beveller and silverer. 

Beechwood Road
This was previously Mayfield Road and also Woodland Road and was built up post Second World War as the Rhodes Estate
Trinity Centre. This was established in Trinity Church Hall as a charity in 1996 providing family development and child care services. It was opened to the public in 1997 after a fundraising campaign.
Holy Trinity Church of England Primary School. The school originally opened before 1842 as St. Philip's National School in Woodland Street leased for 99 years by members of the Rhodes family. In 1880 management was transferred to Holy Trinity and a Site for new school was leased in what was then Mayfield Road. It was reorganised in the 1920s for girls and infants and in 1951 became a voluntary aided junior and infants school
62 Hackney Co-operative Developments is a local community economic development organisation established in 1982 as a not-for-profit, community benefit company

Cumberland Close
Holy Trinity Church. Built in 1878-9 by Ewan Christian. It is a tall, urban church in brick with a central tower and circular turret. It contains some fixtures from demolished St Philip Dalston

Dalston Lane
Much of the eastern end is currently being demolished.
Dalston Junction Station. The station was first opened in 1865 by the North London Railway on its City Extension from Broad Street. It had three island platforms with four through lines going to Camden Town to the west and two joining from Poplar to the east. The entrance was on the south side of Dalston Lane and the station was designed by E.H.Horne. It was a single storey structure built of yellow bricks in a style recognisable as 'NLR'. Track level buildings were constructed of wood and included a refreshment room. The service from Poplar ended in 1944 and the tracks were lifted in 1966 and in 1967, the platform buildings were replaced by small shelters and in 1970 most of the buildings were pulled down leaving   fragments of wall in Amhurst Road. A booking office remained at ground level with arched doorways beneath which were parts of stairways, offices and the old ladies waiting room. These all had their original vertical wooden panelling. A large British Railways maroon name board, remained on the wall at the end of platform 6. The line to Broad Street and the station closed in 1986 by which time only two tracks remained, overgrown and derelict and a scrap yard was sited on the unused platforms. The station was rebuilt for the London Overground in 2005 and it was opened by the Mayor of London in 2010. This became a service to West Croydon, as well as New Cross, and also Crystal Palace.
Signal box.  A wooden box survived until 1985 at the southern end of the platforms.  This was Dalston Junction No.2, erected in 1872 when the fourth line was from Broad Street. The box had a thirty-five lever frame but when No.1 box closed in the 1900s sixty levers were installed which had been built at North London's Bow works. It went out of use in 1979. It is said that a natural spring here encouraged one of the signalmen to cultivate watercress beside the line.
Signal posts which had been specially constructed in 1886 to be visible above the Forest Road bridge were removed in 1956.  These were believed to be the tallest signal posts in the country, and were 60 feet high. These were replaced by colour light signals
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction.
Dalston Square. Dalston C.L.R. James Library & Archives. New library and archive opened in 2012 and named after Trinidadian author C.L.R.James, the name transferred from another, closed, library.
11 William Hill bookmakers. This was the Railway Tavern which can be seen on a curved panel at the top corner of the building. The publican of 1899-1939 Henry Aris has his name H. J. ARIS on a curved frieze above the corner entrance
12 Gaumont Cinema. This opened as Dalston Circus in 1886 but was not successful and became a variety theatre called variously North London Coliseum Theatre, North London Coliseum and Amphitheatre, North London Coliseum and National Hippodrome and London Coliseum and National Amphitheatre. In 1898 it was re-built by Wylson & Long and re-opened as the Dalston Theatre of Varieties. In 1920 Biocolor Picture Theatres bought it and it was redesigned as a cinema by F. Edward Jones, assisted by Robert Cromie. The main entrance remained part of the original Dalston Circus building.  In 1927 it was over by Gaumont British Theatres and in 1951 re-named Gaumont Theatre.  It closed in 1960. It became a warehouse for Tesco, then a car auction sales room. The front foyer operated as the ‘Four Aces Night Club’ and despite dereliction a nightclub called Roseberry’s 1994 until 1998. It was demolished in 2007 and there is housing on the site
13 Dalston Eastern Curve Garden, completed in 2010, was planted in an area of Hackney that lacked public green space. Just off the busy Dalston Lane, this secret garden is hidden behind hoarding next to the Hackney Peace Carnival mural. Visitors enter through a wooden doorway into a peaceful haven. The garden, built on a disused railway line derelict for over 30 years
Peace Mural. This was painted in 1985, and created by Ray Walker.  It is based on the 1983 Hackney Peace Carnival. The procession has just gone past Navario Mansions. The London Muralists for Peace was commissioned to create murals with the theme ‘Peace through Nuclear Disarmament’. Ray Walker died before it could e started and Mike Jones and Ann Walker completes it. The mural was opened in 1985 by Tony Banks, then chair of the GLC
16-22. two pairs of three-storey houses with shops over their front gardens.
17-19 Hackney Asian Association’s premises are now owned by Hackney Council for Voluntary Services.
19a The Dalston Picture Theatre opened in 1910 and closed in 1914. It was operated by Louis Silverman and was possibly a shop conversion
20 is the world's first urban farming hub - a workspace, cafe.  It has aquaponic micro fish farming, an Indoor allotment, a rooftop chicken coop and a polytunnel
24-30 Elise Centre. East London Innovation and Social Enterprise Centre. This is the old CLR James Library, now replaced. It was built in 1957-9 by Burley & Moore. The original library was designed by Edwin Cooper in 1913 but was bombed in 1945
27 Tyssen Arms pub. Long gone.
27d Mission of Faith Gospel Ministries granite kerbstones around the property and a cast-iron manhole cover, set in a York-stone surround
38 Free Form Arts Trust
were originally in this property until 1997
39-41 Cape House Hostel. This is the old police station with a section house behind built it 1913.  The Kingsland Police Station was moved here in 1872 and the red brick building on site built in 1914 by J.D.Butler. This closed in the 1990s
Dalston Lane ‘Slips’, mature trees in a roadside verge
46-52 terrace of three-storey, 19th houses which now have projecting single storey shops
55 the property is a good inter war commercial building. Granite setts to the cross-overs n to the front of the property
57 house from 1800. It is three storeys in brick. This was the home of the Free Form Arts Trust founded by Martin Goodrich. They are now based in Richmond Road.
Saint Saviours, an iron church, was constructed in 1874 on the site which was later occupied by Saint Bartholomew’s Church and Vicarage
Saint Bartholomew. The church originated in an iron church and from 1882 was a chapel of ease for Saint Mark's, Shoreditch. The congregation paid for a permanent building by John Johnson.   It was however closed during the Second World War and it was later used as a storehouse for church fittings. It was demolished by 1980 being exempt from regulation because the church commissioners used ecclesiastical exemption to remove the building from protection. The vicarage which was attached to it could not be demolished and remained.
61b Saint Bartholomew’s Vicarage. This was originally attached to the church which had been demolished and was built to the designs of J Johnson, in 1884-85.This was a ruin for many years but was restored as housing in the 1990s.
65 Hackney Connextions. Youth careers and information run by the local authority. It includes Prospects which dates from 1995 and privatisation of the youth careers service and now runs local authority and other services throughout the UK and beyond.
90 Donaldsons. With sign and clock below the gables.
92  This is owned by the Red Cross and a large Red Cross is painted on the side to Graham Road as well as red cross motif stained glass to the porch. It was Hackney and Stoke Newington Orthopaedic and Tropical Clinic which opened in 1919. In 1921 a Tropical Diseases branch opened at the request of the Ministry of Pensions and closed in 1923. The Orthopaedic Clinic closed in 1924, no longer required by the Ministry of Pensions.  It continued to be used by the Red Cross and also until 2012 by Rhythms of Life International a charity for homeless people. It is now used by the British Red Cross as the Hackney Destitution Resource Centre to provide services for asylum seekers and refugees and Hackney Volunteer Centre.
94 a four- five-storey house built of brick it has a prominent chimney stack and a five-storey tower
96 The Unity Club. Hackney Trades Council and Labour Party. Now in other use
Lebon Corner. Allegedly the name of the junction with Queensbridge Road

Eastern Junction
This was the side of Dalston Station that was closed in 1944 and was the site of platforms 5 and 6. These were fenced off and leased to a car breaking. The line branched off under Graham Road to meet the line to Stratford and access the goods yard at that junction. It remained in use to goods traffic until 1965.
Kingsland Depot. Opened by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway in 1851 for the coal trade being brought from the docks. They handled general goods from 1870. Closed in 1972.
Signal box.

Forest Road
Rail Bridge
1a William Gee Warehouse and factory for the shop fronting on Kingsland Road
 

Kingsland
Kingsland was the name of this area and there have been claims that it was ‘the king’s land’ and that there was a hunting lodge somewhere. This part of Hackney belonging to the Crown when the manor was held by the Bishop of London. In the 18th Kingsland was bigger than Dalston. 

Kingsland High Street
Route of Roman Ermine Street. 
18 Kings Arms. A pub was here in 1636 and may have been called the Prince’s Arms.  It was then a building which fronted on to Kingsland Green.  It became a Charrington’s house but in 1993 was sold to Charles Wells Brewer. It closed in 2008 having been compulsorily purchased for the Overground Railway extension and was demolished in 2009
57 Kingsland Station. A station was first opened here in 1850 by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway. North London Railway. It was a very plain two storey building with steps down to the platforms. It closed in 1865 when the Broad Street extension was built and instead a triangular junction joined the lines from the east and west and Dalston Junction station opened on the southern tip replacing Kingsland. Kingsland station was then in use as shops and survived until it was demolished and a new station built in the early 1980s.  It reopened in 1983, opened by GLV Transport Committee chair, Dave Wetzel. It replaced Dalston Junction in 1986 when the line from Broad Street closed. It now stands between Hackney and Canonbury on the North London Line
Dalston East Junction signal box. This stood Between the converging lines from Broad Street and Kingsland but has now vanished without trace.
Kingsland Shopping Centre. This was opened as Dalston Cross Shopping Mall in 1989 on the site railway goods yards off the Eastern Curve railway line.
37 The Kingsland, Irish pub 
41 Frederick Cooke jellied-eel shop. Closed in 1997. Used to have live eels in a tray next to the street which came from Ely. Became the Shanghai Chinese Restaurant but keeps its traditional frontage.  It was clearly once part of a much grander store along with 43, used as a furniture shop in the 1920s.
42 Amherst Hall was on the east side north corner of Abbot Street with its entrance in Stanborough Passage. It was designed by Frank Matcham for F. W, Purcell who built and operated it from 1908 until at least 1915. It was equipped with a Western Electric (WE) sound system in 1930, and by 1934 it was operated by Amhurst Pictures Ltd and by 1937 by Watford Amusements.  It closed in 1940 having been bombed. It never re-opened and was used for a while to store furniture from bombed out homes. By 1951 it was a theatrical store and it was demolished in the late-1960’s to build a new Woolworth’s, later a burger bar and electrical stores are on the site.
44 Fairyland was a small early cinema, most likely a shop conversion, which was located next to the much larger Amhurst Hall. It was operated prior to the Cinematograph Act, which when that was introduced in 1910, the conditions closed it down. Demolished possibly in the late-1960’s, in 2009 a Curry’s electrical shop operates from the site.
59 Railway Tavern
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction. Used as a car scrap yard in the 1980s


