Sunday, 8 July 2012

River Lea -Leyton

Dagenham Brook, River Lea and Phillibrook
The River Lea briefly loops through the area. The Dagenham Brook passes through the area northwest/south east and the Phillibrook flows south west

Post to the west Hackney Marshes
Post to the east Leyton
Post to the south Temple Mills
Post to the north Leyton

Auckland Road
Isolation hospital in iron hut on the sewage works. In 1889 the local board had housed infectious cases on a temporary basis in Ruckholt Farm House. In 1891 they were moved to cottages at the sewage works. In 1896 an iron hospital with 48 beds was built there and remained until 1939.
Leyton sewage works. This was built under pressure from the Court of Chancery when in 1878 the West Ham board secured an order to prevent Leyton from using the Wanstead ditch to dispose of sewage.  In 1883 works opened here to dispose of the sewage by chemical precipitation tanks. It was soon in financial difficulties and abandoned by the operators with two days' notice. They were then run directly by the board's surveyor who initiated a number of innovative schemes – first of all by separating surface, and storm, water from the foul sewers. In 1896 the Board installed an 8 cell destructor to deal with the accumulation of residual sludge and this also burned household refuse with a by-product of saleable clinker and ash.  Steam was thus produced in a pair of Babcock and Wilcox tubular boilers, which was used to power machinery on the works. The success of this system gave Leyton a high reputation as a pioneer of sanitary improvement.  From 1909 pressed sludge was sold as manure. Leyton was unable to get into the London main drainage system but in 1927, the sewers were connected to the London County Council system at Hackney. Thenceforth, the Leyton tanks were used for storage of storm water only. In 1962–3 Leyton changed to a bulk disposal of refuse by tipping outside the borough although the destructor continued to consume unsuitable material.  The works was finally abandoned leaving one impressive red brick chimney with a plaque on it listing out the work achieved on the site and the vestry members involved.  This too has now, sadly, gone – and Edith can find no mention of it on the net, let alone a picture.  This is now a waste disposal site run by a private operator.

Brisbane Road
Leyton Orient Football Club Matchroom Stadium. The club began as Clapton Orient in 1881 and moved to Leyton in 1936 having been at a site in Millfields, Clapton. . Before then it had been used by Leyton Football Club which moved to the Hare and Hounds ground. The ground is also used by a reserve team of the Tottenham Club. After the Second World War the ground was improved with levelling and barrier installation. In 1956 a stand was installed from Mitcham Stadium. In 1996 an area became a car park. The main stand is called West Stand which also has offices, shop and ticket office – as well as a posh area for the directors. Players' changing rooms are below. The East Stand is older and contains another area for posh people called Wyvern Suite. The North Stand dates from 2007. The Tommy Johnston Stand dates from 1999 and is in the south.  A block of flats backs on to it

Church Road
St. Mary’s church.  St Mary with St Edward and St Luke. This is the old parish church of what was once a much larger area.  There has been a church here since at least 1130 and it may have a Saxon foundation, John Strype, the antiquarian, was rector in the early 18th. The oldest surviving part is the red brick tower built 1658, with an 18th clock cupola brought from Leyton Great House in 1806. There are old bells. Parts may date from 1794, parts from 1822 and further restoration in 1929-32. Following a fire in 1995 a crèche was formed at the end by Kay Pilsbury, Architects, who also created a chapel under the tower, and remodelled the entrance. There are many monuments and artefacts including a 15th font, an hourglass from 1693 and a carved poor box from 1826.
Churchyard.    This is now a nature reserve with scattered trees, shrubs and tall herbs. There are weighty tombs from the time when Leyton was a retreat for City men and there us a row of chest tombs along the main path. There was also the tomb of Samuel Bosanquet by Sir John Soane. 
Parish Hall – this is used by a karate club, an Asian Disability Group and a Thursday dancing club
90 Oliver Twist Pub. Closed in 2005.  The windows have etchings of Dickens’ characters conversion to flats.
Almshouses. John Smith’s Almshouses built 1656 and rebuilt 1885 by Richard Creed. They have knapped flint work and early Crittall windows.
Leyton Fire Station, Built in 1992 by Rock Townsend. It is in yellow brick with a drill tower behind
180 Etloe House.  It is thought this was the site of a moated house called ‘Godsalves’. The current house was built on the site of the bowling green in 1760 by Edward Mores antiquary and printer.   It has a 19th stucco-Gothic front. It was the home of William Bowyer friend of Dr Johnson and proprietor of The Gentleman's Magazine and from 1856 the country retreat of Cardinal Wiseman.  It then became the St Agnes School and Orphanage until 1864 and its chapel was used as the local catholic church.  Converted to flats and now surrounded by two- storey terraces. Lotus sculpture in the front garden
Elektron Works. Copeland and Jenkins Ltd. The Company was set up in 1933 to process mica for use in the electrical and electronics industries. The company made its own tools and dies with factories in London and Wellingborough.
14-16 houses remaining from the British Land Company development of the Leyton Grange Estate. Original cast iron fencing survives
Leyton Grange. The Grange dates from Domesday and was an outlying farm from the Abbey at Stratford Langthorne. A house stood on the north side of Church Road at the point which is now the junction with Grange Park Road. It is thought to have been demolished in the late 1640s although a gatehouse remained for a while. A new house was built in the early 18th by David Gansel which was home in the 19th to members of the Rhodes, developers and builders, family and later to the Charringtons, brewers, the estate was sold to the British Land Company for development in 1860

