Wednesday, 29 April 2015
Riverside, north bank, east of the Tower. Wapping
Riverside along the north bank. Wapping.
The posting below covers only the south east portion of this square. The south west portion is Wapping
Post to the south Bermondsey
Post to the east Shadwell - Ratcliffe and Rotherhithe, Surrey Canal Entrance
Post to the west Tooley Street
Swan Brewhouse – after which the road is named - was owned by Edward Pickard – the company called Roberts, Pickard & Maitland in 1794. It took most of the south side of the street. In 1809 it was purchased by Combe, Delafield and Co. – and following many other changes 200 years later it is Watneys.
Sugar Refiners – In 1788 they were G.Lear, William Handasyde and Peter Thellusan who had premises consisting of a sugar house a scum house and a dwelling house. This combination of ownership points to liaisons and finance from the elite of London politics, and investment in the late 18th.
Paton and Charles, soap, candle and perfume makers. They were based in Bow Lane in 1880 when they were bought out by Gibbs. Gibbs moved to Paton and Charles Wapping premises, possibly following a fire in their City works. They subsequently became part of Unilever.
Chimney Court. This appears to be a building used by Gibbs – although address was in Wapping High Street. This may also have been the location of the School of Earth Sciences, University of Greenwich which was present in the 1980s, but is not mentioned in the official history of the University
Sedgwick & Co. rope, canvas and oakum merchants. Re. sale of workhouse oakum. Incl. Billheads 1887
Brewhouse Lane School. This was a London School Board School, possibly opened in 1874. The school was at right angles to Tower Buildings, and what appears to be a part of a school gateway seems to remain.
Tower Buildings. The earlier of two blocks built by Alderman Sydney Waterlow's Improved Industrial Dwellings Co., in 1863. This was the company's second major project by Waterlow's builder Matthew Allen from a prototype dwelling exhibited by Henry Roberts in the 1850s. The standards were better than most contemporary tenements: no shared lavatories and with better ventilation. At the corner is a plaque saying: TOWER BUILDINGS, ERECTED BY THE IMPROVED INDUSTRIAL DWELLINGS COMPANY (LIMITED) 1864.
Bridewell Place. This was a Barratt Homes development completed in 1987. It was mainly new build, but incorporated a building from the 1950s.
Ornamental canal which is a central feature of the development of the London Docks. It is a surface water reservoir as well as an amenity. It was designed by Paddy Jackson Associates in 1982-5, and excavated from the infilled dock. The original quay wall, built of yellow stock brick with a limestone band, has been kept. This stretch covers some of the east quay of the Western Dock Basin.
2 The Hurtado Jesuit Centre. A place where people from the neighbourhood can find spiritual companionship. The Centre is the home to the Jesuit Refugee Service and a branch of the London Jesuit Volunteers, The Centre’s patron is St Alberto Hurtado 1901-1952, a Jesuit priest, journalist and intellectual from Chile
15 Wapping Children’s Centre. Health centre and Wapping Community Hall.
1-16 Innes Bros Warehouse built 1860. They stored sugar here.
London Underground vent shaft and emergency exits which serve the London Overground line located beneath.
Housing built on an area of what was warehousing on the north eastern edge of Wapping Basin
This walkway is along the line of what was the East Quay Warehouses of the Western Basin of the London Dock. The line of the dock wall runs between this walk and Reardon Street
This was once called Upper Well Street
St Patrick’s Social Club. Derelict and demolished
Presbytery for St.Patrick’s Church
St. Patrick’s Boys’ Club
St Patrick Roman Catholic Primary School. This opened in 1872 and was closed in 2002
Before the construction of the workhouse in the mid 1830s, there seems to have been an area of open space to the north of this small road. A number of accounts seem to describe an area of prostitution and heavy drinking.
The foundation stone of the St.George in the East Workhouse is let into a wall here.
Willoughby House. This is part of the LCC's The Wapping housing and slum clearance scheme, of 1926. During building operations sections of Greenbank, widened by Stepney Borough Council. The blocks, are named after famous voyagers, who, sailed from Ratcliff to seek adventure on the high seas. The scheme was undertaken with the Commercial Gas Co. and each flat had prepayment meters, cookers, bracket, and a point for a gas heater in each flat. The Company installed 824 cookers, 138 heaters, 324 brackets and a number of gas coppers. Sir Hugh Willoughby was captain of a fleet of three ships, in 1553, who hoped to discover a north-eastern passage to Cathay and India. Two of the three ships reached Lapland but in 1554, Willoughby and his crews died of starvation, and a few years later their remains were found, together with Willoughby's Journal.