Kingsland road
Kingsland Leper Hospital was founded about 1280 to the south and west of the junction of Kingsland Road and Dalston Lane. From 1549, it was run as an outhouse of St Bartholomew’s Hospital. Patients were sent to Kingsland with a variety of diseases. The hospital fronted on Kingsland Road with a barn behind. By the 18th it was for women only. The hospital was rebuilt in the 1720s. Rising costs forced it to close in 1760.
The hospital Chapel lay to the north of the hospital and probably dated from its foundation, and it became known as St Bartholomew’s. After the hospital closed, local people petitioned to keep the chapel. It lasted until 1846. The Star and Garter pub is supposed to have its north door in the same position as the north door of the chapel
520-522 in 1906, William Goldstein- an East European immigrant- changed his name to William Gee and opened a trimming shop with £2 worth of stock. His business expanded and he moved to 520 Kingsland Road. Although the company is predominantly wholesale supplying manufacturers and hospitals, bridal wear and corporate wear suppliers, the shop has always served the local trade. The factory and warehouse are behind the shop.
525 Brewery Tap.  An old Watney’s house, established before 1881.
538-540 Plaza Cinema.  Opened as the Kingsland Imperial Picture Theatre in 1912. In early 1933, it was closed, and re-opened as the Plaza Cinema. It was operated by Kingsland Pictures Ltd. And t closed in 1959.  The building was converted into a shop and the upper parts were in use as a Snooker Hall. It was demolished in 2009
539 Star and Garter pub, now a pawnbroker.
578 Hysteria Bar
588 Visions Video Bar
600 Crown and Castle.  Italianate building probably dating from the 1870s. A pub with this name was here in 1861 and a previous pub here may have been the Cock & Castle taken over in 1818 by Combe’s Brewery from Dickinson & Co. of Clerkenwell.  It became a Watney house, and known for music (I personally saw a band here playing on the hot water bottle and rubber duck). It closed in 2006 and now sells noodles. The crown ands castle signage remains on the street corner frontage.
Kingsland Waste market – this was between Forest Road and Middleton Road. It is on Saturdays and began as a tool market. It now sells household items, ornaments, hardware tools, clothes and household parts

Martel Place
This is on the site of the North London Line’s Eastern Curve and leads to Dalston shopping city's car park

Queensbridge Road
451 Victoria pub
Granite setts in alleyway

Ramsgate Street
Kinetica 14 storey housing block

Tyssen Street
Springfield House is the former Shannon Furniture factory of 1903-5 by Edwin Sachs.  Steelwork encased in concrete, brick-faced, with heavy eaves. It was also occupied by Marconi Wireless Telegraph Company from 1906.

Sources
Abbott Street Studio. Web site
Aldous. Village London
Arcola Theatre. Web site
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clarke. Hackney,
Clunn. The Face of London
Dalston Junction Station. Wikipedia Web site
Field. London Place Names,
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Holy Trinity School. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Railway Record
London Remembers. Web site.
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway
Signal Box. Web site
Sinclair. Hackney. That Rose Red Empire
Trinity Centre. Web site
Willatts. Streets of Islington
Wright. A Journey Through the Ruins

Saturday, 25 January 2014

North London Line Railway Dalston

North London Line
The railway continues northwards
TQ 33881 84511

Inner city suburban area with schools and churches along with much local authority housing, and speculative 19th developments now become fashionable.


(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the south  east quarter for this square.)

Post to the south Haggerston
Post to the north Dalston Junction

Acer Road
The current Acer Road is a new cut through with new build housing as part of the 2011 Holly Street Regeneration Project. Acer Road has however moved about a bit – relatively recently it was part of Richmond Road, and previously elsewhere.

Albion Drive.
Queensbridge Primary School. London School Board School Opened in 1898 as Queen's Road School. It is a monumental building with a four-storey central section. The type developed from the 1870s, to the three-decker compositions of T.J. Bailey in the 1890s. It was reorganised in 1923 and again in 1929 by then taking senior boys, juniors and infants. It was renamed as Queensbridge Road School in 1939. By 1951 it was primary only. It also housed the Hackney Teachers’ centre.

Albion Square
The square was inherited in 1838 by the Middleton family and Sir William Middleton commissioned the building of the square in 1844. Work was done by a local builder Islip Odell, and supervised by Middleton's surveyor, George Pownell. It has houses on three sides.  Many houses are either nationally or locally listed and a number of them maintain show piece gardens.
Gardens. In 1898 the central garden was acquired from Lady de Saumarez through grants from the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, the Metropolitan Board of Works and the LCC. The garden was then laid out by Fanny Wilkinson, landscape gardener to the MPGA. The garden had four London plane trees planted in a square, each with a circular seat round the trunk. The Garden was given to Hackney Vestry in 1899 and it was opened by Lord Meath, Chair of the MPGA,
Garden pavilion. This is a wooden building structure with a pitched roof.
Drinking Fountain. This is a stone water fountain including a trough. There are Flower and foliage details with the initials 'PE'. The inscription reads: 'THIS GARDEN WAS LAID OUT IN 1890 FOR PUBLIC ENJOYMENT BY THE METROPOLITAN PUBLIC GARDEN ASSOCIATION LANCASTER GATE AND IN 1910 THE SAME ASSOCIATION THROUGH THE GENEROSITY OF J PASSMORE EDWARDS ESQ WAS ENABLED TO COMPLETE ITS WORK BY ERECTING THERIN THIS DRINKING FOUNTAIN FOR FREE PUBLIC USE WHICH THE METROPOLITAN BOROUGH COUNCIL OF HACKNEY HAS KINDLY AGREED TO MAINTAIN.

Albion Terrace
Albion Hall. This was on the west side and the housed the Kingsland, Dalston and De Beauvoir Town Scientific Institution in 1850. It was leased to the London County Council from 1906, but it is now demolished.  There is now pastiche housing on the site built in 1994
Albion Baths. This was a privately owned pool built in the 1860s. It was closed by the 1890s and taken over by the London School Board to use as an educational facility.  It was bombed in 1944 and later demolished to be replaced by pre-fabs.  There is now pastiche housing on the site.

Beehive Close
Beehive was the name of a pub in Holly Street
Evergreen Play Association. Adventure playground

Evergreen Square
Playspace by Snug and Outdoor. Half the square is a dynamic play space and the other half provides a more peaceful environment. A poem by Chris Meade and primary school pupils is in the paving, the benches and in steel panels at the entrances.

Frederick Terrace
This is a narrow passage alongside the railway and slum cleared in the 1930s.  Railway arches with businesses in them.

Glebe Road
A long narrow passage alongside the railway paved with granite setts. Works and warehouses along it are now light industry and studios.

Haggerston Road
All Saints.  This was built in 1855-6 designed by Philip Hardwick. It has a ragstone exterior with decorated windows. The aisles were rebuilt and extended with galleries by T. E. Knightley, with galleries on iron columns. In 1998, it became a United Benefice with Holy Trinity with St Philip, Dalston
War Memorial.  This is in the churchyard and is a cross. On the base is written “To the greater glory of God and in proud and thankful memory of the men of this church and parish who laid down their lives in the Great War 1914 – 1919”.
Stonebridge common. In 1883 the triangular area in the north of today’s park was given to the Hackney Board of Works and protected under the London Squares and Enclosures Preservation Act of 1906. This was an asphalt playground with trees round the border'. This area is now paved with an obelisk in the middle.
Stonebridge Gardens.  Play park with a large blue snake installed by Free Form in 1981. It is named from a stone bridge that crossed the Pigwell Stream here and marked the boundary between the parishes of Hackney and Shoreditch. It was created after post-war house clearance.
Stairs up to the railway with locked gate
Railway bridge – this bridge on the original North London Line Kingsland Viaduct has had a replacement deck for the Overground line. Under the bridge the road is lowered below the level of the pavements and the surrounding houses to allow taller vehicles to pass under
260 Duke of Wellington. Courage pub used by locals for local events

Holly Street
Holly Street Estate. This was completed in 1968. Its centrepiece was a U-shaped group of maisonettes; plus four twenty-storey system-built towers. In 1993 two of the towers were demolished, and a year programme was begun of low-rise rebuilding and rehabilitation by Levin Bernstein.
Terrace housing 1948 by the Borough Engineer, George Downing
30 Queensbridge Sports and Community Centre

Jacaranda Grove
The road is built on the site of Orchard Cottage, later, in the early 20th infirmary for horses.

Mapledene Road
54 Mapledene and Stonebridge Children’s Centre

Middleton Road
Hackney Pentecostal Apostolic Church. This is in an old Congregational church and has been there since the 1970s. The Congregational church originated in Shoreditch and this building dates form 1838. It is in brick with a stone front. It closed in the late 1940s and taken over by the Pentecostal church who rebuilt the church behind the street front.
Railway bridge. The abutments have been admired. This bridge on the original North London Line Kingsland Viaduct has had a replacement deck for the Overground line. Under the bridge the road is lowered below the level of the pavements and the surrounding houses to allow taller vehicles to pass under

Queensbridge Road
355 Grange Court. This is the only remaining tower of the Holly Road estate - kept for use for elderly tenants.
LMNT Restaurant in what was the Duke of Richmond pub.