Coronation Gardens
Coronation Gardens. The land, which had been the site of a pit, and also watercress beds was purchased for the gardens in 1902, which was the year of the coronation of King Edward VII; but the park was not opened until 1905 and was laid out as a copy of a park in East Ham. It was extended to Oliver Road in 1913.
Bandstand. Restored in 1999
Fountain stamped ‘A. Durenne’ built in 2000 is a replica of one originally put up in the 1920s.   The one in the 1920s was a war memorial paid for by Alexanders, a local printing company
Pillar from the old General Post Office in London
Hedge maze

Etloe Road
Caribonum Factory.  Set up in the 1900s as an offshoot of Lamson Paragon and by 1930 selling Typewriter Ribbons and Carbon Papers and other similar sundries with aggressive American sales methods. They began in Church lane and a later factory was built by Wallis Gilbert in 1918 incorporating innovative production areas and Egyptian type styling. It was demolished in 1980.

Grange Park Road
The road follows the line of what was the drive to Leyton Grange house
St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church opened in 1924 but not consecrated until 1930. It was built as a memorial to the Great War by Ernest Bower Norris of Sandy & Norris and replaced a temporary church of 1904. It is a brick building with an interior in a 'Byzantine' style but much of the original furnishing have been changed
41 house built in the grounds of Leyton Grange in the 1880s
49 Redemption Church. This building was Grange Park Hall, apparently part of a grammar school, with a short life. In the early 20th it was used as a cinema and later a working men’s club.
Grange Park United Reformed Church. This was founded as a congregational church in 1870 by Morgan Lloyd. A site was bought and the church opened in 1874 and within three years was independent as Leyton Congregational church. A hall was built in 1878. However differences developed and the church became 'greatly disorganised'. An iron school was built in 1894, the church enlarged in 1896, and new Sunday-school buildings opened in 1927.

High Road
The old village centre lay near the junction with Grange Park Road.
John Strype Court. These flats are on the site of the old vicarage where John Strype lived – he was a reforming 17th vicar, and historian. The old Vicarage itself was demolished in 1957 for the flats.
452 Grove House.  Built on the site of Cross House before 1806. It is a three-storey brick house. By the 1960 it was the Leyton and District Trades Hall and Institute who used it as a club.  It has recently been extended with housing association flats and a new club room
Cross House. This house was also called Bushes and was there in the mid 16th.  It was part of the estate of the Leyton Great House. It was sold to a builder called Jesse Jackson in 1878.
471 Lido Cinema in 1910. This later became the Leyton and Leytonstone Club and Institute, and following that a shirt factory,
475 Lion and Key Corner Pub. In process of being turned into sheltered housing. The first documentary evidence of this pub is a possible record of 1579 but it is thought to be much older. It has been speculated, from the name, that it was something to do with pilgrims – with the Key being to do with St.Peter.  In its last years it was called The House Bar and was a music venue.
Grange Park House
Phillibrook farm
Co-op. Built 1909 for Stratford Co-operative Society probably by W.H. Cockcroft. With beehive motifs on the gable. The Stratford and Edmonton Societies merged in 1920 to become the London Co-operative Society

Inskip Close
Thomas Inskip was a previous vicar of Leyton

Ive Farm Lane
Ive Farm House – this was a two-storeyed brick house, probably late in the 17. It survived into the 1940s
Sports ground. With running track, underused
Afro-Caribbean Centre. Demolished

Leyton Grange
This was the area of the estate around Leyton Grange House. Roman remains have been found here including, bricks, and tiles
Housing estate complex, comprising one tower block and ten 4-storey courts. Said to be one of the most deprived estates in Britain,
Slade Tower. The first tower block in the area and built by the local authority in 1961. Eleven stories. There are a series of other lower blocks.