Chancellor House. Richard Chancellor was captain of the Bonaventure in Sir Hugh Willoughby's expedition. His ship was separated from the others and he went on alone into the White Sea, and continued travelled to the Court of Moscow. He died in a shipwreck off Aberdeen in 1556
Flinders House. Matthew Flinders was a hydrographer, navigator, and explorer born in 1774. He went as in the Reliance to New South Wales in 1795, and studied the Australian coast. He was taken prisoner by the French at Mauritius and was kept captive and died in 1814
Parry House. Sir William Edward Parry, born in 1790, made valuable charts of the northern seas and was a friend of John Franklin. He died in 1855.
Wapping Rose Gardens. This is a green space opposite Wapping New Stairs which was laid out in 1930’s and has recently been completely replanted. It features perimeter rose beds and large circular rose bed in the centre. Common Ground East has managed the Wapping Rose Gardens project are a charity formed in 2007 by residents and community organisations in Tower Hamlets.
St.Patrick’s Roman Catholic church. This was built in 1880 for the Irish immigrants who worked in the docks and made up a third of Wapping's population – hence the dedication. It was designed by F.W. Tasker, in 1877-9. Charles Willock Dawes and his wife Mary were the benefactors for the church and schools. The exterior was restored in 1987-88 by Simon Crosse and Roger Jorgenson of Feilden & Mawson. An Art Nouveau bronze plaque by Henry Price is a memorial to the deceased staff and pupils of St Patrick’s School. The Lady Chapel altar is said to come from the first London Oratory in King William Street.
Workhouse - St.Patrick’s church was built on the site of a workhouse used by St.John’s Church.
St. Patrick’s Kitchen Garden. Community vegetable garden on a piece of unused church land.
Turk’s Head. The Turk’s Head Company was established in 1992 as a charity dedicated to improving Wapping. It is in an old, originally 18th but rebuilt latterly in the 1930s as a Taylor Walker House. The name is that of a knot. It closed in the 1950s and used as a GLC Parks Dept store and then passed to Tower Hamlets Council in the 1980s. In the 1990s a local campaign raised £500,000 to buy the building and renovate it. It is an interwar Taylor Walker pub in use as a community café. A plaque on it says 'Bird Street Erected Anno v Dom 1706'
For the London Dock this square covers only the south eastern end of the Western Dock Basin and Wapping Basin. The dock began in 1800 with an Act of Parliament and a 21 year monopoly in handling tobacco, rice, wine and brandy. John Rennie was appointed engineer and Daniel Asher Alexander architect and surveyor. The first ship entered the dock in January 1805.
B shed. This was on the Eastern Quay and was used for goods to and from Italy.
East Quay. This dealt with the hides and skins trade products, including wet slated hides, known colloquially as 'Stinkers' . Men working on them had a small daily allowance.
F Warehouse. Hazardous goods were stored here. A great advantage of dock warehousing was that similar classes of goods could be kept together. Such selective storage was granted a lower rate of fire insurance
South Quay. This area specialised in ships from Holland and the smell of Dutch cheeses was rarely absent. There were also bottling stores.
Meeting House Alley
Meeting house for the Particular Baptists, founded in 1633 and who met her in 1669 in a building, restored 'as in Cromwell's time', was which shared with Independents
Hurtado Jesuit Centre – extension to their Chandler Street site
19 Cultural Education Centre for Wapping Bangladesh Association. This was the Wapping Housing Office
This was previously Princes Street
Wall – some part of the wall of the Eastern Dock of the London Dock is said to survive here
Raine’s House. Raine's Foundation School. This is now the offices of the Academy of St Martin-in-the Fields. It was built in 1719 as a charity school by Henry Raine 1679-1738, a Wapping brewer of Wapping who endowed a Charity school in 1719 for 50 boys and 50 girls in Farthing Fields. There are niches for figures of charity school children. One wing was the schoolmaster's house; the other was built in 1985 by the GLC. The school later moved to Stepney and is now in Bethnal Green.