Richmond Road
3 Star House, which was previously Cleveland House. Electrical sub station, built to power the electrified railway tracks. This has been a factory and a church. It is now Dalston Department Store with event and gallery space. Powerhouse Church is also based there.
Carriage sidings side north of Richmond Road. These were located in their own section of cutting on the North London Railway, and a few yards of original track survived which before the line was rebuilt.
Dalston Methodist Church. The church was originally in Mayfield Road, to the rear of the present church and  was built by Wesleyan Methodists in 1865. The Minister's wife was killed when a flying bomb damaged the manse and church in 1945. A new church was built on the same site in 1960, but was known as Richmond Road Church.
Road bridge over the railway in a ‘dogleg’s
1 Passing Clouds. Club


Sources
Aldous. Village London
All Saints. Web site
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney.
Clarke. Hackney, 
Clunn. The Face of London
Field. London Place Names, 
Hackney Society Newsletter
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Remembers. Web site.
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway 
Sinclair, Hackney That Rose Red Empire
Sinclair. Lights Out for the Territory.
Willatts. Streets of Islington

Thursday, 23 January 2014

North London Railway - Haggerston

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the north east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The railway continues go run northwards

Post to the south Haggerston
Post to the north Dalston


Broke Walk
This is roughly the line of Broke Road where St.Paul’s Church and associated schools stood slightly to the east

Regents Canal
Original Rail Bridge carrying the North London Line this was a two span half through bridge with a deck of longitudinal box girders and cross girders of wrought iron plates. The deck was supported on iron columns next to the tow path.
Gas Works wall from Laburnum Street.  A large brick wall dominated the canal on its south side where the Gas, Light & Coke Co.. had its gas works
Laburnam Boat Club. This opened in 1983 on some of the site of the Independent Gas Works. A small group of local people who formed the Club spent years clearing the site, dredging the basin and building the timber A-frame Club Hut. There are hundreds of children and young people in Haggerston in need of affordable, accessible physical recreation.  The club uses the basin to which coal was delivered by barge.
Horse ramps in the side of the canal on this stretch. They are there so horses could be led out of the anal after they had fallen in.
New Rail Bridge.  As a replacement Hackney Council wanted a structure which would stand out. It is thought to be the first tied arch bridge on a mainline railway since Brunel’s bridge of 1849 at Windsor.  A singe span bridge also meant that they could avoid the CEGB cable which runs under the towpath. The original abutments were kept to support the bridge but the foundations of the northern ones needed to be redug.
Entrance to Haggerston Basin. At one time piling on the canal wall could be seen at the point at which the entrance to the basin left the canal to go into the Imperial Company’s Gas Works in Whiston Road. There is now housing on the site


Duston Road.
Samuel House. Last to be demolished of the Haggerston Estate, redeveloped by London and Quadrant.  Arts project before demolition.
Bollard. 19th cast gun post inscribed "BOROUGH OF SHOREDITCH

Haggerston Road.
Regents Canal Bridge. This is the original bridge built 1816-20 with some later alterations. It is a single span brick bridge and an elliptical arch. The parapets were partly rebuilt in the late 19th. . There are iron guards to protect the stonework. 
164 Seventh Day Adventist Church. The church was originally based in Stoke Newington and moved here in 1980.
All Saints Centre. Meeting Rooms and community space.  Clowns Gallery and Museum. This is a private museum founded in 1960 to house pictures and artifacts relating to clowning and its history from earliest times. It also has props, costumes and a literary archive. Registered clown faces stored on painted eggs.


Laburnum Street
Bridge Academy. This once was the Laburnum Street Board School with an addition dated 1908. The new UBS sponsored academy is an innovative vertical compact school shaped around a multi-level 'heartspace' Conceived as a piece of architectural origami of 2008. A transparent ethylene tetra fluoro ethylene cushion, is stretched over the outside of the building. It was designed by BDP as a 'seven-level interactive learning environment'.  It specialises in music and mathematics.
Shoreditch Independent Gas Light and Coke Co.   This company was started in the mid-1820s and, once they had a site began to make gas about a year later.  It belonged to two employees of the Gas Light and Coke Company who following some problems settled for Haggerston buying land from Rhodes, the building and brickmaking contractors.  The proprietors were mainly local businessmen but at a share auction the police had to be called.’  The works had a frontage on the Regent’s Canal and an inlet for coal deliveries was built off the canal. The first of years proceeded without incident, apart from legal action by the Regent’s Canal Company for their effluent disposal. but the company’s shares crashed in 1826 it was reconstituted  The works was operational until 1900 - it had been taken over by the Gas Light and Coke Co. in 1876. The site was cleared later and stove and meter workshops were there until the 1950s. The site is now housing.
Kingsland Estate.  LCC estate now demolished

Lee Street
Haggerston Station The station was opened in 2010 with a service between Dalston Junction and New Cross or New Cross Gate. Later that year services were extended New Cross Gate to West Croydon or Palace. The station was designed by Acanthus LW Architects with a design recalling the style of here is a large mural to Edmond Halley, who was born locally

Queensbridge Road,
Regents Canal bridge. This is a simple single span bridge with an elliptical arch. It is in 18th red brick, with outer parts of 19th stock brick. The parapet coping is still later engineering brick.
Distillery. This is marked on 1890s maps and speculatively is the Analytical Laboratory of Barnett and Foster Ltd
Queens Road Chapel. This was a Baptist church.

Stean Street
The Kray Twins were born here
Old Haggerston Station. This was slightly south of the current Haggerston Station. It was opened in 1867. The Company first intended to name it De-Beauvoir Town Station but changed their minds before completion. It was a two storey building of yellow stocks brick which was in the south side of Lee Street and by the late 1930s it was little used. At track level the layout was similar to Shoreditch, with platforms serving the original three lines only, and in platform on the line added in 1874. Trains stopped calling in 1940 and soon after the building was bombed as was the signal box. The wooden platform buildings had gone by the 1960s and the platforms were covered in foliage.
Signal box - 'No.l' was at the north end of the island platform
Signal box – No.2. Was built out from the viaduct, at the south end of the station,

Whiston Road
Haggerston Baths.  Built in 1903-4 by the baths specialist, A. W. S. Cross in red brick with Baroque detail. The pediment has the reclining figures of a man and a woman modelled by Frederick Schenck, carved by Martyn and Co. There is a cupola with a gilded ship weathervane. Originally it has a swimming pool, 91 slipper baths and a 60 stall laundry wash house. It closed in 2000 but in June 2009 after a long community campaign, a grant was announced but this is now on hold
151 community centre for refugees from Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
Old King Johns Head. Pub, closed and demolished
Bryant Court – this and other block of flats in the area now demolished.
Entrance gate to the park with an adjacent shelter with seating and brick piers supporting a balcony above. This is accessed by spiral staircase.

Sources
Bridge Academy Web site
Bridge works on the East London Line extension. Web site
Cinema Treasures Web site
Clarke. Hackney
Clunn. The Face of London
Dodds. London Then,
Essex Lopresti. The Regent’s Canal
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Haggerston Station.  Wikipedia. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mary’s gas books. Web site
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Robins. North London Railway
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Stewart. Gasworks of the North Thames Division

Monday, 20 January 2014

North London Railway - Haggerston

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the south east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The North London Railway continues northwards

Post to the south Bethnal Green Boundary Estate
Post to the north Haggerston


Cremer Street
The road was in the past Thomas Street and then Harwar Street after Harwar Almshouses. It is said to have been full of pretty cottages
Harwar Almshouses. These stood on the corner with Kingsland Road and were in both roads. They were built in 1710 as part of a bequest from Samuel Harwar funded by income from land, mainly in Kent and administered by the Drapers Company. They were demolished as being beyond modernising, pensions were provided with the remaining income and shops and a factory built on the Kingsland Road.
1-13 17-25 large 1960’s industrial building on four floors, on two adjoining sites, converted to provide 90 studios,
Arch 402 Gallery. This opened in 2010 and showcases up-coming artists. It is in a railway arch next to Hoxton station, and includes an outside space
37 Cremer Business Centre
Peabody flats on the site of a former multi-storey car pack
32 Marquis of Lansdowne. Closed in 2000 and derelict –may have been demolished.

Dawson Street
Nursery School which had been part of Scawfell Street School. The site is now modern flats

Dunloe Street
Mother Kate Homes. In 1866, three nursing sisters from the Anglican Society of St Margaret, East Grinstead moved here to come here to help the poor and cholera victims. The sisters built St Saviour’s Priory in 1890 naming it the Mother Kate Homes, after a former nun. It was used in the Second World War as an air raid shelter. In 1976, the convent was extended with a block, Designed by Laurence King. It is now an Anglican community of ordained and lay women, running retreats workshops
St.Chad. Built by the Haggerston Churches Scheme in 1867-9 by Stoke Newington based  James Brooks, the architect of several forceful churches built for the, but Now the only one of them in use by the Church of England.  It is a tall, compact building of red brick, in austere Early Gothic. It has a timber bell-turret above the crossing, and no tower.
Vicarage, also by Brooks, of 1873-4 in red brick with a circular turret.
Low rise housing built -by-housing associations in the 1990s
Dunloe Street Depot. This London & North Western Railway Depot was in use 1893-1968. Dunloe Street Signal Box. It was on the viaduct and served a small goods yard belonging to the London & North Western Railway, also at viaduct level but served as a section splitter on this route. Access from ground level was via a circular iron staircase. Although is survived longer than most such boxes Its importance fell as train service were reduced and it was no longer used in the early 1970s. In 1976, the signal arms were removed and the levers bolted it was however retained in case a need arose. The line closed in 1986

Geffrye Street
Hoxton Station. This station was opened to the public in 2010, with services between running Dalston and New Cross soon after extended to Croydon or ‘Crystal Palace. In 1993 London Underground had originally proposed the station on a line from Whitechapel to Dalston.  It is sited on the tracks which lead to the Dunloe Street Depot. It is a two-platform station with the ticket office and entrance under the viaduct. Access to the platforms is via a lift and stairs
372 Art gallery in arches under the railway
385 bakery in arches under the railway
397 – 400 café, bar in the railway arches below Hoxton station.
War Memorial. This memorial was originally erected in 1921 at Broad Street Station. When Broad Street was demolished it was moved to Richmond Station car park. It was erected here in Hoxton, with a rededication ceremony in 2010. Hoxton is on the lines that used to run into Broad Street and so is a more appropriate location than Richmond. The inscription says ‘In memory of North London Railwaymen who fell in the Great War, 1914 - 1919.’ the other three sides carry a list of 65 names.