Marsh Lane
The lane ends in the Lammas Lands by the Lea, preserved as open space as a result of a local campaign in 1892
Marsh Lane Fields. The Settlement of St. Mary Eton derived from a vision of the Virgin Mary at Eton College and she ordered the College to establish a Settlement in Hackney for poor children in the area.  One result was the setting up of what became the Eton Manor Athletics Club. The Settlement acquired some in Leyton.  Most of Leyton’s former Lammas Lands are within the Lea Valley Regional Park.
Eton Manor Cottage with plaque about the campaign on the Lammas Lands in 1892. Notice fixed to the front of "The Cottage" which is at the end of Marsh Lane. The notice states:  In commemoration of Lammas Day 1892 when the people of Leyton led by C.G.Musgrave, H. Humphreys and E.C.Pittam asserted the commoners rights and successfully resisted the attempted encroachment upon these lands
Ice House. This was originally in the grounds of Etloe House and is now in the area covered by, St Joseph's School. It is 18th or 19th with a domed brick chamber and tunnel and the entrance set in a stone wall.

Oliver Road
Dip in the road which marks the course of the Phillebrook and where there was once a ford.
Housing in the northern part of the road was developed originally by the British Land Company from 1860
The Score Complex. Community facility stemming from the football club, offering and coordinating sports facilities throughout the area.
Lea Mills mosaic. One of two large circular mosaics in Oliver Road at the junction with Walnut Road. This commemorates the mills in the Lea valley which are thought to have been here from the 11th to the 19th centuries. Round the circumference are goods produced here. The one exception is the football, seen here caught between two fishes, which arrived there in the 21st century
75 Oliver Road Polyclinic. Within the curtilage of the football club building
Leyton Orient Football Club – entrances and turnstiles to the ground as part of their building. There is a plaque about the history of the club alongside the ticket office.
Leyton Orient Supporters Club, on the west stands on the Oliver road side of the ground.
Oliver Road allotments. Trading shed in portacabins
Grant Barnett umbrella factory moved here in 1939 from Walthamstow and was compulsorily purchased by the local authority in 1968,

Orient Way
Road built in the early 21st on part of Temple Mills Marshalling Yard. The name obviously relates to the nearby football club

Rosedene terrace
This was once part of Goldsmith Road
Preserves factory in the 1950s
21 Cleaning factory in the 1970s
25-27 part of the British Land Company development of the 1860s

Ruckholt Close
Allotments

Ruckholt Road
Site of Ruckholt Farm
Isolation hospital. Before 1889 the local board sent infectious cases to Plaistow or to London hospitals. When the London hospitals refused to accept any more, a temporary arrangement was made in Ruckholt farm-house until 1891.
St Eleftherios Greek Orthodox Church. This was previously St. Luke’s church. This had begun in 1901 when an iron mission was opened. In 1914 the permanent church was built in grey terracotta to the design of E. D. Hoyland. The church was bombed in the Second World War, but was subsequently restored.

Temple Mills Sidings
Temple Mill marshalling yard. This is the northern end of the Temple Mills complex. Temple Mills yard’s construction had been formally approved in 1954 as part of the British Transport Commission’s Modernisation Plan of 1955. It included a traction maintenance depot but by the 1960e containerisation of freight made hump sorting of trucks, redundant. The yards, capable of handling 4,000 wagons a day, were only dealing with 250 by 1982. Nib 1996 it was taken over by ’London & Continental Railways’’ as a depot for the Channel tunnel rail link. Construction of a new depot for Eurostar was agreed in 2004.  It was opened in 2007 by the then Transport Secretary, Tom Harris MP. It is called ‘’Eurostar Engineering Centre’’, and has been built with UIC European Loading Gauge to accommodate future passenger rolling stock. The very large main building is rectangular clad with grey sheeting, and is northeast of the Tottenham Hale to Stratford line. Eight tracks enter the depot structure the south east. It is electrified with overhead wires, which extend into the depot building over all eight tracks. At the depot's north west end is a building housing heavy repair gear. On the tracks is an automatic train washer, which trains can pass through when arriving or leaving the site.
Temple Mills Wagon works. This closed in 1983. It had belonged to the great eastern railway company where about 500 wagons could be repaired and ten new built a week. The works helped in the development of new rolling stock for freight containers – Freightliner - and cars for the Channel Tunnel.

Thornhill Road
Land north of this was part of the Grange Park Estate built in 1860s by British Land Co.
48 original house on the Grange Park Estate built by the British Land Company on the 1860s
64 garden with many unusual plants and a romantic character early in the season,
Thornhill Gardens. Flats built in 1955 by the local authority on Second World War bomb sites.

Villiers Road
Housing built in 1959, on the site of the council's old works depot at Ive farm to rehouse Crescent Road families,

Sources
Booklet on Leyton Sewage Works
Chapman, Great Houses of Walthamstow.  Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Dead pubs web site
Exploring East London web site
Graces Guide web site
Islingtongue blog site
Kent Rail web site
London Encyclopaedia
Nairn. Nairn’s London
Pevsner, Essex
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Victoria County History Essex
Walford. Village London
Wikipedia page on Leyton Orient Football Club

2 comments:

cherrythatcher said...

My Great grandfather was the resident engineer at the Auckland Rd sewage works. He was William John Glen. He and his family lived in the managers house. His son William was a steam engineer at the works too.

orion vaughan said...

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River Construction