Raine’s Asylum. This was a boarding school for girls built 1736, which has gone. The school was forced to sell it cheaply to the London Dock Company.
Raines Mansions – small park on the site of a previous block of flats
Raine's Lodge. Built post-1883 and heavily altered in 1996-7 by Borough of Tower Hamlets as flats for the elderly.
St George in the East Workhouse. The parish had a workhouse situated between Prusom Street and Princes Street dating from at least 1824. It stood south of Raine’s school. In 1836 the parish’s operation was overseen by an elected Board of Guardians. The former workhouse continued in use. There was an infirmary at the south-east corner of the site. Premises on the west side of Prince's Street housed the receiving wards, workshops, and dispensary. In 1925, St George in the East joined the Stepney Poor Law Union and after being taken over the London County Council in 1930, the workhouse became St George in the East Hospital.
St George in the East Hospital. In 1871, an infirmary was added to the workhouse and in 1893 a Nurse Training School was established there. During the Great War patients were transferred to the here from Bethnal Green Hospital. In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS under the Stepney Group Hospital Management Committee, part of the North East Metropolitan Regional Hospital Board. It closed in September 1956, when it had 280 beds, and was used temporarily as a shelter for Hungarian refugees following the Hungarian uprising. The Hospital building was demolished in 1963 and the site redeveloped for housing in the area.
What was Reardon Street in 1914 is now divided by Wapping Gardens into Reardon Street to the north and Reardon Path to the South. At the northern end there is now a right angled turn and the road continued along what was the wall of the warehouse around the Western Dock Basin. There have been many name changes. In the early 18th the northern section was Broad Street and the southern, as far as Green Bank was Anchor and Hope Alley. In the 1890s Reardon Street was Red Lion Street
Vancouver House. This is part of the LCC's The Wapping housing and slum clearance scheme, of 1926 undertaken with the Commercial Gas Co. The blocks, are named after famous voyagers, who, sailed from Ratcliff to seek adventure on the high seas. George Vancouver, born 1758, accompanied Captain Cook. In 1791-92, he explored the north-west coast of America, including the island named after him.
St Peter's Centre. This was Reardon Street School built in 1872 by the brother of the incumbent and a pupil of Butterfield. It has a central bellcote with wrought-iron by Richardson, Slade & Co. and figure of the Good Shepherd by Thomas Farmer. Converted into a community and neighbourhood centre in 1990 by Architype for the LDDC
Red Lion Street School. This dated from before 1821. From 1894 it was St Patrick's Roman Catholic School.
St.George in the East Casual Ward. This was east of the road and north of Green Bank
Blue plaque to Captain William Bligh who lived here from about 1785. He set sail in the Bounty in 1787 to transplant breadfruit trees from Tahiti to the West Indies. He met Fletcher Christian in Wapping the man who set him adrift in the famous mutiny.
This was previously the southern end of Reardon Street, Earlier called Red Lion Street.
Was previously called Church Street.
St.John Wapping. This was a Chapel of Ease dedicated to John the Baptist in 1616. By 1694 Wapping St John was a parish in its own right and the church was rebuilt in 1760 as St John the Evangelist by Joel Johnson, a carpenter. George III’s doctor was rector. It was Bombed in the Second World War and fragmentary rectangular shell survived the War. The tower was restored in 1964 by the London County Council. It was converted to flats in the 1990s and the church is now a small chapel at the back of the tower.
Churchyard. Hemmed in by the old dock wall it was made into a public park in 1951. There is an 18th gateway.
CSt John’s Old School. The school was founded in 1695 and rebuilt, together with the church, after 1756. The central bay has Coade stone figures of a boy and a girl with below each "Founded A.D. 1695" and beneath that "Erected by subscription A.D. 1760 supported by voluntary contributions". A first-floor room is now lined with the panelling salvaged from the rest of the building. When it was restored by Dransfield Design in 1994-5, as two houses. Though both the architecture and the costumes suggest a rather later date.