Hackney Road
Several stretches of 19th terraces some with shop fronts built over gardens.
137 Flying Scud. This was on the corner of Cremer Street but now demolished. It was a 1860s public house with rooms above. The front was overlaid with white tiles probably from.1910 when what had been a beer house was re-modelled for Truman, Hanbury and Buxton. The Flying Scud was a sailing-ship of the 1850’s and the name of a race horse of the 1870s. In 1901, there was a West End hit drama called “The Flying Scud,” featuring a live horse on stage.
155 Chip shop, once the Manchester Arms pub.
Fellows Court.  Two tower blocks from a rebuilding Commissioned by Shoreditch Borough Council in 1963.
193 The British Lion Pub. This has a single-storey, Edwardian bar extension on a 19th terraced house. It has its shop front with plate-glass windows and glazed tiles
211 Odeon cinema, this was the 124th Odeon opened in 1938 designed Andrew Mather, in Art Deco style, stream-lined design with a smooth elevation to the road faced in white tiles. It closed as a cinema in 1961, and was converted into a Top Rank Bingo Hall – the first such conversion
162 Chapelgate. Housing in a converted church. In 1797 the Middlesex chapel was built here, described as an ‘independent meeting house’ (marked merely as M on the Horwood plan) and many important preachers spoke there on ethical and religious issues of the day.  In 1888 it was reorganised as the Hackney Road branch of the Wesleyan Missionary society.
The Strangest Week – this was alongside Diss Street by graffiti artist Ben Seine. Since removed.

Horatio Street
Horatio House, Built in 1936 and part of the Peabody Nags Head Estate. It has balconies stacked on iron columns. Each block on the estate had dated rainwater hoppers decorated with horse heads.

Kent Street
St.Mary’s Community Hall

Ormsby Street
Randall Cremer Primary School. Very plain school built 1875.called after Randall Cremer, MP for the area in the 1880s
Wall down the west side – above this were the Dunloe Street Depot sidings.

Pearson Street
Apples and Pears. Adventure playground founded in the 1980s
St.Mary's Community Garden. This is named after St Mary's Church which was nearby but destroyed by bombing in the Second World War. Where the garden is now was terraced housing, but it was replaced after the Second World War with pre-fabs, themselves demolished in the 1970s. An old street lamp remains within the garden. In the 1990s local residents agreed with the GLC to establish a community garden here. From .1997 -l 2003, it was run by Thrive as a project for people with mental health issues and various disabilities. In 2003 it was renamed St Mary's Secret Garden and is now run as a community garden.
24 Rankin’s Glass. This firm dates to the 1880s but also include Ide’s who dated from the 1830s.  They make specially toughened glass and moved to Shoreditch having been bombed out of Farringdon Road in the 1940s. They are in the space under the old Dunloe Street Rail Depot.

Queensbridge Road
Once called Great Cambridge  Street
St Saviour's Priory.  This is one of the autonomous Houses of the Society of St Margaret founded by John Mason Neale. The priory was built in the 19th and reconstructed in the 1970s. This is an Anglican nursing order that came here in the mid-19th.  Their very large building is available for retreats, etc.   Their church is to the east of this square and is now an art gallery.
Haggerston Park. The park was developed in two phases - the old gas works was in the northern half of the site and became a public park in the late 1950s and the southern half of the park was developed in the 1980s. In 1958 The London County Council began work to clear the old gas works site and turn it into a park. At first this was just the area within the gas works walls. The walled garden was laid out out in Arts and Crafts style. Further expansion in the 1960s  -80s led to the purchase of the remainder of the existing park site south of Edith Street on land previously taken up with housing.  Other developments took place to the east. The layout is thought to have been modelled on a cruise liner and is very much in the Festival of Britain style. The 'walled garden' area of the park is mainly laid out as a lawn with two paths running north to south. The main features include a kiosk with attached pergola supported by brick piers, a large sundial sculpture with stepping stones
Gas works. This was the third works of the Imperial Gas Company - a large early speculative partly fraudulent gas company. The site was taken on a 60 year lease from Rhodes, the north London builders and brickmakers. There was a chapel on the site, which had to be demolished, and a large pond at the southern end. The works was built by George Holsworthy Palmer, eventually sacked in 1823. The works continued in use until 1954 although it has been said to be out of action through bombing since the early 1940s. Its longevity was attributed to its good position for coke sales - despite its smallness, its old-fashioned equipment and lack of a rail connection.  The great brick wall of the works still exists around the site.
Canal inlet. In February 1824, a stretch of canal was opened to the ‘acclamation of the proprietors’ as ‘Haggerston Basin’ from the Regent’s Canal, into the gas works. This Basin formed the western boundary of the works and, although long filled in, can be traced in the park where it is known as Canal Bed. This canal inlet became increasingly important since no railway ever ran near enough to the works to effect a junction for coal deliveries. In the park now it is a sunken linear lawn.
Sebright Childen's Centre
149 The Acorn Pub

Scawfell Street
Scawfell Street School. 19th school used as a secondary school and later replaced with Haggerston School and demolished.

Thurtle Road
Was Brunswick Road
St. Mary Church built in 1826 by Nash.  It was bombed and demolished in 1951.

Weymouth Terrace
Haggerston Girls School.   A girls' secondary school by Erno Goldfinger, 1962-7, and his only secondary school for the London County Council. It has a reinforced concrete frame and is made up of with three linked blocks: a central teaching spine with a library; an entrance block to the assembly hall and music rooms; and staff accommodation and gym - even the rooftop water tanks are arranged with care. There is also a caretaker’s house
Kate Greenaway Building. This was the Kate Greenaway Library designed in 1962. A colourful little building with orange mosaic-clad columns and tile panels above.  It is now a community centre with a computer training centre and AJRAF Resource Centre (Albert Joyle Relief Agency Foundation). This is roughly on the site of Brunswick Square and the Shoreditch Almshouses


Sources
Acorn Archive. Web site
Aldous. London’s Villages.
Arch 42. Web site
Cinema Treasures Web site
Clarke. Hackney,
Clunn. The Face of London
Darke. The Monument Guide
Dodds. London Then,
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Hoxton Station. Wikipedia Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
London Railway Record
London Remembers. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mary’s gas books. Web site
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Randall Cremer School. Web site
Robins. North London Railway
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Signal Box. Web site
Stewart. Gasworks of the North Thames Division
St.Mary’s Secret Green. Web site
Summerson, Georgian London
Walford. Highgate and Hampstead to the Lea
Willatts. Streets of Islingt

Saturday, 18 January 2014

North London Railway - Bethnal Green Boundary Estate

North London Railway
The Railway continues to run northwards
TQ 33614 82568

(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – another quarter to go with the previous two quarters for this square.)  This is the north east corner.

This is an inner city area around the amazing Boundary Road estate. There is much of interest - in particular the Mildmay Mission stands out as do some of the initiatives of Angela Burdett Coutts. This was an area of terrible poverty - the Old Nichol.

Post to the west Hoxton
Post to the north Haggerston
Post to the south Spitalfields


Arnold Circus
The Boundary Estate was the result of a major slum clearance of the 1890s. This area, called Friars Mount, was part of an area parcelled out in building leases in the early 19th and may have been named after a farmer called Fryer.  It had become an area of speculative building and absentee landlords.  Housing, originally cottages for weavers, had been crammed and infilled with badly built and ruinous dwellings with little drainage or water supply and grossly overcrowded inhabited by those barely able to make a living. One in every four children born here died in childhood. Its poverty and desperation drew philanthropists from the late 18th and reformers attempted to improve health and housing. The London County Council was instrumental in bringing about a change more than any other. The Boundary Estate is a milestone. The 1890 Housing of the Working Classes Act enabled the London County Council to develop a comprehensive plan of clearance and redevelopment for rehousing of 5,300 people. The plan was developed from 1893 under a Housing of the Working Classes Branch of the LCC’s Architect's Department had been set up under Owen Fleming. They planned the estate around a central circus with radiating tree-lined avenues. Two blocks were designed by Rowland Plumbe and the remaining nineteen buildings were undertaken by the council under their architect, W.E.Riley. Each block designed by a different architect while maintaining a unity through the use of common brick, and decoration. There were also 18 shops, a surgery, workshops, costermonger’s sheds, and a central laundry with bathrooms, two clubrooms, and two school sites. It was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1900.  
Circular Garden.  Streets radiate out from the central garden on the mound which is the focus of the estate. In the middle is a high terraced garden with a timber bandstand. The Site of the Mount has been said to be an ancient mound and ley line from St Martin in the Field. There is however no sign of a mound on older maps and the mound in fact consists of building rubble and domestic waste. The buildings around the circus set the tone and the building style for the estate. These gardens were built as the first where a social space, for public arts and cultural events was seen as a fundamental part of, and central to the design of a social housing.  In the early 21st a Friends Group has overseen restoration and enhancement work.   Iron Railings and overthrows with decorative panels.
Bandstand, this Forms a focal point visible from each of the radiating streets of the estate. It is Octagonal in Japanese style in wood with a tiled roof and a clapboard balustrade. It was erected in 1912,
Chertsey House. One of the five blocks around the circus.  It was designed by R. Minton Taylor built 1895-6. It is in red brick with pink banding to brickwork on the 2nd and 3rd floors. On the Ground floor is a central round arched door.
Hurley House.  Red brick glazed ground floor with stuccoed string course above
Sandford House.  Smaller, charming, with three-bay fronts, wider bands of pink and orange brick and windows framed by projecting vertical strips. Designed by R Minton Taylor and completed in 1895-6
Iffley House. Classically detailed and designed, 1896-8 by A.M. Phillips. The entrance is at the rear, leaving the facade free for a pair of broad windows to the ground floor in glazed brown brick.
Marlow House. Built in 1899 in red brick, there are contemporary shop fronts on the ground floor
Marlow Workshops. Behind Marlow House is a short row of two-storey workshops built behind by the LCC for small businesses displaced by the slum clearance in 1899. They are b Red brick,
Shiplake House. This flanks the opening to Arnold Circus. It was built in 1899 in red brick. The ground floor has contemporary shop fronts
Rochelle Primary School. This is a London School Board school of 1879 by E.R. Robson. The caretaker’s house is part of the site and was added in 1899 by T.J.Bailey. It is a half-octagon with a chimney with a plaque giving indicates the date of construction which shows it was built as part of the reconstruction of the Boundary Street area. Bailey also added the Infant School with its covered playground on the roof.  There is a brick wall surrounding the school and iron railings with urn finials. The buildings are now home to a community of graphic designers, architects, media companies, fashion brands and artists. The main school is now the Studio Block Home to a community of artists and creative industries housed in workspace studios in the old classrooms. There is a meeting room and two former school assembly halls also available. The infants’ school is now called Club Row offering flexible spaces for hire. The Rochelle Canteen is in part of the playground and the rest of the playground has been landscaped to provide a lawn, bicycle parking, outdoor eating area and allotments.

Austin Street
Mildmay Mission and Hospice. Mildmay began in the 1860s and the work carried out by Rev Pennefather, vicar at St Jude’s, Mildmay Park. He developed projects known as Mildmay Institutions, giving spiritual guidance and care for the sick setting up a dispensary. They responded initially in 1866 to a cholera outbreak in some of the worst slums. The work of the deaconesses expanded and the first Mission Hospital was set up in an old warehouse near Shoreditch Church in 1890-2 built by the hospital specialist R.H. Hill with later additions. It had 27 beds and 1892 Mildmay Mission Hospital opened. It joined the National Health Service in 1948 but was regarded as uneconomic because of its size and was closed down in 1982. Its supporters began the fight for survival it reopened in 1988 as Europe’s first hospice for people with HIV/AIDS. As medication developed and need changed, Mildmay changed its focus from end of life care to specialised rehabilitation. Today Mildmay is at the forefront of specialist HIV service delivery and care and the the only evangelical mission hospital left in Britain.  Redeveloped in 2004 by Feilden Clegg Bradley.
Providence Chapel. This originally fronted onto to Austin Street but its replacement Tabernacle now fronts onto Hackney Road.  It’s burial-ground which opened in 1835 is now under low-rise flats facing onto Austin Street.

Baroness Road
Named after Angela Burdett-Coutts and covers some of the area of her Columbia Market.  It is now system built local authority housing.
St Thomas Church. This was built in 1848, designed by Lewis Vulliamy. And financed by William Cotton as a memorial to his son. The church was damaged during Second World War bombing and demolished.

Boundary Street
The road marked the division between the parishes of Shoreditch and Bethnal Green. By the end of the 19th it also marked the boundary between 'respectable' East London and the 'criminal' district.
Cleeve Workshops. Built 1895-8. By Reginald Minton Taylor of London County Council. In yellow brick and each workshop has a wide door planked with the upper part glazed units. An integral part of the Boundary Street Estate and still house small businesses.
William the Conqueror. Pub which has been derelict but may not be now.

Brick Lane
This end of Brick Lane was once known as Turk Street.
Weavers Community Trust offices

Calvert Avenue
This was the original main road leading from Shoreditch High Street to the area of the boundary estate. It was widened and extended to provide a grander entrance to the estate. The tree-lined Avenue was remodelled with shops facing the road and workshops behind. Some original shop fronts remain.
28 Boundary Estate Community Laundrette. In 1990 the Boundary Estate Tenants Association was approached by the Environment Trust with funding for a community enterprise. The launderette idea was formed, and it opened in 1992 as a not-for-profit community business
Cleeve House. Tenement block built in 1895-9 by Reginald Minton Taylor of London County Council Architects Department. It is in red brick with original shop fronts on the ground floor with plate glass windows in timber frames. It is an integral part of the Boundary Street Estate.

Columbia Road
Names after the bishopric of British Columbia founded by Angela Burdett Coutts in 1857.
In the 18th Shoreditch's began to expand along Columbia Road, then known as Crabtree Row and just a lane leading to the Nag's Head pub on Hackney Road.  The eastern end was called Birdcage Walk after 1760 and was part of the estate of the Jesus Hospital, Barnet founded by James Ravenscroft. By the 19th the area was full of workshops and poor quality housing.  
Leopold Buildings. Built in 1872 for Sydney Waterlow's Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. on land belonging to Angela Burdett Coutts. The blocks extended the possibilities of the flat prototype which had been developed by Waterlow's builder, Matthew Al1en, in the 1860s.  Most of the flats are within a large symmetrical terrace with open stairs and access balconies behind curly iron balustrades and with the company's usual decoration. They were refurbished in 1996 by Floyd Slaski Partnership for Ujima Housing who added new stair-towers at the rear while maintaining the integrity of the original façade.
Cuff Point. Tower block by the GLC Architects, 1972 on land previously a nursery adjacent to the market area. It is 14 storeys in brick
Columbia Market Nursery School. Founded in 1930 and built by the London County Council Architects' Department. It has a timer frame and is planned around a courtyard which was enclosed in 1935.  Nurseries in this era followed the principles of the Macmillan sisters in Greenwich. In 1928, the LCC resolved to build two experimental nurseries – this was one of them. The first head-teacher noted that of the first 88 children around 80 percent were inadequately nourished. Outside are Gothic railings and gate piers, the sole remnants of the Columbia Market 
27 Columbia Road Youth Project
Columbia Market. This failure was the gift of Angela Burdett-Coutts as an attempt to improve conditions in the east end. She hoped to provide a market place were traders could provide fresh and wholesome food.  Her architect was Henry Darbishire and it cost £200,000 to build.  It was erected on the site of a dust-heap, and had a Gothic hall, fifty feet high, with rich external decorations. It was also planned for a railway line to be built from the Dunloe Street area on the North London Railway to the market.   It was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1869.  It closed within six months.  It was reopened as a fish market but doomed through opposition from Billingsgate. It was then given to the City Corporation and three years later they gave it back. It reopened as a meat market, then as another fish market – In 1885 it finally closed. By 1905 it belonged to the London County Council and after bombing had been used as a depot. In the early 1960s preservation of a building was not considered and it was demolished in 1960
Columbia Buildings. Were built 1859 - 1862 by Angela Burdett-Coutts, who had bought up the densely-populated, slum Nova Scotia Gardens. Integrated with the market on four sides they were to be model dwellings for the working classes.  Henry Darbishire, later architect to Peabody, designed them. They provided 180 sets of rooms, which housed more than 1,000 people and also reading rooms and laundry facilities. They were demolished from the mid 1950s.
Newling Estate, including Old Market Square – this was built on the site of Columbia Market in 1963-4 by the London County Council. Newling was the name of a local street, now gone.
Sivill House - Flats on site of Columbia Dwellings. This is a brick double tower block by Skinner & Bailey, 1964-6. The two blocks are linked by a circular service tower with a dramatic internal spiral staircase. The geometric patterning of the elevations is y Lubetkin and are stylised versions of dragons on a rug from the Caucasus which hung on the wall of his studio. The block has 76 flats over 19 floors. Was named after Cllr. Sivill who was a Mayor of Bethnal Green.
42 Bird Cage pub.  Bird cages in the ceiling. Established in 1760 and recently renovated in ‘classic Truman pub style’
Flower Market. Successor to Columbia Market. This is a long-established Sunday flower market, one of the largest in London by 1900
73 Royal Oak Pub, designed in 1925 by Truman's architect A.E. Sewell, in a variation of his Anglo-Dutch style with curved faience-clad gables. Inside is an unusual glass ceiling.
Ravesnscroft Park. Neighbourhood park created from demolitions as new estates replaced old housing and factories in the 1960s.
Columbia Primary School. Opened in1875 as Barnet Street board and renamed as Columbia Road School in 1888

Diss Street
Vaughan Estate. A cluster of two-storey buildings, making up about 20 flats. Inset into the wall, is a stone plaque with details of the opening of the estate in 1922. It was named after Bethnal Green’s Mayor Joseph Vaughan and formed part of the Diss Street Re-Housing Scheme.
Dorset Library. Now out of use as a library which was a 1950s two storey circular building.  Its upper storey, for a community room, originally overhung the ground floor.
Dorset Estate. Built 1955-7 by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin. It has eight blocks, each named after one of the Tolpuddle Martyrs. Most of the flats are in a pair of eleven-storey Y-shaped blocks with patterned facades in reinforced concrete.

Ebor Street
The back of Lipton's block of 1933 by Hal Williams & Co.,
No doubt expensive graffiti


Equity Square
New housing on the site of an old Quaker burial ground. Previously called The Quaker Square. In use from 1792 until 1855 as the grounds of a Congregational chapel. 

Ezra Street
1 a large warehouse by WA. Finch, 1894, converted and reconstructed for industrial units and residential studios in 1991 by Hunt Thompson Associates. Now includes a furniture maker.

Gascoigne Place
Dunmore Point. Built in 1966 tower block with 14 floors.

Gibraltar Walk
1-9 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops
Gibraltar Chapel was said to be congregational chapel, and also said to be Wesleyan. In addition the burial ground is said to be Quaker (see above)

Goresuch Street
Workshops converted into housing

Gosset Street
Bethnal Green Academy. Formerly known as Daneford and Bethnal Green High School and Bethnal Green Technology College. It became co-educational in 1997. Daniel Secondary school had been opened by the School Board for London in 1900 in new buildings. After the Second World War it was reorganised and was a secondary modern school from 1955. It was amalgamated with Mansford Secondary school to form Daneford in 1959. Its most famous alumni are the Kray twins. 

Hackney Road
Mildmay Mission Hospital.  The main building now fronts on Austin Street. An extension faced Hackney Road built in 1964-5 and has been replaced. Clinic by Powell Moya Partnership, 1994 with bedrooms on the upper floors with balconies overlooking Hackney Road.
11a Printing House Yard
18-20 Shoreditch Tabernacle. This was originally Providence chapel and began with a group associated with ragged schools in the area in the 1830s.They acquired a site in Austin Street in 1835 for a chapel for Particular or Calvinistic Baptist and a new schoolroom was added in 1844. The building was in a simple classical style. By the congregation was working-class and social work was increasingly important. The building was neglected and damaged by bombing in 1944, and was demolished in 1960. A new brick chapel opened in 1963.
Recreation  Ground. Open area with big trees and a table tennis table. This is the former graveyard of  St.Leonard's Church which closed for burials in 1857. Shoreditch Council took it over soon after and levelled it as a playground - with a forma layout. Later there was a tennis court added.
69 Ye Olde Axe. Tiled pub front, fruity swags, and corner turrets said to be mirrors and booths inside. The pub dates from the mid 19th and is said to be haunted.  Now a night club with strippers.
79 Welsh Chapel. This is now a new build Tesco

Hocker Street
Virginia School boundary wall. This is in stock brick with red and blue brick and stone. There are entrances and wrought iron gates.
Sunbury Workshops are two-storey in eight units, of four workshops each, with central recessed entrance, loading door and hoist jib, very large cast-iron windows, and a north-light roof. Designed by C.C. Winmill 1894

Horatio Street
32 Nelson’s Head.Pub

Kirton Gardens
Low rise 1960s local authority housing

Long Street
Area of industrial units. The County of London Plan of 1943 had recommended new flatted factory areas for clothing, furniture and related industries. A scheme here in Long Street was the first undertaken by the London County Council and many of the first tenants had been displaced due to public housing programmes in Bethnal Green.