John Orwell Sports Centre. This was Wapping Basin, the entrance basin to the London Dock in 1980 undertaken by Shepheard Epstein & Hunter -80 for Tower Hamlets Borough Council. The entrance is a doorway in a stretch of the dock wall. Inside is an activities hall converted from a machine-tool workshop, which hugged the curve of the dock wall at the edge of the dock entrance basin. The basin itself was infilled for sports pitches. Round the hall is a covered walkway carried on salvaged cast-iron stanchions.
Wapping Basin. This was the entrance area of the London Dock – in effect the Western Dock Basin built in 1806. It was entered by a lock from the river leading to the half oval shaped basin and ships exited to the Western Dock via another lock. Both locks were crossed by swing bridges. It was filled in 1980-82.
Walls – the road is lined along the side by remains of the East wall of the London Dock. The basin was filled in 1968-70
Wapping Gardens. Formerly known as Wapping Recreation Ground, this was one of the earliest applications under the provisions of the 'Artisans, and Labourers' Dwellings Improvement Act' of 1875. The gardens were formed on the site of slum clearance in 1886 and were laid by the Metropolitan Board of Works. They were opened to the public on 8th June 1891. Wapping Gardens today have a fountain and playground, with perimeter planting of shrubs and a number of fine plane trees.
Wapping Youth Centre. This was Wapping Fire Station until 1947. A plaque says: "This station was opened on the 21st day of December 1905 by Lewen Sharp Esq Chairman of the Fire Brigade Committee of the London County Council”
Wapping High Street.
The road was built around 1570 to link the legal quays in the City to new storage warehouses downstream. It was a single track road, which got its name from the many sailors' houses, brothels and taverns that lined the route.
Wapping Pier Head. These buildings surround the site of the original entrance to the London Docks which closed in 1956.
Wapping Entrance Lock. Built 1805 in grit stone ashlar, this was the original ship entrance to the London Dock. The lock was 40 feet wide and 23 feet deep and too small for modern ocean going vessels. It is still partly visible although infilled and made into a garden in the 1960s. Cobblestones set in the garden on the left match the arc of the dock entrance gates which had been damaged by barges. It was only 40 ft wide.
Dock Officials' Houses of 1811-13 in two terraces designed by Daniel Asher Alexander. One terrace is four stories because it was rebuilt as offices after the Blitz. They are built n such a way as to suggest a gateway to the river. All the houses of the west terrace were renovated as a single block of flats by a developer in 1971. The lower terraces north of Wapping High Street are reconstructions from 1981 by Tower Hamlets. They face each other across the infilled lock, now a featureless sunken garden.
Dock wall – remains of stalactite gate piers of the type used by Alexander throughout the dock. There is a modern continuation across the infilled lock
Wapping Old Stairs. Stairs to the foreshore, known as ‘old’ three hundred years ago. Double staircase in good condition, if slippery.
62 Town of Ramsgate. So named because it is said Ramsgate fishermen landed their catch there. It is on the site of a 17th name in 1688 . In 1750 there were 36 pubs in the street but this is the only survivor. It claims to have been where "Hanging Judge Jeffries" was caught in 1688 by an infuriated mob whilst trying to escape to France. It is also said that, convicts were chained up in the cellars of the pub before being transported to Australia. It is also said that it was once called the Red Cow – however the address of the Red Cow is supposed to have been Anchor and Hope Lane, which is some distance away,
64 Oliver’s Wharf. Beside the Town of Ramsgate. This was designed as a tea warehouse in 1869-70 by F. & H. Franm. It was the first warehouse in Wapping to be converted into flats by Goddard Manton in 1970-2. The red brick Victorian riverside building was built in 1870 in Gothic style for a merchant George Oliver’s Wharf. It handled general cargo and tea. In the 1930s it was occupied by P.R.Buchanan and Co. wharfingers.
75 Gun Tavern. The pub was present in 1911
61 Orient Wharf. A plain building by Shepheard Epstein & Hunter, 1987-9, for the Toynbee Housing Association. The wharf here was a bonded warehouse for tea with an overhead conveyor to the building on the other side of the High Street
72-76 Gun Wharves. Litchfield and Soundy. Wharfingers
78 Dundee Court. This is a warehouse of the 1870s, converted to offices and flats. A wrought-iron lattice-trussed gangway spanned the street going to the smaller, warehouses on the riverside.
79 The Sanctuary. Incorporates the remains of a granary of 1880 with white brick window heads and a new crane in welded steel.