Factories designed in 1955 by LCC Architect, Hubert Bennett and constructed in pre-cast concrete. There are three main blocks, providing a total of 56 workshops on four floors.  Another block was built further down the street. Behind the blocks, by the railway viaduct, were lock-up storage units and parking spaces.

A smaller factory block was built on the south side of the street
 
Montclare Street
Cookham House. This is a contrast with the early residential blocks nearby. Said to be in a mature style and built in 1897 by R. Minton Taylor. The wall plane is broken with tall, projecting bays and two-storey gables.  It is in red brick
Porters’ House. This is the old laundry. The absence of washing facilities within the blocks mean a communal laundry was needed although no bath-house was provided. Built in 1894-6 by William Hynam.


Navarre Street
Wargrave House. Built 1897 and designed by William Hynam
Hedsor House, one of four designs by C.C. Winmill 1898
Abingdon House, 1896-8 by A.M. Phillips, a conical tiled roof above the corner with Boundary Street

Padbury Court
16-30 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops

Palissy Street
Taplow House. Built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill

Pelter Street
Medical Centre. Built in 1993 by Stock Woolstencroft, in stripy brick with a projecting glazed upper floor over the entrance.

Ravenscroft Street
4 Ravenscroft pub. This was the Royal Victoria designed by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin. In matching style to the estate
51-61 four terraced houses and a postmodern block of flats designed by Hunt Thompson Associates.

Rochelle Street
Culham House, 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill. It is between Hurley and Sonning Houses in yellow stock bricks with red brick dressings
Shacklewell Street
A narrow cobbled street, one of the remaining original lanes.
25-35 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops
Ball games area

Shipton Street
2-14 Neo-Georgian cottage flats of 1939 by Ian B. Hamilton with large sashes and bracketed hoods to the doors,
Cottages.  Short terrace of Victorian workers' cottages with wide arched ground-floor windows.
William Fenn House is a terrace by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin in the brick and concrete livery of the Dorset Estate.
Sundial Centre – community and day centre.

Swanfield Street
74 weaver's house. This is probably 18th.
Streatley Buildings.  The LCC's first dwellings for the Boundary Estate were on the east side. Erected 1893-4. Demolished 1971. They were thought to be too Spartan in appearance and too generous in the number of self-contained flats per floor
Henley House. By Roland Plumbe 1894,
Sonning House built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill
Sunbury House built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill.


Virginia Road
The road name dares from before 1746 when it was in open country; the road was an eastward extension of Castle Street and had houses by 1682.
Virginia Primary School.  London School Board of 1875 with later alterations.  A classic Robson three-decker.
57 Three Loggerheads. Watney pub converted to flats.    The pub was there in 1722 when it was called the Two Loggerheads.  In 1990 it was renamed Turtles and closed in 1999  
Virginia Gardens – small park

Waterson Street
Flatted factory units built by the London County Council in 1955

Sources
Bird Cage. Web site
Blue Plaque Guide, English Heritage
British History Online. Bethnal Green. Web site.
City and East London Beer Guide
Clunn. London Marches On.
Clunn. The Face of London
Columbia Market. Web site
Columbia School, Web site
English Heritage. Web site
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Greater London Council.  Home Sweet Home
Hackney Society. Web site
Healey. Lady Unknown
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens Online. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Martin.  London Industry in the Nineteenth Century
Mildmay. Web site
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line
National Archives. Web site
Pastscape. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Robbins. The North London Railway
Rochelle School. Web site
TBAOG, A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London

Thursday, 16 January 2014

North London Railway - Hoxton


(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – meaning two quarters for the line of the North London Railway for this square. The two eastern quarters can wait for the future)


North London Railway
The railway line continues northwards turning north eastwards

River Walbrook
Springs contributing to the Walbrook may, or may not, rise in this area and flow south.

Post to the south Shoreditch
Post to the east Bethnal Green Boundary Estate


Basing Place
Basing Square - Berman’s Almshouses. These were built here in 1813 and resulted from funds left by Nonconformist Minister William Berman in 1700 and were for eight poor women. They were destroyed by Second World War bombing and rebuilt in Brentwood, Essex
Mission. In the 19th there was a Mission Hall here and a Wesleyan Sunday School. This also seems to have operated as an independent private school also described as a Ragged School.

Basing House Yard
This is presumably named as the yard of the adjacent pub.
Shoreditch Ambulance Station

Bath Place
This is now a gated passage under a building whereas it was once a through road between Old Street and Rivington Street.

Bowling Green Walk
8 Griffin manufacturer of dressing cases, etc 1875
City Iron Works. From 1852 this was the works of the Cornish Lawrence Brothers who held patents in lock gates and sluices

Calvert Avenue
Syd's Coffee stall. It was started by Sydney Edward Tothill in 1919 with his invalidity pension from the Great War, and has been in the same position and run by the family ever since. The business is now Hillary ‘Caterers, commemorating Sir Edmund Hillary.

Charlotte Road
43 Kemistery Gallery
63 Bricklayers Arms. Said to have once been a Mecca for local artists.

Chapel Place
This is now 318 Old Street.
The New Tabernacle Congregational Chapel is now offices and said to have a spring beneath. The New Tabernacle, was founded in 1832. It was called the 'new' Tabernacle church to distinguish it from the Methodist Tabernacle at Moorfields. It was closed in 1950.

Coronet Street
The Circus Space This was the Shoreditch Vestry Combined Generating station and Dust destructor providing electricity for the surrounding area and using the Waste heat for the public baths.  Built 1895-7 as the first such works set up to fulfil both functions. The consultant engineer was E. Manville and it was opened by Lord Kelvin. The facade is in Fletton brick and terracotta with the motto E PULVERE LUX ET VIS - Out of the dust, light and power. It was sympathetically converted to a circus training school by Philip Lancashire in 1994, with a gymnasium in the old generating hall, and a training space in the former Combustion House.
35 Bass Clef night club which closed in 1994. This was a warehouse and works for a metal merchant in the 1890s with iron cranes on the outside of the building.
39 Sh – feminist sex shop
45 Standpoint Gallery

Cottons Gardens
A narrow cobbled cul-de-sac which at one time went out into Hackney Road.
1-15 3-storey warehouse buildings are finely in red brick. There are remaining roof-mounted pulleys. These buildings were owned by John Carter and Sons Ltd and were built as Leather and Boot works by RC Hitch
6-10 4-storey warehouse building converted into flats. In 1921 a cabinetmaker and tin box maker were here and in 1944 6 was occupied by an upholsterer and. 8-10 by a glass works. Built in red brick there are still three columns of wooden loading doors with a pulley above each set.

Crooked Billet Yard
There were 17th cottages here in the 1930s
4 Shoreditch Prototype House.  Low energy house on a brownfield site. Glazed and planted façade.  Designed by the architects Cox Bulleid, this is a 3-bedroom live/work house with studio entered via a gated south-facing courtyard garden which has fragrant climbing plants on all sides.

Curtain Road
120-124 Strongroom. Recording Studio and Bar. This was a site for James Latham who began importing hardwoods into Liverpool in 1759. The firm used a site in Clapton site from 1912 but have since move to Hemel Hempstead. This site would have been to fulfill the timber needs of the local furniture trades. Strongroom started when Richard Boote opened it as a single studio in 1984. Their first album was John Cale’s ‘Artificial Intelligence’, released in 1985, followed by Nico’s ‘Camera Obscura’. Classic albums from the Housemartins and Nick Cave followed. Richard opened a second studio dedicated to emerging MIDI technology, and featured an Atari 520ST and an early Apple Mac.
127 Barley Mow Pub
134-146 Built 1880s and for C & R Light. Five-storey warehouse for storing furniture much of which was bought in from local makers. Light's sold to West End retail stores, like Maples for whom they produced catalogues. Buyers would come here and the grand facade was built to impress them.
135-139 this was the warehouse for Saul Moss & Sons, cabinet makers, and later for Beresford & Hicks.
148-150 warehouse, crane,

Drysdale Street
Previously called Edward Street
26 Formerly this was The Weavers Arms Public House.  It is in yellow stock brick. Facing Drysdale Place a recessed blind arch which once was a doorway. The wooden shop front is still there with a corner entrance with double-doors, that went into the bar

Fanshawe Street
This was once called Aske Street and a large block of flats is Aske House.
1-7 Academy Buildings. Three storey warehouses, built in the 1890s. On the front are bays containing wooden loading doors. They are now flats. The 'Academy ' refers to Hoxton Dissenting Academy which was in Hoxton Square in the 19th
Enfield Cloisters. This is a Victorian Mansion Block It was originally built around 1900 as a tenement but has since been done up
46 Lion and the Lamb. This 1950s pub is now an art gallery.

Great Eastern Street
Granite column which marks the junction with Old Street. It is inscribed ‘Great Eastern Street opened by The Metropolitan Board of Works, 187’ and ‘Neither is he that planteth any thing neither he that watereth, but God that giveth the increase’ and ‘This column erected by the vestry of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, 1880’ and  ‘The vestry of St. Leonard Shoreditch, constituted, 1855’.  Another metal plate says that it was resited in 2002. It was designed by A. Nicholson, was a local stone merchant from Lane.


Hackney Road
1 Browns strip club. This was called Horns but changed its name in the early 1980s

Hoxton Market
The actual street market is not held here but in Hoxton Street. The square and its name results from a 17th project to promote a market here.
3 Alexander Fleming Halls. Plain yellow brick student lodgings, rebuilt 1997-8
5 The Juggler Cafe
13-14 Shaftsbury House
. This was previously a Christian Mission building. On a tall rear facade of 1913 added to an earlier building; well-detailed Neo-Georgian, the windows freely grouped.  On it a plaque which says” Lewis "Daddy" Burtt, 1860 - 1935, John Burtt, 1855 - 1925, Honorary Secretary & Superintendent, Founders of Hoxton Market Christian Mission, founded in 1886. Operating from these premises from 1915, for the benefit of local people”. This was a Greek restaurant now a meat eaters restaurant
Sculpture of a juggling figure. By Simon Stringer, 1994.  To recall the music hall traditions of the area


Hoxton Square
Laid out after 1683. The square was relandscaped in 1995 and some buildings are set back behind what were once front gardens. 
Hoxton Square Academy. This settled in Hoxton in 1762.  It was started with support from the Congregational Fund Board. Its first tutor was an American Isaac Chauncey. It closed in 1785. A dissenting academy was also here in 1834 which became the first Wesleyan 'theological college'.
1 James Parkinson. Doctor and author of An Essay on the Shaking Palsy, was in practice here and there is a plaque on the site. It is now a restaurant and bar.
2-4 Lux Centre. New Burrell Foley Fischer cinema opened in 1997 a fit-out in a shell by another architect and for cutting edge, art-house films. .The interior space was designed specifically for the London Filmmakers' Co-operative. Programming was a mix of experimental and independent films. It opened in autumn 1997 and closed in 2001. It is now offices and a restaurant,
6-7 former furniture workshops built in the 1800s
8-9 former furniture workshops workshop windows. By the mid 19th the residential building of the square had been replaced by furniture workshops. Dated 1897, windows extending full width between the party walls.
10 Gothic with angular oriel, was built as a vicarage in the 1870s, probably by Drew the architect of St Peter's, which stood at the corner
Saint Peter's Church. It was established in 1869 designed by R.Drew. It was united with Saint Leonard, Shoreditch, in 1937 and the church was demolished. The site is now new buildings used as offices and a pub
St Monica’s Catholic Primary School. Built in 1870, plain Gothic. It became the Hoxton Apprentice.
16 Hoxton Apprentice. This was a charity set up to train young people as restaurant workers. It has since closed.
19 St.Monica’s Roman Catholic Church. Bui1t in 1864 and designed by Pugin. The parish was founded as a mission of the Irish Augustinians to the East End and the church was the first permanent foundation of the Augustinian friars in England since the Reformation. A gilded wooden altar with reredos was installed in 1875: consecrated by Cardinal Manning and in 1880 a Lady Chapel was created. In the front of the chapel's altar was a copy of the image preserved at the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Counsel, Genazzano. Sadly, the statues of Ss Monica and Augustine have disappeared but decorative inscriptions from Pugin’s original design have been uncovered.  Four stained glass windows by M.E. Aldrich Rope from 1924.
St. Monica’s Roman Catholic Primary School. Newer build school on a different site.
28-30 Pongees. Originally Swiss this silk merchants moved to Old Street in 1931 and to this site in 1995
32 An impression of the square’s original character can be gained from this house – the red brick front is a re-creation of a 17th house
33-34 Lincoln House. Offices and exhibition space.
36 The Rectory. This is the house for the vicar of St.Leonard, Shoreditch
37 Red Dog Saloon
39a  Shoreditch Electricity Showrooms.
Art gallery and bar. The Showrooms were opened by Shoreditch Borough Council in 1929 and sold and demonstrated all sorts of electrical items here. Local residents could sign up here for the council’s “Rental Wiring Scheme” which was launched in 1926.
48 White Cube art gallery, known for representing a number of the movement of young British artists in old industrial buildings.  Closed 2012
56 18th with later bowed shop front. In the lane
Gardens. The central garden belonged to the Hoxton Square Trustees, who leased it to Shoreditch Borough Council for £12 a year. In 1901 a granite drinking fountain was put up here by the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, given by J. Passmore-Edwards. The layout has changed very little – there are two grassed areas surrounded by paths, shrubs and mature trees. There are plane trees and seats beside the drinking fountain, and a small pavilion. The garden is maintained by the Hoxton Trust, founded in 1982 as a charity

Hoxton Street
12-18 Hoxton Street studios
41 Red Lion –pub with a roof top bar and convictions for ecstasy in the food.
46 Open Kitchen. Training kitchen run by London City Hospitality Centre
46-48 site of Castlefrank House. Workers flats erected before the Second World War
Jewish cemetery a quarter-acre ground used between 1707 & 1878 by the Hambro Synagogue of Fenchurch Street. It was officially open until 1878, although it had not been used for many years before that. The lease on the ground expired in the mid-1960s, and human remains were transferred, to West Ham Cemetery.
70 Macbeth. Brick and stucco public house painted blue. In the pediment is ‘Hoxton Distillery’ - when it was first built it was a gin distillery, using water from an underground spring.  Inside are huge tiled pictures with scenes from the play.


Kingsland Road
The Old Shoreditch Station Bar. Coffee shop and bar in the old station buildings. There is an exhibition space and pop up events.
Shoreditch Station. This was opened in 1865 Built by the North London Railway at the Junction of Old Street and Kingsland Road in their usual style. There were only three platforms, and there was nothing to serve the west side fourth line.  In 1928 the street level building was rebuilt. On 3rd October 1940 the station was bombed and closed, but the booking office remained open for another year for replacement bus services.  In the 1970s the street level building was demolished but investigators found that the inside appeared intact, even down to its ticket window. At the southern end of the station there were iron balustrades, which originated from the island platform stairway. The platforms have now been demolished for the East London Line Extension.
Signal Box. There were also traces of a brick structure on the platform in the 1960s , thought to have been the remains of the original No.1 Box here and which had been moved northwards in the 1870s.  No.2 Box. was added later opposite to it.
Railway Viaduct: in some places on the west side there are railings instead of the usual brick parapet. These are thought to have been to allow more light into adjoining buildings, when the line was widened in the 1870s
1-3 Spread Eagle Pub. A pub of this name has been on this site since at least the early 17th. It was rebuilt in the early 20th and in recent years has also been called the Penny Farthing, and been a strip club
7 Four Vintners off-licence with mushroom sculpture by Christian Nagel
19-23 The building has signage on it about ownership by a shoe factors established inn 1860. There were a number of shoe factors operating in this area in the late 19th – it is possible that this was firm called Doughty.
25-27 Basing House. Pub and nightclub.  This was previously called The Castle, and before that The Old Basing House. A pub of that name seems to have been here since at least the 18th.
41-49 stained glass studios of Goddard & Gibbs. These buildings were constructed for glass merchants supplying the furniture trade with mirrors and glass for cupboard decoration. The premises were built in the 1880s for The Eaton & Co, plate glass merchants.
48 Bells of Shoreditch. Night club names after the ‘Oranges and Lemons’ rhyme.
53 19th commercial building with the word 'GLASS' etched above the first-floor central window and the street number on the bay. This is another address for Goddard and Gibbs
74 The Printspace. This claims to have been Europe’s first walk-in DIY professional photographic printing lab which opened in 2007
Hackney Community College – parts of the campus centred on Falkirk Street. Student accommodation in Kingsland Road is built round what was Mail Coach Yard.
4 Ladbrokes. The building has a plaque ‘girls’ school rebuilt 1802’. This was the St.Leonard’s parish school. The parish charity school had opened in 1705 in Pitfield Street, funded by subscriptions from the liberties, and was for fifty boys to be trained for apprenticeships. It school later moved to a house at the end of Kingsland Road.  The girls' school opened in 1709 with the aim of preparing them for domestic service. In 1799 Kingsland Road was widened and a new school built and remained until 1889. 
Perseverance Works. Cluster of 19th industrial buildings containing a range of small business. Said to be an old match factory.

New North Road
Drinking fountain on the pavement outside St. John’s Gardens. There is a drinking fountain presented by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association set in the railings, which are shaped around it to allow access from both street and gardens.

Old Street
This was widened in 1872-7, but a few battered buildings of 18th and early 19th Remained
275 Holiday Inn Hotel.
325-329 This was Parry & Sons (Tools), Ltd., in 18th, domestic buildings. It had the Royal Warrant displayed on the first floor front and a mosaic floor inside with Parry’s sundial. It is now the Central London Sports Injury Clinic. With a giant model spine going up the front of the building and hiding the drainpipe.
333 London Apprentice. This pub is recorded from 1756, and rebuilt around 1895.  It was a well known as a landmark in the 18th and 19th and there are a number of stories, some of which may be true, about its associations with the resurrectionist trade and criminal low life generally. In the 19th it was known as somewhere where furniture trade cheques could be cashed weekly. Since the 1990s it has operated as a nightclub than a pub Having been a focal point of the Shoreditch gay scene of the 1980s, and building which held the first ever Terence Higgins Trust meeting. It has had a number of changes of name through these years and on some web sites is thought not to operate as a pub at all.
336 The Reliance Pub
380 Theatre Centre. This is the headquarters of a professional theatre company touring to children and young people. It was founded in 1953 to make theatre for high quality theatre for young audiences
Fuller’s Almshouse.  These were established under the will of John Fuller, a judge whose left money in 1592 for two almshouses, one for twelve women, in Shoreditch.  His widow bought a site on the south side of Old Street and built the almshouses before 1605. This administered by Shoreditch Parish, was rebuilt in 1787 and moved to in Wood Green in 1865. The site was used for the new Town Hall.
Shoreditch Town Hall. Built in 1866 on the site of Fuller’s Hospital as Shoreditch Vestry Hall. It is said to be an ‘evocative survival from the era of the reformed vestries’. The original vestry hall was built in 1866-7 to the east designed by Caesar A. Long; the vestry surveyor; with big vestry room at the back and a first-floor public hall for 1,200 people. In 1893 Charles Barry added offices to the west and in 1901 William G. Hunt added committee rooms for the new Metropolitan Borough of Shoreditch. A tower was added, a broken pediment and sculptures of the municipal achievements of Shoreditch - reclining figures of Light and Power and Progress. Inside an imperial stair leads to the first-floor public hall, an original feature rebuilt with a new roof in 1904 by A. G. Cross. In 1937-8 a brick built rear wing was added by the borough architect C. T. Fulcher. After the creation of the London Borough of Hackney in 1965 it was used by the Borough Heath Department and the council chamber used as a hall. It is now used as an entertainment and event venue including the ‘real gem’ the ‘untouched and distressed’ basement.
Weavers Company Almshouses stood at the junction with Kingsland road. They were funded by a William Watson for twelve widows of weavers and retired weavers and built on land leased from the parish for 200 years in 1669 rebuilt in 1826. In 1859 they were rebuilt in Wanstead together with other charitable provision by the Weavers.
Badger Almshouses, adjoined the Weavers Almshouses at the south east end of Hoxton Street. They had been founded under the terms of Allen Badger's will in 1674/5 and erected in 1698. Although intended for men they appear to have been solely used by women. Towards the end of the 19th the buildings were condemned but The Charity Commissioners, advised the Trustees to discontinue the almshouses altogether
The Refuge for the Destitute . This stood behind the Weavers and Badgers almshouses and had been founded by Rev. Edward Whitaker originally in Lambeth. The Male Refuge at Hoxton opened some time before 1819.  It was intended for the relief of destitute young people released from prison. It closed in 1849 when the government’s grant was drastically reduced.
Walters' and Porter’s Almshouses.  These were on the site of the Magistrates Court and to the east of the Weavers and Badgers. The Drapers ‘Company managed these which had been founded in 1656 under the terms of the wills of John Walter and his widow, Alice.  They were for eight almspeople, appointed through public election by the Drapers Company and Shoreditch parish. They were extended and rebuilt through the gift of Thomas Porter in 1826. Demolished 1902
Police Court and Magistrates Court built on the sites of a number of almshouses by J. D. Butler. In 1906 it had accommodation for 37 constables 1906. It is in brick above a granite base with a stone front. There is a court on both ground and first floors, approached from a central waiting area.  It closed in 1996 and was empty until part of the Occupy London movement moved-in in 2011 and it is now being reconfigured as a boutique hotel.
Rail bridge. Part of the Kingsland viaduct built as the main part of the North London City Extension of 1861. The viaduct closed in 1986 until proposals in 1993 to extend the East London Line from Shoreditch to Dalston. This opened in 2010 and the viaduct has been refurbished