St. Johns Upper Wharf. Built in 1873 and called Jack’s Hole. Owned by St. Thomas’s hospital. Handled general goods.
Gun Dock. A dry dock first recorded in 1684, which survived until 1889. In 1791 Boulton & Watt supplied a beam engine, with sun and planet gear and a cylinder of 16-inch diameter by 4-foot stroke, to Sawyer Spence for his lead rolling mill here. He described his occupation as a plumber.
80 St.Johns Wharves. Riverside wharves originally built in 1830. In 1934 they were occupied by R G Hall & Co and were used for the storage of general dry goods such as coffee, cocoa, sugar, dried and canned fruit, gums and cheese. Oddbins moved into the wharves in 1976 for their offices with the warehouse on the other side of Wapping Lane being used as their wine warehouse. The riverside building is used as offices.
80 Lower Oliver’s Wharf
82 Morocco Sufferance Wharf. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.
84 Eagle Sufferance Wharf. In 1936 occupied by H. Muller handling green and dried fruit. There was an overhead conveyor across Wapping High Street. Royal Mail Steam Packet Co
River Police boatyard. This is the police launch maintenance works built 1973 by the Metropolitan Police Chief Architect. The building is clad in moulded glass reinforced plastic white panels, in a sculptural relief. It is a single storey depot and workshop the building with a special lift to raise boats into the workshop at all water levels. There is also a small museum
86 Eagle and Baltic wharves occupied by Taylor. Both wharfage with general cargo. Could only be accessed by lighters. Baltic wharf was destroyed in the Second World War
Wapping New Stairs. Reasonable condition, gate difficult to open, iron ladder at bottom
Waterside Gardens. These stand on both sides of the High Street transformed from a derelict site by Cooper Macfarlane for the LDDC, 1989 with a bandstand, reusing some cruciform cast-iron columns salvaged from Hardwick's St Katharine Docks warehouses of 1828
81 In 1911 this was the Rose & Crown
87 Black Boy this was a pub present in 1911
86 Gun Place. Tea and spice warehouse opposite Gun Wharves, converted into flats and penthouses.
92 In 1911 this was the Watermans Arms
93 Alfred Alexander, bottle manufacturers. Alexander was in various bottle making enterprises in Yorkshire, Durham and London – this may be the Yorkshire Bottle Co. for which he was agent. He, or his associates, were later involved in setting up United Glass
94-6 Old Aberdeen Wharf, built in 1843-4 as Sun Wharf for the Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co., converted into housing 1998-9. In the 1930s this was also used by Taylor Bros.
98-100 Wapping Police Station. The Marine Police were formed here in 1798 as the world's first regular police force. They were founded by Patrick R Colquhoun and John Harriot here as the Marine Police Establishment, and funded by the Committee of West India merchants to reduce theft from their ships and wharves. They patrolled the river in rowing boats to guard merchant ships against theft. Designed by John Dixon Butler, Metropolitan Police architect, 1907-10 in brick and stone. There are flats for officers along the street.
St.John’s Wharf. Adjacent to Wapping Police Station, is a warehouse conversion. The 19th wharf, was used for storage of coffee, dried fruit and gum. For a period it was used for Australian wool sales. Thought to have been designed by Sidney Smirke
Sun Hole. This stretch of river frontage by St.John’s Wharf was occupied by the Alexander Tug Company and was used for the storage of supplies and maintenance of their Sun Tug fleet.
Garden. This was the graveyard to the parish church of St John’s.
103 White Swan. This pub was present in 1911
108 Captain Kidd Pub. Former workshop converted into pub in 1988-9 by Goddard Manton Partnership and adjoining St. John's Wharf
110 pair of early 18th houses each of three storeys and three bays. These, were probably chandlers' shops, are representative of riverside buildings before the spread of warehouses. Re-creation of shop fronts by Russell & Wright c. 1988
112 Phoenix Wharf. A small warehouse which was once a flour mill. Built 1840 by Sydney Smirke. Converted to flats 1996.
116 Swan Wharf
King Henry’s Stairs. These used to lead to the old Tunnel Pier which was demolished about 1961. They were also called Execution Dock Stairs in the 18th. Lamp standard.
Tunnel Pier. Named after the Thames Tunnel which is down river.
Execution Dock between Wapping New Stairs and King Edward’s Stairs. Where pirates were hanged, presumably as a warning to others. The infamous Captain Kidd was hanged here in 1701 (a gamekeeper turned poacher, he had been sent out to Madagascar by the Government to capture pirates, but instead became a pirate himself). For maximum deterrent effect, the sentence was usually carried out at low tide and three high tides were allowed to wash over the corpse before it was cut down and buried
Tower Buildings. The vacant site was where Tower Buildings stood. This was a charitable block of housing some of which remain in Brewhouse Lane.
118-120 King Henry’s Wharf. This group of warehouses was owned by the Alexander Tug Company but operated by Hall Wharfage. The wharf was used for handling and storage of sugar and bonded facilities. The name of this wharf recall the alleged Tudor cannon foundry which Henry VIII set up here to make guns for his ships.
121 Carronade is a small residential building at the comer of Wapping High Street and Wapping Lane. The apartments are approached via an atrium entrance hall with an open curved area. There is a full size replica of a Carronade Naval Gun c1805 as a centre piece.
122 Gun House is a new development of flats adjacent to Gun Wharves
122 Gibbs Wharf. Gibbs, soap and toothpaste makers.
123 The Bull. This was a pub present in 1911
124-130 Gun Wharf. These were tea and spice warehouses converted to flats by Barratt East London before 1987. They date from around 1920 but the style is still of the 19th but with artificial-stone dressings and reinforced-concrete floors. E, F, G and H Warehouses, which line Wapping High Street and turn the corner into Wapping Lane, were built in the 1930s.
Originally called Old Gravel Lane – as a dry road crossing Wapping Marsh. The first Anglo-Saxon residents probably built their settlement here on the gravel above the marsh and the name Wapping probably derived from a chieftain, Waeppa.
105 Corbett's Wharf (now Gulliver's Wharf), early 19th three storeys with cellars and loading doors
97 White Swan and Cuckoo. Truman pub, was just the White Swan
78-80 with a bowed corner to Brewhouse Lane, a small 19th warehouse, converted to a restaurant in 1984.
Wapping Health Centre
Jackman House This is part of the LCC Wapping housing estate slum clearance scheme, of 1926. The blocks, are named after famous voyagers, who, sailed from Ratcliff. Charles Jackman was part of three voyages with Stephen Burrough and Arthur Pet, to carry out an examination of the straits which lead into the Kara Sea in the North East of Russia.
Welsh House. Another house in the LCC Wapping estate. James Welsh was master of the Richard of Arundel, who in 1588-91 went to o the river of Beam in West Africa.
St.Peter’s London Docks. This replaced a tin mission from St George- in the -East under the Society of the Holy Cross in Watts Street. It was begun 1865-6 by F.H. Pownall for Father Charles Lowder. This was the first such mission to the poor in the East End and famous for its advanced ceremonial which led to riots. The church designed 1884-94 by Maurice B. Adams, was not completed until 1939. The building was damaged by bombing in 1940 reconstructed in 1948-50. The east window was one of the early works of Burne-Jones.
St Peter's Clergy House. A blue plaque reads: 'Lincoln Stanhope Wainwright (1847-1929), vicar of St Peter's London Docks, lived here 1884-1929'.
Housing. Where the wall of the London Dock is left standing .
Frobisher House This is part of the LCC's Wapping housing and slum clearance scheme, of 1926. Sir Martin Frobisher made his first voyages in 1554 fighting against the Spanish Armada. In 1594 he took part in the expedition for the relief of Brest and Crozon
Franklin House. Sir John Franklin, the Arctic explorer, set out to discover a north-west passage to the Pacific in 1845. No traces of the party were found until 1851 but he showed the existence of the North-West Passage
Fenner House. Captain Thomas Fenner, served as Vice-Admiral to Sir Francis Drake in the fleet of 1588 against the famous Armada.
Beechey House. Frederick William Beechey was with Franklin in the North Polar Expedition of 1818 and with Parry in 1819. Beechey Island, in Barrow Strait, is named after him.
14 Turner's Old Star Pub. Named because it is thought that the painter William Turner once bought it and gave it to Sophia Booth. Turner was known to have owned the Ship and Bladebone in New Gravel Lane.
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Posted by M at 10:15