Pitfield Street
This is named after Charles Pitfield, who owned a mansion in the area in the 17th. It was also once called St.John’s Street. The street still has some 19th granite setts and many buildings were joinery workshops.
8 Beershop. This was an off-licence with a large range of British bottled beers, and a selection of Belgian and German beers. The Pitfield Brewery' next door was founded in 1982 and started selling beer from the real ale revival. A five barrel brewery was installed and the first brew produced was 'Pitfield Bitter'. In 1985 another beer produced was Dark Star which in 1987 won the title of ‘Best New Beer’ came runner up in ‘The Champion Beer of Britain’ And in 1988 was awarded ’The Supreme Champion Beer of Britain.’ In 2006 the brewery closed and moved to Essex. The shop is now a Cypriot supermarket.
17-21 Early 19th front to an older building behind. 19th and 20th shop fronts.
32 The Hop Pole. 19th pub. It is has a ground floor is faced with dark green faience, ands cream tiles with raised green lettering with the pub name also saying 'TRUMAN'S ALES' and 'TRUMAN'S ALES & STOUT'. And 'TRUMAN HANBURY BUXTON & CO LTD’. The pub closed in 1985. And in 2005 was converted to flats.
45 Charlie Wright’s International Bar. This was the Queen’s Head, renamed after the landlord in 1910 and now a jazz venue
55 This was a Varieties Music Hall built by C. J. Phipps in 1870. It opened as a cinema in 1914, known as the Cinema by architects were Lovegrove and Papworth. It was taken over the Hyams Circuit and in 1928 by Gaumont British Theatres. It was closed in 1956 and sold by the Rank Organisation in 1960 and was used as meat packers, a delicatessen importer and an artists' studio. In 2004 it was hoped to open it as a community cinema but the plans were revised and the auditorium was demolished. The facade has been preserved and it is hoped to build a new 4-screen cinema.
Aske's Hospital . This was established by the Haberdashers' Company under the will of Robert Aske, 1689.   The charity acquired the Pitfield Street site, and invested the remaining money in lands in Kent. Scientist Robert Hooke designed the buildings finished in 1695. A statue of Robert Aske was set in a niche over the central doorway. It was for twenty poor freemen of the Company and a school for twenty sons of freemen.   The original buildings were demolished in 1822 and replaced by others a designed by David Riddell Roper with big four column portico on the plain brick building. In 1873 the almshouses closed and were demolished while the school expanded and extended as a National School in 1873. Shoreditch Technical Institute was housed there from 1898.
City and East London College in what were Haberdashers’ almshouses. This was taken over by the London County Council in 1898. In 1951 it became the London College of Furniture. Private luxury housing is now in these charitable premises.
Aske Gardens. The open space in front was then designated as public open space when the LCC took over. The gardens remain a public amenity, laid out with recreational facilities despite private housing in the old charity buildings. The boundary with Pitfield Street still has its 19th railings on stone coping and stone gate piers.
George and Vulture. With tall striped gable. Claims to be built in 1870 and to be the tallest pub in London.
Public Baths. These were built by Spalding & Cross, with exterior by Hare alongside the generating station in Coronet Street to use the waste heat in 1899. They were also used for boxing matches as part of the local boys club.  They were demolished in 1962 after war damage. . 
Shoreditch Library. This is a Passmore Edwards donation  Library.  It was designed in 1895-7 by H. T. Hare brick and terracotta, in a style said to be derived from Norman Shaw's New Scotland Yard. The inside was restored after Second World War damage in 1955-6 by J.L. Sharratt.  Inside is a bust of Charles Bradlaugh. It was used for a time by English National Opera for rehearsals and workshops, but is now flats upstairs and downstairs performance spaces and rehearsal studios for the Courtyard Theatre. The Courtyard has a 150 seater Main House, an 80 seat Studio Theatre, and also rehearsal space such as the White Room

Rivington Street
A winding back lane to Old Street. The buildings are mainly workshops of the 1870s and 1880s, built for furniture makers.
10-26 workshops with downstairs shop windows.
32 LCC Electricity Sub-station. Built in 1907 it received current from Greenwich Power Station to use on London County Council tramways. It was probably designed by E. Vincent Harris an LCC architect who worked on several electricity generating stations.  This station served trams running from Stamford Hill to Bethnal Green and the docks. It housed switch gear in the basement and a generator in the room above.  It is now a restaurant complete with a Damien Hurst stuffed cow in formaldehyde on display.
54 Through the arch here were the works of Thomas Cox chair and couch makers. It has since been converted into offices
55-57 this was C & R Light's finishing workshop, where furniture bought in 'in the white' could be polished and upholstered. It was built in 1897. Sunburst archway. The trade was becoming increasingly fragmented, and. though they kept a 'house style'. Light's were typical in segregating their workshops from their salerooms
62-70 cabinet makers' workshops. Standard from workshops. Part of this is now the Bedroom Bar and some the Comedy Cafe, home of British stand-up
74 This was built around 1922 for Borst Brothers, manufacturers of plywood. Now offices and arty spaces. In front are bollards with the mark “ST L S 1836”
81 Offices built in the 1930s as an extension to Shoreditch Town Hall.   Coat of Arms over the door. Now private office, art gallery etc.
91-95 workshops.
Rivington Place. Building for the dissemination of ideas in contemporary art. Sustainable architecture with use of colour and design. Adjaye Associates 2007
The railway bridge is part of the line built in 1865 connecting the North London Railway at Dalston with the new Broad Street Station.

Shoreditch High Street,
118 ½ Clerk’s House. Built in 1735 with its gable to the road and four windows to the churchyard. It was used to lodge the schoolmaster or parish clerk, and for church meetings. There was a previous house on this site, which provided accommodation for a chantry priest before the  Reformation. There was a corresponding house in the opposite corner of the churchyard, which was demolished and replaced with a watch house.      It is now a shop, previously a boutique owned by Boy George.
125-130, built c. 1878 as Edward Wells & Co.'s Commercial Ironworks, probably as showrooms.  The windows have a mosaic decoration in Islamic style.  They advertised themselves as ‘contractors to HM dockyards, Metropolitan Board of Works, Corporation of London, School Board etc’, had left there by 1895
St.Leonard's Churchyard. The area of the churchyard was extended in 1671 when adjoining land on the east was granted for use as a burial ground as a result of a donation of £100 to the parish and was further extended in 1792 and again in 1820. It was closed for burials in 1857.  It became a public garden in the late 19th and some gravestones were cleared. The 18th cast-iron railings and wrought iron gates remain as do stocks and whipping post under a thatched roof like a lychgate. A plaque on the railings says 'More Light, More Power' – the motto of Shoreditch Borough Council. The churchyard was bombed in the Second World War. Around the back of the church stood the original air raid shelter
St.Leonard’s. The original church on this site was here in 1140s when it was granted to the Priory of Holy Trinity, Aldgate. This church is the medieval parish church rebuilt in 1736-40 by George Dance Sen., after the tower of the old church had partly collapsed during a service in 1716.  It is the 3rd church on the site and it stands at a datum point from which distances were measured. It was originally built of chalk and rubble, later brick and stone’. A chantry chapel was added in 1482. The steeple has a stone cupola with a lantern and a square obelisk top. The front of the church is in Portland stone with a four-column portico. Butterfield redecorated the church in 1870 but his work has been removed. The pulpit is from 1740 with a sounding board and a staircase. There is a top quality clock and a mahogany organ case made in 1756 by Richard Bridge. There are two 18th bread cupboards and four benefactors' and two commandment boards, as well as carved royal arms of George II. The bell boards frames date from 1777 - eight bells were cast in 1739; there are now twelve. - the tower originally held five bells, according to the nursery rhyme ….: 'When I grow rich, say the bells of Shoreditch'. In 1817 it was the first church in London to be lit by gaslight.  There is a stained glass window by A.K. Nicholson Studios from 1955. And many great monuments - Elizabeth Benson 1710, by Francis Bird of an oak tree carrying an inscription on drapery driven by two skeletons pulling hard at the branches. There is a memorial from the London Shakespeare League in 1913 to Shakespeare's theatre associates, including James Burbage and many actors of his generation are buried in the church. . Also buried here was Dr James Parkinson who first described Parkinson's Disease.


Tabernacle Street
Old Fire Station. Red brick 19th fire station built by the London County Council in 1895-6. The original fire doors are still visible but the ground floor is now a restaurant and the rest of the building is offices


Waterson Street
Walbrook – possible source of the eastern arm side of the Walbrook
23-35 site of what was the largest timber mixed-use building in the UK-with 11 flats and 7 workshops. There are also public artworks throughout.

SOURCES
Barton. The Lost Rivers of London
Blue Plaque Guide, English Heritage
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide,
Clarke, Glimpses of Ancient Hackney and Stoke Newington
Clunn. London Marches On.
Clunn. The Face of London
English Heritage. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Geffrye Museum. Workshops and Warehouses.
GLIAS Newsletter
Greater London Council.  Home Sweet Home
Hackney Society. South Shoreditch.
Hackney Society. Web site
Industrial Archaeology,
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia,
London Gardens Online. Web site
London’s Industrial Archaeology
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Martin.  London Industry in the Nineteenth Century
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line
Nairn, Modern Buildings in London
National Archives, Web site
Pastscape. Web site
Robbins. The North London Railway,
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Strongroom. Web site
TBAOG, A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London
Trench & Hillman. London Under London.
Weavers Company. Web site
Wilson. London’s Industrial Archaeology